Economical bath oven do it yourself. Brick oven for the bath do it yourself. Brick furnace masonry solution

Metal furnaces for the bath on sale a lot, but good worth a lot of money. If there is a sufficient experience of metal welding, you can make the furnace for yourself, according to its size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - on.

There is a significant difference between the steering modes in the bath and sauna. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity is high just can not - immediately get a burn, and turns out in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is held in the range of 55-65 ° C, occasionally rising to 70 ° C. At such temperatures, the humidity "cattons" is large - 50-60%.

To ensure such different tasks, different approaches are required to build a furnace. The sauna requires the largest area of \u200b\u200bthe contact of the furnace housing with the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task as soon as possible heat the air in the steam room. Kamenka is, but it is small, open, is usually above the furnace. Stones in it are warmed up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since a lot of heat gives to the surrounding air. With such a heater, you can get some steam. But in the sauna there is no need - one / two bucket will give 15% humidity. More just not to suffer.

In the Russian pair task, the other is not to overload the room and achieve a large number of steam. Moreover, steam must be a definite condition - it should consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. With this condition, after the harvest in the body there is a lightness and tide of strength. Such pairs are obtained only with hot stones, the temperature of which is at least 500 ° C. To achieve her stones "pack" inside the furnace - it is placed in it - a closed heater.

As you can see, there are solid constructive differences. They need to be borne.

Homemade ovens for the Russian bath

What else do you need to keep in mind when designing a furnace for a Russian steam room? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to overpose. At the same time, the stove walls are tight IR radiation and there is hard. The problem is solved in two ways:

Still worth talking about the seams. In homemade furnaces from the metal (in factory, in principle, too), the extension begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is bypass using bent structures. At the top are trying to avoid the seams. In the manufacture of a furnace for a bath with your own hands, you are unlikely to bend a metal sheet with a thickness of 6-10 mm, so that only one thing remains - to make the seams as high quality.

Kamenka: What size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of steam room (provided that normally). In different sources there are different recommendations with a large or smaller number - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m 3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but provided that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that the stones of different breed have different density, and, consequently, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for the average steam room of 12-14 m 3, the size of the heater is approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. Parameters can be changed a bit, make wider / already / above - see the furnace design.

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which is not even all heat engineer to clamp. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally defined proportions. At a minimum, the volume of "free" from the firebox should not be less. Better, even more about 30-50%.

A little about which part of the furnace is best to have a box for stones. All have long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the rear wall. Here in this place and it makes sense to position the container. First, part of the thermal load from the furnace of the furnace will take off, and secondly, the stones are warm well.

Not for the service of the Kamenka and that the water should somehow go there. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can reach with your hand to the far edge without any special problems. And the water supply is deeply organized so as not to burn. Usually insert the tube or system of tubes, which diverge throughout the plane of the stones containers. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The tube is folded by stones. When the water is filled into it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of self-made bath furnaces made of metal

This furnace is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. Cooked from a sheet metal with a thickness of 3 mm.

To activate the combustion, an additional air duct has been connected from the street. From other solutions - the ribs of stiffness (corners) welded to the sides of the furnace in the upper part of the furnace so that the metal does not be flexing with strong heating.

The next diagram of the metal furnace for the bath is made with air supply to the top of the furnace. These are the so-called ovens with gases. On the back wall welded a plate of metal. In the slot between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace with the help of tubes-air ducts serves air from under grip. It is a simple, kind of device solves two tasks at once. First, it cools the rear wall, reducing the likelihood of its exercise. Secondly, the air is fed to the upper part heated. There are focused flue gases heated to high temperatures, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases are mixed with heated air, combustible substances are flammable, the temperature at the top of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry wood), fuel is needed much less. In this principle, many ovens of long burning are built, but in bathing furnaces it began to be used recently.

Approximately the same model, but without surviving, is made in another format. The dimensions are not listed here, but it is easier to understand the proportions and the location of various elements.

Volume model of a homemade stove of metal from metal

In this case, the volume of the furnace is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is dismissed back, which is not always good - there may be difficulties in the device of the chimney - it may last to the ceiling beam - you have to smoke bending, which is undesirable. So about the location of the pipe - think.

Even in the environment of fans of the bath, disputes are constantly being conducted: the water heating tank in the steam room is good or bad ... one regulates the humidity opening / closing the tank cover. They are satisfied with this option. Others say that this couple is "heavy," and bring the tank to the washing office, and the water in it is warm, by building a heat exchanger in the furnace and connecting it with the tank tubes. Next scheme - a furnace in a metal bath with a water tank.

The design is competent - with the help of a "sparking" the path of the flue gases is longer, it remains longer in the furnace, it is better heats up the wall. If you do not want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank, which is located in the back of the furnace. Chimney shifted back, and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat power will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the outlet of the tank will not be exactly.

Interestingly arranged Kamenka. It is not very big, but for small and medium pylons of its volume is enough. It closes the lid that on the one hand is not very convenient: to close the lid after the supply of water on the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

How to make a sauna oven

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly "catch up" the desired temperature and be able to support it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow the walls of the furnace, accelerating the heating.

Approximately the same function is performed by the cover-convector. This casing around the furnace housing. Between it and the wall of the furnace remains a gap of 1.5-2 cm. In this slit, the air is suused below. It passes along the walls, heats up, at the same time the oven. Next rises up, spreading heat in a steam room.

If the furnace housing is made of thick metal, then the housing can be from thin. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and the brave does not threaten it. If in the stove for the sauna stoves will be at the top, above the furnace, as in the photo, then in the case you can make holes for the ventilation of the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will fall into the heaters, blow the stones and warm up even stronger. Such a healer is called ventilated. It is good for dry saunas.

Drawings and schemes

Design furnaces for sauna is easier. Need a furnace of a normal size, in which large lamps are placed. In the upper part, the side of the heater is welded above the top of the furnace, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Installing a tank for heating the water in the sauna steam room - the idea is not the best. You will not be able to control the humidity, and at high temperatures it is easy to get a burn. However, several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the furnace. If you wish, you can make a lid and such a furnace can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry steam, with an open - to get more steam.

Currently, there are many metal stoves for the bathroom on the market, but they all are not suiced. If you have a good metal welding experience, you can make an iron stove into a bath with your own hands. In this article we describe in detail, the applying photo, how to do it, having your sizes and drawings.

Differences of metal furnaces for a bath and sauna

Parics in the bath and sauna differ significantly among themselves. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to increase the humidity strongly, since it is inevitably obtaining skin burns. At the same time, the broom in such conditions crept in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath is characterized by a temperature around 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise relative humidity up to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different furnaces are used, and different approaches to their installation are used. If a sauna is equipped, then you need to comply with the maximum contact area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace case with air and ensure the quick circulation of air flows along the walls.

Everything comes down to heat the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open stone, located above the furnace, is able to warm up stones up to 200-250 ºС. It makes it possible to get some steam - as a rule, it is enough for the sauna, because only 15% of humidity must be achieved.

In the Russian bath, the microclimate is created other - low temperatures are achieved, and a lot of steam is produced. At the same time, it should consist of very small droplets, heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam called "dry". A similar microclimate gives the body of lightness and forces. "Dry" steam can only get the stones to the values \u200b\u200bof more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, stones are folded into the furnace, that is, in a closed heater.

Furnaces for Russian baths made by hand

The most important thing when making metal furnaces is made according to the drawings for the bath with your own hands is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature in the limits of 60-65 ºС (read: "Drawings of the bath furnace from metal - we build a furnace with your own hands"). Be sure to have to flip, which is accompanied by the radiation of strong IR waves, in which it is quite difficult to be near the stove.

You can solve this problem with two methods:

• Make a lining of the furnace. The process is to restore the furnace from the inside with refractory brick. It is enough styling on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although a narrow shaft is encountered, a thickness of 3 cm. Anyway, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heating of the heating is heated. Therefore, it should be immediately designed the furnace so that it is increased sizes, because most of its volume is discharged to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that the result is a hot smoke, which lowers fire safety. It is best to carry out its cooling by installing a tank or a heater to the pipe. It's a little more difficult to install a heating flap, passing through which, smoke cool down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install brick screen Around the stove of iron for the bath. It is collected from ceramic brick, while in the wall leave the windows to mount the doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best due to the possibility of temperature control, however it is less practical, since the rear wall is very overheated, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of the Iron Bath Furnace, you need to choose a rather thick metal. It, as practice shows, it is better to install in the upper and lower part of the furnace.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. The homemade iron stove in the bath is quite often begins to roar from poor-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent design. Top of the furnace is trying to minimize the number of seams.

In the manufacture of a metal stove for the bath with their own hands, you will be almost unable to bend 6-10 millimeter steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains extremely high-quality seams.

What sizes of the chamber and in what place it is better to put

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, than their more, the easier it is to develop the desired amount of steam.

In view of the fact that different stones differ in density, at the same weight they will take different volumes. It is determined that for a steam room having a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a 30 × 40 × 30 cm chairliter. These sizes in different situations can be corrected slightly.

Made a bath stove with their own hands, you will need to choose the individual volume of the heater, based on the size of the furnace. To prevent errors, it is better to push off the finished drawings. When using an experimental approach, it is worth considering that the volume of the furnace should exceed such a stone by approximately 30-50%.

Before building the stove in the bath, it is worth calculating the best location of the heaters in the furnace. From the practice it became clear that it is best to accommodate it from above, near the rear wall, where the largest temperature.

It is worth remembering that the Kamenka will need to be serviced, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. Luke is best located so that there is an opportunity to reach your hand to the remote edge without much difficulty, and that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting a burn.

As a rule, tubes diluted inside the capacitance, which would reach all stones, are added to the heater. From the side of the water supply, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After breeding tubes, they are stoned. After the flow of water pipes, it hits the stones in Kamenka and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel furnaces for a bath

Consider the option of the furnace, which will be relevant for a 2 × 3 × 2.3 m steam. For its design, the sheets were used with a thickness of 3 mm.

To launch the combustion process, the design provides an additional air duct that originates from the street. So that during heating the steel is not bent, the ribs ribs in the form of corners bind up to the sides.

Consider another scheme for which metal bath furnaces can be made with your own hands. These are models with a fence of air from the top of the furnace. They are still referred to as overturns with gases. On the rear wall to her steel platinum welded. In the furnace, the air comes from under grip, and is supplied through the air ducts going into the slot between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes simultaneously with two tasks: produces cooling of the rear wall, without giving it to roast, and the air is already fed to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume are combustible.

After mixing with air, their ignition occurs, which leads to an increase in temperature in the furnace and heating stones to higher indicators. If dry firewood is used as fuel, they will need significantly less. At such a principle of work, there are many ovens of prolonged burning, but for bathing stoves it began to be applied only recently. There is a similar model without surviving. After examining its drawing, it is best to understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves the construction of the furnace with a volume of 30% more than the Kamenka. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located with a displacement back, which sometimes causes difficulties when it is installed - a ceiling beam can interfere with it. At the same time, it may be necessary to degrade the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before making a stove for a bath, you should decide whether in a steaming tank for heating water. Some adjust the humidity level, opening and closing the tank cover. Other specialists claim that heavy pairs are produced in this way, so they advise you to install a tank in the washing room, and water imprivation is produced by the heat exchanger mounted in the heat exchanger, connected by the tanks.

Now consider the diagram of a metal furnace with a water tank. The design is considered quite competently worked. Thanks to the sparkoff smoke, it takes a slightly greater distance, thereby better warming the wall of the furnace. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing the tank behind the furnace. Chimney is shifted back by passing through the tank. Because of the high height of the tank there will be an effective heat transfer, therefore - the chimney will not overheat when exiting it.

The Kamenka has a design involving small sizes, which is quite enough for small pylons. She has a lid, but due to the characteristics of the location, it can be difficult to close after water. But such a design is easier to serve.

Making a sauna oven

The main task of the furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired indicators as soon as possible and hold it at such a level. To accelerate this process, fans are used, which, blowing the walls, accelerate the heating.

Cover convector is also intended for these purposes. The gap between it and the wall of the furnace should be 1.5-2 cm. Through the gap takes absorption of air, which in the process of movement is heated, while the walls are cooled.

To make the stove in a bath with your own hands as high quality and practical, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing of thin, because it is not overheated.

When placing a heater above the furnace, in the case you can do the ventilation holes. In this case, the proportion of air raised through the walls will be directed to the heater, blowing the stones and increasing their temperature. Such a ventilated keyboard is great for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

The stoves for the sauna have a slightly simplified design. The size of the metal furnace for the bath, and the furnace itself, should be sufficient to bookmarke the large lane. Top of the furnace welded the side of the heater, the volume of which, as a rule, ranges from 20 to 25 liters. The size ratio may be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal furnace for a bath as correct as possible, you should not install the water tank. Otherwise, you will not manage to control the level of humidity in the sauna, which at extreme temperatures can lead to burns.

There is another option - install the stitch inside the furnace. It is possible to provide a cover, with such a furnace there can be two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the process of the passing is dry, and with a closed lid - to develop a larger pair.

How to make a stove for a bath: metal bath oven with your own hands, a metal stove, drawings, how to make from iron, how to build, sizes of iron bath furnaces, photos and videos

How to make a stove for a bath: metal bath oven with your own hands, a metal stove, drawings, how to make from iron, how to build, sizes of iron bath furnaces, photos and videos

Metal Bath Oven: Manufacturing Instructions

To date, there are many designs of metal furnaces: wood, electrical and gas. Wood appliances require a lot of fuel, careful care, but give a "alive" fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas furnaces are most modern and reliable, have thermostats for adjusting power and protective devices that are triggered when gas attenuation.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal furnaces for a bath

Metal stoves for baths have weighty advantages over other heating structures:

• Small dimensions and mobility of metal furnace make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces are:

1. Fast cooling associated with the inability of the furnace to hold heat. Permanent support for fuel burning is required.

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

For the manufacture of the stove, metal is used with a thickness of more than 5 mm, with a smaller value, the device will not last for more than 5-7 years. Solid furnace manufacturers offer products made of ten-millimeter steel for furnaces and a bit thinner for water tanks and stones bins.

Construction of a metal stove design for a bath

The bath oven consists of three main parts, such as fuel combustion chamber, stones bunker, water heating tank.

• The combustion chamber. Here is the process of burning firewood. To control it, the doors of the fuel can be used and pissed. The latter serves to supply air to the furnace. The removal of combustion products from the furnace is performed through the ash bar - the metal grille. From the firebox, the heat from burning firewood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of the metal furnace for the bath is understandable to you, go to the process of its manufacture.

Production of the Kamenka Kamenka for a Bath of Metal Pipe

The stove will do from the pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, the height of it will be 1600 mm. To work, we will need: sheet with steel dimensions 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a pipe metal 1600 mm with a thickness of a wall of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a thickness of a wall of 5 mm, a metallic rider T. 10 mm, a cast iron grille (From the store), door loops - 8 pcs, clicks - 3 pcs, crane drain for tank, roulette, level of construction, Bulgarian, metal scissors, welding machine.

1. We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, another - 0.7 m.

Installation procedure Metal furnace in the bath

Measures on the installation of a bath furnace begin at the construction stage of the entire construction - a foundation with a small blowjob is laid to install the device. It makes the laying of two rows of bricks, and it is put on her stove.

• The minimum distance between the wall and the furnace is taken at least 1 m. In addition, it is recommended to an additional protection device in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with a foil with a layer of insulation. This will exclude the overheating of the wooden wall and its fire.

After the installation of the furnace is completed, it is possible to facing brick on the clay solution. This will improve the appearance of the device and will save people from the possibility of burns. Facing furnace can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above convince you to make a metal stove for a bath - not so difficult. If you have metal cutting skills and welding work, you can make a self-made furnace on a simple drawing, which will not be worse than purchased.

The furnace for a metal bath do it yourself

Homemade metal furnaces for baths have always compiled their brick analogues. This is due to rapid heating and simple installation of such aggregates. With the manufacturer's instructions

We collect the furnace for the bath with your own hands from the metal

A lot of furnace designs for the bath with their own hands from metal has already been done and invented, but the topic is not fully disclosed and relevant until now. With your own hands, metal bath furnaces can be made of girlfriend metal materials, only a desire and a little time is needed.

Metal stoves for baths do it yourself

After reviewing this article and observing technology, as well as adding fantasies, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you are not only perfectly falling in the bathhouse, but also surprise the neighbors and friends with unique solutions. We will tell about some more details. We will figure it out how a metal furnace can be made, what should be its dimensions and a device, and also tell me how to prepare the base (foundation) to establish the collected design.

Stove with grille for stones and water heating

What is needed for work?

If a metal furnace is built for a bath with your own hands, then you first need to make a project by defining the size of the unit, and also prepare everything you need.

Tool

• Welding machine.
• Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
• Bulgarian.

Material Metal

If a homemade baker is made for a bath from a pipe, you will need:

• Wheel discs - 4 pcs.
• Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
• Sheet iron thick 2-3 mm.
• Armature of iron diameter of 8-10 mm or rod.

Construction material

• Brick - 300-350 pcs.
• Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
• Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cubic meters.

Please note: the thrust is created by the discharge, that is, the discharged cold air pulls the warm. Warm air, in turn, tends to up under the action of archimedean power. The thrust depends on the weather: in summer the air warm and humid - thrust, naturally, less, in winter, the opposite is the opposite. The thrust also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing furnace Kamenka

If the pipe is thin, then the gases and warm air by friction about the wall of the pipe will slow down and do not wage the chimney. As a result, it is created smoke plug And smoke goes through the least resistance, i.e. room.

Therefore, when making a metal bath furnace with their own hands, always guide pressure principles, thrust, correctly choosing the size of the chimney and the furnaces. If the tube is wide - Smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the thrust will be bad and very large snapshot of the pipe, it will very often have to be cleaned. Since everything will sow on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting pipe 5-8 m / s.

For the first time, the smokes began to use Romans (3-8 century BC) - famous roman term.

Furnace construction work

So, let's start building a metal bath furnace with their own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the basis for which the design is planned is planned. Despite the fact that the iron furnace for a bath from the pipe weighs a little, the foundation for it is necessary to prepare. It is very important that the iron furnace is installed on an even foundation.

Building foundation

• For the foundation under the furnace, we knock off the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, the height is 20 cm.
• I reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying fittings along and across squares 20x20 cm. Armature in places of connection with each other we associate a knitting wire. She should not lie on Earth, for this we drive into the ground along the edges of the lattice 4 pieces of fittings and tie a grate to them on weight. Before you start filling the foundation, make sure that the lattice is in the middle.
• After filling, withstand the foundation about 2 weeksOpen all the doors and windows in the bath for better ventilation and lay the wet rags on the flooded foundation. This is done so that cracks are not formed when dried. For 2 weeks, we ware on a rag.

Preparation and assembly of the furnace

The iron oven is going:

• Take the rear rim From the wheel, brewing all holes, except the one that in the middle.
• Take the following rim, Cut the convex top, the first rim insert into the second and brew. There should be no holes and cracks, the device must be sealed, after welding, beat the slag and check the welding seam if they did not joke somewhere, we say, check again by beating the slag.

Moments Assembling Furnaces for Bath

Assembling details of the 2nd stove

Here we will make a slight retreat. If you already have a pre-banker, then before installing a new oven, you have to cut the square hole in the wall, because the furnace will start from there - this doors pondered and the furnaces, everything else is in the bath.

Drawing of the inside of the furnace

If you did not have a pre-banker, we will build it together with the stove for the bath. An angle in which the iron furnace is worth it to be covered with a brick wall, this is done in order to fire safetyAfter all, inside the bath is always separated by a tree.

So, we begin to make the stove if there is no experience in chimney or never put a brick, it is better to call the master who will fold you oven for all the rules. But if you want to try yourself, what is good, then it's time to try, and I will tell you how to do it.

• We lay out the base completely from the brick, the second is beginning to stand up already lay out the Asolnik (pissed).

Mine as a roller, pissed

After masonry, the furnace should dry at least 2 weeksIf you flood it right away, then the microcracks will appear, which will break the integrity of the furnace. We open everything pissed and inputs-outputs so that the furnace dried. It is allowed to protrude with small sins for a couple of hours. The furnace is considered dried if on the door of the furnace no moisture And the walls are all dried. You can drive the oven for the complete for prevention, and the furnace is ready for use.

• Now look at the pipe, the figure shows the finished look of the pipe, which is put on the furnace of the furnace.
• The iron furnace Kamenka is right on the body itself, we have it on the pipe, and there is a pot for hot water.

Himself furnace assembly

I note that the design itself will hard enoughSo it can be divided into details and collect indoors. Metal bath oven with their own hands of the original design is ready. If the finish inside is already there - cover from welding at least rubberoid, even though iron sheets.

Attention. We do not forget when welding inside the premises for fire safety needs to have a bucket of water and springs. The spray can be made from an ordinary semi-liter plastic bottle, breaking the hole in the lid. After welding, spray seams and scale.

• Top of chimney (see Metal chimneys) we strengthen two reinforcements for hardness, weld to the pipe and fastened to one wall and to the other. For mounting to the wall, use a corner or plate, welded to fittings and drilled on both sides.
• Drilling brick perforator with a bromide diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep into the anchor, so we turned out stiffness angle and stable design.

View in full: metal furnace for baths do it yourself

The furnace for the metal bath do it yourself with a grid under stones

Other construction furnaces

Metal furnaces for the bath do it yourself there are different forms. Consider the oven collected from the pipe, Its components and assembly scheme. At first glance, the furnace for the bath from the pipe has the most simple device, but there is some tricks and technology design. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the principle of operation of the furnace, thrust and chimney. In all cases, these principles should be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

Bath furnace with their own hands Metal with built-in heater

With an independent embodiment of the design and some original solutions so that you get a metal furnace for a bath with your own hands, follow them, and everything will turn out. Do not forget that for us there is nothing impossible for us, so we will hold, strive and surprise others, improving the skill. Then a built bath oven with his own hands is metallic or just the oven will not be for you unreadable book. The furnace in the photo above is a simple option, since the basis is almost ready - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm, 650 mm long.

From the bottom to cut the hole in length of 335 mm, 180 mm wide, it will be a grain, we welcome the rod or iron strip, from each other about 1 cm. Separately, we produce a box of leaf iron 2-3 mm, in size:

Weld up a box, we clean the slag.

We weld the door to it and will postpone the part on the side. We will deal with 525 pipes, we need to cut plugs, sidewalls on both sides.

• The diameter of the pipe is 525, divided by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
• With the help of a circulation, measuring 262.5, blacks in 2 circles, although it is possible and easier. Attach our workpiece (pipe 525) onto the sheet and just circle it.

If you need to copy several parts, it is always necessary to copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, as the accuracy of the size is lost. If you put the item and cut it out, it is better to make a member once again and make another than copying with the finished.

Metal oven for baths do it yourself with a big stone

While we produce the items, but we will hold the assembly in order. First, make the insides of the furnace and collect them inside the stove itself, all the other details will be alternately imposed and manage.

Top cut two holes. One - for chimney, round, diameter of 110 mm, retreating from the edge of 525 pipes to the middle (chimney 110 pipes 110) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, retreating from the edge of 525 pipes 215 mm, cut the size along 525 pipes 300 mm, across 250 mm. To observe the symmetry of the structure, use Level (vertical, horizontal) or plumb (vertical). For the cut hole, we prepare a niche for stones, cut the parts from the iron sheet of 5 mm.

All the details are welded, make a square box, as shown, we clean from the slag, we scroll the seams with plenty of kerosene and look if there is no leather. We assign a finite detail to the side.

The plumb can be made of any heavy cargo (bolt, nut, pebbles, nail) and any rope, fishing line, threads. But the weight of the cargo should keep ropes, fishing line, stranded stranded. The rest will do the power of gravity, the thread with the driving hanging on it always shows the vertical in perfect form, as well as the water shows the horizontal line.

Metal oven for baths do it yourself: drawings

The next step: Cut from the iron sheet 4-5 mm partition for the furnace mine (shrinks the furnace from the chimney, thereby preventing the rapid heat leakage into the chimney).

Furnace shaft partition

As shown in the figure, measuring from above 180 mm and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will learn only in the course of the work. Measurement can be made using roulette and level. We put the level, mark from the top of 180 mm to the top of the level. For the notes, I will tell you how to do with prickly means, if there is no level, and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it may be a glass, a plastic bottle or any transparent, but a fairly solid object having a base.

From the bottom, we note on the sides of the same distance and put the marker of the mark. Pour water by tags - and now level is ready. We put on the surface we need: water should be in the level with tags, then we will have the level of the horizon.

• Expose Level itself, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, press the level to the pipe so that it is not walking for you, and put inside the label along the edges, marker or chalk. We produce the same procedure from another edge.
• Make frozen From the label to the label.
• Almighty partition On a piece of metal and cut out.
• We take a niche for the stones, insert it into the cooked hole, we make a side of the tapes and turn the pipe (a niche for stones should be below).
• Insert the septum according to the labels made, if everything converges, we begin to brew the partition, if not, we make a mark, where it is not to be converged or interfered with, pulling the partition that mount the grinder. If there are gaps - nothing terrible, it is brewed with electric welding.
• Also breed niche for stones.

So, the bath metal furnace with your own hands is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one, we make a markup for the furnace door, retreating from the bottom of 50 mm, and cut the door to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one refinement: we do the hole in all the edges less than 1 cm. If we have the size of the door 220x320 mm, then cut the hole 210x310 mm. And we cut another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Metal Bath Furnaces With Your Hands with Baki Water Heating

If a manufactured metal furnace in a bath with his own hands has a non-direct exit from the furnace to chimney, but with mines, it is always necessary to make holes for cleaning chimneys if you can't get there. If this is not done, then the precipitation of ash and small particles of the ashes and the Nagar will soon reduce access to the chimney and the oven will begin to smoke. We have or cut through the window, or to cut and brew the pipe constantly.

• First we put the sidewall with the future door, obraw outside. Through the window for the furnace, we weld the partition with the sidewall. We will put the door for the furnace at the last moment. Now we weld another sidewall, which we have without holes, we clean everything with grinding.
• We put the chimney into the cutting hole, we grab, take the level and measure the vertical from two sides is not parallel, but an angle. So that the chimney is not littered. EVERYTHING EQUALLY, IN THE INTIUM MAKE EFFUL FOR THE DROUND.
• Next stage: we put asolnik - Attached from the bottom, closing the gratepoint, and boil it.
• AND completion of the assembly - We weld the doors to the furnace and to the hole for cleaning the chimney, the area has a door. And weld the legs.

It remains to install the stove to the place intended for it. At the same time, the installation is carried out so that the heater is not located in the furnace, but outside, which makes it difficult to heat the stones. Stones will be warm up much longer than usual But the effect will still be. Stone stones better use marine, they heat up faster, they hold warm longer, with the content of salt and iodine in them favorably affect the body. Very important detail. If you are made with your own hands an iron furnace for a bath, then you need to install it so that the floor is under the confusion from tin or tile, in general from non-flammable material.

• Bath furnace with your own metal hands: assembly

  
  Step-by-step guide to assembling oven for the bath with your own hands. Materials and tools required for work. Detailed phased description of actions

Metal bath oven do it yourself

The types of furnace equipment are abounding: someone prefers a brick stone folded by a professional master, and someone souls the metal oven with his own hands.

The latter option is economical, as it can be made of submitted materials with their own hands.

Advantages of the aggregate

You can highlight the following main positive moments which are endowed with a metal furnace for a bath:

• compactness, small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
• No need to build a special massive foundation. For such a stove, the facilitated type of base is suitable. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
• In a metal bath, you can maintain a permanent combustion process, which allows you to keep the temperature on a given value over the entire bath procedure.
• Economical option of furnace equipment, the ability to fulfill the construction of materials available.

Disadvantages of a metal bath oven

Despite the presence of positive sides, the metal furnace for the bath has its own minuses :

1. very quickly cool, because there is no property of the accumulation of thermal energy. In order to keep a high temperature in the bath, you need to maintain a permanent combustion process.
2. low ability to heat a large room;
3. the need to ensure special protection from the fire situation, as the fire safety of the metal design is low. It is recommended to install additional body cover.

Metal bath furnace selection

Many people will seem such a parameter as a form of construction, insignificant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment, convenience when using it during operation. The oven aggregate happens:

The latter view is the most common, convenient to use. With such a configuration, the furnace has angular zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many believe that in a rectangular design, the shape is best maintained, the frame of the furnace.

The shape of the furnace also affects the uniformity of heating both the design itself and heated room. With the maximum heating of one element of the equipment, a decrease in the heating of the other is reduced. This, in turn, ensures the uniformity of the heating of the room, the steady balance of heat flows.

The correct heating of the design affects its mechanical stability. So, a round or cylindrical furnace is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heating, so it makes more dense walls. A rectangular furnace is considered to be resistant to heating, as it has cold corners.

Options for furnace facilities made with your own hands

Metal bath ovens, one might say, have a long history, so for such a long period, the craftsmen developed and proposed various types of performance.

The easiest option is a metal furnace-heater, made of an iron barrel. For this, the bar is cut off the bottom and the lid, the result is a cylinder. In this cylinder, up to half, load bricks put on the edge. From above, the grate grille is stacked on them. The remaining half of the barrel on the 2/3 parts is filled with stones. After that, the chimney is removed and installed on the furnace cover. This method of manufacturing a furnace, though simple, but inconvenient to use.

For a small bath area, you can build a furnace-chain of a compact size using leaf steel. The inner surface of such a design is laid out by brick. The furnace, its walls lay out in the Pollockich, chimney - in one quarter. This type of oven is easy to make, use in work. To warm out the room, it will take some fuel raw materials. Comfortable room temperature will be provided after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whatever execution option is selected, the following material will be prepared:

• sheet steel whose thickness is at least 8 mm;
• metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• rod with a thickness of 10 mm;
• cooper
• lumps and doors for the furnace chamber, Kamenka and pondered;
• water crane;
• two meters of pipe. Of these, 90 cm will go to the furnace, 60 cm - on the tank, and 50 cm - on the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, the doors for structural elements can be made independently.

Concerning toolsIn the work we will use the grinder and welding machine.

Option 1: Chimney with a closed type of heater

In this form of the structure it is assumed closed view of the Kamenka, Therefore, to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

This design, like a metal furnace for a bath with your own hands, has the following steps:

• we take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut out the opening in it for pondered. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
• Inside the pipe from the side of the opening, we weld the fastenings for the grate, using any metal plate with eyelashes.
• Go to the arrangement of the furnace: we cut the opening of 25x20 cm, we weld fastening for rods of the heater. We use the rods, 1 cm in diameter, or specially selling grate with a round configuration furnace.
• On the opposite wall of the heaters, the hole is cut through which steam is served.
• Fill the stones with stones suitable for this type of design. Good properties combined with a metal surface, has talco chlorite, diabases, eliminate flint, granite, droil-containing stones.
• In the cover for the oven cut the hole under the chimney pipe and install it.

This is completed on this process of manufacture of furnace design. But still the masters are offered to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, take a piece of pipe, large diameter, and we screw the water crane. We prepare the cover for the tank with water: take the lid of the desired size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part cut out the opening for the chimney, and then weld it on the tank. Considerate the second part removable, so we weld the loop and handle to it.

Option 2: oven with open type of heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet is easy and easy to build such an aggregate. His the design is a pipe separated by two compartments using a grate grid. The upper compartment is a firebox, the lower right performs the role of the ash bar-pissed. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which the fuel can be lined up, to provide air supply, remove combustion products.

In the far, shoved end of the pipe, weld the flue of the chimney, its diameter is 100 mm.

On top of the cylindrical housing we weld the metal box, which is filled with stones. The curved knee of the chimney allows to ensure maximum heating of the stones, since it increases the contacting surface of the hot tube with a heater.

The described version of the furnace facility is easy to perform in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, you will need for the workpieces of metal sheets, not a pipe.

As a rule, for such a stove, the presence of a water tank. In a rectangular furnace ways of placement of tank Many, just a few:

• can be done on any of the parties;
• attach from above;
• perform a water shirt in several parties;
• drop pipes for the flow of cold and fence hot water.

A convenient way to obtain hot water is the installation of a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. Such a water heater can be made both yourself and buy a finished factory, which has a standard size and diameter tube. In the latter case, the tank is crashed into the chimney, its vertical part over the furnace case, and pipes for feeding and water fence are connected. Such a tank with a sufficient volume can perform the function of the water tank or simply to be a heat exchanger connected to the main container under water.

Option 3: Open-type metal furnace with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complicated, but it is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

This design is metal housing with inner brick masonry. At the same time, the requirements for the thickness of steel are reduced: you can take a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. For brickwork, refractory brick from the chamot will be required, solution. A special ready-made dry mixture is suitable as a solution. It is mixed with the requirements of the instructions for use.

Metal oven for the bath with their own hands has the following manufacturing technology:

1. We prepare the foundation: We weld the legs and tapens to it. This will make a stove construction stable.

Metal bath furnace diagram with an additional brick wall

• We post on this base the first solid brick series. For the remaining rows, we adhere to the following parameters: near the furnace we are placed in Polkirpich, in the area of \u200b\u200bchimney channels - a quarter.
• When will be ready the camera pondered, install copyright from cast iron , placing it between the furnace and the ashbar. For the design of openings under the loading window and confused, it is possible to use metal corners, 20 x 20 size. It is important to monitor the smaller of the rank seams.
• Over the heat chamber metal bars , the diameter of which is 12 mm. We will put stones on this grid then.
• When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave on the right or left to the left right. We will load stones in it, get them for cleaning, and also in this window during the bath procedure splash with water for vaporization.
• Chimney channel It is advisable to make winding. This will ensure the maximum heating of the entire furnace corps and the full combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns upstairs, from the back, we create an audit window. In it, mount the valve, allowing you to save it for a long time after the end of the furnace process.
• The upper two rows of bricks are laying solid, leaving earl for mounting chimney pipe Through which combustion products will be output.
• After you have finished brickwork, we give time the solution to grab, dry. After that, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal case. In our situation, this corps resembles a kind of case. Corner, 20 x 20, broken by joints, makes it easier for welders, make sealant seams.
• Performing the workpiece front wall , do not forget to cut the openings under the ashpan and the boot chamber of firebox. We establish the front wall in place, weld the hinges for the doors. The door canvases are wider than 10 mm on each side than the prepared openings - this will provide a density when closing. You can pave an asbestos seal around the door perimeter or throughout its inner surface.
• In the workpiece of the side wall we also provide for the opening for a brickwork prepared in brickwork pair formation windows . We set a metal door with a sealing material for this. It is desirable to make it open down, put a cold handle for opening during a bath procedure when there is a need for a sacrificent steam.
• On the furnace cover cut out chimney , the field of which we screw the lid into place. Next, install chimney channel and boil it.
• We establish a metal furnace for the bath with your own hands on the selected place and load the stones.

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

• install a metal bath furnace with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the bath;
• the construction must be in close proximity to the chimney;
• performing a special foundation, bases from refractory materials for placing furnace;
• the wall of the room, near the metal furnace for a bath, should be separated by a leaf refractory material.

Metal oven for baths do it yourself: drawings photo

Bath furnace made of metal: advantages and disadvantages, drawings, photos, 3 options for the manufacture of metal aggregate with their own hands. Video instruction.

An independent construction of a bath furnace is not the simplest, but a fully feasible event that requires a thorough preparation and a well-thought-out approach. After reading the information below, you will learn about the important nuances of the bath furnace design, as well as consider the key stages of the construction of a brick design.

The bath furnace can have different dimensions selected mainly in accordance with the area of \u200b\u200bthe served room. The most common furnaces that have a base with dimensions of 890x1020 mm (3.5x4 bricks) or 1020x1290 mm (4x5 bricks) and a height without taking into account the chimney pipe 168 cm or 210 cm, respectively. The second option is better suitable for pyligs with increased ceiling height.

The most preferred embodiment of the brick furnace for the bath is a model with water circuit (tank for water heating). It does not make sense to bring a lot of projects - they are almost identical, only the location of the tank is changing to heat the water. The most popular options are a brick oven with the lower tank location and the brick oven for the bath with the top installation of the tank.

In the following images, the schemes of a brick oven with the lower placement of the water tank are shown.

Schemes of a brick oven with the lower placement of the water tank

Schemes of a brick oven with the lower placement of the water tank (order)

The following images clearly demonstrate a brick furnace design for a bath with a tank placement at the top.

We make a project safe: basic provisions

Before you begin to study further information on the construction of the bath furnace, it is necessary to consider and remember the key states of safety, the violation of which can lead to extremely unfavorable consequences.

Traditionally, the oven is erected near the wall opposite to the shelves in the steam room. The project of the furnace should be created so that between the warm parts of the finished unit and everything that supports combustion, the minimum of the 30-40-centimeter is respected. If special protection is equipped, for example, from asbestos cardboard, this indicator can be reduced to 15-20 cm.

Using the heat insulator during the construction of the furnace - an example

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestous Cardboard

Between the chimney pipe and elements of overlaps / roofs and, which come into contact with it, the gap should be observed subsequently with refractory material. Most often, asbestos are used to protect. From above, the mentioned clearance was insulated with a steel curly overlay.

For additional protection, the floor section in front of the furnace firebox is covered with a metal sheet thick of about 10 mm. It will ensure the protection of the material manufacturing material from fire in the event that coals fall out of the furnace.

The standard embodiment of the furnace in the bath space is shown in the following image. Here you can see the order of organizing a water circuit, which can be taken as a basis if the supply of warm water will be provided by the forces of the furnace unit, as well as the features of the connection and output of the chimney.

What to build a furnace?

A set for self-erection of a brick bath includes the following positions:

• brick;
• clay for making a masonry solution (also need sand);
• capacity for the preparation of the solution;
• tools for marking (pencil, rope, square, roulette, etc.) and masonry (Kelma, Kirk, Kiyanka, etc.);
• insulation materials (rubberoid, asbestos);
• elements for the manufacture of a water tank and the chimney pipe (if their independent assembly is planned, but the purchase of finished aggregates is much more favorable in terms of temporary and labor costs).

Separate attention is deserved by the question of choosing bricks for masonry. The strength of this material must first of all be higher compared to ordinary white or red brick. An ideal option is a chammetic brick with the highest refractory properties.

According to key operational characteristics, chamotte clay brick is noticeably superior to the nearest "fellow", but it is much more expensive. In view of this, in order for the outcomes for the construction of a bath furnace to be preserved within reasonable limits, chamoten bricks are used to masonry areas exposed to the strongest heating.

Prices for chammatory brick

chamotted brick

In places hesitating to more modest indicators, it is advisable to use a full-length red brick designed to perform the work under consideration.

For example, from such bricks you can lay out the outer walls, smoke-rotations, various decorative elements, and the like.

Important! You can distinguish a full-length ceramic brick on marking in the form of the letter "M" and related numbers indicating the limit load value by 1 cm2. For masonry of a brick furnace, the material of the brand is not less than M-150.

You can distinguish a real high-quality furnace brick on 3 key features.

Video - Choice of bricks for masonry oven

What solution to use for masonry?

The laying of brick bath furnaces is traditionally performed on a clay solution. Best of all, if a variety of clay is used for its preparation, the basis of the brick used, i.e. Red or chamotte. In this case, the brick and laying will give the same temperature expansion in the heating process, which will ensure the maximum long term of the finished building.

Helpful advice! It has been established that the more subtle the masonry seam is made, the higher the result of the furnace is obtained. However, it is also necessary to approach the consideration of this issue.

In addition to clay, the solution is included in the solution. It must be pre-samoving it in order to in the solution in the end material with sand-sizes of no more than 1-1.5 mm. The millimeter value is most preferable. It is also important that the sand does not have or inclusions and was homogeneous. Use the sieve of the corresponding fractions to sieve.

Separate requirements are also presented to water, also used in the process of preparing a masonry solution. First of all, it should be clean, contain the minimum possible amount of mineral inclusions, not to have a shaft smell. On the laying of 100 bricks take about 15-20 liters of water.

Before preparing a solution, clay must be put in any suitable capacity (for example, large pelvis), grind and pour clean water in such a quantity so that the result is the most homogeneous mass, not too thick and not very liquid. Mix the solution thoroughly formed lumps. Leave the mixture of clay and water for a day, after which it is strain, and the lumps formed scroll through the sieve.

Sand in the cooked solution is introduced last. On average, a liter sand can be added to the water bucket, but this moment must be carefully monitored, because The amount of river sand in the solution directly affects the fat content of the latter. In addition, the required amount of sand may vary depending on the initial fat content of clay. If the mixture for masonry is too fat, the furnace can simply collapse during operation. The same (low-fat) solution will not allow the desired quality of the clutch of bricks, as a result of which the already considered scenario will repeat.

It is possible to determine the fatty clay in handicrafts in handicrafts with several simple ways.

Take 500 g clay and mix it with water. It is best to perform it manually to obtain a mixture having a homogeneous consistency and not sticking to the hands.

Important! For laying a bath furnace, an exclusively medium fatty solution can be used.

Shot from the previously cooked ball in the sizes of a small apple. Put the molded product on any flat solid surface and carefully press it on it. Press enough slowly to work out the fracture formation.

If the clay ball collapsed without the formation of cracks, the clay is low-fat. The appearance of a crack size of half diameter indicates too high fatty clay. In the case of a solution of normal fat, the crack will take about 0.2 diameters of the clay ball.

Preparation of a furnace solution - Tips

Video - Preparation of a mortar for masonry

Ban Furnace Connection

Regardless of the selected configuration of the brick bath, the order of its construction remains identical for all situations: from the foundation to the arrangement of the chimney pipe and finishing finish. In the following table, you can familiarize yourself with important information about each stage of the event under consideration.

Table. The procedure for building a bath oven

Stage of work	Description
	There are several types of foundations for a bath oven. You are offered the most optimal and popular option. Make the following: - Selate the platform for the future foundation by knocking down the pegs in the corners and around the perimeter of the core base, and stretching the rope between them so that it was easier to navigate. Pick the dimensions in accordance with the design dimensions of the furnace base; - Having dropped a depth of about 60 cm. At the same time, the lower 10-15 cm expand with respect to the main part of the pits by 5-10 cm in each direction. After concreting, a similar platform will provide higher durability of the entire design to the soil motion; - plump the lower extended part of the pit and sink, shedding it with water for a better seal; - full of sand pour a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone or broken bricks and also sink; - Mount the formwork along the contours of the pit. For its assembly, use wooden boards and screws; - To put the reinforcing grid in the pit. For its assembly, it is optimal to use steel rods with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm. The rods are binding to the grid with cells 15x15 cm. In places of intersection, the armature is fastened with knitting wire or special modern locks, which is more convenient. An approximately 5-centimeter clearance is maintained between the walls of the pit and the reinforcement grid. A similar gap must be withstanding between the bottom of the pit and the reinforcing grid. It is most convenient to do this with the help of special stand fixtors; - In the pit, fill the concrete solution prepared from 1 grade 1 of the cement (from M400), 3 pieces of pure sand, 4-5 fractions of rubbing and water in an amount corresponding to about half of the cement mass. Concrete is poured by a uniform layer in such a height so that the fill of about 150 mm does not reach the ground surface on the site. Be sure to align the "top" fill in the level; - Let the fill stand for 3-5 days (better than 7-10) for a durability and dismantle the formwork. Formed voids fill in the rammed small gravel; - The frozen concrete platform cover the molten bitumen and to maintain the rubberoid layer on top, thoroughly roll it up and pressing to the binder. Then repeat the procedure again. The resulting two-layer waterproofing will ensure reliable protection of the brick furnace from the soil moisture. The previously mentioned 15-centimeter gap between the upper edge of the foundation and the surface of the soil will be leveled by means of a starting solid row of bricks.
	Detailed recommendations for this stage were previously brought.
	The laying of the bath furnace is performed in accordance with the pre-prepared order - the main component of the project of the unit under consideration. A step-by-step consequence of the brick furnace will be reviewed later in the relevant section. The arrangement of additional elements (in this case is the chimney, because the water tank will be asked to make the built-in) depends on the characteristics of a particular project and in each case it is considered individually.
	Fully laid out, you can not immediately enter into permanent operation: the device must be given time for burning. During the drying period, the doors and windows in the room should be open - the furnace will dry faster. 4-5 days after the completion of the masonry of the furnace, it can be started to trample with small chips for a maximum of 10-15 minutes daily. The furnace is performed 1 time per day. The protruding condensate indicates that the unit is not yet completely dry.
	At the request of the owner, the finish finish can be performed. There are a lot of options. The most popular are the following: - cladding with tiles (clinker, majolica, terracotta or marble). One of the most popular options. It has a relatively low cost and simplicity of implementation; - cladding brick; - Stone finish. Well fit porcelain stoneware, granite, marble or snake; - Walking. The original Russian method, which is part-time the most elementary and budget; - Facing with tiles. The laborious method of finishing, allowing to receive truly unique design compositions.

Video - Construction of a bath oven

Draft bath furnace: Step-by-step order

As an example, the procedure for the construction of a furnace has been considered, equipped with a built-in tank for water. The design dimensions at the base are quite impressive - 1020x1290 mm (corresponds to the 4x5 bricks masonry), height is 2100 mm. At the request, the owner can change the dimensions in accordance with the conditions and characteristics of the steam room. Design image of the extraction design is presented below.

The furnace with the specified constructive sizes will provide in the space of up to 10-14 m2 temperature indicators at the level of order of 45-50 degrees during the washing process and up to 100 degrees and higher during the guar. One furnace of such a furnace will be enough so that in the bath could be comfortable and thoroughly wash up to 10-12 visitors. The volume of the mounted tank (on the above scheme is visible on the edge of the right) - about 180 liters.

To improve the quality of heating and placing stones over the fuel chamber of the furnace, the pipes are placed in an amount of 6 pieces (visible next to the water tank) with a diameter of 50 mm. The length of the laid pipes specifically for this project is 1050 mm. The mounted pipes are strongly heated during the furnace process and continue to transmit heat energy for some time even after the furnace is complete.

Above the stones is a double-skinned door. Through the opening closed by it, water is amenable to water, thanks to which pairs are formed.

We proceed directly to the study of the project order.

Table. Brick cooker

Stage of work	Description
	As noted, it is done with solid and any essential features does not have. The scheme directly laying bricks is shown in the image.
	At this stage, the formation of an ash chamber begins (sizes and location are shown on the image) and the corresponding door is installed (highlighted in the red scheme). Important! The dimensions of the hole intended for installation of the door should be 5 mm to exceed the dimensions of the mounted frame for each of the sides. Fastening this, as well as other door in the furnace is performed like this: - asbestos cord is inserted into the prepared hole and is embedded with a solution for masonry. There will be enough cord with a diameter of 0.5 cm; - With 4 sides, the door frame is equipped with a wire with a wire, pre-retinable from 3-4 rods of 10-12 cm long. 10-centimeter wire cuts with a diameter of about 0.5 cm are attached; - Prepared design is inserted into the hole along the masonry and fixed with the solution. Wired wire lined in the masonry provides reliable and high-quality fixation of the door.
	The masonry of the ash chamber continues.
	From refractory brick (on the scheme - yellow), the base of the fuel is laid out and 2 grate grilles are installed. Installing the lattice is performed in specially cut for this groove.
	The formation of the direct fuel chamber begins. The camera is completely lining with refractory brick.
	The fuel chamber door is installed.
	The fuel chamber laying continues.
	Actions are similar to the 7th row.
	Floor chamber door overlaps.
	Each of the side walls is laid fourths of refractory bricks. Earls are formed between bricks, the sizes of which should allow the pipes mentioned earlier. At the same stage, the place for installing a water tank is prepared in the places indicated in the scheme.
	On the same row, the previously mentioned pipes are stacked between the quarters of refractory bricks. Holes around the pipes are easiest to close basalt cardboard.
	Also, a tank for water is also installed on the 10th row.
	On this and the following images, the water tank is not displayed so that the facilities of the masonry can be better visible, although the container should be present. Located earlier pipes overlap the usual (not chamotant) brick.
	The furnace array rises above.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one. In this image, a water tank is visible. The selected space over the pipes is filled with cobblestone.
	Over the water tank, 2 steel strips are stacked (placement and dimensional ratio can be estimated in the diagram) so that it can be closed with brick.
	Water tank overlaps. The designated space is left free. In the future, water will be born through this opening on cobblestones.
	The construction of the furnace array is continuing, similar to the previous row.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	The laying is carried out similarly to the previous row. The diagram is shown with the door installed for the opening, through which water will be given in. In general, the installation of this door was necessary to perform earlier - when laying a row, designated by red lines. On the door diagram did not show that the principle of laying is better understood. For overlapping the door from above, 2 steel stripes are stacked - the reception is already familiar to you at the previous stages of performance.
	Overlapping the door. Preparations begins for overlapping the furnace. The space to be overlaid is quite large. To successfully cope with this stage of work, it will be necessary to lay 2 steel strips. The thickness of the strips is quite large - about 1 cm. For their laying in bricks, the depresses are cut (marked in the diagram). Under the strips it is desirable to put gaskets from basalt cardboard.
	The mentioned strips are stacked with 1-2-millimeter gaps (marked in the scheme), due to which the temperature expansions of the metal will be compensated during the furnace.
	The oven is performed. At this stage, you need to leave a hole for installing the chimney pipe (marked in the image). On the hole, the landing place is placed to install the smoke valve, which is also visible in the diagram.
	At the same stage, the flushing valve installation is performed.
	The arrangement of the oven overlap continues.
	Similar to the previous one.
	The formation of the chimney pipe begins.
	The formation of the pipe continues. Next, the laying is carried out in a similar sequence before the pipe output on the project height (it is determined individually, in accordance with the characteristics of a particular room).

The masonry is completed. The principle of action of such an oven is extremely simple: when burning fuel, hot gases heat the walls of the furnace and the water boiler, installed inside the design, pass through the laid pipes and the stone backfill placed on top of them, and then go into the chimney.

Video - Brick Bath Furnaces Projects

From a long time, a brick oven in a bath, which could not be found in his own home was specially popular in Russia, which could not be found in his own home. In the past few years, the baths literally experience the moment of incredible rebirth.

First of all, this, of course, has the fact that more and more people refuse to accommodate in apartment buildings and are increasingly choosing in favor of individual construction. That is why the question of how to build a bass oven is becoming more and more popular every year.

If you can competently plan the construction process, then you will be able to build your own bath in a short time, and add a special atmosphere of cheerfulness and health to your home.

Process preparation

All you need in order to independently build a bath on your site is literally minimal construction skills and a little patience. The first thing that is worth starting is to choose the drawings of the furnace for the baths of your dreams.

In most cases, the furnace in the steam room is in such a way that one part of the structure is responsible for maintaining the level of heat in the pre-banker, and the other is for heating directly pair space.

If we talk about the material that it is worth choosing for the building is also at the very beginning, in principle most builders agree that it is possible to apply those remnants of materials that were not used during the main construction site.

The construction process will go much faster in the case when all the necessary tools are prepared in advance.

It is best to stand up to the right side of the furnace, as well as the level, a bucket in which there will be a solution and a hammer.

To the left of the furnace, as a rule, placed a bucket with clean water and necessarily another bucket with a scroll for garbage, as well as pliers and an ordinary pencil, which will necessarily need during the simplicity of different marks.

For the oven necessarily needed a pit. It is worth paying special attention to its size, namely depth, which should be no less than 0.7 m.

The bottom of the pit, according to the rules, should be covered in about twenty centimeters of sand. After that, sand is closed with rubble and broken brick.

Next, it is necessary to provide a reinforced frame with a formwork in the pit. From above, the entire surface must be filled with concrete. Look at the photo of the stove for the bath and you will see that there are usually no more than twenty centimeters.

The last two layers of the foundation are already as the main waterproofing material. After the foundation is completely ready, it is mandatory to be checked on horizontal.

If any disadvantages do, they can simply be easy to eliminate using the arms of flaws. After the work performed, you can gradually move to the construction of the bath itself.

The importance of the chimney canal

Special attention during the decrease in the chimney is very important to devote to the general parameters of the structure. In the event that a homemade oven for a metal bath turned out to be quite small, then it is not worth the pipe to do too massive.

Approximately thickness of the walls is in practice about half of the brick. It is desirable that the cross-section of flue passages was the same size.

Final stage

It is very important after the installation is completed, but before use, how to dry the bath oven. It is accepted for these purposes to use one way:

Note!

• Forced;
• Natural.

The most preferable, according to builders, is the second option, but it is necessary to prepare in advance for additional temporary costs.

Using this method, it will be possible to be sure that the furnace will act as evenly as possible, and no crack is formed.

Remember that if you comply with all the tips, data from builders, then without any difficulties you can build a bath rather quickly exclusively.

Do not forget in advance just make sure that you are ready for the necessary financial costs.

Photo furnace for baths do it yourself

Note!

Note!