For most flower growers, any is considered an essential pet, among which forest Ripsalidopsis occupies not the last place, which everyone can grow at home. This bright "Easter" cactus is similar to some other varieties of thorny plants, however, due to a separate number of characteristics, it is quite easy to distinguish it from its fellows. You can read about planting and caring for it in this article, but for now, look at the ripsalidopsis cactus in the photo:




Proper care of Ripsalidopsis at home

The plant blooms very beautifully, however, for its high-quality growth and abundant color, the cactus must be properly looked after. If under natural conditions it usually grows in the shade of large trees, then indoors this representative of the flora needs a shady corner more - with enough light, but not direct. Proper care of Ripsalidopsis at home includes the obligatory shading of the plant. The direct rays of the sun will be detrimental to the plant.

To properly care for Ripsalidopsis at home, you need to know a few simple but essential nuances. The main ones among them are:

  • Light. In the yard or garden plot, the plant can be planted in the shade of shrubs or trees. In the house, this can be a bright place, but far from direct sunlight.
  • Temperature. These flowers are thermophilic and rather capricious in this regard. In winter, the temperature should be from 16 to 18 degrees Celsius, in summer - from 18 to 23 degrees plus. On the hottest days, the flower can be removed to any cool room in the house - for example, the bathroom, since it can be without natural light for some time, and the dry heat can be fatal for it.
  • Watering. You need to water the plant regularly, making sure that there is no stagnation of water in the pot. In case of severe drought, the flower is sprayed, the humidity of the air should also be as high as possible. During the dormant period, water less and do not spray.
  • Fertilizer. Root and foliar top dressings are carried out 1-2 times a month. For these purposes, use ready-made mixtures intended for forest cacti. Organic fertilizers are not recommended.
  • The soil. This type of cactus needs loose, rough soil. It is necessary to prepare a substrate from a light peat mixture with leafy soil and perlite (or coarse river sand) - with good acidity and permeability.
  • Rest period. October-February - it is this period of time that is considered easy for the plant. With a reduction in watering, the laying of flower buds is stimulated. Already in mid-February, the cactus can be moved to a warmer place and watered more abundantly.

Flowering of Ripsalidopsis begins in early spring and lasts 2-2.5 months. White, pinkish, dark red bright flowers bloom at the tips of fleshy or thinner shoots. At the same time, a very important nuance: it is absolutely impossible to transfer to another place or simply turn the plant when buds appear, since the buds immediately fall off.



With proper care and maintenance in the right conditions, the plant will be able to please its owners for a long time. Even in the photo, Ripsalidopsis looks as impressive and bright as possible, decorating any interior styles and trends.




Reproduction of original cactus species and main dangers

These types of representatives of the plant world reproduce quite simply - the broken segment dries out a little and sticks vertically into the moist ground. After the roots appear, the cactus is planted in the finished substrate. Consider the reproduction of the original types of cactus and the main dangers that lie in wait for the novice grower at this stage.




After flowering, seeds can be obtained from the fruits of the plant, the germination of which can be maintained for a 3-4 year period. However, from seedlings, flowering plants will form no earlier than after 3 years. If you then plant several petioles in one pot, you will get an original and abundantly flowering bush. Several varieties planted together look especially colorful, when each Ripsalidopsis flower differs in brightness and color shades.



The plant is quite resistant to diseases and pests. Spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects can pose a great danger. With a soft and wrinkled green part, it may turn out that the flower lacks moisture. Dark bases and lethargic shoots will indicate rotting of the root system.



Variety of species - Ripsalidopsis pink and other varieties

The variety of species of this forest cactus can provide quality and originality to decorate any type of indoor and outdoor space. The most relevant are the following varieties that are successful in living rooms:

  • Small bushy Ripsalidopsis pink. It has soft pink flowers with a diameter of 5 cm and ribbed segments. Compact and unpretentious, known as Ripsalidopsis rosea.
  • Epiphytic and bushy Ripsalidopsis Gartner. The plant is considered hanging or creeping, 15-20 cm high. Scarlet-red colorful flowers bloom from April to May.

You can quite brightly and originally create a Ripsalidopsis mix by mixing several varieties in one pot or flower bed. By qualitatively and confidently approaching the issue, you can provide a lively, attractive design for any room, courtyard, separate area. There are other varieties that can be seen in the photo below:





Ripsalidopsis.
Ripsalidopsis originate from the coastal foothills of Brazil and Ecuador, where they grow as epiphytes in montane forests.
This is a herbaceous perennial epiphytic leafless plant up to 20 cm high. The stems are prostrate or drooping, strongly branched, segmented, almost rounded in cross section at the base, five-sided above four, pubescent along the ribs. Flowers with a separate petaled corolla about 4 cm long and about 5 cm in diameter, pink, fragrant. The fruits are juicy red berries.
On the stems, to absorb moisture from the air, numerous aerial roots develop, which in the shortest possible time can turn into a normal root system in contact with any nutrient medium. To preserve moisture and nutrients, ripsalidopsis has fleshy stems and wide leaf-shaped plates.
Ripsalidopsis is also called the Easter cactus, as it blooms for Easter. But sometimes people incorrectly call him a Decembrist and are very surprised if he does not bloom in December. In fact, ripsalidopsis are very similar to Schlumbergers, which are called Decembrist and Zygocactus, but Schlumbergers have different stem segments in shape. Ripsalidopsis differ from Schlumbergers not only in the structure of the stems, but also in the shape of the flowers.
If you provide him with proper care, then in the spring for almost 2 months he will bloom with large pink or red flowers. During flowering, plants are also well fed, shaded from the sun. But they cannot be rotated, moved and rearranged - they can drop all the buds.
It looks good in a vertical composition, although it looks no less impressive in pots.
LOCATION
Ripsalidopsis prefers bright, but diffused light, can grow in partial shade. But with a lack of light, there may be stunted growth or yellowing (chlorosis) of the edges of the stems. For abundant and spectacular flowering, the plant needs as much diffused light as possible; it grows well with diffused lighting on windows of western, eastern orientation. On north-facing windows, flowering may not be as abundant. On the southern windows at noon, shading is necessary.
In the summer, the plant is exposed to fresh air, in a bright place, but without direct sunlight.
TEMPERATURE
For the formation of buds in February - March, the plants must be kept at a low temperature (about 10-12 ° C) clutch luk. In March, the temperature is gradually increased to 17-20°C (not lower than 15°C). In summer, it is desirable to keep ripsalidopsis at a moderate temperature (18-20 ° C) in the fresh air.
WATERING
In such plants, the roots are usually underdeveloped, tender, and they do not need either soil rich in organic matter or an abundance of earthen moisture - they will simply rot. During flowering, ripsalidopsis is watered frequently, but so that the water does not stagnate in the pot. When watering, water can (carefully!) be poured directly on the green plates, but not on the flowers. Ripsalidopsis are watered all year round, but during dormancy - from October to February - the intensity of watering is reduced and they are not fed. From February (during the period before flowering) to March, watering is slightly increased and root and foliar top dressings are carried out 1-2 times a month with humus and nitrogen-containing fertilizer mixtures for forest cacti, following the recommendations of the instructions. In no case do not use organic fertilizers to feed ripsalidopsis.
AIR HUMIDITY
Since ripsalidopsis grow in nature, where there is high humidity, the conditions for good growth and flowering must be created appropriately. Excess moisture on the stems is not a hindrance to epiphytes, they love daily spraying and frequent washing with warm water (until buds appear).
FEEDING
During the growth period and during flowering, ripsalidopsis is fed 2 times a month with mineral fertilizers without calcium. Mineral fertilizers are used, diluted by half, it is also necessary to use fertilizers with an average nitrogen content, excess nitrogen is contraindicated for cacti, as it promotes root rot. The optimal ratio of nitrogen (N) is 9, phosphorus (P) - 18, potassium (K) - 24. During the dormant period, plants are not fed.
TRANSFER
Plants require rough and loose soil: coarse-grained sand with rubble without dust, clay-soddy earth with lumps, but without remnants of grass and roots, charcoal and crushed brick without dust. Before planting, the finished soil mixture is subjected to heat treatment (steamed in the oven). For 3-4 liters of this mixture, add 1 tsp. superphosphate and 1 tsp. crushed plaster (slaked lime, chalk). For these forest cacti, soil with a slightly acidic reaction is needed - a pH of 6 to 4.5. The added superphosphate will acidify the soil. Ripsalidopsis are transplanted immediately after flowering: late May-June. Given that the size of the root system is relatively small and they have a high need for air, the dishes should not be deep and not very large. When transplanting, the roots are released from the old earth. With the help of a brush and a stick, carefully (as much as possible) remove the old soil, protecting the roots from damage and breaking off. If the roots are healthy and well developed, the size of the pot is increased by 1.5 times; if the roots are oppressed and small, the pot is not changed or a smaller one is taken. When planting, the roots are evenly distributed over the volume of the pot and carefully covered with soil. When transplanting plants, you can first deepen the stem, then slightly pull it up and finally fill it up and compact the soil by tapping the walls of the pot with your hand. From above, the soil is lightly compacted by hand. The trunk of the plant cannot be buried deep into the ground. The green part is not covered with earth at all - it will rot. Then the plant is watered and placed in a shaded place.
BREEDING
Immediately after flowering, the plant begins to grow vigorously, and it can be transplanted and propagated. Propagation is very simple: just rotate the segment around its own axis - and it will break off. Within 2-3 days it is dried, then placed vertically (not buried), leaning against a support, on moist soil. Very soon, the stalk releases roots, and it is planted in an earthen substrate. With proper care, the next spring the plant can produce several flowers. Ripsalidopsis can also be propagated by seeds. But for this, the flower is first pollinated with pollen from another variety or type of ripsalidopsis. If you pollinate two bushes propagated from one mother liquor, then there will be no positive result. After pollination, a fruit will appear in place of the flower - a reddish or crimson berry, in which there will be black seeds. The berry can remain on the bush for a long time, and the seeds can even germinate inside and turn into small plant balls, which then simply stick into the ground. Cleaned mature seeds remain viable for 3-4 years. From seedlings, a good bush can form only in the 4th year.
DISEASES AND PESTS
Ripsalidopsis, like all living things, are susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often this is expressed in the abscission and drying of plant segments. It is necessary to start examining a suspicious plant from above. Examine the segments for the presence of a light rusty coating and stripes on them. If such spots are observed, check if there are ticks on them (they are rare). It is easy to deal with mites on epiphytes; it is enough to pour hot water (not boiling water) or 70% alcohol on the segments. Plants are not harmful, but ticks are dead.

For a long time, I thought that a Decembrist or zygocactus, if you call it scientifically, lives on my windowsill. A friend gave me a plant, she also introduced me to the basics of care. To be honest, there were no serious problems with him. But then December came, and my flower, apparently not looking into the calendar, stood without a single bud. I attributed his “refusal” to my own mistakes in leaving. But around the middle of March, the Decembrist suddenly acquired buds, and later pretty pink flowers resembling bells. I decided that I got the "wrong" plant. Complained about oddities to colleagues. More experienced cactus lovers enlightened me: my flower is a close relative of the Decembrist, his name is long and complicated, almost like the Egyptian pharaoh - ripsalidopsis. And among the people it was called the "Easter cactus", since the buds bloom in early spring, just in time for this holiday. Caring for it at home is simple, and the flowering plant looks very impressive (you can see this by looking at the photo).

Ripsalidopsis is an Easter cactus, not a Decembrist

The birthplace of most forest cacti, including ripsalidopsis, is the South American tropics. In humid and warm jungles, they feel great, living on tree trunks, stumps, in hollows - wherever a little old foliage and a little bit of soil have accumulated.

Ripsalidopsis is an epiphyte, it is able to absorb moisture from the atmosphere with the help of aerial roots. For climbing plants, the presence of leaves is a luxury, so they atrophied, turning into thin bristles, ripsalidopsis consists only of stems. They, in turn, are divided into flat segments or segments. By the way, their shape is one of the hallmarks of ripsalidopsis.

The shade of the petals of the Easter cactus is very delicate

How to distinguish ripsalidopsis from zygocactus (Decembrist)? At first glance, these plants are similar, like twins. They are indeed relatives. But there are some signs by which even a non-professional botanist can accurately identify them.

Table: differences between ripsalidopsis and the Decembrist

Ripsalidopsis flowers look like stars

The ancestor of domestic ripsalidopsis is accustomed in the jungle to above average humidity and rather poor lighting. It has grown aerial roots to cling more tightly to the tree it lives on and absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Due to their presence, plant cuttings take root very quickly. To survive during a drought, ripsalidopsis has acquired thick, intensely branching stems that serve as a reservoir for a supply of moisture and nutrients.

Ripsalidopsis shoots are a chain of flattened, fleshy segments, about 3 cm wide and 4–6 cm long. The color of the stem is usually light green, but with an excess of bright light it becomes reddish. Inflorescences appear at the ends of the shoots. The more magnificent the "crown" of ripsalidopsis, the more buds are formed. The color of flowers in nature is limited to different shades of pink and red. Then the plant gives fruits - scarlet five-sided berries, they contain seeds.

Modern scientists have recently made another change in taxonomy. According to the latest classification, the genus Ripsalidopsis has been abolished. The species included in it are assigned to the genus Hatiora (Hatiora) and are considered a subspecies of Rhipsalidopsis. Therefore, now in stores, ripsalidopsis is sometimes called in a new way - hatiora.

Photo gallery: options for placing ripsalidopsis in the house

Easter cactus looks spectacular in a flowerpot-basket A compact variety of Easter cactus looks good on a windowsill A large ripsalidopsis bush can be placed directly on the floor A ripsalidopsis bush is a decoration of a flower arrangement

Easter cacti have been grown as houseplants for decades. Their popularity is due to ease of care, exotic appearance, duration of flowering. Ripsalidopsis can be grown as an ampelous plant, placed in a hanging planter or on a high stand. Then the arched shoots will droop picturesquely. Another option is to simply put the Easter cactus on the windowsill, compact varieties are suitable for this.

From white to orange: popular varieties

Now breeders have created many varieties of ripsalidopsis with a wide variety of flower colors. They can be pink, burgundy, red, purple, orange, and even white, which you never see in nature. Some hybrids are generally variegated. The most common varieties of Easter cactus:

  • Ripsalidopsis Gartner. Medium-sized bush, up to 20 cm in height, with drooping, strongly branched stems. Segments with wavy margin and small setae slightly pubescent. It is convenient to grow it as an ampelous plant. The flowers were originally red. Now many varieties of Gartner's ripsalidopsis have been bred with a different color. Variety Nina - purple buds and flowers; Eliza - burgundy buds, flowers - rich red; King's Dream - neon pink flowers with a pink-orange border; Sirius and White Magic (White Magic) - snow-white inflorescences.
  • Ripsalidopsis pink. Plant with stems about 30 cm, segments with serrated, 4-5 cm long. Star-shaped flowers, pink, with a bright yellow center and fragrant. Mini size bush.
  • Ripsalidopsis Andromeda. Large (5-6 cm in diameter), maroon-pink flowers, orange in the center. They last quite a long time.
  • Ripsalidopsis Auriga. He is often mistaken for a Decembrist. It has drooping long stems with short segments. The flowers are large, red-orange.
  • Ripsalidopsis Phoenix. Easily recognizable by the flowers. They are large, pale pink with an orange core, shaped like a star. Blooms very luxuriantly and for a long time. Runs are short.

Ripsalidopsis grown at home - photo

Ripsalidopsis Andromeda - flowers shimmer with different shades of pink and lilac, like a sunset in the tropics Ripsalidopsis Auriga stands out with a shade of petals, flowers look like flames Ripsalidopsis Phoenix differs in flower size and duration of flowering Ripsalidopsis White magic - very pure, snow-white tone of petals Ripsalidopsis Sirius flowers really look like stars Ripsalidopsis Scarborough - unusual golden-orange flowers

How to create optimal conditions for the plant at different times of the year

Ripsalidopsis is a cactus, but a forest one. It does well in humid and warm climates. But the plant is undemanding to lighting. Unlike distant relatives, desert cacti, ripsalidopsis in nature lives in partial shade under a canopy, which is formed by intertwining tree branches.

Table: optimal conditions for growing ripsalidopsis

From the end of September to the first decade of February (rest period). Temperature: not higher than 15–17ºС.
Lighting: bright, diffused. Better to avoid direct sun. Suitable windows on the east or west side. Can be located in the north.
Humidity: high. Spray the plant. Do not allow drying and waterlogging of the earthy coma.
The second half of February - mid-March (preparation for flowering). Before bud formation: temperature is cool, watering is scarce.
With the appearance of buds: increase the temperature, increase the watering.
Do not disturb the plant: you cannot move or even turn the pot so that the buds do not die.
End of March, April, May (flowering time). Temperature: 18-22ºС.
Watering: plentiful, as the soil dries, only with soft, rain or melt water.
June, July, August, first half of September (active vegetation period). Location: Take the plant to the garden, terrace or balcony. Shade from direct sun.
Watering: moderate, after the soil has dried.
Humidity: The higher the better. Spray the plant.
Temperature: 17-20ºС, gradually reduce. Protect from drafts and temperature fluctuations.
Watering: moderate, reduce in October.

Ripsalidopsis blooms luxuriantly if it has managed to build up a green mass. And that requires light. In autumn and winter (until February), periodically turn the pot so that the “crown” is relatively symmetrical. When it's time to start budding, stop moving the ripsalidopsis so it doesn't get stressed and shed future flowers.

Video: how to create the right microclimate for a flower

Transplantation and preparation for it

Once you have ripsalidopsis, give it a little attention. It's worth starting with a plant transplant. To do this, you need a new pot, wide and low, with large holes for water to drain. The roots of an epiphytic cactus do not take up much space, and they need a constant supply of air. The land in which the plants in the store are kept is no good. Prepare a new substrate. Ripsalidopsis prefers slightly acidic, not very fertile, rough and crumbly soil:

  • special soil for growing succulents and cacti;
  • sheet, sod land, sand, charcoal or broken brick, coconut fiber (4:4:2:1);
  • clay-soddy earth, charcoal, small brick chips (5:1:1);
  • leaf earth, peat, perlite, chopped sphagnum moss (3:2:2:1).

Drainage is required in any case. Disinfect the soil before planting. If you prepared the mixture yourself, increase its acidity. For 3-4 liters of soil, add a teaspoon of crushed chalk and superphosphate.

The soil in which ripsalidopsis grew in the store is categorically not suitable for the development of the plant.

Young ripsalidopsis requires a transplant every year, this should be done after flowering, in May. Cacti older than four years are disturbed less frequently, about once every three years. Large specimens in one pot can live up to five years.

When choosing a container for transplanting, give preference not to a deeper, but to a wider new pot. If the roots of ripsalidopsis have grown significantly, then increase its volume by about half.

  1. At the bottom of the new pot, pour drainage - expanded clay or broken brick. Above - a little prepared substrate.
  2. Carefully remove the ripsalidopsis from the pot, shake off the soil (but do not rinse).
  3. Transfer the plant to a new container, distribute the roots and sprinkle with fresh substrate. Remember: ripsalidopsis has a superficial root system, it does not need to be deeply buried.
  4. Compact the earth a little with your hands. Do not overdo it, the cactus loves loose soil at the roots.
  5. After transplanting, water the plant, provide it with high humidity, and especially carefully protect it from direct sun for 7-10 days.

Care for pleasure

Caring for ripsalidopsis is a pleasure. The plant is picky. The only thing it cannot do without is a rather high humidity, which must be maintained almost all year round. We will tell you about this and other secrets of care.

How to ensure high humidity?

It is not so difficult to fulfill the main condition imposed by ripsalidopsis on the microclimate. Here are a few ways to arrange mini-tropics in a separate corner of the apartment:

  • Place a pot of Easter cactus in your kitchen or bathroom if the latter has a window. In these rooms, the air is already humid. Keep away from radiators and other heating devices.
  • Spray the plant often with warm water. The best option is a fine spray that creates a suspension in the air.
  • Put ripsalidopsis next to other flowers with the same need. For example, an excellent neighbor is Asplenium. Then it will be more convenient to carry out water procedures, and the humidity will last longer.
  • Fill the tray with a pot of cactus, wet pebbles, expanded clay, or sphagnum moss. Water its contents as it dries.
  • Place the pot in a waterproof container filled with peat moss or sphagnum moss. Moisten the substrate regularly.
  • Place an indoor fountain, aquarium or humidifier next to the plant.

Ripsalidopsis loves moist and fresh air.

Do not be afraid of waterlogging the air. Firstly, it will not affect the overall atmosphere in the apartment. Secondly, it is even useful, especially in winter. After all, you spend a lot of money on moisturizers for the skin. So take advantage of the tropics you create for your forest cactus. Bloom with it in spring!

Spare no water in summer

Ripsalidopsis is watered unevenly throughout the year. Changing needs are related to the life cycle of a plant.

During flowering, the Easter cactus requires abundant watering. The soil must not dry out. Both the substrate and the stems are moistened with warm water, but do not pour it on the flowers, otherwise they will quickly die. Do not allow moisture to stagnate by draining excess from the pan.

After the completion of flowering, the plant begins to intensively increase the green mass, watering is also required abundant. The motto of your ripsalidopsis: a lot of moisture, but no overflow.

The closer the rest period, the less water the Easter cactus needs. From the end of September to the second half of February, the soil in the pot is moistened only slightly. But it should not be an overdried earthen lump either.

Water for ripsalidopsis should be warm and soft. Boiled, filtered or settled water is suitable. Ideally - rain or melt.

During the active growing season, ripsalidopsis should be supported with mineral supplements. Natural organics do not suit him. Use ready-made liquid fertilizers for cacti with a reduced nitrogen content. Its excess provokes root rot.

Add fertilizer to irrigation water every two weeks. On the eve of the dormant period, food is reduced. Do not fertilize ripsalidopsis in winter.

When the Easter cactus begins to "wake up" (around the end of February) do the first foliar feeding by adding fertilizer to the spray water.

Bouquet of ripsalidopsis for Easter - we provide flowering

Ripsalidopsis is not grown for greenery. The owner dreams of getting a lush bouquet of flowers from this cactus for the Easter holiday. I must say, even on the eve of flowering, the plant looks beautiful. The buds give it a very attractive look. And when it is in full swing, a nondescript cactus in winter miraculously transforms beyond recognition. Flowers averaging about 4 cm in size are located at the ends of the stems. Each areola gives from one to three buds, and sometimes, if the ripsalidopsis is well rested, and 7-8.

Ripsalidopsis blooms in spring - just when after a long winter you want bright colors

In nature, flowers do not differ in a variety of shades: from pink to dark red. Breeders brought cacti with purple, orange and white petals. But this is enough. Ripsalidopsis flowers are very bright, they seem to glow from the inside.

The plant blooms for about two months. At this time, he should not be disturbed, the buds will fall off. Then a fruit can form - a soft berry with seeds. Growing it at home is difficult. To do this, you have to take on the role of a bee. Moreover, pollen must be borrowed from another plant. It turns out that in order to "harvest" the fruit, you need at least two ripsalidopsis.

Proper care is the key to lush flowering and the absence of diseases in the plant.

Not everyone manages to achieve abundant flowering from ripsalidopsis. One of the main reasons for the lack of buds is that the plant has not accumulated strength. In the summer months, the cactus did not breathe plenty of fresh air, did not receive enough nutrients and water. So, did not grow new stems. In winter, when the plant was supposed to rest before flowering, you did not create the necessary conditions for it.

And it happens that ripsalidopsis has already formed buds, and you decide to change the location of the pot or simply turn it on the other side to the window. And the flowers stopped developing, dried up and fell off. When dealing with forest cacti, follow the main rule: do not make sudden movements, do not fuss around the pot in the process of bud formation.

Hibernation

Hibernation for ripsalidopsis begins early. Around October, the flower gradually goes to rest. And he should “doze off” until the beginning of February. But how well the sleep of the Easter cactus depends on its owner. The plant needs a low temperature, about 15-17ºС. It is necessary to exclude top dressing, water moderately. Humidity should be at 60%.

High-quality hibernation is a prerequisite for the formation of buds and flowering of ripsalidopsis. At the end of winter, “wake up” the cactus by gradually increasing the air temperature, watering, and feeding.

Typical florist mistakes

Not a single grower, especially a beginner, is immune from mistakes. Improper care negatively affects the decorativeness of the plant. But the flower, by its appearance, unequivocally signals that it does not suit him. You just need to learn how to decipher the signs given to them.

Table: errors in the care of ripsalidopsis

Problem Cause elimination
Sheds stem segments, buds and flowers. Waterlogging of the soil, too dry air or cold drafts. If the potted substrate looks like a swamp, reduce watering. Humidify dry air by all available methods. Cover the plant with a draft shield.
Doesn't bloom. Nutritional deficiency during the growing season and / or non-compliance with the conditions during the dormant period. Follow the rules for caring for the plant. Provide nutrition during active growth and coolness during dormancy.
The stems are fading. There are yellow-brown traces of burns on the plates of the segments. Too bright sunlight. Remove ripsalidopsis from the window, shade the plant in summer.
Stem segments wither, become soft, die off. Perhaps the root system is affected by rot. This occurs at low air temperatures, combined with a lack of light and waterlogging. Examine the roots of the plant. Remove damaged, healthy, treat with a solution of potassium permanganate. Transplant to a new substrate. Provide bright but diffused light, adjust watering.

The deterioration of the appearance of ripsalidopsis is an unambiguous hint of individual grower errors

Common plant diseases and pests

The fleshy stems of ripsalidopsis are an attractive breeding ground for insect pests and pathogenic fungi. Easter cactus can be attacked by spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and they can be affected by fusarium and late blight.

Table: the most common diseases and pests of ripsalidopsis

Cause How to recognize? Way to fight
spider mite It feeds on the juice of the plant, sometimes a white cobweb and red-brown spots appear. Spray the plant with acaricide (Fitoverm, Neoron, Apollo) following the instructions.
Mealybug On the stems is white, sticky fluff to the touch. Remove visible pests with a damp cloth, gently wipe or spray the stems with a solution of alcohol or insecticide (Mospilan, Tanrek).
Shchitovka Hard brown grey-brown corymbs on stem segments. Wipe insects with a damp cloth, treat the plant with an insecticide (Phosbecid, Metaphos). It will take 3-4 procedures.
Fusarium Stems turn yellow from bottom to top. The root neck turns black. Spray the plant with systemic fungicides (Topaz, Vectra) or Bordeaux liquid. For prevention, before planting, disinfect the soil by calcination, and the roots with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.
late blight Violet-brown spots on stems, increasing in size. Soft rot appears, the shoots are deformed. If detected in time, remove the affected part, sprinkle the sections with activated charcoal. Treat the plant with Fitosporin-M, Fundazol, Previkur, transplant, replacing the soil and pot. If nothing is done, the cactus will die. It is better not to use cuttings (even healthy ones) from such a plant for propagation.

Another name for the flower comes from the preference to bloom in spring (April, May). During these months, the main holiday of Christians - Easter. Therefore, Ripslidopsis is sometimes called the "Easter cactus."

Just the time of flowering it differs from its fellow cactus Schlumberger, which on New Year's Eve can also be called a "New Year's cactus." There are also other differences. In order not to be deceived when buying Ripsalidopsis, remember them. After all, the Schlumberger cactus is our all-familiar “Decembrist”.

Differences:

  • "Decembrist" blooms in December-January;
  • Ripsalidopsis blooms in April-May;
  • In Ripsalidops, the protrusions of the shoots are smoothed, in Schlumberger, the shoots are serrated.
  • Different dormant periods: in the first cactus it occurs from mid-October to January, in the second - from February to March;

The height of Ripsalidops does not exceed 30 cm. The stems of the "Easter cactus" consist of smooth or slightly ribbed segments that are oval in shape and rather fleshy to the touch. The segments grow up to 6 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. The cactus branches well, small areoles are located on the upper segments - the beginnings of future flower buds. As well as its relative Schlumberger, thin aerial roots can be seen between the segments, with which, under natural conditions, they cling to a support. Ripsalidopsis flowers are star-shaped, semi-double. Up to three buds can grow from one areola. The stems of the cactus are emerald green, but if the plant is in a brightly lit place for a long time, then a thin burgundy border appears along the edges.

Kinds

Ripsalidopsis Gartner (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri)

The plant has the shape of a shrub with drooping green stems. The height of the cactus is small, about 20-25cm. The segments are longer and narrower than in other species. In length up to 7-8 cm, and in width no more than 2-2.5 cm. The edges of the segments have three or four rounded protrusions. The upper segments have areoles on the protrusions, pubescent with brown villi. Flower buds begin to open gradually, starting in mid-spring. Flowers have a bell-shaped base and petals, pointed at the ends, scarlet or crimson. Now many varieties have been bred with different petal colors: variety Nina with lilac buds and flowers; grade Eliza with burgundy buds and carmine flowers and another wonderful variety Sirius with snow-white flowers and some others.


Ripsalidopsis Gartner

Ripsalidopsis pink (Rhipsalidopsis rosea)

A bushy cactus with bright green stems that do not change color regardless of the light. The segments are small. They can be either flat or slightly ribbed. Flowers in diameter grow up to 6 cm and have a pink, very beautiful shade. The base is bell-shaped, the petals are pointed, with a slight downward bend.


Ripsalidopsis pink

Ripsalidopsis Aurigo orange (RhipsalidopsisAurigia orange)

This Ripsalidopsis is often confused with the "Decembrist" in the shape of the segments. It has drooping long shoots with rather short segments. It blooms later than other cacti of its kind, but the flowers are distinguished by a rich orange color. Sometimes there are plants in which the color of the petals turns red at the edges.


Ripsalidopsis Aurigo orange

Ripsalidopsis Andromeda (RhipsalidopsisAndromedia)

An artificially bred variety with a bushy shape with long dark green shoots. Decorative at any time of the year. But it is especially beautiful at the time of flowering - large fuchsia-colored flowers with an orange center. Flowering in comparison with other species is quite long.


Ripsalidopsis Andromeda

Ripsalidopsis King's Dream (RhipsalidopsisKing’ s dream)

The variety was bred by breeders from the natural species of Ripsalidopsis, it has all the maternal characteristics. An ampelous type of plant with long hanging shoots and bright pink flowers with an orange border of petals. Looks very nice in hanging pots.


Ripsalidopsis King's Dream

Ripsalidopsis white magic (RhipsalidopsisWhite magic)

Derived from Gartner's Ripsalidopsis. The bush is low, up to 30 cm. The segments are of medium length, have rounded protrusions. The segments are very dense and plump. But it stands out from all with boiling white flowers. It blooms not for long, but quite plentifully. Timely removal of wilted flowers will help prolong flowering and decorative appearance.


Ripsalidopsis white magic

Care

Watering

  • Ripsalidopsis needs abundant watering at the time when flowering begins.
  • When the topsoil dries up even 2 cm deep, you should immediately pour it with soft or purified water with a household filter.
  • As soon as the flowering period of the cactus stops, watering must also be reduced, by autumn in cold weather - reduced further.
  • The water from the pan must be immediately poured out. Excess water and cold temperatures can lead to root rot.

Lighting

Since Ripsalidopsis comes from tropical forests, it does not like bright sunlight. He is better suited to the western and eastern windows. If it is not possible to place the cactus in comfortable conditions, then you need to shade it with a light cloth, you can also use a paper screen.

When grown on the north side, the plant will not suffer much damage, you only need to turn the pot from time to time so that the stems stretch evenly. Flowering on the north side will not be as plentiful as on the windows of the other direction.

You need to turn Ripsalidopsis until the buds appear. After the appearance of buds, the cactus cannot be rotated, no matter where it stands. Otherwise, the plant may drop buds and there will be no flowering.

Temperature

The plant does not like sudden changes in temperature.

  • In the spring and summer, he is comfortable at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. Does not tolerate prolonged heat. But if your apartment has air conditioning, then put the flower away from it.
  • In early autumn, you need to lower the temperature to 10-12 degrees. If it is difficult to do this in a living room, then take the plants to a glazed balcony or loggia, if there is the required temperature.
  • During the dormant period (October - February), you need to maintain a low temperature of 12-15 degrees to ensure abundant flowering next year.

Humidity

In the dense rainforests of Brazil or Ecuador, where Ripsalidopsis comes from, it is very humid, as warm showers often pour. A lot of damp evaporation accumulates under tall trees. To create a semblance of such climatic conditions, you need to work a little:

  • In the morning and evening, spray the cactus, trying not to fall on the flower petals, otherwise brown spots form on them. You can not spray in the daytime, so that the rays of the sun do not burn the plants through the droplets of water. Burns are hard to heal.
  • When the plant is not blooming, on hot days, you can arrange a warm shower. The pressure should not be intense, because some species of this cactus have very fragile shoots, the segments are weak to hold on to.
  • During the dormant period, it is worth limiting yourself to wiping the dust with a damp sponge and arrange a pot in a wider pallet, in which to lay artificial moss or expanded clay. Moisten the filler with small portions of water. Do not allow water to enter the roots through the pan - this can lead to their decay.

The soil

You can choose the soil in a flower shop. Please note: the acidity of the substrate must be indicated on the packaging. For Ripsalidopsis, it should be in the range of pH 5.5-6 units.

The substrate should be loose, breathable and contain large pieces of organic matter. You can make your own cactus mix. For this you need to take:

  • 1 part of sod land (possible with a small amount of clay);
  • 2 parts of leafy soil or garden humus;
  • 1 part fine gravel (or crushed and washed gravel);
  • a little crushed charcoal, zeolite or fine brick chips;
  • Mix everything thoroughly and add superphosphate to acidify the soil.

Transfer

Cacti are transplanted at the moment when the plant is just preparing for budding or after flowering. Young Ripsalidopsis are transplanted annually, increasing the capacity by 1-2 cm. Adult plants need to be transplanted once every two to three years.

A flowerpot for a cactus should be chosen wide, but not deep, since the roots are mainly located in the upper part. The roots must be carefully freed from the old soil and placed evenly in the new pot. Sprinkle fresh substrate on top, gently pressing it to the root system.

top dressing

Flower shops sell special fertilizers for succulents and cacti. Of these, you need to choose a fertilizer where as little nitrogen as possible. An overdose of nitrogen will cause root rot.

The best combination of chemical dressings:

  • nitrogen - 9;
  • phosphorus - 18;
  • potassium - 24.

Feeding Ripsalidopsis begins in the spring, during the growing season, and ends in the fall, before the start of winter dormancy. During the dormant period, the plant should not be fertilized.

reproduction

Ripsalidopsis can be propagated in three ways. The two traditional seeds or cuttings, and one - for professional flower growers - grafting on the rootstock of prickly prickly (leaf cactus).

  • For beginners, it is better to use more traditional methods. For breeding seeds you need to prepare a greenhouse. The substrate for the greenhouse can be prepared from equal parts of leafy fertile soil and coarse river sand (thoroughly washed). The germination of seeds is quite long, so when buying, you can not be very upset if you get last year's bags. You need to plant seeds in moist soil and be sure to cover with polyethylene or glass to create a microclimate. From time to time, the greenhouse needs to be ventilated, the sprouts need fresh air. Only when the young shoots are well strengthened can they be planted in real pots with a ready-made substrate. You need to plant 3-4 sprouts so that the bush is fluffy.
  • Multiply cuttings very convenient during pruning when forming a crown. All apical shoots must be dried, then put in a pot with a moist soil mixture, without dropping, until roots appear. Then plant 3-4 shoots in suitable containers. The rest of the care is like for adult plants.

pruning

Pruning is carried out in the third or fourth year, when the shoots stretch and bend down, thereby exposing the middle of the bush. Trimming is carried out at the border of the connection of the segments. If the cactus is ampelous and you need to tame some of the shoots, they can also be used for planting material. The apex will gradually acquire new segments with apical areoles, which in the future will give buds and flowers. And the lower shoots will be even and neat.

Bloom

Flowering at Ripsalidopsis begins in the spring. Some species and varieties have a long flowering. Others bloom for only a few days, but very profusely. Sometimes it happens that the cactus does not grow and does not release buds for flowering - this means that it did not have enough lighting or the soil substrate was poor in nutrients. If you notice this in early spring, try moving to a location with more light and feeding the plant. The cactus may bloom, but later than its usual schedule. If the buds appear, you can not rotate or move the plant - in this case, it can drop the buds, and you will not wait for flowering.

Most often, the lack of flowering is due to the lack of a proper rest period in winter. Violation of the temperature regime, abundant watering, all this leads to a sad result.

Diseases and pests

Most often, Ripsalidopsis is affected by spider mites, scale insects and false scale insects, mealybugs. All these harmful insects hide from the underside of the leaves. If there are not many of them, then you can limit yourself to rubbing a solution of laundry soap with water. You can use an infusion of garlic or calendula.

  • During the procedure, it is necessary to cover the surface of the soil with a film so that the pests do not remain in a place accessible to the plant. It does not hurt to wipe the window sill with a disinfectant solution.
  • If the flower is large and some leaves may be missing, treat the plant with an aerosol insecticide. They are sold in flower shops or in the garden and garden departments.
  • Ripsalidopsis loves moisture, which means it can be exposed to a variety of fungal and bacterial diseases. You can notice the disease by the grayish color of the leaves and by slippery weeping spots. If the lesion is small, use a fungicide. But it is better to choose healthy shoots and root them. So you will definitely save the type of cactus you like.