How to properly prune flowers in the fall. Pruning plants. How to prune plants correctly. Why do you need to form a crown of indoor flowers

Pruning potted vegetation is one aspect of maintaining them. But this procedure is also very individual. Some flowers should not be touched at all, while others need to be cut regularly. Cutting different parts of the vegetation has its own goals: removing yellowed leaves, dried shoots, creating a certain shape for the plant, promoting bushiness, or profuse flowering, or simply for rejuvenation purposes. Pruning is an essential part of the life of most flowers. This action is simple, but you should remember about the approach to each individual type of vegetation and the general rules.

Pruning indoor plants

Varieties of pruning home flowers

The pruning procedure is optional, and you can do without it, but as practice shows, most vegetation still needs it. Thanks to this, a decorative and attractive appearance is achieved, health is maintained, metabolism is properly distributed, the flower as a whole looks well-groomed and neat, the necessary balance is maintained between all parts of the vegetation. By doing such simple manipulations, we help our green favorites to reveal their natural beauty.

There are several types of cropping potted flowers, depending on what goal you set for yourself:

sanitary removal, removal of excess shoots and leaves;
panning and pinching;
decoration of the crown of vegetation;
cuts for the purpose of rejuvenating the flower.

One type of plant needs a single type of pruning, while another requires all of the above. But you don't need to do everything at once. Perform only the procedures that are necessary at the moment.

Making a cut of green pets correctly

Before proceeding with this procedure, it is necessary to study the preferences of each flower separately, and then proceed based on their preferences. Some species can die even from a simple shortening of the stem. Other specimens respond very well even to very frequent clipping. In addition to viewing information on potted crops, it is also necessary to inspect the flowers themselves, for damage, dead shoots, whether growth and development are going well. All this will help determine what degree of pruning is required and to what extent.

It is necessary to study the preferences of each flower separately.

Systematic circumcision will help simplify all care activities. Care must be taken to avoid the need for slices. It is necessary to constantly maintain regularly decorativeness and ideal shape, to prevent overgrowth or, conversely, to completely discard the foliage. All timely procedures can get rid of difficult pinching. Removal for sanitary purposes is carried out every year, during the period of active growth, and then as necessary, in order to maintain the vegetation in proper condition. There is no need to carry out a rejuvenating haircut separately; this procedure is carried out in conjunction with other cleanings in an emergency or systematically.

In order to correctly perform the removal steps, you need to follow some rules that can be correlated with the norms for garden vegetation. The general and main task is to take all the necessary measures to maintain the health of flowers.

The main norms for cutting pot crops:

The instruments with which you carry out the procedures must be well sharpened. No need to expose green pets to additional stress;
Hygiene is important when caring for pets: clean hands, tools and surfaces. Disinfection of the tool is required before proceeding with the removal of parts of the plant. In addition, you should be most careful when working with very sensitive flowers and with indoor poisonous specimens. Protect the skin of the hands, as well as the surface and protect the plants themselves;
Plan for separate pruning and transplanting activities, although it is recommended for a large number of vegetation varieties to do these activities together. But this is not worth doing, because the flower must adapt after the transplant in order to be ready for cutting. In fact, this is a lot of stress for all vegetation, it is harmful, so leave time for rest. There is no sense for risk, because otherwise you will destroy the plant, and such sacrifices are not needed at all;
Slicing should be done correctly, it is done at an angle, above the level of the kidneys, remember this rule. If you decide to completely remove the stem, then this is done at the base, at ground level or at the point of branching. A partial cut should be made 3-7 mm above the kidney. Carry out a careful examination of the kidney, they will tell you how to correctly orient the growth of green pets - up or to the sides. There is also a rule that potted vegetation is cut in such a way that new stems will begin to grow outward, and not inside the bush, which means that the cut must be made from the bud;
There is no definite time interval when it is necessary to cut a plant, for this you need to take into account many different factors, but the most important is the individual needs of an individual specimen. In general, this procedure is carried out in the spring, or in the active stage of growth, since the upcoming summer period will give strength after dramatic changes. But this rule works, again, taking into account the age of the flower and the stage of its development.
During a haircut, stop periodically and look at the result from the side. This activity is fun and can be overdone. Therefore, if you want to form the crown of a flower, get distracted, step back, evaluate where you need to cut and start working further, but with interruptions.

Read also:

Cracks and spots on orchid leaves: what to do

During a haircut, stop periodically and look at the result from the side

Another important point in cutting off parts of vegetation is the processing of the removal site. After all, all mechanical manipulations undermine immunity and weaken vital activity. That is why the treatment of wounds and their disinfection is important. You will need the appropriate ready-made preparations in the form of balsams, powders, which cover the cut line on garden, greenhouse and home crops. Folk remedies are also effective, for example, crushed coal, sulfur. The wound should be covered completely, without gaps. It is optimal to carry out processing twice or more, as needed. If we give a lot of juice to the plant with such damage, you need to give it time to dry out a little.

After you've done your pruning, allow time to adapt to the new condition. To do this, create easy conditions for them to recover: protect from heat, direct sunlight, monitor the humidity of the air. Water the flowers carefully and in moderation, extremes in this state are not needed, adhere to the recommended standards for the type. Provide the soil with complementary foods, this will speed up the process, but only after it resumes growth again, and if there has not been a transplant to another container with a change of soil for a long time.

What tools to choose for removal

In any case, pruning should be done with extremely sharp and sterile devices. You can use a garden knife if the branches are thin and small, but you can also use ordinary knives, including a clerical one. For fine work, it is better to give preference to a blade or scalpel. But in most cases, scissors are used to adjust the length of the shoots or remove excess leaves of vegetation. But ordinary scissors: office or kitchen scissors can cause irreparable harm to plants. Therefore, pinching is best done with tools. If you decide to simply form a decorative crown of a flower culture, then it is better to use a special bonsai tool, or narrow small scissors. If the plants are fleshy or partially woody, it is better to use a well-sharpened garden pruner or similar, but smaller tool, especially for home flowers.

Pruning should be done with extremely sharp and sterile devices.

Such a not tricky set of devices such as pruners and scissors is universal and suitable for specialized care for types of different massiveness.

Any instrument you use for this procedure must be systematically sharpened and disinfected. A blunt object will tear the tissue of vegetation, which is not permissible, since healing can last for a very long time, which in turn threatens to be highly susceptible to disease. It is necessary to disinfect devices after each plant in order to exclude the transfer of harmful microbes from one specimen to another. The best way to handle it is to wipe it with alcohol, then put it in boiling water.

Sanitary removal

Absolutely all specimens growing at home, including those with reduced stems, go through this procedure. The simplified name is stripping, since dried, dead shoots and leaves are removed. These are measures necessary to maintain the health and strengthen the immunity of flower crops, as well as prevent the appearance and spread of infections and harmful insects.

Read also:

Growth stimulator for flowers

What can be achieved with this procedure:

the stems that grow incorrectly inward, lifeless, weak, damaged or dead, are removed;
the crown is freed from dry and yellowed leaves;
dry buds and obsolete peduncles are removed.

There are no exact criteria for carrying out sanitary cuts. The dried parts of the vegetation are removed at the base, if not completely damaged, then the dead sections of the stem are removed so that intact tissues remain. Weak shoots are removed, the leaves scorched by the sun's rays are also cut off completely, dry edges must also be removed, only a small dry part remains in front of the healthy part of the leaf plate. The buds and inflorescences are removed to the level of the upper leaves, or to the base.

Vegetation cleaning is carried out after a period of complete dormancy, when the growing season begins. Removal is done throughout the season, if necessary, and during active flowering and foliage shedding, if the plant belongs to this species.

The method of sanitary pruning is accompanied by the removal of the top layer of soil, fallen, yellowed and dry foliage and the mandatory removal of all plant residues. If the soil is unusable or heavily clogged, then it is worth removing all of its free part and replacing the substrate around the lump of the root system with a fresh one.

Pinching (pinching)

Suspension deletions are very simple. Removal of growth points and shortening of shoots are carried out throughout the active growing season in order to limit the plant from abundant growth, promote the growth of extreme branches, as well as strengthen and prolong flowering. All of the above effects are reduced to two trivial operations - removing the tops of the shoots and thinning the buds. These manipulations are the simplest and easiest, they are able to form crowns and restrain vegetation.

Suspension deletions are very simple

Pinching with your fingers is aimed at removing growth points, upper foliage, as well as the upper part of the stem of cactus or succulents. And if you remove 2 parts from each Decembrist stem after the flowering period, you will get a more saturated color the next time it blooms. The same procedures with deciduous representatives will give the result in the form of dense growth of one plant. Pinching of buds is needed for large-flowering specimens, it is required in order to reduce the number, to achieve good flowering quality in the remaining buds. All this is necessary to maintain decorativeness and naturalness.

Tasks performed when using armor:

when removing the upper points of growth, the development and growth of young and productive stems is stimulated;
usual, non-traumatic for vegetation, manipulations thicken flower crowns;
you can control the direction of growth, if desired, shaping it vertically or horizontally.

Shortening has some differences from the pinching method. In this case, not only the top of the shoot is subject to removal, but the entire personal part of the plant, which has grown strongly upward. By removing 1/3 or 1/2 of the entire length, the specimen stops stretching and redistributes forces. This way you can keep compact dimensions. This technique works well for indoor vines.

Pruning that forms the crown of indoor flowers

Formation is used to ennoble all perennial varieties of bushes, trees, which, with the help of this manipulation, are given a compact, austere or refined appearance. If you need density or maintain the desired size, sticking to the shape is the goal, the direction of which you choose based on personal preference.

Formative pruning performs several tasks at once:

activation for the growth of young and extreme stems;
stimulation of abundant flowering;
adjustment of height and shape, removal of unnecessarily long, unproductive branches and few leaves;
giving a certain shape to the crown, maintaining decorativeness and attractiveness;
independent giving the deciduous mass a strict form: a ball, a square, a pyramid and others;
correction of large potted flowers;
adhering to one specific silhouette;
giving the vegetation density and splendor.

All these maintenance measures are aimed at maintaining the health of potted crops and giving them an individual style that suits the taste of the owners and their interior.

Care measures are aimed at maintaining the health of potted crops

It is optimal to carry out formative cutting with the arrival of spring, when the first signs of vegetation appear, or after it has passed, when the stage of complete dormancy begins. For crops with a flowering period, this method is carried out after flowering. Removing all obsolete peduncles, yellowed and dried parts of flowers, thereby creating the necessary volume, size and silhouette, activating the growth of stems, which will give a lush color in the next season. But you need to take the natural needs of plants as a basis:

if flowering occurs on young stems, then pruning should be done at the beginning of the growing season;
if the vegetation blooms on the branches of the last season, the formation is not carried out, the peduncles are cut to the first leaves;
pronounced flowers need to be regularly rejuvenated by cutting after flowering.

And that with such care, the plants will look attractive for as long as you like. At the same time, they present their green pets to grow as they please, and because of this, a ficus or lemon gets an ugly asymmetrical crown with long sloping shoots or with many thin trunks. In balsams and tradescantia, the lower part of the shoots is bare, and the dried shoots of cyperus or asparagus, generously mixed with green ones, give the impression of a haystack rather than a decorative composition.
It's all about the lack of pruning.

Pruning of plants is undertaken in three main cases.:

Sanitary pruning of plants

All yellowed, shrunken shoots and leaves that have lost their decorative effect should be cut off immediately. Weakened old shoots are often easy prey for fungi and bacteria, and a haven and breeding ground for insect pests. In addition, an unhealthy appearance of an escape may not indicate old age, but about illness or pest damage. If you do not remove it in time, the disease will spread to healthy parts of the plant, which once again proves the need for sanitary pruning.
The basic rule is to remove all unhealthy or aged parts of the plant. You need to cut the shoot up to healthy tissue (or - if the shoot starts underground - remove it to the very base).

Rejuvenating plant pruning

It is especially suitable for those plants that can develop long shoots that lose their leaves over time, or are exposed from heat or dry air in winter. With rejuvenating pruning, shoots are removed almost to the very base. But at the same time it is necessary to ensure that 2-3 living kidneys remain on the "stumps". It's okay if you remove up to 90% of the shoot length. After all, the more intensive the pruning, the more active the subsequent growth of the remaining shoots. If you are sorry to part with all the shoots at once, you can rejuvenate the plant in stages, first cutting off half of the shoots, and when they grow up, cut the rest shortly.
Rejuvenating pruning is best done shortly before or early in the growth period. Don't forget to feed the plant after pruning anti-aging - the plant will have to grow at a faster rate than usual. Many strong, healthy shoots grow after rejuvenating pruning. Therefore, sometimes such pruning is carried out in order to get a lot of high-quality cuttings.

Formative plant pruning

This is the most difficult type of pruning to give the plant the desired shape. Formative pruning is a creative process that requires careful observation of the plant. The highest achievement of the art of formative pruning is bonsai and the creation of living sculptures from plants.

At home, it is useful to form tall and highly branched plants, which, without this procedure, give a thickened and ugly crown, for example, ficuses, citrus fruits, laurel, hibiscus, roses, etc.
A poorly pruned shoot does not grow much, and a heavily pruned shoot gives a large increase. If you want to get a tree with one trunk, then the side branches at the bottom must be removed. Where you marked the tier of branches, you need to pinch the main shoot. Any unsymmetrical branches should be either shortened or completely removed, and any shoots that grow deeper into the crown should also be cut off. If the shoots are so thick that they touch each other, thin them out.
To completely remove the shoot, you need to cut it to the very base so that not a single knot remains. If you are simply shortening the shoot, hoping it will grow further, select a bud that will continue to grow and cut so that there is about 2-5 mm of tissue left above it (depending on the thickness of the stem and the size of the buds). It is better if the cut is slightly tilted and the bud is at the top of the narrowed part of the branch. Make all cuts with a sharp tool: scissors, pruning shears, razor or garden knife. If the cut surface is large, disinfect it with sulfur or charcoal powder.
In formative pruning, it is important to choose the correct growth direction for future shoots. If you want to grow a horizontal branch, then the topmost bud left on it should be turned down or to the outside of the crown. If you have planned vertical growth, then pick up the bud, directed upwards or in the center of the crown, and cut a little higher than it.
Once the plant has reached the desired height, pinch all vertical shoots. The lateral branches also need maintenance: their ends need to be shortened somewhat to regulate the direction of growth. At times, rejuvenating pruning of branches is also required (see above).
Guides often recommend using wire to give the branches the desired direction of growth. Keep in mind that plants are very willful creatures. Changing the direction of growth of branches of coffee or even tall ficuses using a wire is quite difficult. But there are those who willingly change their shape. So, from small-leaved ficuses, you can get "sculptures" of any given shape using wire frames. And one more note: the younger the branch, the easier it is to change its direction with the wire. The best way to wire shaping is not yet lignified or semi-lignified shoots.

Do you need to prune the roots?

Formative root pruning is a must only when growing bonsai. But for most indoor plants, you can limit yourself to only sanitary pruning during transplants: remove or prune all dried, rotten, broken and unhealthy roots. But not all plants will even respond well to this. The roots of most plants are better not disturbed. The root system is better suited to living in damp with constant contact with microbes than stems and leaves. The state of the root system is better controlled by watering, the quality of the substrate and top dressing.

Pruning indoor plants

Varieties of pruning home flowers

There are several types of cropping potted flowers, depending on what goal you set for yourself:

sanitary removal, removal of excess shoots and leaves;
panning and pinching;
decoration of the crown of vegetation;
cuts for the purpose of rejuvenating the flower.

One type of plant needs a single type of pruning, while another requires all of the above. But you don't need to do everything at once. Perform only the procedures that are necessary at the moment.

Making a cut of green pets correctly

It is necessary to study the preferences of each flower separately.

The main norms for cutting pot crops:

The instruments with which you carry out the procedures must be well sharpened. No need to expose green pets to additional stress;
Hygiene is important when caring for pets: clean hands, tools and surfaces. Disinfection of the tool is required before proceeding with the removal of parts of the plant. In addition, you should be most careful when working with very sensitive flowers and with indoor poisonous specimens. Protect the skin of the hands, as well as the surface and protect the plants themselves;
Plan for separate pruning and transplanting activities, although it is recommended for a large number of vegetation varieties to do these activities together. But this is not worth doing, because the flower must adapt after the transplant in order to be ready for cutting. In fact, this is a lot of stress for all vegetation, it is harmful, so leave time for rest. There is no sense for risk, because otherwise you will destroy the plant, and such sacrifices are not needed at all;
Slicing should be done correctly, it is done at an angle, above the level of the kidneys, remember this rule. If you decide to completely remove the stem, then this is done at the base, at ground level or at the point of branching. A partial cut should be made 3-7 mm above the kidney. Carry out a careful examination of the kidney, they will tell you how to correctly orient the growth of green pets - up or to the sides. There is also a rule that potted vegetation is cut in such a way that new stems will begin to grow outward, and not inside the bush, which means that the cut must be made from the bud;
There is no definite time interval when it is necessary to cut a plant, for this you need to take into account many different factors, but the most important is the individual needs of an individual specimen. In general, this procedure is carried out in the spring, or in the active stage of growth, since the upcoming summer period will give strength after dramatic changes. But this rule works, again, taking into account the age of the flower and the stage of its development.
During a haircut, stop periodically and look at the result from the side. This activity is fun and can be overdone. Therefore, if you want to form the crown of a flower, get distracted, step back, evaluate where you need to cut and start working further, but with interruptions.

Read also:

3 types of butterbur for your garden: Revealing the secrets of growing

During a haircut, stop periodically and look at the result from the side

What tools to choose for removal

Pruning should be done with extremely sharp and sterile devices.

Such a not tricky set of devices such as pruners and scissors is universal and suitable for specialized care for types of different massiveness.

Sanitary removal

Read also:

Wicker and bamboo furniture: all the secrets of care revealed

What can be achieved with this procedure:

the stems that grow incorrectly inward, lifeless, weak, damaged or dead, are removed;
the crown is freed from dry and yellowed leaves;
dry buds and obsolete peduncles are removed.

Vegetation cleaning is carried out after a period of complete dormancy, when the growing season begins. Removal is done throughout the season, if necessary, and during active flowering and foliage shedding, if the plant belongs to this species.

Pinching (pinching)

Suspension deletions are very simple

Tasks performed when using armor:

when removing the upper points of growth, the development and growth of young and productive stems is stimulated;
usual, non-traumatic for vegetation, manipulations thicken flower crowns;
you can control the direction of growth, if desired, shaping it vertically or horizontally.

Pruning that forms the crown of indoor flowers

Formative pruning performs several tasks at once:

activation for the growth of young and extreme stems;
stimulation of abundant flowering;
adjustment of height and shape, removal of unnecessarily long, unproductive branches and few leaves;
giving a certain shape to the crown, maintaining decorativeness and attractiveness;
independent giving the deciduous mass a strict form: a ball, a square, a pyramid and others;
correction of large potted flowers;
adhering to one specific silhouette;
giving the vegetation density and splendor.

All these maintenance measures are aimed at maintaining the health of potted crops and giving them an individual style that suits the taste of the owners and their interior.

Care measures are aimed at maintaining the health of potted crops

if flowering occurs on young stems, then pruning should be done at the beginning of the growing season;
if the vegetation blooms on the branches of the last season, the formation is not carried out, the peduncles are cut to the first leaves;
pronounced flowers need to be regularly rejuvenated by cutting after flowering.

Over time, many plants take on a messy appearance. They do not please, but only depress their owners. To restore decorativeness and rejuvenate plants, pruning is used. Removing and limiting the growth of certain shoots forces the plants to develop in a certain shape and direction. For indoor plants, pruning is very important because it maintains a balance between the ground part of the plant and its root system, the size of which is limited by the size of the pot. In addition, pruning improves the appearance of the plant and stimulates the development of dormant buds, making the flowering more abundant. Some plants only produce flowers on young shoots, so pruning is necessary to enhance flowering.

There are several types of pruning: sanitary, anti-aging and shaping. The goal of sanitary pruning is to remove weakened old shoots, which are often easy prey for fungi and bacteria and breeding grounds for insect pests. Anti-aging pruning is done to stimulate the growth of new young branches to replace old ones. Rejuvenating pruning is especially needed for those plants that develop long shoots that lose leaves over time. It is also necessary if the shoots are exposed from high temperatures or dry air in winter. This often happens, for example, with pelargoniums and hydrangeas. Many powerful, healthy shoots grow after rejuvenating pruning.

When should you prune your indoor plants?

Typically, pruning is done after a dormant or flowering period. It is better not to combine pruning with transplanting, as this may slow down the growth of new shoots. Many plants should be pruned annually. Never cut plants at random, be sure to check the guidelines for each species first. Some plants after pruning may not bloom, others will grow and become ugly without pruning. The best time for pruning is spring. Pruning is done after a dormant period. The cuts are made over the outward-facing leaves, otherwise new shoots will grow inward. The cut should be made a few millimeters above the kidney and go from it to the side, slightly obliquely.

What rules should be followed when pruning?

For pruning, you need to use sharp and clean tools such as pruning shears, scissors or a knife. In plants with milky sap, the cut site must be carefully burned with a burning match. Large lesions can be sprinkled with crushed charcoal to reduce the risk of infection. It is very important that the cut is smooth, without damaging the cortex and cambium under it, because the growing cambium will close the wound. Remember that wood is not regenerative and therefore needs to be protected. You need to prune the plants above the bud facing outward from the crown so that the branches do not grow inward and do not intertwine. When pruning, moving on to a new plant, be sure to disinfect the blade with alcohol, miramistin, or other antiseptics.

What is pinching indoor plants?

Pinching - pinching off the tip of the shoot with your fingers - is used to enhance the branching of very young shoots. They are so delicate that you can do without a pruner. Pinching is also used to enhance branching, since the removal of the apical bud allows lateral shoots to develop. The plant is usually pinched over the first pair of leaves. In order for cuttings or young plants to branch well and not stretch upward, you need to slow down their growth in height by pinching off the tops of the shoots. It should be borne in mind that pinching the apical bud does not immediately lead to the development of lateral shoots. Sometimes it takes quite a long time.

In some plants, flowers are formed only on young shoots, therefore, to enhance branching and, accordingly, more abundant flowering, pinching is vital for them. Such a plant, for example, is the "Decembrist" - the Schlumbergera cactus. It is recommended to pinch the shoots after flowering. You need to select a separation point, clamp the lower stem segment between the index and thumb of one hand, and separate the upper with a rotational movement. Thus, one or two segments of each stem should be separated. Never cut off segments! As a result, flowering will be more abundant, as sturdy stems will form that can bear more flowers. In addition, a properly formed Schlumberger lives much longer - some specimens bloom and grow for 20 years or more.

How are indoor flowers pruned?

It depends on the type of pruning and its goals. In the process of sanitary pruning, dead and drying shoots and, in general, all unhealthy parts of the plant are cut out. You need to cut off the shoot up to healthy tissue; if the shoot starts underground, it must be removed to the very base. With rejuvenating pruning, 3-5 buds are left on the shoot. New, strong shoots will later develop from them. Do not feel sorry for the pruned branches: the more radical the pruning, the more actively the remaining shoots will grow. It's okay if you remove up to 90% of the shoot length. After rejuvenating pruning, remember to feed the plant to ensure it grows quickly. Formative pruning allows you to achieve a specific shape. So you can get a compact bush, a ball, a standard tree, a pyramid and other more complex shapes. This is the most difficult type of pruning, since for each specific plant and for each form, a different order of pruning the shoots is required.

How to form a compact bush?

Many plants look the most attractive and thrive best when formed into a compact bush. These plants include Azalea indica, Achimenes, Coleus, Impatiens, Beloperone, Browallia, Hibiscus and many others. To form a bush in a young plant at a height of 6-7 cm, pinch the top of the main shoot. Lateral shoots, after reaching a height of 10-12 cm, are also pinched. When a beautiful bush is formed, it is necessary to periodically pluck or cut the shoots directed inward, preferably at the very beginning of their appearance. Azalea is an example. After the first pinching, three shoots are left (they are called shoots of the 1st order), after the 2nd pinching, 2 shoots are left on each shoot of the 1st order, then with subsequent pinching, the number of shoots left is alternated in this way: 3-2-3- 2, etc.

How to form a standard tree?

In horticulture, a trunk is called a tree trunk from the ground to the first branch of the crown. In a sense, almost all trees are standard trees. In a narrower sense, the standard form is a relatively small tree artificially formed (by pruning, grafting). Many houseplants, shaped like a stem village, look very attractive. It is convenient to focus on the following dimensions: a desktop village with a height of 30-45 cm, a low village with a height of 45-80 cm and a standard tree with a height of 80-105 cm. To form a standard tree, take a strong rooted stalk growing vertically upwards. Then the side shoots are removed until the plant reaches the desired height. When this height is reached, the top of the plant is cut off and 5-6 lateral shoots are allowed to develop, which will be the top of the standard tree. All leaves at the base of the stem are removed and then the crown is formed into the desired shape. In the form of a trunk, roses, pelargoniums, fuchsias can be grown ...

How to form an arc?

Ampel and climbing plants form long shoots that can be launched along a wire arc. This way you can grow Stephanotis, Passiflora, Bougainvillea glabra, Dipladenia, Jasminum and other plants. For this, the arcuate support is carefully inserted into the pot. Then the shoots are distributed along the wire, and in some places they are freely tied up with woolen thread or soft braid.

How to form curly shapes?

Some plants can be easily trimmed or pruned. It is produced without taking into account the branches, and this allows you to form almost any shape. There are very few such plants, but they are still there. Houseplants include Evergreen Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), Large-fruited Cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and Wintering Heather (Erica hiemalis).

A bouquet of wilted flowers is a very sad picture, but not rare. One of the common causes of premature flower wilting is improper cutting. Each flower crop has its own optimal cutting time. Daffodils and tulips are cut at the stage of colored buds, roses and peonies - at the time of bud opening, irises - at the opening of the first flower, gladioli - after the opening of the two lower flowers, and chrysanthemums, dahlias and other double flowers - in full shine of their bright beauty.

For cutting, it is better to use a sharp knife or pruner that does not injure plant tissue. Try to keep the cut oblique. Before placing the flowers in the vase, you need to make another cut by dropping the end of the stem into the water. This is done so that air bubbles do not clog the conducting vessels and the flower does not die from dehydration. This is what is the main reason for the wilting of flowers, including those that are already in the vase. To keep them fresh for longer, it is recommended to cut their stems a little every day.

And one more rule: it is advisable to cut flowers with long stalks - this gives them the opportunity to preserve a larger supply of nutrients and, therefore, delight us with their beauty longer.

It is important to know not only how to cut flowers correctly, but also when it is best to do it. Flowers cannot be cut during hot hours of the day. At this time, they evaporate a lot of water and quickly wither in the bouquet. Flowers cut in rainy weather do not tolerate transportation well. Their petals darken and deteriorate. It is best to cut flowers in the early morning, and in the afternoon only in cloudy weather. Flowers cut a few hours after watering are well preserved. And even better - those that are left to bloom in the garden: here they, for sure, will delight you much longer!