How to assemble a large model of a t 34 tank. Current and overview of each issue

01.11.2016.

Looking for some new blog for the construction, or rather the saw cut of the T-34-85 model from Zvezda.

I was standing on my shelf, covered in dust, my first assembled tank. It is clear that it was assembled and badly painted and accordingly. But I was not going to throw it out. Periodically glanced at him and thought what to do with him. It looked something like this, an old photo, from the time of completion of work with this tank:

And now, at last, I am ripe - I will redo it. You should not expect something supernatural from this assembly, you should also not wait for compliance with materiel and other things. The cut is done to practice various skills. I will do it slowly, depending on the mood, maybe I will never finish)))

Now to the stages of work.

The first step was to remove the old paint from the model. For this I used folk remedy"Mole". Instructions for use are attached:

After removing the old paint, it's time to disassemble the entire model to the maximum. Because it was collected frankly lousy.

After tore off everything that comes off, I switched to more radical methods. I cut off the fenders, and also made holes in the MTO cover in order to insert the mesh later.

I also removed all the details from the rear armor plate. Unfortunately, some of the bolts were damaged and will have to be repaired.

I decided to experiment, so experiment. Take from the set of the Royal Tiger from the Star plastic mesh for MTO and glued 34ki on the cover, having previously adjusted it to size. At first glance, it looks not bad, I would even say good. Especially considering how it looked initially.

The next step I decided to close the "holes" between the upper and lower halves of the case. For this I used a sheet of plastic with a thickness of 0.3 mm. To keep it in the desired shape, I made a bet from a sheet backing for the laminate.

The next step was to restore the hinges for the turret hatches. Relatives were broken during dismantling.

Initially, I glued them in the open state, but since the detailing wishes to leave the best, I decided to close them.

04.11.2016.

Another small update.

Added welding seams to the turret ventilation armored hoods. Used for this for the first time Moment Epoxylin Duo. It turned out medium-lousy, maybe I'll redo it later. Enhanced the effect of the trail from the gas cutter, additionally cutting it with a knife and trimming it with a file. And smoothed the imitation of the injection mold of the tower, because on this model, it is made rather roughly. This is also the first time. Still a good model for experiments :). I did it as follows: I took a small amount of putty on the brush (in this case it was a putty from I-Modeler), dipped the brush into the star glue and poked it evenly over the entire surface to be treated with a poke motion. The result of these experiments is shown in the photo.

10.01.2017.

First update in the new year.

I switched to a new camera, now the picture in the video is much more detailed and it is possible to show everything in detail.

First of all, I started a combat test of the new bent for photo-etching, which I made at the end of last year. To begin with, I started making fenders. Because it is not worth the task "to fit into the drawings and the number of rivets", then the dimensions were taken from the plastic. The width of the outer edge is 1mm, the inner edge is 2mm, and the shelf itself is 5mm. The material for the shelf is foil from a tube of mustard. I have used it more than once for the manufacture of various parts. Moderately soft, keeps its shape well, easy to handle. The preliminary result looks like this:

There will be some manipulations over the shelf, but later, this is not the final look.

Further, it was decided to replace the rear armor plate, tk. the dear one suffered quite badly during the dismantling. Here sheet plastic was used. The board itself was cut on a paper stencil and modified from 1mm thick plastic. Engine access hatch made of 0.3mm plastic. The circle was cut out using a special tool (https://goo.gl/71DBKX or http://ali.pub/zoalb). She cuts paper without any problems, but I had to tinker with plastic. I also had to make hinges for the hatch from scratch, all from the same foil and a piece of wire. Well, I put a preliminary outline for the restoration of the bolts. At this stage, everything looked something like this:

The next step was to drill the holes for installing the bolts. Then I made a couple more loops on the bottom of the armor plate. Transferred dimensions and drilled holes for installing the exhaust system. Bolts were manufactured using a GreenStuffWorld rubber mold, a video of the manufacturing process can be viewed. Well, after they were made, I started gluing all the parts. I glued everything on regular model glue from Tamiya. The final view of the armor plate after all the manipulations:

In the first part of the blog, I showed the modified MTO cover. But then I remembered that one of the subscribers sent a set of photo-etched parts for 34ki. Initially, I planned to use it on the SU-100, but decided to use it now. And the modified one will go to DRYING. Well, and a photo for comparing the standard, modified and MTO cover from photo-etched:

The final view of this stage is as follows:

Well, as usual, a visual video with comments:

15.03.2017.

After another big break, I got down to work.

The first step was to add a handle to the rear armor plate hatch, which I forgot about last time (thanks to the subscribers, they suggested).

During the downtime, metal tracks from FriulModel managed to come to me. Which naturally I began to collect. Gathering pleasantly and without any problems. Quality and appearance chic. I collected only half on one side, I will continue later, tk. work with the suspension is still a long way off. Separators were also added to the left fender, which was torn off from the hull. will interfere with further work.

Separators, fastening loops and handrails on the other side of the tank have also been added. Dividers made from the same foil as the shelf. Handrails and hinges and fine wire (0.5 and 0.35). Details of manufacturing are in the video report.

And I also worked a little with photo-etching. I inserted MTO blinds. There was a lot of fiddling with small details. The funny thing is that nothing of this will be seen in the final result. But since it was given, I decided to do it right.

It seems that he did not do much, but the time has passed decently.

Well, a video report on the work done with all the details:

30.05.2017.

In between the construction of the models, I did an experiment with sculpting bags and rolls. I was drawn to sculpting, tk. a parcel with sculpting tools came from China. All goods for modeling from China can be found in the article.

Unfortunately, I did not know that you cannot leave unbaked polymer clay on plastic. As a result - my 34ki board melted. I had to putty. And in three runs. To my surprise, Tamiya's putty shrinks quite a bit.

While the putty was drying, I assembled a tower from MSD. Surprisingly, the details fit perfectly. All that remains is to add welds and a simulation of the injection mold. Well, for one I tried on a metal barrel from Aber, it looks great.

Another photo for comparison with the native tower from Zvezda.

Also, rollers from MSD were assembled and tried on the tank along with half of the harp from FriulModel. Again, it looks many times better than the relatives from the Star.

Well, the final touch of this call is the armor plugs on the tower. Made 3 pieces just in case. One hung on a chain from Aber, the other inserted into the tower. By itself, it was necessary to pre-drill the appropriate holes.

Here is the final view of the stage:

The sawing continues at a leisurely pace. In the meantime, you can watch another video with this stage of construction:

03.12.2018.

The construction was frozen for over a year. First, other projects, then moving, and finally I took apart the boxes and got to the project with the 34th.

The plans are to replace the previously installed hinges and finish with the alignment of the damaged side.

But I'll start by assembling the tracks. And the first step is to drill out each track with a 0.5mm drill (according to the manufacturer's recommendation). I couldn't find a suitable mix, so I used a larger one, in the region of 0.7-0.9mm. The process is long, but necessary.

Then I cut the brass wire with a margin, which was included with the Friulov tracks, and connected the tracks to each other.

The excess length is easily bite off with pliers.

Well, then trying on the track on the tank.

Well, and more clearly "standing" on the skating rinks from both sides:

After that, he removed the old hinges from the bead and leveled the layer of putty.

Now the assembly of the tanks. There are three of them in the photo-etched set. Although I probably need 1 or 2, I collected everything. The assembly is not difficult, all the details are in the video.

I was surprised to find that the Aber photo-etching kit did not include fasteners for hanging tanks, only for smoke barrels.

The full video with all the details of the stage is already available on the channel:

I hope there will be no more lengthy pauses and the next episode will be released as soon as possible.

21.04.2019.

Another small update for 34k.

Another break was associated with the birth of my second child, I am slowly returning to modeling.

Sawed plastic grates from the MTO section. I swept it over for photo-etching. Now it looks much nicer. Later I want to "pat them" a little, but this is closer to the final.

In the video, you can see the whole process in more detail and with details:

To be continued…

The T-34 tank needs no introduction. Even people far from the history of tank building can easily name best tank during the Second World War. Moreover, these people live not only on the territory of Ukraine or the former Soviet Union(each sandpiper praises his swamp), but Poles, Americans, British, French, and even Germans admit this fact. The German tanks had excellent guns, the best in their class, thick Krupp armor and the most powerful Maybach engines, but the T-34 had no equal in terms of combat qualities.
Give yourself or your child the joy of doing something with your own hands, the opportunity to plunge into the history of events subject to the strategic logic of military operations, famous tank battles- great crashes and amazing victories.

Consider the step-by-step assembly of the T-34 tank

To assemble the tank you will need: - a set of the T-34 tank model from the manufacturer ZVEZDA 3525;
- model knife and nippers;
- model rug;
- glue for plastic;
- brushes;
- lighter;
- toothpick STEP 1. ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY

1. First you need to open the box, lay out its contents and carefully examine all frames with parts (sprues), as well as instructions for assembly and painting. All frames are marked with letters, and details with numbers. The instructions show when and what parts should be cut and glued.

2. Next, you need to prepare necessary tools: model glue, with which you will glue the parts, a model knife and nippers to separate parts from the frame and remove burrs and burrs (unnecessary particles), a model rug and brushes.


3. According to the instructions, we look at which parts need to be cut off first (all frames are marked with letters, and each part is marked with a number), and we separate the parts from the frame using nippers or a model knife.

4. When all the parts are disconnected in the first step in the instructions, you can start gluing them.

We glue the cooling system grilles on the upper part of the hull, assemble the aft armor plate with exhaust pipes. Exactly which parts to what and how to attach are shown in the instructions of the model. You need to glue it with a special model glue and a brush (if it is more convenient for you to apply the glue with something else, then you can use any available means). We used a toothpick, for example.

5. Further, according to the instructions, we cut off and glue the parts of the lower part of the body - "bath".

STEP 2. ASSEMBLY OF THE UNDERGROUND

1. According to the instructions, cut off the tank rollers (wheels) from the sprue, join the wheel parts into the grooves, glue and place them on the bottom of the tank. We fix the rollers with a special rivet.

2. After that, we begin to assemble and fix the vinyl tracks (caterpillar). To do this, cut off the track tape from the sprue, connect the tracks in a circle (on the last track there are special recesses that are inserted into the grooves on the first track) and solder them with a heated screwdriver.

For this operation, children need adult help !!!

3. Install the track belt on the rollers, while the "ridges" of the tracks should enter the gap inside the roller.

STEP 3. ASSEMBLY OF THE TOWER

Separate the tower parts from the sprue according to the instructions. We collect the gun mask and the barrel so that the latter remains mobile. We glue the tower to the shoulder strap and install the stopper. We glue the gun mask, observation devices, hatches, armored fan hood, handrails, etc. on the tower.

STEP 4. FINAL ASSEMBLY We glue the upper and lower parts of the hull, assemble and glue (in the open or closed position) the driver's hatch, the cover of the course machine gun, eyebolts, spare parts boxes, chance tool, old-style fuel tanks, spare tracks, tow cables.

It should be borne in mind that on each tank, all of the above items were fastened very individually, often not in their fastening places. Therefore, great opportunities for creativity open up here, and there is a real opportunity to add personality models.
You need to make your own antenna. To do this, you need to cut off 5-6 centimeters of the straight section of the unnecessary sprue without parts and warm it up in the middle, on the fire of a lighter, slowly twisting it. Then stretch the heated part of the sprue to achieve the desired antenna length and thickness. Cut to the required length and glue the antenna in place to the antenna lead.
The antenna should be manufactured and glued last, as it tends to break down quickly.

At the same time, children also need the help of an adult !!!

We put the tower in place, and EVERYTHING! Your first tank is complete!
Now it remains to paint it, apply identification marks in the form of decals (stickers), and you will have small tank but very similar to the real one. If you wish, you can add a little detail to it with photo-etching (metal detailing kits), but we will tell you about the application of photo-etching and painting in the next article.

The assembly of the tank was not particularly difficult for me, although this is my first model. With a little help in the form of advice from more experienced comrades, the assembly took no more than two incomplete days. At the same time, the pleasure from creativity is incomparably greater at the sight of the finished result. The T-34 model from Zvezda in 35th scale may well become your first model!

This is a modular T-34-85 model from Revell. Its construction began several years ago. Like many times before, I wanted to make a box assembly. But as usual, a small revision and the purchase of photo-etched parts entails a lot of revisions. The work was carried out intermittently for other projects. Photo-etched by Part, designed specifically for the Revell kit, is used here. Now I can't remember why I didn't put the fenders and fenders, maybe I was too lazy. Some parts had to be made by myself. The handrails of the T-34-85 model are made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm. The gunner's machine gun is made of a syringe needle. The optics in the viewing devices are made from old DVDs. The viewing slots were cut in the commander's cupola, an imitation of their welding was made from the drawn sprue. The fuel tank mountings are soldered from a strip of copper foil and copper wire. The headlight is drilled out and a stamped reflector made of aluminum foil is inserted, the glass itself is cut from plexiglass.

In general, the assembly of the T-34-85 from Revell did not cause any particular difficulties. Most of the problems arose during the installation of the tracks. The kit from the German manufacturer is missing about a track and a half. I had to put in spare ones from the UM model. One track was made prefabricated one and a half, since it was not possible to install the tracks in another way. The antenna, as before, is made of a cat's whisker (picked up from the floor, not a single animal was hurt). This is what the Revell T-34-85 model looked like before painting.

The tank was painted with nitro-based AKAN paints. The main color of the model is 4BO. White crosses of quick identification were previously applied to the tower. Then tinting and washes were made. They were made with different types of paints. We used Zvezda water-soluble paints, Tamiya enamels diluted in Whitespirit, Tamiya tinting pigments, Ferrario pigments, AK washes of various types. Dust imitation was done with Hobby + nitro paint of the corresponding color. The variant of painting the model and applying decals was taken from the proposed set - April 1945. You should evaluate the result. The photo session of the model was carried out on the street, in my opinion, it was not very successful. Again, as in the case of the UM T-34-85 model, I did not like the color rendition. The colors are lighter and do not match those on the model. For myself, I made a conclusion - you need to learn how to photograph models. You also need to look and understand the camera settings. I also offer a short video of the finished work.

The T-34 was significantly improved during testing, and mass production was launched in September by Koshkin's successor, chief designer Alexander Morozov. The creation of the previous models, namely the T-26, BT-7 and the heavy, multi-turret T-28, was canceled to make room for a new medium tank.

Production was also divided, Leningrad supplied the L-11 cannon, Kharkov diesel engine V12, Moscow electrical components and armored hull. The final assembly was carried out at the Stalingrad Tractor Plant.

After July 1941, all vulnerable production centers were relocated to the east. Only the Stalingrad plant remained in place until the very end of the battles at the beginning of 1943 and the surrender of Von Paulus.

T-34-76, model 1940

Various defects were present on the 1940 model. Front armored part of the hull complex shape It was difficult to manufacture, there was a shortage of V12 diesels, so most of the 1940 series tanks were equipped with a Mikulin M-17 engine at Gorky's factory, as well as a temporary transmission with a clutch from there. The original L-11 cannon was criticized for having a low muzzle velocity, so a replacement was created at the Gorky factory - the F-34 cannon. Later it was transferred to production, the very first tanks were equipped with it in July 1941.

T-34-76, model 1941

This model was very different from its 1940 predecessor. Almost everything has been researched and reworked to simplify mass production, such as new gun mounts, a welded turret with a new wide hatch, and a host of other parts.

For ease of production, a single hatch was added, but it also had disadvantages, making a trap from a knocked out tank for the entire crew. This greatly complicated the life of the crew, many fighters felt the lack of comfort, poor ergonomics and a huge risk of being left in a burning tank, whose tower had by that time received the nickname "pie".

The very large tailpipes in the back also proved to be a problem. The tower did not provide adequate protection for the commander, since it did not have a special hatch or periscope. The only heavy hatch at the front had only one vision slit, which could easily get dirty or clogged with mud in combat conditions.

In addition, the commander was forced to load the cannon, since the crew consisted of only 4 people. This was only fixed on the T-34-85.

Later, many tanks received additional armor, for example, on the shielded version of 1942. This had to be done in order to somehow resist the new 88 mm German guns... The armor has been greatly improved over the 1940 model (or "Model A").

Approximately 324 T-34 models were re-armed with the ZIS-4 cannon, which has an excellent projectile speed, were named T-34-57 and were used as tank hunters, for example during the battle for Moscow.

T-34-76, models 1942-1944

Since the standardized machine tools used to manufacture the T-34 were not easily adaptable to new conditions, correcting specific manufacturing deficiencies was severely limited. Many of the tank's features remained unchanged until 1943, despite complaints from their crews and commanders.

Almost everything was done for simplicity, even automatic welding, which made the armor stronger, was introduced to speed up and simplify production. The F-34 cannon was simplified to such an extent that it became necessary to assemble almost 200 parts less (from 861 to 614). The scopes and rangefinder remained raw, despite the fact that there were alternative ones. For example, the F-34 42-caliber cannon and the TMFD-7 sight together with the PT-4-7 panoramic periscope sight could not allow the use of weapons from the same distances as the Germans. This led to offensive tactics based on constant maneuvering and rapprochement with the enemy, while german tanks could stand and shoot calmly, remaining practically invulnerable from great distances.

The lack of rubber prevented the use of normal wheels, the design was constantly changing, many were made of pure metal, which looked very strange together with ordinary tracks. However, in early 1942, an improved Model D turret appeared, an intermediate result from the T-34M project, which was a big improvement over the previous models. Finally, the single large hatch was removed and replaced with detached hatches, and at the end of 1943, a new panoramic commander's sight with an all-round view appeared.

Collection relaunch, Fall 2017. The collection is available by subscription only.
New magazine collection Tank T-34 will allow you to independently assemble an accurate scaled-down model of the famous T-34 tank on a scale of 1:16. Each issue of the magazine comes with quality parts to build your model. Eaglemoss Publishing.

During World War II, the T-34 was the most massively produced tank and became the legendary combat vehicle of the Red Army. He combined high firepower, maneuverability and speed, and played a significant role in pushing the Wehrmacht troops back to Germany.

Model

You don't need any special skills to assemble a unique model. All parts are fastened with grooves and screws. With each release of the collection, you will receive another set of parts and, step by step, will be able to assemble your own model. The metal elements of the future model convey the true power of a real tank, and inside the model looks exactly like its prototype - from the crew compartment to the engine compartment. The tank has interior lighting.

• The model that you have to assemble is made on a large scale - 1:16 and with maximum reliability reproduces the legendary T-34-85 of 1945 with an 85 mm ZIS cannon.
• Moving tracks and wheels, rotating turret with a cannon, detailed interior, opening hatches.
• Every detail is made of high quality material: from metal to high-strength ABS plastic.
• The model corresponds to the tank that took part in the battles in the spring of 1945 against Nazi Germany, as part of the 26th Guards Tank Brigade.
• All parts of the model are already painted.
• To assemble a model of a tank, it is enough to arm yourself with a diagram from a magazine and a screwdriver.

Magazine

Each issue magazine "Tank T-34" describes in detail the next stage of the model assembly. And fascinating stories about the creation Soviet tanks and the development of the T-34 model, will inspire you to create a smaller copy of it.

The magazine contains many exciting essays about the great battles with the participation of the T-34 and about the people who were directly related to the creation of the legendary tank.

Release Schedule

№1 – Parts for assembly – 2017
№2 – Parts for assembly
№3 – Parts for assembly

Up-to-date and review of each issue!

How many issues

Total planned - 120 issues.

Assembling the model in 15 months (8 issues per month)
Set of parts + electronic version magazines - RUB2,312 / month.
Set of parts + magazines - RUB 2,632 / month.

Promotional video

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