The threshold of a private house regularly comes into contact with moisture from shoes in which they just walked through puddles or snow. Entrance doors are exposed to sunlight, temperature extremes and strong winds. So that these negative factors do not spoil the product and do not reduce the temperature inside the dwelling, it is important to correctly install the entrance doors in a private house, which is carried out taking into account the negative influences and using the right materials.

Preparing the opening for installing doors to the house

It is better to replace the street door in a private house in a dry warm season, because unforeseen difficulties and lack of experience can stretch the process for half a day or more, due to which the living rooms will cool down if it is cold outside. It all starts with dismantling the old structure, in the process of which the canvas is removed from the hinges, and the fastening of the door frame is cut off with a grinder and a thin abrasive disc. Having ripped off the frame from the wall with a pryed mount, the structure is removed.

There is often a wooden beam on the threshold, on which the box was installed. It must be checked for integrity by trying to pierce it in several places with an awl. If a thick needle is difficult to enter, then the tree can be painted over and left. This will protect the material from moisture penetrating under the transition. In a rotten state, the bar is removed and a similar one is laid in its place. If the threshold is made of brick, then you need to knock off the traces of mortar from the surface and the outside so that nothing interferes with aligning the door frame. For protection from the sun, it is better to equip the porch with a visor, which will also protect from precipitation.

It will be easy to install an entrance door to a private house if the dimensions of the box are 20-50 mm less in width and height than the dimensions of the opening. This must be taken into account even at the stage of taking measurements and choosing a product. If the box fits tightly into the opening, then with uneven floors or walls, the position adjustment will become impossible, so part of the wall will have to be cut off. In a private house on the street, you need to bring out lighting or an outlet to connect a watering pump and other needs. One of the ways is under the door frame, therefore, when preparing the opening for these purposes, mortgages are placed in the form of a plastic pipe.

Correct installation of a street door in a private house

In order for the entrance to be well insulated from freezing, it is necessary to correctly arrange the junction of the box and the wall. The installation of a street door in a private house is carried out with the canvas removed initially so that it does not warp the structure and does not create unnecessary stress on the hands. The box is filled from the inside with foam, glued to liquid nails, or mineral wool, held by expansion. This will prevent the formation of condensation and drips in the hallway.

The box must be pasted over with masking tape so that working with a tool or foaming at the end of the mounting gap, do not spoil the powder coating. Further, the installation of a metal door in a private house with your own hands is possible with an assistant, due to the weight of the product 60-100 kg, and is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. The door frame is inserted into the opening until the casing fits completely.
  2. Plastic wedges are installed under it, which are sold in hardware stores for these purposes. In the absence of plastic devices, homemade wooden ones are used. The goal is to spread the structure along the sides.
  3. With a bubble level, check the threshold relative to the horizontal and the rack to align the vertical. To raise the corner of the box or change the slope inside the opening, the thickness of the wedge is adjusted.
  4. Upon reaching a level position, mark the drill, which can be done by attaching an anchor to it and marking the end with masking tape. You need to start drilling from above on the hinge side.
  5. The anchor is inserted into the hole and knocked out through a screwdriver. It must be tightened so that the fixation rigidity appears. Then a second similar attachment point is mounted.
  6. Now you can hang the canvas on the hinges and make sure there are no distortions under load. When everything is in order, the rest of the anchors are placed.
  7. When sealing the installation gap, it is better to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, which will not create excessive pressure on the metal, but will seal the cracks well.

The company "Reliable Doors" proposes to install an iron door in a private house in compliance with all applicable building codes, which will provide high insulation of the entrance from freezing and noise. We have extensive experience in the installation of doors in openings of various thicknesses and will ensure the correct positioning, contributing to long-term operation.

Installing entrance doors is not difficult at all, and, nevertheless, the cost of such services is quite high. In order not to overpay, check out this article: in it we will describe in detail the process of installing entrance metal doors and share some professional secrets.

Almost all modern doors, including cheap Chinese ones with a tinplate, have a standard door frame fastening scheme. Therefore, the complexity of the installation depends rather on the material of the walls and the quality of the doorway. If you were able to neatly dismantle the old door and cleaned the opening down to solid concrete or masonry, there should be no unexpected installation problems.

What tool is needed

To install an entrance door using the most current technology, you will need a punch with a 12x350 mm drill, a set of ratchet heads, a building level with a magnetic edge, a screwdriver and masking tape. In most cases, the fastening is carried out with frame anchors 12x130 mm. Select the form factor of the head (for a screwdriver or a wrench) depending on the size of the mounting holes in the door frame.

An alternative method of installing the door involves attaching it to reinforcing rods driven into holes pre-drilled in the concrete and welded either directly to the door frame or to auxiliary plates. Practice shows that it is better to install doors with a high level of burglary protection precisely on reinforcing rods, which, in addition to the strength of the fastening, are capable of withstanding the significant weight of the door. An angle grinder and a welding inverter are required from an additional tool, a wrench and a screwdriver are not needed.

Preparing the opening and checking the door before installation

Before installing the door, it is necessary to clean the opening from traces of finishing materials and old joint filler. Entrance metal doors are always directly attached to the load-bearing layer of the wall. If you plan to fill the technological joint with cement mortar, the surface must be primed, and when filling with polyurethane foam, simply cleaned of dust.

The dimensions of the doorway should be 4-5 cm larger than the dimensions of the door frame. If necessary, the opening can be expanded by knocking down a layer of the required thickness with a perforator only on one side. If the opening is 12 cm or more larger than the door frame, between the door and the opening, it is necessary to insert a section of a profile pipe of square section with pre-prepared through holes that coincide with the standard attachment points.

Before installing the door, make sure that the sealed bag with keys is not damaged, open it and check the functionality of all locks and bolts. To facilitate the installation of heavy steel doors, the leaf must be removed from the hinges. Due to their low weight, Chinese tin doors can be assembled. Before installation, cover the outer surface of the door frame with masking tape.

Installation of a door frame on a level, fastening methods

Place the door frame on the floor and level the threshold horizontally by placing the required number of spacer plates or mounting wedges under the door. Check the verticality of the installation by applying a level to the place where the platbands are attached. The door frame must be installed flush with the outer wall. Secure the door firmly in the opening using mounting or homemade wooden wedges of various sizes installed from the inside.

If the door is attached to the opening directly through the side of the box, drill a through hole, insert the anchor bolt, and pull out the free thread to secure the box. First of all, the lower point of the side of the box on which the hinges are located is fastened. Next, you need to check the installation level and fix the top first, and then the middle of the hinge side. Then follows the hinge of the canvas, checking the correct installation and fastening the counterpart of the box with three anchors.

If you use auxiliary plates for fastening, weld them to the frame profile from the outside before installing the door in the opening. The length of the weld should not be less than 6 cm. Drill the wall through the holes in the plates and fix the box with anchors in the same order.

When using to attach reinforcing bars, drive them through the plate and into the hole in the wall using a sledgehammer or hammer drill in chiseling mode. Sink the rod to such a depth that it protrudes 1-2 mm above the plate, then scald the seam in a circle. The procedure for fixing the box in the opening remains the same.

Door leaf hinge and adjustment

There are several types of door hinges and hinges, but in general they can be classified as hidden or open. Hidden hinges are fixed to the door leaf frame and frame profile with massive bolts. For hinging, such a door should be set at the desired height and held while the assistant fixes it.

It is a little more difficult to hang doors with open hinges. Here it will be necessary not only to raise the canvas to the desired level, but also to provide a little mobility. If the hinges have a non-removable pin, install a ball or thrust bearing on it and add Litol-24 grease. Raising the door and aligning the holes in the kegs with the pins, lower it, closing the hinge.

The hinge pin can be removable, while the hinges on both sides look like rings inserted between each other. To install such a door, it must be precisely aligned so that the holes in all hinges coincide, then grease the pin abundantly and hammer it in from the top side.

After hinging the door leaf, a check is made: the door should not spontaneously move when it is open at 5, 45 and 90 ° in the absence of air flow. If the box is unevenly installed, adjust it by releasing the anchor or applying light side impacts on the welded head of the rebars. If the box is installed strictly on a level, the movement of the canvas is eliminated by adjusting the awnings. The door should also close quietly, without encountering resistance with the lock tongue, for this you need to adjust the strike plate.

Sealing and sealing

After installing the door, there remains a technological gap between the frame and the opening, which must be filled with cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Boxes with a T-shaped profile are filled with cement mortar, while the mortar is laid in the cavity of the T-bar even before the door is installed in the opening.

The mixture is prepared from three parts of sand and one part of M400 cement. After mixing, the solution should remain slightly dry; alabaster is added to it in an amount of 1/4 of the mass of cement. The obtained composition is used to fill the profile space, wait 15-20 minutes until it dries completely and install the door. The technological seam is filled with the same composition from the bottom up from the inside, and a wooden plank is temporarily applied from the outside.

The gap is filled with polyurethane foam to the full thickness of the joint and is allowed to dry for 24 hours. Only after the foam has hardened are the spacer wedges removed and the resulting cavities are blown out. Excess hard foam is cut off with a knife flush with the box, the platbands are installed and the masking tape is removed.

In this article, we will talk about how to install the front door yourself correctly: we will reveal the features and subtleties of this process.

The front door is primarily the protector of your home. Therefore, it is worthwhile to approach its installation conscientiously and painstakingly study this article. If you do not want to waste your time on this venture and have an extra two or three thousand rubles, then you can hire a master.

Before you install the entrance doors, you need to dismantle the already standing "protector". To do this, first remove the canvas from the hinges.

With detachable hinges, this is done simply: open the door wider and use a pry bar or a crowbar to raise it until it pops off. If the hinges are one-piece, then there should also be no problems here: they are disconnected with a simple screwdriver. That is, they are unscrewed.

There are 2 possible options:

  • Wooden box... In this case, if possible, first unscrew the fastening screws, pull out all the nails from the vertical bars. After that, using a pry bar or a large nailer, we tear out all parts of the box from the opening.

You should know! For the convenience of dismantling a wooden door frame, you can make cuts of its side parts. This will speed up the work.

  • Box... You have to tinker a little here. Especially if it was attached by welding. To solve the problem, you will need a grinder with a metal disc, but do not forget about goggles or a mask!

Preparing the doorway

After dismantling, prepare the doorway for the installation of a new door.

We carry out the following actions:

  • Getting rid of the remaining protruding parts: nails, screws, pieces of plaster and insulating materials.
  • We measure the opening and the door block... If necessary, we increase the opening: we use a sledgehammer or a cutting machine with a diamond disc.

You should know! The size of the opening should be at least 2 cm larger than the box size, and maximum 2.5 cm.

  • Narrowing of the opening, as a rule, is rarely done.... But if there is such a need, then this should be done using a cement-sand mixture of the M-300 brand. A metal corner can be used as formwork.

Procedure

Material and tools

After you have decided what to install the front door, bought (see) and delivered it, you can start installation.

First, we prepare the tool:

  1. Hammer drill (hammer drill) with a 15 mm drill. The working length of the drill must be at least 180 mm.
  2. Building level with three eyes.
  3. Hammer.
  4. Roulette (at least 3 meters long).
  5. A screwdriver.
  6. 17mm socket wrench. Head length - at least 4.5 cm.

The installation of metal doors in city apartments and private houses has now become a mass phenomenon. To install a steel door, you will have to pay at least a third of its cost - this is how much the services of specialists cost. If you are not ready to overpay, we will tell and show you how to properly install an entrance metal door yourself, and on a different basis.

A high-quality installation of a metal door is no less important than choosing the right one.

According to statistics, at least a quarter of entry door breaks occur when a metal door to an apartment or house was simply pulled out of the opening along with the door frame. So a high-quality installation of an iron door is no less important than a competent choice.

Correct installation of an iron door directly depends on competent preparation:

  • First, you need to choose the right front door according to the size of your doorway. There is another option - to make an entrance iron door with your own hands according to individual sizes. There is a video and step-by-step instructions on how to do this.
  • Then you need to dismantle the old doors to the apartment or house.
  • Next, you have to prepare the opening for the front door with your own hands.
  • Only after that begins specifically the installation of a steel door for your cozy apartment or house, although there are several stages here, but more on that later.

Briefly about the choice of doors

You can find detailed recommendations on how to choose the right front door, with a justification of the reasons and a description of actions, but now we will briefly outline the theses and go through the main parameters of such structures.

Methods for installing metal doors largely depend on the type and quality of the structure.

  • A metal door must be welded from metal with a thickness of 1.2 mm. By the way, Chinese models come with a sheet thickness of 0.6–1 mm, and therefore can be opened with a tin key.
  • The gap between the door leaf and the frame must be 2–4 mm, otherwise, at the slightest shrinkage, the door may jam in the frame.
  • Any, even a budget model, should have anti-vandal pins in the tray on the hinge side, but it is better to choose a crab lock with spacers in all directions.

Standard metal construction with a minimum of required options.

  • In order to avoid corrosion, the metal must be painted with high quality everywhere. It is desirable that it be powder coated. For self-made and used doors, there are several finishing options, there are step-by-step instructions for arranging all these options
  • The sore spot of any entrance metal door is the threshold. Better that it was made of stainless steel. If you are choosing from the budget sector, then look to have some kind of anti-corrosion pad on the threshold, because paint alone is not enough.
  • Doors are installed on the front door with a load-bearing wall thickness of 250 mm. Not all models are supplied with such fittings, so take the cashing and extras on the metal door right away, otherwise you may not have the desired shade later.
  • Easy and correct installation of a metal door with your own hands depends on the matching of the door frame and the opening. Ideally, the gap between the opening and the box should be 10–25 mm. In order not to lay or, conversely, not to expand the opening later, select the box immediately, the parameters of the boxes are in the table below.

The box is inserted with a gap of 10–25 mm from the edge of the doorway.

  • The lock plays an important role in the choice of metal doors. The choice of the castle is a rather extensive topic, and we will not dwell on it now. If you are interested, then the rules for choosing and the main types of locks are painted.
  • Also, do not forget about a reliable and beautiful handle on a metal door. It is often sold separately from the lock, information on the different types of handles and the rules for their selection is located.

Correct installation of the entrance door depends on the correct measurement of the opening.

Dismantling old doors

Do-it-yourself installation of entrance metal doors is impossible without dismantling old doors. We start by removing the door leaf, for this we open the doors, put a crowbar under the bottom and remove the leaf from the hinges. If the hinges are hidden, then we take a screwdriver with keys and untwist it, in extreme cases we cut it off with a grinder.

To dismantle the old iron box, you first need to find the places of its fastenings. To do this, examine the box itself from the inside: if there are plastic plugs on it, then they need to be opened, most likely, you will find fastening anchors or reinforcing pins under them.

With anchors, everything is simple: they are unscrewed with a screwdriver or a socket wrench. But in order to free the box from the reinforcing crutches, you will need to break part of the doorway and cut the crutches from the outside with a grinder.

To dismantle the metal box, you need to cut off all the fasteners with a grinder.

It used to be customary to install iron doors on the mounting ears (see the diagram above). Such "ears" were then plastered or on top of them could be installed extensions with removable cashing. You will need to get to these ears and cut off the attachments with a grinder, and it is desirable to cut off not the ears themselves, but the iron crutches that fix these ears. When all fasteners are cut, the box can be easily pulled out using a pry bar or hammer.

The wooden box is pulled out a little differently. It is usually nailed to mortgages inside the wall, so it cannot be removed entirely. Here you will need to slightly cut the racks in the center and, prying them with a crowbar or a pry bar, try to break them in the places of the notch.

It is almost impossible to dismantle an old wooden tray entirely.

Keep in mind: in no case should a tree be cut with a grinder: with a high degree of probability, the circle can get stuck in the wood and burst, with all the ensuing consequences. Cut only with a hacksaw or chainsaw, you can make notches with an ax.

A separate story with a threshold. Previously, a solid wooden bar was installed in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe threshold of the entrance door, it was recessed into the floor. Some masters advise to "poke" it with an awl, and if it has not rotted, leave it in its place. We do not recommend doing this: it is advisable to remove the timber and dismantle it completely.

Preparing the doorway

After dismantling the old structures, it is unlikely that your opening will be perfectly even, so first you need to decide on the amount of destruction. To do this, measure in fact: this way you will find out where you need to remove and where to add.

After measuring, it will be necessary to knock down everything unnecessary with a puncher: the box should freely enter the opening.

From the doorway, you need to cut and knock down all that is superfluous.

Next, mix the cement-sand mortar (1: 3 cement / sand) and carefully cover up all the cracks. Large potholes are filled with pieces of broken brick. If a wooden beam was laid in the threshold, then it is advisable to lay this groove with a brick or build a small reinforcing cage and pour a concrete screed.

It will be much easier to install a metal door if the doorway is well aligned.

Technique for installing doors on brick or concrete

Installation of steel doors on brick or concrete can be done in two ways: on the anchor inside the box and on the lugs. Both of these methods deserve attention, so we will first talk in detail about how to install an entrance metal door on an anchor, and then we will analyze the rules for installing it on the eyes.

Checking mechanisms before installation

Keep in mind: Do-it-yourself installation of metal doors will almost always void the door warranty. But this point needs to be clarified when buying. There are times when the warranty is maintained. Usually, online stores, which do not have their own team of installers, keep the guarantee.

Installation of a metal door is the last step. When you start the installation, there should already be locks with handles in the doors, and it is also imperative to fasten and slightly adjust the hinges. By the way, how the adjustment of different types of doors is performed is written and shown.

It is undesirable to use basalt wool for box insulation.

In some models, the door is installed with partial insulation of the box, that is, insulation is laid in the box before installation. As a rule, these models are equipped with ribbons of basalt wool, which you need to lay inside the box yourself. But cotton wool is hygroscopic, and when wet, it loses its properties and promotes corrosion of the metal around it. Therefore, we advise you to insert pieces of polystyrene inside the box, and fill the gaps with polyurethane foam. If you do not mind the money, then you can completely fill the box with polyurethane foam.

At the same stage, sealing strips are glued or inserted into special grooves between the frame and the door leaf. It is also advisable to paste over the front side of the box with masking tape - this will protect the structure from accidental scratches and the ingress of polyurethane foam.

It is advisable to seal the front side of the box with masking tape.

By the way, if you plan to run any cables through the front door, then it's time to mount somewhere on the side a mortgage plastic tube or corrugation under this wiring.

Installation of the structure on internal anchors

During installation, it is advisable to remove the door leaf from the box. Initially, the box is installed on two pads with a thickness of 20 mm or more. Wood or plastic wedges can be used as spacers. We recommend buying triangular plastic wedges from the market and working with them. So, even if you have to brick up these wedges in a box, in any case they will not rot or move, and their price is cheap.

First of all, with the help of all the same wedges, we set the box horizontally, after that we adjust the structure vertically. Theoretically, you can use a plumb line for vertical installation, but this method is good for professionals, it is better for an amateur to work with a level.

You will set the horizontal quickly, but you will have to tinker with the vertical. As soon as it is "caught", you can start wedging the box in the opening. Wedges are set from top to bottom in pairs. The arrows in the diagram below indicate the recommended installation points for the wedges.

When wedging, pay attention to the anchor holes: the wedges should not overlap these holes, but at the same time, it is better to mount the wedges close to the anchor points. The photo below shows the principle.

Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical after each of your actions, because this is exactly the case when the control is not excessive.

Anchors for the installation of the box are selected with a length of 120 mm, the thickness of the anchor starts from 10 mm. The main thing here is that the head of the anchor freely passes into the outer hole and clings to the inner one.

The drill for the hammer drill is selected taking into account the thickness of the door frame, because you will drill through this box. Plus, the depth of the hole in the wall itself should be at least 10 mm larger than the size of the anchor. In order not to capture too much, craftsmen usually mark the depth of drilling with masking tape.

Start drilling from the upper holes in the area of ​​the hinges, after drilling each hole, check the horizontal and vertical.

When the patch is installed and the holes are drilled, you can begin to mount the anchor. The technology is simple: insert the anchor into the hole, tap it lightly so that it goes to its full depth, and tighten.

It is still too early to tighten the anchor tightly: perhaps you still have to fine-tune the box in space, and this procedure is done in conjunction by alternately tightening the anchors and driving wedges.

There is a little subtlety here. First, you fix the box with three anchors, two of which are located near the hinges, and the third in the area of ​​the castle. After that, hang the canvas and check how it closes.

If everything is in order, then these three anchors are fixed, after which the door leaf is removed, and the rest of the anchors can be driven in. Then hang the door leaf again and, after checking, proceed to the final clamping of all anchors.

With foaming, everything is simple: choose the foam with a minimum expansion coefficient. With the sting of an assembly gun inserted into the gap, pour as much foam around the perimeter of the box as it will fit. If the box of an interior door, foam is still capable of deforming when expanding, then in the case of metal it is powerless.

Doors in a frame house are also put on anchors, but the doorway is made reinforced, and you need to be careful with foam here: the wooden frame may not withstand the pressure and move.

The installation of the slope and the installation of the extension are detailed in detail, and also shown below in the video in this article.

Installation of doors on the lugs

Eyelet mounting is considered to be the simpler and more versatile method. It is much easier for an amateur to work with this technology.

The technique for installing and wedging the box was described in detail above, and there is no point in talking about it again. As for fixing the box to the lugs, everything is simple here:

  • The eyelet is bent along the wall, and if there is a hole in the center of the plate, then you will need to drill a hole in the wall and drive the anchor there.
  • Often people save on anchors and hammer reinforcing crutches into the lugs. In this case, it is better to hammer in a couple of crutches next to the plate, and then weld them to the plate and cut them flush with a grinder.

Installation of iron doors in a wooden house

Installation of doors in a log cabin or a house from a bar differs from the traditional installation in that the structure is not mounted on the walls, but on the so-called casing. Plus, on top of the doors, a gap of up to 120 mm is left for the shrinkage of the house.

Otherwise, if the metal door is installed without shrinkage tolerance, then the structure of the thin metal of the wall will be crushed during shrinkage, and the overlap will hang on the strong box, and there will be cracks on the sides. Details on how to install an iron door in a wooden house are written and also shown in the video below.

Installation of doors on aerated concrete

The technique of installing doors on aerated or aerated concrete walls is not much different from installing structures on a brick wall. But the bearing capacity of aerated concrete is much lower, therefore, the delivered door is fixed more thoroughly.

On cellular concrete under a metal door, it is better to make a frame from a corner.

We recommend to weld the doorway with a metal corner with a wing size of 25 mm, and then screw or weld an iron door to this frame. The subtleties of installing iron doors on aerated concrete are described and shown in the video below.

Output

We will not argue that installing iron doors is an easy walk, but if you follow all the above recommendations, then a person who knows how to hold a drill and a hammer in his hands can cope with such work.

Do-it-yourself doors will be your pride.

A well-installed front door can provide you with less heat from the house, as well as the safety of your property. Due to the significant insulation of the frame, warm air does not leave the house. The audibility of what happens outdoors is reduced.

You can install the entrance doors yourself. This does not require any special knowledge or special tools. You will find everything you need at home, and the rest can be purchased, for example, polyurethane foam. If you bought a massive door, then it will be easier to install it together.

If the canvas is not heavy, then you can handle it yourself, it is enough to know a few basic rules for installing such products.

Required tools and materials

To make a high-quality and fast installation of the front door, you will need the following tools:

  1. Perforator. It must have special drills that can be used to drill holes.
  2. Construction knife.
  3. Small building level.
  4. Screwdriver set.
  5. Yardstick. It should not be less than three meters.
  6. Anchor.
  7. Hammer.

Opening preparation

The first step in preparing a doorway is to dismantle the old door. Perform this action very carefully. The opening must remain intact. If the dismantling is done correctly, then the installation of the new product will be much faster. Measurements of the required door must be carried out extremely accurately.

Step-by-step dismantling of the door:

  1. You must first remove the door leaf, for this, place a crowbar under the lower edge. Then slightly lift the door leaf and remove it from its hinges. Do everything carefully and slowly. If you have non-separable hinges, then you need to unscrew them. Always start at the bottom.
  2. Then disassemble the slopes, strip off the wallpaper, cover the plaster. Find all major attachment points. Carefully cut off all anchors with a grinder. Be careful not to damage the box.
  3. If you had a wooden front door, then the dismantling process will be much easier. Cut the side uprights down the middle and use a crowbar to break them off. After that, the threshold and lintels can be removed without much effort.

Step-by-step preparation of the opening:

  1. After dismantling the old door, you can start preparing the opening. Thoroughly remove leftover putty, brick pieces and other debris. It is necessary to get rid of any debris that may fall off. If there are significant voids, you need to fill them with bricks and cement mortar. We also cover the cracks with a special solution.
  2. For ease of installation, it is necessary to remove all protrusions. For this, a hammer or grinder is used.
  3. Pay close attention to the condition of the floor near the doorway. In old-style houses, a wooden beam was often placed under the door frame. During this time, it has already become rotten and therefore it is necessary to remove it.
  4. In the place that has become vacant, it is necessary to put a new bar. Be sure to treat it with an anti-rotting agent. Fill the voids with cement mortar.
  5. After all these actions, the doorway should become even. This is required for quick and easy installation of the front door.

DIY installation of plastic street models: step by step instructions

It is not difficult to install PVC interior and entrance doors in a brick private house or cottage with your own hands. To get the job done as quickly as possible, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

  1. It is necessary to insert the plastic door frame into the opening. The whole structure is fixed with wedges. Wedges are distributed around the perimeter of the opening. They need to be adjusted to find the optimal door position.
  2. Carefully check how smoothly and firmly the box is fixed.
  3. For the next stage of work, it is necessary to drill holes. This will require a primitive diagram that you can draw yourself. The work is done with a drill. The optimal distance is 300 mm from the masonry.
  4. Dowels are driven into the holes with a hammer.
  5. The remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam. This action must be performed carefully so that there are no gaps. You can install the base if you have a large distance between the box and the wall. The excess foam must be trimmed off after it dries.
  6. The slopes are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The inner space must be filled. Most often, heaters and a sealant are used for these purposes. You can strengthen it from the outside with plastic.
  7. At the last stage of door installation, it is necessary to hang the sash on the hinges. Then you can finally adjust the MDF panels.

How to properly install external steel doors yourself?

There are several ways to install external steel doors in accordance with GOST. You will be able to choose the one which suits you best:

  • Steel pins are used. They are driven into a hole and welded to a metal door. This method has several disadvantages. You will need welding, which not everyone has. Polymer coating or paint can be damaged in the welded areas. It is worth noting that the paint can still be restored, and the coating will be damaged forever.

  • Fastening into aluminum doors into the walls of a log house through a frame. It is necessary to pre-drill holes in the door leaf. They should be of a certain size, which is slightly larger than the bolt. The anchor is inserted into the hole and hammered in with a special hammer. It is desirable that the head of the anchor is completely immersed in the box.

This method also has several disadvantages. All the holes you have drilled are very close to the wall. If you put the door leaf in this way you need to a brick or aerated concrete wall, then the fastening will not be durable.

To protect your own door in the "Khrushchev" from burglary, when installing metal models it is necessary to place the pins as far as possible from the surface that is externally. This way you can deepen the door block. The most optimal option for installation in a panel house is installation deep into the opening. With this method of installation, iron doors will open no more than 90%.

How to insert a second entrance door?

At this stage of repair and installation of double doors, there are several nuances that must be taken into account during installation. Step-by-step instructions for the second door, if the first one is installed:

  • First of all, you need to decide in which direction you want the door to open. Most often, an additional door opens to the inside of the house. From this it follows that the fastening will be located in the same place as the fastening of the first door leaf.
  • There must be a distance between the doors. It should be at least twenty centimeters. Thanks to this arrangement, the accessories from the canvases will not come into contact with each other. It is undesirable to leave too much distance between the products, as the thermal insulation can be significantly reduced.

Features of self-installation in a frame house:

  • The very first thing to do before installation is to make sure that the opening is securely fastened. Frames must be securely fixed to the frame and located at all four corners. Be sure to seal all walls near the doorway before installing the main casing. To do this, use a waterproofing film.
  • Secure with construction tape or stapler. If you are installing a metal door in a log house, first make all the necessary measurements, and then compare them with the door you are buying.

  • The door to a log house is most often purchased as an assembly. It consists of a frame that has hinges and curtains. There are always special holes in the frame. They are intended for fastening.
  • The door block must be completely immersed in the doorway. It is quite difficult to do this on your own, because the structure is heavy. You need to put a block under the door. Moreover, it must be open.

  • Take a level and carefully measure the location of the frame in the doorway. Align the frame with these measurements. This must be done horizontally to the floor and also vertically to the wall. Fix the desired position of the product with wedges, preferably wooden. Then close the door.
  • Check the position of the door leaf several times. If any deviations were noticed, they must be eliminated immediately. This is done using the same wooden wedges.
  • Next, it is necessary to fix the door leaf in the casing box. This is done using a rigid fixation. Drill holes through the special mounting points located in the frame. They are required for anchors and studs.
  • Drill the holes through. They should extend beyond the frame and box.

  • Using construction pins or anchors, we fix the frame together with the door. Then you need to check how the door works in the selected position. Often, the frame house does not sag and therefore the fasteners do not turn out. The threshold is also fixed with anchor bolts. The nuts must be tightened as much as possible - until they stop.
  • If the doors are closed normally, you can proceed to the next step. Using a special gun, the space between the box and the frame must be filled with polyurethane foam. Work is carried out starting from the top of the product. The seam is only half filled and then the foam must be allowed to harden.
  • The sealant fills the gaps that can be seen between the threshold and the floor. We check the operation of the product. If you find any inconsistencies, then they must be corrected immediately. Cover all seams with platbands.

For more information on how to install an entrance door in a frame house, see the next video.

Installation rules in foam block and foam concrete

Most often, entrance doors are of a specific design. It is quite massive and is made mainly of metal. In modern construction, not very durable materials are used for the construction of walls, for example, foam blocks or foam concrete. You need to know a few nuances in order to insert a solid door into such a wall. Here are the main ones:

  • The number of fasteners per post should be increased.
  • The opening must be strengthened. A welded structure is suitable for this. It is executed in the form of a horseshoe. On the door opening, it is installed in the overlay.
  • Sometimes a reinforcing structure outdoors will cause condensation to form. Already at the preparatory stage of construction, you need to take care of the block fastening. It must be very reliable. For this, the craftsmen create special portals, which are made of reinforced concrete.

  • Pay attention to the installation seam. It should be durable and neat. An assembly joint that is less than ten millimeters wide must be filled with special polyurethane foam. After all the actions, a yellow crust appears on the polyurethane foam. It must be carefully crushed.
  • A cement mortar is not at all suitable as a filler. It will not give sufficient adhesion to material such as aerated concrete. The long service life of the joint depends mainly on the quality of the completed seal. It is necessary to take an extremely responsible approach to this stage of construction work.

Installation rules in apartment buildings

A number of rules are given in the special literature. They must be taken into account when installing doors in apartment buildings. The rules cover metrics such as:

  • air tightness;
  • heat and sound insulation:
  • fire-resistant indicators of the installed products;
  • bullet resistance, etc.

To comply with all standards, you need to take into account the fact that that part of the structure that moves should fit as tightly as possible to the frame. All gaps that may form between the wall and the box must be properly sealed. High-quality tightness of such products can be provided by special sealing layers of fabric made of rubber.

All doors in houses where there are many apartments, by all means, must isolate the premises and corridors from the standard staircases and elevator halls.

The doors must by all means keep the noise up to thirty decibels as much as possible. Fire regulations are also described in specific documents. According to fire safety rules, the door leaf should not be flammable. It must have the necessary quality certificates.

For information on how to properly install the front door, see the next video.

The nuances of fastening models with a thermal break

The basic technology for installing a door, which has a thermal break, is not very different from the installation of a standard door leaf.

Such an entrance structure can be easily installed with your own hands:

  • At the first main stage, the obsolete structure is removed, as well as the preparation of the doorway. It is thoroughly cleaned of old dirt and other debris.
  • If this wall surface is uneven, then it must be leveled. It is advisable to make hydro and vapor barrier around the entire perimeter of the opening.
  • The next step is to install the box. The canvas is previously removed from it. This action helps to greatly simplify the work. The design will be significantly reduced in weight and will be easy to remove and put on.

  • Pegs are used to fix the box. They need to be prepared in advance. Remember to leave a special mounting gap. Its thickness should be approximately 2 centimeters. A gap is left between the structure and the threshold.
  • Then it is imperative to check the location of the box, how correct it is. After that, its final consolidation is carried out. Anchor bolts are used for these purposes. It is necessary to begin the installation of the structure from the side on which the hinges are located. Then you need to carefully foam the empty space.
  • The next step should be started after the sealant has dried. This will take approximately 20 hours. It all depends on the brand of polyurethane foam that you used.