Smooth planes are an indispensable condition for high-quality repairs, in apartments it is very often necessary to level the walls, since ideal geometry is rare even for new buildings, and in old houses this problem is even more urgent. The process is not easy, but with patience and adhering to the necessary requirements, all work can be done on its own.

Small irregularities and minor defects are easy to hide under wallpaper, decorative plaster. In more complex cases, the alignment of the walls is carried out by one of the main methods - by applying a plaster mixture or plasterboard lining. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

The use of building mixtures

If the walls of the apartment are relatively even and have a slight degree of curvature, many owners often prefer the use of leveling solutions.

This alignment method has been known for a long time, and it has a number of positive aspects:

  • in the process of plastering, the internal volume of the room practically does not change;
  • perfect for any premises (for various purposes and operating conditions);
  • tiles, wallpaper, painting, and other finishing coatings hold well on the prepared base;
  • it is not necessary to process the entire surface, partial alignment of problem areas is allowed;
  • all work, using an affordable construction tool, can be done by yourself.

To reduce the thickness of the applied layer, at the preparatory stage, all cracks and recesses are pre-filled with quick-drying mixtures, and the protrusions are knocked down with a perforator.

The disadvantages include the following points:

  • the plaster mixture is suitable for leveling minor differences, an increase in the thickness of the layer leads to an increase in material consumption, financial and time costs;
  • special skills are needed, in their absence it is very difficult to immediately get the desired result;
  • so that the applied solution dries well before finishing, depending on the thickness of the layer, it is left for 2-3 or more days.

Basic preparatory work

If the wall is concrete, then the simplest, most affordable and common method is to use a cement-sand mortar. The technology is simple, therefore, in the absence of experience, it is possible to acquire and improve the necessary skills in the process of work.

To carry out the plastering correctly, follow the step-by-step instructions:

  • The surface is cleaned of the previous finish, for which old wallpaper and areas of poorly fixed plaster are removed, and the protrusions are knocked down.
  • Turn off the power and disassemble the sockets. If necessary, they are replaced, and the wires are laid in strobes.
  • Remove all fasteners (screws, nails, hooks).
  • Existing deep cracks are expanded and filled with cement mortar.
  • Having prepared the base, it is cleaned of dirt and dust.

The next step is priming. For better adhesion of the applied mixture to the surface, it is recommended to use a deep penetration composition with antiseptic properties. Onatstrengthens the base, improves adhesionand prevent the appearance of mold, the development of fungus.

On open flat areas, the primer is applied with a roller in a continuous layer, but in the corners it is more convenient to use a brush. After the first layer, after a pause necessary for it to dry, re-processing is carried out.

Before plastering the walls, beacons must be set up. For these purposes, metal profiles with a T-section or ordinary wooden slats are well suited. They are pressed into the "cakes" of cement, gypsum mortar previously thrown on the base and, until it has seized, they are quickly leveled.

An arbitrary distance is chosen between the beacons, but for the convenience of working at the corners of the room, at least 30 cm recede.

The main thing is that the rule along the edges rests on adjacent profiles and moves freely in the vertical direction.

Starting plastering, you can take the dry mix in the package and, diluted with water, prepare in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Or, using the most common materials - cement and sand, mix it yourself. Further, taking a trowel or spatula, the finished composition is applied to a pre-moistened wall so that the layer protrudes 2–3 mm above the level of the beacons.

Then, on them, trying to smooth the surface, they draw a rule from the bottom up. In places where small indentations remain, add a solution and re-align. If necessary, another layer is applied, leveling it in a circular motion, and the wall is left to dry. At the final stage, putty is used as a finish.

Working in separate rooms, you have to pay attention to the specifics of their purpose and features of operation. So, the bathroom is a relatively small room, so there are no particular difficulties, but given the high humidity and intensity of use, the question is natural - what material to choose?

Best of all, according to its characteristics, a cement-sand or gypsum leveling mixture is suitable; after hardening, their structure acquires the necessary properties that increase resistance to moisture. You can also install waterproof drywall, but the room is small and the frame will take up some space. At the end of all the work, the walls can be painted, but the best option is to glue ceramic tiles, as they will create additional protection and ennoble the appearance.

Internal and external corners

There are several ways to align the corners, but the easiest and most effective way is with the help of perforated profiles. When eliminating the irregularities of the inner corner with your own hands, it is necessary to perform a number of sequential works:

  • over the entire height in the most even places, through an equal interval of 150–250 mm, apply a quick-hardening mixture;
  • pressing an angular metal profile into it (inner shelves outward), check its position relative to the level;
  • leave until completely hardened;
  • further, starting from the flat sides of the corner, begin the main finishing work.

The outer protrusion is performed in a similar way, but the perforated corner is applied in reverse. After making the final alignment of the side surfaces and waiting for the complete hardening, drying of the material, they begin to grind it. To do this, take a grater or sandpaper, fixing it in a special holder, and, exercising light pressure, pass over the entire surface in a circular motion.

The number of layers applied and the choice of material, starting or finishing, depends on how curved the walls are.

Upon completion of work, in order to remove adhering plaster from the tool, it is placed for a while in a container of water or a small spatula is used. If painting is planned as a final finish or wallpaper will be glued, then a primer is applied to the walls for better adhesion of materials.

Visual alignment method

Very often it is not required to completely plaster all surfaces, sometimes it is enough to identify and eliminate problem areas in the form of protrusions and depressions “by eye”. This method is very efficient and allows you to achieve significant savings in time and materials.

The main attention is paid to such significant places as corners, doorways, ceiling and wall joints. The remaining planes are aligned using the rule, pressing it and simultaneously moving it along the surface, the presence of depressions is determined. After filling them with plaster, the excess is removed with a tool, re-wiring them to the walls. The application of the solution is carried out in several layers, each of which must be dried and covered with a primer on top.

Actions continue until the plane is flat and the rule is completely attached in the absence of recesses. After plastering, finishing putty is used as a final finish. After waiting for it to dry, the surface is polished with a special grater or sandpaper.

The visual method is complex and requires some skill, so only experienced builders use it. But all the work can be done in a short period of time and, if the partition has a slight slope, an acceptable result can be obtained. As a result, all the main decorative elements (skirting boards, baguettes) will be perfectly even.

The use of plasterboard structures

Due to the complexity of plaster leveling, more and more often, the GKL installation option is chosen as the main way to eliminate irregularities. This is also true if the house is wooden and the use of leveling solutions is impossible.

The main advantages include the following points:

  • can quickly fix very crooked walls;
  • ease of working with a surface of any material (concrete, gas blocks, brick, wood);
  • the frame method allows you to improve the soundproofing properties and carry out additional wall insulation.

Disadvantages of using drywall:

  • the partition reduces the internal volume of the room;
  • even moisture-resistant material loses its initial characteristics upon prolonged contact with water;
  • increased requirements for fine finishing, which includes the need to reinforce the seams with a mesh, followed by puttying and grouting the surface;
  • additional assistance is required, since it is difficult to carry out installation on your own, especially in the absence of proper experience.

Sheets are mounted in two ways: frame and frameless. Each has its own technology, scope. The first option involves the installation of a crate, it is carried out with a significant curvature of the walls, when installing additional insulation, soundproofing the room, and also when it is necessary to hide the wires.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a drywall construction:

  • Wallpaper, the “moving” parts of the old coating, are removed from the surface.
  • Having drawn a line on the ceiling, mark the outer edge of the location of the sheets. Transfer the border to the floor using a plumb line.
  • On the walls, mark the position of the vertical racks (three units per sheet) and the attachment points of the suspensions necessary for adjustment.
  • Having fixed the damper tape on the guides (using dowels every 30-40 cm), they are attached to the ceiling, floor.
  • Having drilled holes in the wall, mount the suspensions.
  • The vertical racks are fixed with self-tapping screws, checking their position with a level and pre-installing them in the guides. Then they are fixed on suspensions, bending the protruding parts to the sides.
  • If necessary, in places of horizontal joints, additional jumpers are mounted, which add rigidity to the frame.
  • Holes are drilled for switches, sockets, and chamfers of 45˚ are made at the joints of the sheets.
  • Prepared drywall fragments (of the required size) are fastened with hardware to the crate, slightly sinking the heads into the material.
  • At the final stage, the surfaces are puttied and the wallpaper and tiles are glued.

GKL fastening with glue

With this method, if the planes are relatively flat and do not need preparation, the sheets are mounted directly on the base.

The order of work is as follows:

  • The old coating is removed, the protrusions are knocked down and, having expanded the existing cracks, they are sealed with mortar.
  • The walls are treated with a deep penetration primer.
  • Prepare, cut drywall.
  • A special glue is applied to each sheet in the form of strips along the perimeter plus several dotted elements inside it.
  • The workpiece is pressed against the wall. Check its position relative to the plane and, if everything is in order, hold for a minute, waiting for the adhesive mixture to set.

It is very important to set the first skin element correctly, since all the others will be joined to it. To facilitate the task and prevent sheets from slipping, in the lower part at the level of the plinth, a rake is screwed y. It, holding the fragments in the right position until the glue is completely dry, will ensure reliable adhesion of the surfaces. Then it is removed and the installation site is covered with a plinth.

Before gluing the wallpaper, the finishing treatment of the plasterboard begins:

  • connecting seams are covered with reinforcing mesh and putty;
  • after waiting for their hardening, grouting is carried out with the help of fine sandpaper;
  • the surface is primed twice, taking a break in work until each layer is completely dry;
  • before gluing the wallpaper, the plane is puttied again, but in the case of tiling, decorative stone, this is not necessary.

By correctly determining the amount of work to be done, the consumption of material and, having assessed the quality of the walls, it is possible to significantly simplify the repair. Indeed, with a slight curvature, there is no need to erect a frame and install GKL sheets. Then, to obtain the desired result, in order to eliminate small irregularities, it is enough to clean and level all surfaces with plaster.


Smooth walls are a rather rare occurrence in construction. Even modern developers sin with this - when buying an apartment in a new building, you have to eliminate small flaws. As for the buildings put into operation 20 or even 50 years ago, the walls there require serious preparation before decorative finishing. Aligning walls is a rather lengthy and painstaking job, but the advice of experienced craftsmen will help even a beginner to cope with this task.

Many people, when starting repairs, skip the work associated with surface preparation. They explain this decision in different ways: some want to save money, others want time, others even consider this stage insignificant.

Wall alignment becomes a guarantee of high-quality and beautiful decorative finishes.

The pattern on the wallpaper does not “float”, the tile is securely fastened and creates an aesthetic look in the room. The cost of rough work is quite affordable, especially if you do it yourself.

The better to align the walls

How to align the walls in the apartment? To answer this question, you should conduct a thorough inspection of the surfaces and identify the number and size of irregularities. This will require the following tools:

  • nails;
  • hammer;
  • a plumb line or level 2–2.5 m long;
  • threads.

A nail is driven into one of the upper corners, while its hat should protrude from the wall by 2-3 mm. This mark will become the first beacon. A thread is tied to the nail, at the other end of which some kind of load is attached (a nut is quite suitable). The length of the thread should be such that the nut almost reaches the floor. The absence of vibrations of the nut in the suspended state indicates that the thread has formed a right angle with the floor surface. It is here in the lower corner (next to the nut) that the second nail is driven in. The head of the nail and the thread should then be on the same line.

The same principle of operation is used when driving nails into opposite corners of the wall and partition. To identify and measure irregularities, stretch long threads crosswise. From the top corner, the thread is pulled to the bottom corner of the opposite wall and vice versa.

Such a guide of crossed threads will allow you to see all the flaws in the surface. If the deviations are 10-15 mm, then you can get by with plaster and putty. When there are more irregularities, it is better to choose a technology using drywall. How to align the wall with your own hands in one way or another? More on this later.

2 ways to level walls: plaster or sheathing

There are 2 main alignment methods. This is the use:

  • drywall;
  • dry plaster mix.

It is necessary to make a choice in favor of a particular technology, taking into account the condition of the walls and the selected decorative coating.

Masters in interior decoration recommend using drywall sheets for further puttying, painting walls and wallpapering. For tiled masonry, plasterboard leveling is not suitable, due to the smoothness of the surface, which prevents adhesion.

How to properly level walls for ceramic tiles? For this, the technology of plastering is used. This method is considered universal, as it is suitable for decorative finishing with any materials.

There is another way to make the wall in the house perfectly smooth - to apply putty, however, it is only suitable in some cases, when the irregularities near the wall are very small, and you need to achieve a perfectly smooth surface.

Leveling walls with plaster

The process of plastering the surface is quite long and complicated, so before you level the walls with your own hands, you should ask about the cost of the work of specialists. It is quite possible that the price will be acceptable and it will be much easier and faster to order this service.

Before giving preference to this technology for leveling the surface from the inside, you should weigh its pros and cons. Among the advantages, the following features should be mentioned.

  • A small layer of plaster allows you to achieve a minimum reduction in the volume of the room. This makes it suitable for use in tight spaces.
  • Plaster is ideal for rooms with any level of humidity and temperature conditions.
  • Any finishing material is well attached to a leveled surface.
  • Suitable for both general and spot leveling of individual small areas.

However, the plastering technology also has several disadvantages.

  • Ineffective for large irregularities. To level the walls in the apartment, a thick layer of plaster will be required, which will increase the cost and labor costs (it is faster and cheaper to use drywall).
  • To perform such work, skills will be required, so the beginner will have to develop them in the process.
  • Long drying (at least a week).

Surface preparation

Before starting work on leveling, the surface must be properly prepared. The quality of the work performed and the service life of the plaster layer depend on this.

How to level walls that already have an old layer of plaster? First of all, you should remove everything that breaks off and exfoliates. It is most convenient to do this with a spatula. If the wall looks solid and there are no potholes or cracks on it, you should carefully tap it. In those places where the sound is heard more muffled, there are probably peelings of the plaster layer. Now it is still holding up well, but a fresh layer of material can cause peeling and partial collapse. For this reason, it is desirable to get rid of the old plaster layer completely by cleaning the wall to the ground.

If there are cracks on the surface, they should be embroidered. Large potholes are sealed first separately, since the plaster has restrictions on the thickness of the layer.

An old layer of paint is also not the best basis for applying plaster - in this case, the surface will be too smooth. Correct the situation will help a special primer or applying notches to the surface of the wall. Their number should be approximately 100 pieces per 1 sq. meter. A perforator or a grinder will help you quickly cope with such work. In the absence of power tools, the old method will come to the rescue - notching with an ax.

The next step is applying a primer. It increases adhesiveness and makes the plaster layer durable.

What mixes are used to level the walls

When choosing a material for leveling walls, you should pay attention to its cost. Too cheap building material indicates savings on production technology. Such mixtures can quickly peel off, “leak” and cause many other inconveniences.

Differences in dry mixes lies in their composition. They can be:

  • gypsum - able to maintain a good indoor climate, so they are ideal for living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms and other living rooms;
  • cement - more suitable for rooms with high humidity (bath, kitchen).

Requires attention and such an indicator as the maximum allowable layer thickness. It is indicated on the packaging.

Plastering walls: step by step instructions

Before leveling the walls, you need to prepare the necessary tools:

  • Master OK;
  • grater;
  • trowel;
  • rule;
  • falcon;
  • level;
  • ladle;
  • wide brush;
  • beacon metal;
  • mortar box or other container for preparing the solution.

You can level the walls in the apartment in 2 ways:

  • with the help of beacons;
  • with the help of a rule.

Both options have advantages and disadvantages.

Lighthouse plastering

The work is carried out in stages. How to align the walls according to all the rules?

  1. Installation of beacons. T-shaped profiles are used as beacons (they can be replaced with slats). The distance between the rails is equal to the length of the rule - its sides should rest on the nearest profiles. They are attached to the surface of the wall with the help of thrown mortar “cakes”. While the solution has not had time to seize, all profiles must be leveled. As a result, all the rails should be in the same plane. The extreme profiles are not fixed at the very corner of the room, but at a distance of 30 cm.
  2. Mixture preparation. The solution is prepared based on the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer. A large amount of the solution should not be diluted at a time - it solidifies rather quickly (especially with a gypsum composition).
  3. Applying plaster. The solution is thrown between two beacons with a spatula (in terms of volume, the solution should protrude slightly above the slats). The rule is led from the bottom up, carefully distributing the mixture throughout the niche. In this case, the rule should rest on the edges of the rails. Thus fill all the space between the profiles.
  4. Extract profiles. After the solution dries, the slats are pulled out, and the holes from them are filled with a solution and smoothed with a grater.

Rule Alignment

In this case, the work is not performed on the entire wall, but only on its problem areas. While working with the rule, it is pressed against the wall and the solution is distributed until gaps no longer form between the rule and the wall. Even if the alignment done “by eye” gives a slight slope, it is almost never noticeable. This saves both time and effort.

How to level walls with drywall

This wall leveling technology involves the use of drywall sheets. This method has become widespread due to several advantages.

  • Even large surface irregularities and flaws are quickly eliminated.
  • It is possible to use in rooms with walls made of any material: wood, concrete, brick, gas blocks.

Drywall allows you to enhance the heat and sound insulation performance of the room.

However, this technology does not exclude disadvantages.

  • The volume of the room is noticeably reduced.
  • In rooms with high humidity, gypsum boards are deformed.
  • After the installation of the plates, additional fine finishing is required (this is the reinforcement of the seams, puttying, priming the walls).

At the same time, drywall allows you to quickly and without much difficulty align the walls with your own hands without involving craftsmen in two ways:

  • frame;
  • on glue.

Frame method of fastening drywall

This option is chosen if:

  • heavily curved walls;
  • additional soundproofing and insulation of the room is needed.

All work can be divided into stages.

  1. Training. In this case, in order to level the wall, minimal preparation is required - the wallpaper and the peeling layer of plaster are removed.
  2. Markup. First, the line of the outer edge of the future wall is applied to the ceiling, after which, using plumb lines, these marks are transferred to the floor. They are needed for fastening vertical racks (fasteners are made at a distance of 60 cm).
  3. Guide preparation. A damper tape is glued to the guides and they are attached with dowel-nails to the floor and ceiling. Mounting step 40 cm. Suspensions are also attached to the wall using dowel-nails.
  4. Rack installation. The height of the racks should be approximately 1-2 cm less than the total height from floor to ceiling. They are installed in guides and fastened with self-tapping screws. The correct installation of each rack is checked by a level, after which they are fixed on direct suspensions. To give the frame rigidity, horizontal jumpers are installed (especially in those places where the horizontal joints of drywall sheets are located).
  5. Drywall installation. Sheets are cut into separate pieces with the required dimensions, holes are drilled for sockets and switches. With the help of a planer, chamfers of 45 degrees are prepared (at the junctions). The sheets are fastened to the frame using self-tapping screws at a distance of about 30 cm. Upon completion of this stage, fine finishing follows.

Drywall for glue

When leveling the walls with your own hands, you can use this method if the irregularities are relatively small. Progress.

  1. Surface preparation. The old layer of decorative coating is removed, all layers of material are removed. An antiseptic primer is applied to the walls.
  2. Installation. After cutting sheets of drywall, glue is applied not to the entire surface of the sheet, but to its sides. For greater strength, make several “cakes” of glue in the center. Having pressed a piece of drywall against the wall, you should check its position with a level and carefully press it for 2-3 minutes. This is followed by the final alignment of the walls.

Repair is always a long and costly undertaking. How to level the walls? The main thing is to follow the advice and recommendations of finishing experts exactly. With their help, even a beginner can cope with such a thing.

The question of how to align the walls is asked by many apartment owners who have gathered to make repairs on their own. Not so long ago, the range of materials for leveling walls was not great. Today, the situation on the building materials market has changed dramatically, but there are only 2 methods for eliminating irregularities on surfaces:

  • their facing GKL;
  • plastering with building mixtures.

These wall alignment methods have both positive and negative sides. Those who prefer drywall will not have to deal with the laborious process of preparing walls for plastering. It is enough for them to repair the cracks and fix the crate under the sheets on the walls. In addition, any communications can be hidden under the GKL. However, using sheet materials to level the walls, homeowners significantly reduce its area.

A similar problem does not arise when leveling walls with building mixtures, but the process itself is laborious. Surfaces for plastering need careful preparation. Beacon profiles must be fixed on the walls, relying on which, the rule will distribute the plaster over the surface. In addition, wall leveling compounds are often unable to cope with too large irregularities. However, for those who decide to level the walls with Rotband, it will be easier to cope with the task than for builders who use other compositions in their work.

Characteristics of the mixture "Rotband"

"Rotband" - gypsum plaster, which has a number of advantages over other mixtures. She:

  • excellent contact with most surfaces;
  • has high plasticity;
  • not prone to cracking and delamination;
  • has a relatively small weight;
  • dries quickly;
  • practically does not shrink;

The disadvantages of the mixture for leveling walls include:

  • high price;
  • inability to use in rooms with high humidity;
  • weak adhesion of the layers of "Rotband" to each other.

True, the last drawback is eliminated if, before applying the next layer, the previous one is treated with a special primer.

When plastering with Rotband, the same tool is used as when working with other mixtures:

  • trowels;
  • putty knife;
  • grater;
  • rule.

Surface preparation

Before you start leveling the walls with Rotband, they need to be prepared. They need to be removed:

  • wallpaper;
  • old paint;
  • dust, dirt, greasy stains;
  • peeling fragments of plaster.

At this stage, a tool such as;

  • brushes;
  • spatulas;
  • hammer and chisel.

Finally, the remaining dust is removed from the walls with a vacuum cleaner or a damp brush. Significant cracks are best repaired with a cement-sand mortar. After that, the surfaces must be treated with a primer "Betonkontakt" or "Grundirmittel". The latter is produced by Knauf, therefore it is most compatible with Rotband.

First you need to take the rule and check the state of the wall with it. If the walls are fairly even, with differences of no more than 5-7 mm, they can be leveled without installing beacons. Using a tool such as a spatula, "Rotband" is applied to the surface like putty.

In other cases, you have to install beacons. It must be said right away that it is better to purchase plastic profiles, which, after plastering, can be left in the wall. Metal beacons (even galvanized ones) will begin to corrode over time, and rusty spots will definitely show through the wallpaper. You can safely install steel beacons if the wall is subsequently tiled.

Before installing the beacons, “hills” of gypsum plaster are applied to the wall with a spatula. The distance between them in a vertical row should be about 30 cm. The longer the rule, the greater the distance between the "cakes" horizontally, but in any case it should be slightly less than the length of the fixture, since the tool will rest on adjacent walls when leveling the walls. lighthouses.


First, it is better to install beacons closest to the corner parts of the room. They need to be pressed into the “slides” and checked for verticality with a level or plumb line. Between them, pull 2-3 threads and, guided by the cords, install the remaining profiles. Next, you need to additionally check the plane by applying a building level or rule to the beacons (perpendicular to them).

Plastering with "Rotband"

To obtain a quality mixture, it is necessary to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for its preparation.

It is best to prepare the solution using a tool such as a construction mixer or a hammer drill (powerful drill) with a special nozzle. The finished mixture should be worked out within half an hour.

With a trowel, you need to apply a solution between the beacons. Leading the rule on them, you should distribute the solution along the wall. Leveling the surface must begin from the bottom. Excess solution is removed from the device with a spatula and recovered into a container. The solution is again laid in the remaining recesses, and the rule passes through the uneven areas again. In the corners of the room for plastering, it is more advisable to use a corner trowel.


If it is necessary to plaster in several layers, a new layer is applied after the previous one has hardened. Before re-plastering, the dried layer is primed. In addition, cross-shaped notches are made on it. With multi-layer plastering, the rule is used only for finishing alignment. The main tool for applying "Rotband" during preliminary plastering of the surface is a trowel. The leveling process is completed 2-3 hours after plastering by rubbing the surface with a grater moistened with water.

About the simplicity of working with Rotband

It should be noted that even the most distant person from the profession of a builder will be able to level the walls in the apartment with the Rotband mixture. Having gained minimal experience with gypsum plaster, the master will be able to create a surface ready for finishing with almost any material.

Aligning the walls is a problem solved by the owners on their own or with the involvement of specialists. Geometrically correct, impeccably smooth walls of the apartment make a pleasant impression on both residents and guests. Old houses often cannot boast of evenness and geometric correctness of structures. Aligning the walls is also required in new buildings, if the finishing has not yet been completed or produced for a number of reasons is of poor quality.

How to align the walls in the apartment with your own hands

The choice of alignment method depends on the degree of unevenness of the walls. If the walls collapse (deviate from verticality), go with a screw, have depressions or bulges, drops on their surface, uneven corners, then the walls are leveled in two main ways:

  • plastering;
  • installation of drywall sheets (gypsum board).

Each of these methods has two varieties. So plastering is performed without the use of beacons (if the irregularities are not too large) or is carried out using beacon strips. The use of beacons allows you to make a flat surface without much effort and quickly. Without beacons, you can align the corners or small flaws.

Dry plaster (application of drywall) is also performed by one of two options:

  • drywall sheets are glued directly to the wall surface;
  • for fastening the HL make a frame.

Regardless of the method of fixing drywall, it may be necessary to plaster it, for example, at joints, for painting or decorative plaster.

The third main way is to level the walls with putty. Puttying is used if it is only necessary to smooth the surface thoroughly for wallpapering or applying a paint layer. Putty also eliminates pores or covers minor defects.

Often, putty is used before performing thin-layer decorative plaster, for example, Venetian plaster, which requires perfect evenness of the base surface.

Dry plaster is not used to level the outer surfaces (house facade), since gypsum and drywall sheets do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, only one external leveling method (out of all listed) is available - plastering.

Whatever wall alignment technology you choose, all operations should be performed correctly in order to avoid the appearance of technological defects.

Wall plastering

In general, plastering is a series of actions to create a monolithic surface from hardening compounds. The compositions are applied to the prepared base with a layer of a certain thickness. For each composition, there is a maximum and minimum possible layer thickness (this data is indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer of the mixture).

The material used to line the walls

As a rule, to perform plastering to level the curved surface, compositions are used on or on the basis. In suburban wooden or adobe buildings, alignment is especially often done using. are low cost and readily available. They can be made with your own hands, observing the proportions of the components.

However, wall leveling materials are not limited to mineral mortars. In new buildings, where shrinkage processes have not yet stopped, as well as in places with vibration coming from the railway track or seismically active areas, mineral compositions are not used because of their inability to withstand such loads. They are successfully replaced with mixtures having elasticity, for example, or others. Their high cost pays off with operation.

For leveling plastering of facades, as well as damp rooms (for example), it is recommended to use mixtures with a cement binder. For interior work - gypsum or lime simple compositions, or complex (gypsum-lime, cement-lime, etc.).

Manufacturers offer mixtures (dry or ready-made) in their lines, specially designed for leveling ceilings or walls. Of the many mixtures, it is better to choose those that are released by well-known companies that care about their reputation.

Plastering walls without installing beacons

Visual alignment of the walls is resorted to if the walls are almost even or minor correction is required. For example, if you only need to smooth the walls for painting, this is done by puttying or grinding using a composition with a fine fraction filler.

Leveling plastering without the use of beacons is done when the thickness of the applied layers is relatively small. Without lighthouses, it is much more difficult to achieve a smooth surface than with them, so only experienced plasterers can perform such work with high quality. If you are a beginner in the plastering business, then either entrust it to specialists. When performing plastering by this method, the verticality and evenness of the surface during operation is checked using a level and a rule.

Leveling plastering (with or without beacons) is performed in several passes (layers are applied in stages) with different compositions:

  1. The first layer of spray is applied - a solution similar in consistency to semi-liquid sour cream. It provides adhesion to the base of subsequent compositions.
  2. The next layer is soil (or base). Solution of normal consistency. Depending on the total thickness of the leveling coating, it can be carried out in several passes.
  3. The top layer is called the lining. It is performed with a semi-liquid solution, the filler of which has only a fine fraction. This layer is not necessary if the subsequent (finishing) finish does not require a perfectly smooth base.

The name "spray" comes from the method of application. Experienced plasterers apply the spray using a ladle. It can also be applied with a trowel. Small portions of the mixture are thrown onto the base by moving the tool away from you so that the plaster “sour cream”, hitting and spreading with force, sticks to the wall. The spray is applied without leaving gaps.

The surface of the spray is not leveled, but on the contrary, it is drawn with horizontal stripes with a sharp corner of the spatula. This creates additional conditions for increasing adhesion. The thickness of the spray can be different. For sheathed shingles, the thickness is 15-18 mm, for or masonry, a sufficient layer of mortar is 10-12 mm.

Some craftsmen apply the spray with a brush without making a wide sweep of the hand so that the spray does not scatter around. A brush is used if the base does not have large drops (relatively even). "Spray" can also be "smeared" with a spatula. A portion of the solution is collected on the tool, transferred to the wall with strokes with a slight indentation. They do not make a particularly flat surface.

After complete drying, the spray is applied with a trowel (if the layer is thick) or a primer with a spatula. The surface of the layer is leveled with a rule or a grater. Plastering is carried out in sections (approximate area per square meter). When leveling, the rule immediately identifies areas where the solution is not enough. They are filled with excess solution removed from the rule.

The corners are leveled with a corner spatula or with other devices (the process can be viewed on the video).

If there is a finish - tiling or, covering is not required. In this case, the surface of the last layer of soil is rubbed with a grater or a trowel, making circular movements. Make grout after the solution grabs and stops sticking to the fingers.

To obtain a smooth surface, a coating is performed (layer up to 2 mm). After wetting the surface, apply a little solution to it, which is smoothed with a grater or trowel with rounded edges. Passing the tool along the top of the layer, where there are convex places, the grater is pressed against the wall more strongly, no pressure is made over the recesses. Excess solution collected on a grater is removed.

If the coating composition is prepared independently, then the bulk components are sifted through a mesh with cells up to 1 mm.

Having rubbed the entire area in a circle, they proceed to the longitudinal grouting - rectilinear movements. The first pass is vertical, the second pass is horizontal. During grouting, small pores are filled with mortar milk, and protruding irregularities are removed with a tool.

With multi-layer plastering, each layer must be dried (usually a day).

Alignment of walls with plaster on lighthouses

This method is easily mastered by beginners, since beacon strips act as a help in maintaining the finishing plane.

Lighthouse is a plank whose profile has a smooth, straight upper edge.

Leaning on the edges of two beacons, as a rule, cut off the excess mortar protruding above the plane specified by the beacons with the edge of the tool.

Lighthouse slats can be made of metal, wood, plastic or mortar, such as plaster. Metal strips are standard and have a height of at least 6 mm. Install beacons on the wall vertically. The extreme beacons are moved away from the corners of the wall by 20-30 cm. Intermediate beacons are placed between the extreme beacons, maintaining a distance not exceeding the length of the rule minus 20 cm (it is usually easier for beginners to manage with a distance between beacons up to 1.5 m).

In addition to the distance between the beacons, they withstand their excess above the wall surface, since the top of the beacons must be in a single vertical plane. To create this plane, the geometry of the wall is first examined, its most protruding point is determined. To it is added the minimum thickness of the plaster coating (total spatter and soil). They are guided by this point, setting the extreme beacons.

You can do this in various ways. The simplest setting of beacons using a laser level. To support the planks of the beacons on the wall, mortar or support pads assembled from several pieces of drywall are used. Pieces of drywall are glued to the base on a solution that dries quickly (beacons are attached to the sites on it). How to install beacons, look at the video.

The application of plaster layers is similar to plastering without beacons (spray, primer and coating). Layers are applied between the planks of two adjacent beacons. The spray is applied sequentially, on the entire wall. The soil is applied by moving between two lighthouses. If the thickness of the soil layer does not reach the top of the lighthouses, the layer is slightly leveled with a trowel or spatula. The top of the spray usually does not protrude above the beacons.

When the applied solution of the top layer of soil rises 1.5-2 cm above the beacons, they begin to level the mixture with the rule. To do this, the bar of the rules is placed horizontally, and, resting it on the edges of the lighthouses, they lead vertically, making zigzag movements. At the same time, excess plaster composition protruding above the planks is cut off.

The cut solution is thrown off with a spatula from the rule into a container or applied where the solution is lacking. The rule is to carry out 2-3 movements from the bottom up, then make one cutting movement from the top down (to fix the composition and prevent its slipping).

The areas between the two beacons are plastered not immediately from top to bottom, but in sections up to 1 m high. Having leveled one area, apply the solution to the next one. This is how they plaster section by section between two lighthouses, then proceed to plastering the gap between the next pair of lighthouses. The corner sections are plastered last.

After the soil has set, the lighthouse strips are removed, the grooves formed are filled with mortar and leveled with a spatula. Only beacons made from mortar do not require removal. After the composition seizes in the grooves, the wall surface is rubbed (with or without coating).

Alignment of walls with drywall - dry plaster

It will not be superfluous to get acquainted with how walls are leveled without plaster. Sometimes surfaces can be leveled much faster by installing drywall sheets - hl, which immediately set the desired geometry. Evenness is ensured by the original geometry of drywall and correct installation.

Installation of drywall without a frame

Performing the alignment of the walls in the apartment by planting drywall sheets on glue (without frame crates), makes it possible for the homeowner to save precious floor space. Instead, the work itself becomes more difficult. Since the wall can go with a screw, be “falling” in one direction or another, right angles between the walls cannot be maintained, beacons, usually made from pieces of drywall, are of particular importance. It is on them that a sheet of drywall sheathing will be based.

Making beacons can take a long time. To fasten one beacon, they make a kind of frame - they stick a stack of plasterboard rectangles, twist wide-headed screws or hammer in slate nails. The top of the caps of all wall screws should lie in the same plane (verified in any way possible). Each such frame is surrounded by a slide of gypsum-adhesive composition, making a flat top.

An easier method is used if the wall is more even. After priming and drying, an adhesive composition is applied pointwise (slides) to the base (or to the attached drywall sheet). The sheet is applied to the beacons, and, following its verticality, is pressed against the wall. To adjust the position, you can lightly tap on the sheet. It is better to press down the sheet with a rule with a level.

Without frame mounting method - video

Frame method of mounting drywall

The most popular way to level walls without plaster using drywall is frame. If you are not embarrassed by such a disadvantage of the method as hiding the space of the room by at least 5 cm on each side, then in this way the room can not only be leveled, but parallel and insulated, as well as reduce the level of incoming noise. The space between the wall and the HL is easy to fill with insulating or soundproofing material, and the base does not require such preparation as plastering.

Preparation of the base consists in removing the old coating (if there are serious defects in the building structures, for example, cracks, they, of course, are “healed”), priming, and drying. For a primer, choose a tool that prevents the appearance of mold and other microorganisms. If the walls are subject to wetting due to the rise of groundwater along them, waterproofing and sanitizing work is performed.

To create a frame, profiles are used (most often metal), which are installed vertically with great care, since they set the plane of the future wall surface. Gkl have a standard width of 1.2 m, so the profiles are mounted by setting the distance between their axes - 60 cm. With this arrangement, it is convenient to place insulating mats, and each sheet of drywall is attached in three lines.

The verticality of standard frame profiles is adjusted by attaching them to brackets - direct suspension. The design of the latter allows you to adjust the distance of the profile from the wall. The exact alignment of the frame sets the ideal plane created by the drywall sheets attached to it with self-tapping screws. After installation, the joints of the hl are sealed, the top of the sheets is primed and puttied.

The completion of leveling the surface of the walls can be the application of putty. The putty layer is able to form the smoothest surface, since the leveling putty mixture contains the smallest filler. It is plastic, easy to apply and fit on any base. It can even be used instead of decorative plaster.

Putty is applied in a thin layer using a wide spatula or trowel. The mass, sensitive to the slightest touch, is too easily given to any touch of the instrument. Therefore, for a smooth application, the hand needs to be “stuffed”.

Usually putty is applied in two passes, using the starting mixture for the first layer, and the finishing mixture for the second. If defects (irregularities, furrows) are obtained during the application of the layer, they are immediately leveled, since the putty quickly gains strength after setting.

Perfect smoothness is achieved by grinding the finish layer. For grinding work, use a grinder or rub it by hand. To highlight possible irregularities, side lighting is used.

Methods for determining surface roughness

The degree of unevenness is detected visually or instrumentally with measurements. Knowing the size and type of deviations from the ideal geometric shape allows you to make a rational decision when choosing a correction method, as well as calculate the approximate amount of materials needed. How to check how and how uneven the wall surface is?

To identify irregularities and their magnitude, a long (2-2.5 m) even rail with a section of 20 x 50 mm or a rule of the same length, as well as a level or plumb line, is used. Applying the rail to the wall vertically, horizontally and diagonally, observe the deviation of the wall surface from the plane. To check the perpendicularity of the structures to each other and the ceiling, use a square or measuring devices (tape measure, cord).

Lines are drawn horizontally on the walls forming the corner and measured from the corner on one wall - 2 m, on the other - 1.5. The legs of a right triangle are formed, the hypotenuse of which (the distance between the marked points) should be 2.5 m. A distance less or more will show, respectively, an acute or obtuse angle between the walls.

Verticality or fall is checked using a plumb or level. This and the previous geometric checks can be done quickly and easily with a laser level.

Preparing surfaces for leveling

The main methods for leveling and determining the curvature of the surface have already been described above, but preparation must be carried out before starting work.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the preparatory work - so much preparation affects the quality of the entire finishing complex. Work on leveling the walls begins with the removal of decorative finishes (wallpaper, cladding, layers of paint or whitewash). The released surface is examined visually and with the help of a simple tool. Identification of defects in the plaster layer.

Having identified the nature of the deviations, proceed to the initial correction. If the plaster coating is strong, does not have, then excessively large protrusions or bulges are cut down. If there are many defects, and the coating is deemed unusable, it is removed to the ground.

Wall structures can be made of brick, monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, wood, made of stone or cellular concrete blocks. The type of wall material determines part of the preparatory work that increases the adhesion strength (adhesion). For example, masonry made of stone or brick requires grouting (depressions of 0.5-1.0 cm), concrete surfaces require notches to ensure strong adhesion of the mortar to smooth concrete.

Shingles are stuffed on wooden surfaces or wire mesh is attached. Measures to increase adhesion cannot be neglected, since plastering creates a coating that has a large dead weight.

The preparatory measures include cleaning the base from stains of various kinds. Oil stains must be degreased. Rot, fungus, mold are scraped out, washed out and treated with an antibiotic agent.

Efflorescence, rust, soot are removed in various ways. To prevent new rust from appearing, all unnecessary metal parts are removed from the wall, the remaining ones are isolated, for example, with oil paint. To prevent efflorescence, high-quality waterproofing of the walls is made.

During internal work, hidden wiring is de-energized. At the same time, sockets and switches are often replaced, that is, the old covers are removed, the ends of the wires are insulated, and the boxes are sealed for the duration of plastering with masking tape. After carrying out all the finishing work, new electrical appliances are installed.

Cracks, chips and other defects in the base are repaired. The surface of the base is cleaned of dust. A primer is applied that matches both the wall material and the plaster mortar. The preparatory work also includes reinforcement and installation of beacons. The base must not only be cleaned, but also dried.

Preparatory work in stages:

  • removal of the old coating;
  • base cleaning;
  • defect repair;
  • applying a primer;
  • drying;
  • reinforcement;
  • installation of beacons.

What you need to level the walls

Alignment of the walls requires the preparation of the necessary materials, tools and fixtures

For plastering you will need:

  • trowel or trowel;
  • spatulas of different sizes;
  • grater or half grater;
  • rule;
  • paint brush (for wetting and priming);
  • mixer;
  • roller;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • masking tape;
  • lace;
  • containers;
  • lighthouse slats;
  • jointing or a tool replacing it;
  • hammer and hacksaw (for stuffing shingles);
  • clean rag.

In addition, you may need a tool to remove old plaster.

For external plastering, scaffolding or scaffolding will be needed, a canopy device that protects the solution from rain and sun. For interior decoration - ladder, scaffolding.

From consumables you need to stock up:

  • plaster mixtures (or their components in case of self-preparation of the composition);
  • primer;
  • shingles (for plastering wooden structures);
  • reinforcing mesh;
  • fastening elements (nails for stuffing shingles, self-tapping screws, dowels for fixing the mesh).

Gallery

For a visual representation of how to align the walls with your own hands, a selection of photos has been made for you. You can see how the masters perform the plastering work, how to properly hold the tools, how the surface should look during processing.

Application of the final layer of plaster Partial alignment of the walls under the rule at the junction between the plates

The most important thing in the process of leveling walls with your own hands is to perform operations consistently, without haste, achieving quality at every stage. In the future, you will be able to use your experience more than once when repairing or building a new house.

Alignment of the walls with gypsum or cement mortar is carried out only with small (up to 4-5 cm) height differences. In other cases, it is better to use cheaper drywall.

Surface preparation

Poorly fixed layers of old plaster will fall off over time, and the repair will have to start over. Therefore, you should tap the walls with a hammer and remove all crumbling layers. The plaster easily moving away from the wall is removed with a spatula. Problem areas are processed with a grinder or cleaned with a hammer and chisel.

Removing old plaster

With the help of a grinder or a perforator, it is better to clean off too large influxes. If you leave them, you will have to apply too much plaster to level the wall at their level. The slots must be widened with a hammer and chisel so that mortar can be placed in them.


The cracks in the wall widen

Sand and crumbling fine plaster are brushed off with a brush with metal teeth. If left, the mortar will not adhere well to the wall, and may also crumble over time.


Cleaning the wall with a brush

Materials and tools

deep penetration primer;
building mixture (cement mortar or gypsum-based putty);
putty for finishing;
plumb lines (threads with a small load attached to them);
construction falcon for solution tray;
trowel for laying out plaster;
wide spatula;
rule: a tool for leveling the mortar in the form of a 1-3-meter strip of metal;
angle spatula;
grater for smoothing irregularities;
ladder.


Wall Leveling Tools

Use of plumb lines

To estimate the degree of surface curvature, it is better to use plumb lines. To do this, take a small load (for example, a nut) and attach a long thread to it. Such a plumb line is suspended from the ceiling at a minimum distance from the wall so that the load is a couple of centimeters from the floor.
The thread with the load should only slightly touch the wall. If necessary, the ceiling mount can be moved slightly closer to the wall or slightly further away from it. The lower part of the plumb line is fixed to a nail driven into the floor. Several of these plumb lines, placed along the wall, will serve as an ideal guide.

Wall alignment

1. Before starting work, the surface is treated primer. Deep penetration compounds allow you to bind the loose upper layers of the wall, prevent moisture from the solution from being absorbed into the surface and significantly increase the degree of its adhesion to the surface.


Deep penetration primer

2. To equalize large differences use beacons- guides made in the form of a perforated strip of metal or plastic, attached with mortar to the wall and used to control the leveling of the surface.

3. To arrange the beacons on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn, on which mortar slaps are applied (“ stamps"). Further, a lighthouse is pressed into them. The height of the stamps is verified building level.


Arrangement of lighthouses

4. After the “marks” have completely dried, the plaster is laid out between the beacons and distributed over the wall with the help of regulations- a tool for leveling large layers of mortar.

Important. The distance to the second beacon should be equal to the width regulations.


Alignment by the rule on two neighboring beacons


Wall appearance when aligned with beacons

5. If the degree of curvature of the walls is high, do not immediately apply too much mortar, otherwise it will crack when it dries.


Applying part of the solution

Advice. With a total layer thickness of more than 2 cm, to strengthen it and protect it from cracking, use sickle(plaster polymer mesh with small cells), which is pressed into the solution.


Laying sickle

6. Instead of metal beacons, you can use plumb lines. In this case, small wooden linings will serve as a guideline for the rule.


Arrangement of "brands" with the help of plumb lines

7. In order not to damage the drying solution, alignment is carried out round: first, the plaster is applied to the first wall, then, then work is started on the next wall, etc.

8. You can get a perfectly even and smooth surface using finishing putty. It is applied in a thin layer (up to 1.5 mm), and after drying it is polished with sandpaper. Finishing is used to prepare the wall for painting with acrylic paints or sticking thin wallpaper. When facing with ceramic tiles, plastic, cork, etc., such a finish is not required.


Leveling the wall with finishing plaster

Corner Alignment

1. After leveling the first wall, the corner adjacent to it is laid plastic corner profile with reinforcing mesh fixed on the sides or without it. Its fastening is carried out using a solution, the excess of which is squeezed out with a spatula. The depth of immersion of the profile in the putty is checked building level. After the corner has dried, the profile is smoothed with a solution.


Corner profile with sickle


Inner corner check

2. External corners(slopes of walls and windows) are also leveled using plastic or metal profiles. They not only allow you to create perfectly even corners, but also protect it from damage during the transfer of furniture or equipment.


Alignment of external corners


Installation of metal profiles

3. You can align the corners and angle trowel- a tool on the handle of which a plate bent at an angle of 90° is mounted. They can also smooth corners when installing profiles.


Angle spatula

Advice. If it is not possible to align the angle exactly at an angle of 90 °, the spatula can be slightly straightened or bent.

Alignment of walls with drywall

Finishing with this material is a less expensive method of leveling walls. For work, you should purchase the drywall itself, metal rail racks or wooden bars for attaching it, hangers for attaching them to the wall and self-tapping screws. To save space, you can do without guides and attach drywall directly to the wall.

1. For fastening with metal racks on the wall at a distance of 1 cm from the corner, a straight horizontal line is drawn, along which screws are screwed every 40-65 cm direct hangers.


Fixing a direct suspension


Profile fastening

3. The distance between each of them should be equal to width drywall. In this case, the edges of the sheets should fall on the center of the profile. To strengthen the structure between them, it is better to install intermediate profiles.


Profile fastening

4. Drywall fastened self-tapping screws for metal in increments of 25 cm. Do not screw them in at the very corners of the sheet. So that they do not break off, it is necessary to step back from the edge of 5 cm. The self-tapping screw should not protrude above the surface - it is deepened into the sheet by a couple of millimeters.


Fastening drywall exactly in the center of the profile

5. On the inner and outer corners of the walls are laid corner profiles.


Installation of corner profiles

6. Joints between sheets, recesses from self-tapping screws and corner profiles are covered with a layer putties. If the wall is being prepared for painting or wallpapering, a plastic mesh is laid at the place of each joint - sickle.


Preparing the wall for painting

Important! Drywall is not able to withstand too much load, so when hanging too heavy structures (for example, a water heater) on the wall, long metal pins should be used.

Fastening drywall without guides

1. To fix drywall without the help of profiles, self-tapping screws are screwed into the wall (40-50 pieces are required per sheet).

2. The depth of their screwing is determined using plumb line: a weight attached by a string to the ceiling.

3. A sufficiently thick layer is applied to each self-tapping screw gypsum with polymer additives on which drywall will be glued. The solution is applied so that it covers the self-tapping screw for a couple of centimeters.


Fastening drywall without using a profile

4. So that drywall does not spring back in places where the wall is bent, it is better to put pieces there foam rubber.

5. To align the sheet horizontally, linings from drywall scraps are placed under it.


Fixing drywall sheets without using profiles

6. Until the mortar sets (35-40 minutes), the sheet will have to be held on the wall with your hands.

Important! With this method of attaching joints horizontally, there should not be, therefore, sheets equal to the height of the room should be taken for work.