Homemade sheet bender is assembled from simple parts that any locksmith can carve. With the necessary parts, it will take only half a day to make your own manual bending machine. Most of the elements of the bending fixture are made from metal waste. Metal bending devices are in no way inferior to factory ones, but cost almost nothing. Based on the presented drawings, it is possible to make a more powerful analogue that qualitatively performs bending of steel up to 3 mm thick.

Design Description

This model of a metal bending device easily copes with tin, the bends are obtained quite accurately. Painted metal can also be bent.

The base of the machine is welded from channel No. 6 or No. 8. Depending on the length of the future apparatus, the length of the channel is selected. For small work, 50 cm is enough. To bend the iron at an angle exceeding 90 degrees, a clamp is made from the corner. Such bending angles are used in the manufacture of folds.

The clamp is welded: the basis of the design is the corner 50 x 50, reinforced 35 x 35. The thickness of the corner shelves must be at least 5 mm, otherwise the clamp will be too weak. A clamp of such power will cope even with a length of a manual bending device up to 150 cm. The sheet is bent up to 135 degrees, this is enough to form folds. The length of the clamp should be 7 cm less than the base. Fasteners-brackets from a 3 x 3 corner are welded onto the ends. If the bracket is made from a larger corner, the clamp length is reduced by another 2-3 cm. With such dimensions, the spring is freely placed below.

The edges of the clamp are set clearly parallel to the frame, without burrs. Therefore, they are cleaned with a cutter or file, it is convenient to clean the edges with an angle grinder. The cleaning wheel removes protruding burrs and defects.

An opening with a diameter of 0.8 cm is sawn through the center of both brackets. The crimping punch is made from corner No. 5, the length of which is 5–8 millimeters less than the length of the clamp. The handle for the punch is made of a 14 mm metal bar, bent in the form of a bracket, and fixed to the punch. Cheeks are cut out of metal 0.5 cm, sawn through one hole with a diameter of 1 cm in each.

You can further strengthen the knot by cutting a 6 x 7 mm shelf around the edges and a 14 mm hole. Take the rod for the handle a little thinner - 12 mm.

Chamfers 30 x 5 are cut from the edges of the punch at the ends, to which the axes from a 10 mm metal rod will be fixed. The axis of the rod must coincide in direction with the edge of the corner. Near the ends, a 32 x 6 chamfer is made on the lower edge.

Pre-installation

Before you finally weld the structure, you must set all the details in the right direction and check the performance of the structure. Therefore, light temporary fasteners are made first. The frame together with the punch is fixed in a vice. The moving part and the frame must form a common horizontal. The cheeks are mounted on the axis and pointwise mounted on the frame. It is convenient to use clamps instead of welding. As soon as the temporary fasteners are ready, the clamps are removed and mobility is checked. If the amplitude of the punch is sufficient, the clamps are tightened and finally boiled.

It is advisable to remove the structure from the vice after the welding has completely cooled down, otherwise it may lead.

Device testing and final fine-tuning

Check the operation of the bending machine on thin pliable metal. The material for bending is installed in the device, the clamp is tightened with clamps. It is necessary to check the correct placement of the cheeks in relation to the frame. To do this, perform several bends and correct if necessary. If the cheeks are installed correctly, they are finally welded to the bed.

Using holes in the clamping brackets, holes are made in the base with a diameter of 8 mm with an M10 thread. The holes already prepared in the clamp are increased to a diameter of 1 cm. Bolts are screwed into the holes in the base (threaded) from the bottom up, the caps are welded.

The clamp is attached to the frame with nuts with obligatory washers. It is more convenient to operate the nuts in the form of handwheels (plumbing). So that during unscrewing the clamp is pressed, springs or rubber shock absorbers are installed on the bolts. Valve springs work well.

As a result of simple operations, an inexpensive, easy-to-operate and reliable machine is obtained. It also has a few small downsides:

  • the fastening of the cheeks and the punch is not well thought out. In this node, during operation, the metal interacts with the metal and gradually frays. After a while, the mechanism begins to play. The sheet of metal is not bent clearly enough.

The method of correcting the disadvantage of a manual bending mechanism: the use of bearings in this assembly.

If you plan to bend a large amount of sheet metal, the drawings of the upper clamp will have to be slightly modified; on the presented work, the work is performed quite slowly.

In the original version, the sheet bender easily makes metal boxes 2 mm thick, forms folds, and copes with painted sheets.

You can make a bending machine with your own hands, without using any drawings, from scrap metal. There are specimens up to 2.5 m long, which perform up to 350 m of ferrous metal bending per day. Professional tinsmiths often prefer a homemade factory-designed bender.

More complex, manual roller benders can also be made independently according to the drawing. It is important here that the weight of the device is not too large, because it is controlled with one hand. Roller structures have one drawback - during rolling, small sections of sheet metal can be deformed. A bend is formed by stretching the surface. Therefore, most tinsmiths prefer not to work with them.

A few more models of manual bending machines with a detailed description of the nodes in the videos:

A press brake is a device where cold bending of sheet metal is performed in various ways. By and large, creating a bending machine with your own hands (drawings and a description of how to make such a unit will be described in the article) is possible, but this, as a rule, will be a manual fixture, occasionally a mechanical one. Nevertheless, such a machine will be an invaluable help in the household, because with its help various designs will turn out more beautiful.

Homemade press brake

Types of bending machines

Stationary hydraulic sheet bender

Plate bending machines can be both stationary and mobile (portable) and can be divided into three categories:

  1. Press.
  2. Swivel.
  3. Rotary.

But all these units can be classified according to the drive, which can be:

  • hydraulic (stationary and mobile);
  • pneumatic (stationary and mobile);
  • electromechanical (stationary);
  • mechanical (stationary);
  • manual (mobile).

Note. The workpiece can be fed manually or automatically, and the dimensions are marked either manually or by CNC (Computer Numerical Control).

A few words about the application

The scope of application of the machine is quite extensive

For some reason, there is an opinion that the sheet bender is a construction machine, but this is not entirely true or even not at all true. In fact, such units are used in mechanical engineering and the automotive industry, in instrumentation and for the creation of aircraft. This is not a complete list of its application, but the main task of such machines is the production of any products from various (non-ferrous and ferrous) sheet metals.

Production of a press brake

It can be said that manual sheet bending, driven by the use of the muscular strength of the worker, is the most convenient unit for the repair and construction of facilities. It can be applied directly to the place where it is needed at a given time, and then quickly transferred to another point.

How to draw up a technical task plan

First of all, don't scatter. And this means that there are many articles, photos and videos on the Internet about this, but in each case individual details are needed. Therefore, before you decide to draw up a work plan, decide on the technical characteristics, and these are:

  • maximum allowable sheet width in mm;
  • maximum sheet thickness in mm;
  • the range of bending angles you need;
  • bending accuracy;
  • dimensions of the machine (length, width, height).

Video: homemade sheet bender

If everything is clear with the width (the sheet is rarely wider than 1000 mm), then with the thickness it’s not quite, for example, sheets with a thickness of no more than a millimeter are used for seam roofing. Gutters have the same thickness, but when it comes to railings for stairs or other fencing, here the thickness can reach 3 mm.

Note. If the metal turned out to be narrower than it is required for the manufacture of something, then it can always be seamed on the same machine. Folding should not be confused with rolling, since the second option requires special rolling rollers that sheet benders do not have.

Sheet bending machine, drawing

Do-it-yourself sheet bender - drawings and a description of how to do it:

  1. Roller knife. It is best made from alloy steel, and if necessary, replaced with a new one.
  2. Back table. Serves for placing the workpiece. A cutter and a bender are held on its supports.
  3. Wooden stand. Serves to prevent the workpiece from slipping. The height of the stand is adjustable.
  4. Front stops. Allows you to set the width of the cut.
  5. Corner stop and measuring plate. It allows you to vary the angle and the bend will turn out to be arbitrary, that is, the one that is required in a particular case.

Perhaps the most difficult moment in drawing up a plan can be called the choice of the required range of angles when bending metals. But, as it were, with such structures, the maximum bending (depending on the rotary beam) can only reach 135⁰, but if necessary, bending up to 180⁰ can be done. One or another thickness of the sheet is determined by the power of the clamping frame - the more powerful the frame, the thicker the metal can be bent.

The choice of the kinematic scheme of the machine

One of the do-it-yourself sheet bending options

You can dwell on different options in the manufacture of such a mechanism, but it is best to prefer the most popular scheme. In such cases, the bending of the sheet is carried out by turning the movable traverse - everything is very simple and very reliable.

Most popular design

Drawing No. 1

  1. Wooden pillow.
  2. Support beam (channel section 100-120 mm).
  3. Cheek from a sheet 6-8 mm thick.
  4. Preparation for processing.
  5. Clamping beam from corners 60-80 mm (connected by welding).
  6. Smooth reinforcement with a section of 10 mm, as an axis for the rotation of the traverse.
  7. Traverse (corner 80-100 mm).
  8. Device handle (smooth reinforcement with a section of 10 mm).

In order to make the machine work more efficiently, its design can be improved, as shown below.

Drawing No. 2

In this drawing, all nodes are considered in more detail, therefore, one can more clearly imagine the design of a home-made sheet bender.

  1. Homemade clamp. An angle of 40-60 mm and a screw with a heel were used.
  2. Cheek.
  3. Machine beam from a channel.
  4. Pressure beam bracket made of 110 mm angle.
  5. Clamping beam.
  6. Axis of rotation.
  7. Traverse.

Complete structure

Note. This section shows a more powerful design, which is assembled according to the same principle as in the upper drawings #1 and #2.

Drawing of the assembled sheet bending structure

You can compare these drawings and make sure that they are basically the same, only the last one was made with an increase in power and operational life.

  1. The wooden support beam is reinforced with a sheet of metal.
  2. Threaded flywheel element.
  3. The beam for clamping the workpiece is reinforced.
  4. Clamp.
  5. Traverse for bending the workpiece.
  6. Channel for additional fastening of the support beam.

Note. On the drawings, you can see the pressure flywheels, but it is extremely difficult to find them for sale. Therefore, when assembling a bending machine, you can make a home-made device. These are ordinary screws with collars welded to them. Only at the end of welding work should the thread be renewed with a lerkoy, since in most cases it will be clogged with metal spatter.


Video: how to make a sheet bender yourself

Conclusion

We hope that you have received an answer to the question of how to make a bending machine with your own hands at home and figured out the types and classification of machines. As you can see, the manufacturing process is not so complicated, but it requires the necessary materials, which should be stocked up ahead of time.

A variety of plate bending operations are an important part of the overall construction or renovation of your own home. Without the use of special equipment, it is impossible to perform them qualitatively. For one-time bending of sheet blanks, it is permissible to rent a suitable fixture from a neighbor or acquaintance. But with frequent performance of such procedures, it is more expedient to have a manual sheet bending machine of your own manufacture at hand. If you have certain skills, tools and premises, making a homemade bending machine is not so false.

Preparation of terms of reference

Thanks to the capabilities of the Internet, you can quickly find the necessary set of drawings, and on the YouTube channel you can even watch promotional and informational videos about the device and the principle of operation of the required unit. However, all these materials are strictly individual, and therefore were intended by their authors for specific sheet-bending operations. Therefore, before building a sheet bender with your own hands, you need to make the right choice of its future technical characteristics. The main ones should be:

  1. maximum width of bent metal, mm;
  2. the greatest thickness of the workpiece, mm;
  3. desired range of bending angles;
  4. overall dimensions of the mechanism (length, width, height);
  5. required bending accuracy.

The direct choice of the limit values ​​of the listed parameters depends on the conditions of use of the machine, which will bend sheet metal products. In particular, when constructing a roof, you will most likely have to deal with galvanized sheet or steel with a thickness of no more than 1 mm. When processing copper, an even thinner sheet or strip is more often used, and when making fences and railings with your own hands, on the contrary, the thickness of the metal can be 2-3 mm.

When choosing the optimal width of a workpiece - sheet or strip - one should proceed from the fact that the width of the part rarely exceeds 1000 mm (in extreme cases, adjacent workpieces can then be joined into a fold using the same machine).

The most difficult point of the technical task is the choice of the optimal range of metal bending angles. If everything is clear with the upper limit - 180 °, then the lower value should be chosen very competently. A natural consequence of bending most sheet metals in a cold state is springback - a spontaneous decrease in the actual bending angle due to the elastic properties of the deformed metal. Springing depends on:


How to choose the kinematic scheme of the bending machine

The most accessible for do-it-yourself machines are machines in which sheet metal will be bent as a result of turning a movable traverse. The principle of operation of such a machine is as follows.

The workpiece to be bent is installed on the guide plane of the lower table of the machine and fixed on the stop, which is fixed on the support frame of the device (it is desirable to provide for the stop to be adjusted).

In the frame guides of the sheet bender, the upper traverse reciprocates, which, when moving downward, clamps the bent product with its ruler.

In front of the lower table is a swivel beam that can rotate around its axis. Turning can be done with a lever-operated handle, but a foot-operated version can be made. In the latter case, the operator's hands remain free, which facilitates the manipulation of the workpiece when it is pressed against the ruler of the upper traverse. In addition, with foot control of the bender, hands get tired less.

The set of bending tools on the upper and rotary beams can be changed. The easiest way for this purpose is to order a set of punches and dies with the required bending radii and standard seats. You will have to send all the details to the order - a ruler, clamp, etc. - which will require qualified milling work for their manufacture.

The bevel of the top beam will determine the largest value of the bend angle that the sheet metal can change its axis to.

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  1. steel channel number from 6 and above;
  2. a set of steel corners intended for the manufacture of the support frame of the machine with your own hands;
  3. thick-plate broadband steel, from which the rotary, upper and lower beams will be made;
  4. fasteners in assortment;
  5. a bar for the manufacture of a manual lever drive for turning the beam.

To facilitate the work, you can also use a bench vise, guides from a decommissioned lathe, as well as massive hinges from steel entrance doors.

By a similar principle, you can make a homemade sheet bender using wooden parts. True, he will be able to bend only aluminum and sheet steel (up to 1 mm thick), but in many cases these possibilities are quite enough, and the laboriousness of building a sheet bender with his own hands will noticeably decrease. In particular, there is no need for welding operations. It should be noted that the working parts of such a machine should only be made of hardwood (pine, spruce are not suitable).

Having decided on the principle of operation of the sheet bender, you can also search for suitable drawings. However, a person with an engineering education will be able to make a set of drawings on their own. The advantage of this option is that a number of working drawings are quickly modified and processed for specific capabilities and source materials.

The drawings of the sheet bender must take into account the way it is installed. For small units, for example, the bending machine can be mobile or even portable. Otherwise, you will have to make a stable base using welding, otherwise the excessive mobility of the machine will reduce the accuracy of work on it.

When the machine is ready, it is necessary to check its performance and accuracy. To do this, bend a test strip of thick cardboard of the required thickness. If the bend is made correctly, then the height of the strip shelves will be the same, and there will be no traces of the deforming tool on its surface.

You may also be interested in articles:

How to make a wood planer with your own hands How to make do-it-yourself wood trimming machines How to make a pipe cutter for steel pipes with your own hands How to make a zig machine with your own hands?

Where do you get metal parts of various shapes? The answer is to buy ready-made or make your own. Finished metal parts are much more expensive than the cost of a metal sheet, and to make them yourself, you need a special machine. You can make a bending machine with your own hands, having some tools, materials and, of course, those very “golden hands” available. The videos and drawings presented in our article will also come in handy.

Isn't it easier to buy a sheet bender?

The most pressing question is bending machine price. The cost of factory plate bending equipment is high. Such an expense is advisable only if you purchase such a machine for making money, otherwise it will not pay for itself.

In addition, most of the machines of this kind are designed to bend sheets up to 3 m wide. Such a unit cannot be called universal, firstly, it will not fit into any garage, and secondly, the mechanical drive is inconvenient for delicate work, and hydraulics complicated and costly. Thirdly, the energy costs for the manufacture of small parts will not justify themselves.

It remains only the option with a manual drive, which you can make yourself!

The simplest do-it-yourself sheet bending machine

Building a homemade manual bender will save you money and be a real godsend whenever you need it. deal with sheet metal. Fortunately, on the Internet you can find a variety of drawings with descriptions. All offered models are different, but you can find something in common in the design of all variants of any bending machine:

By the way, all parts do not have to be made of metal, wood can also be used. The strength of wood is sufficient to process thin aluminum or iron sheets. Ordinary wood for this, of course, is a bit soft, it is better to take hardwoods like oak, ash, walnut, etc. But in the extreme case of the simplest garage bending machine, pine material is also suitable.

For the basis take the presented drawings:

  1. We strengthen the tree with metal corners or sheets of metal;
  2. Where real strength is needed is the hinges for the machine, with the help of which its bending link moves;
  3. If the bending link is a decent size, then you won't even need a weight frame to apply the right amount of pressure to the thin metal sheet;
  4. The crimping punch should be fixed with wing nuts, most importantly, put washers under them;
  5. To work with sheets of different thicknesses, you can make blanks of several punches, in which grooves of different thicknesses;
  6. To bend metal sheets at 90 degrees, it is necessary to equip a restrictive surface with an inclination of about 5 degrees. Otherwise, it will be impossible to make a perfectly right angle.

Secret! To make precise bends, you need to make a file in the intended place of the bend, which will direct the process in the right direction.

Do-it-yourself manual sheet bender for thick sheets

For the manufacture of parts from thin sheet metal, the simplest version of wood and a minimum of metal elements will fit. Whereas for processing thick sheets, powerful channels and corners will be needed. The structural elements are the same as in the previous bending machine: base, clamp, lever and crimping punch.

Material for manual sheet bender:

  • Channel No. 6.5 or No. 8 is suitable for the base;
  • For clamping, we take channel No. 5;
  • For a punch, you need a corner No. 5 with the thickest possible walls;
  • For a lever handle, fittings with a diameter of 15 mm are suitable;
  • Rod 10 mm, sheet metal for "cheeks".

Although the design in principle does not differ from the first option, one cannot do without a welding machine.

Let's get to work:

Finishing parts

Some recommend simply walking along the clamp with a file or, even more outlandishly, with a grinder. However, you must be aware that such processing of the clamping plane will not give perfect accuracy - the allowable the roughness of this element is only 0.2 mm. A file cannot achieve such accuracy, and with poor-quality processing, your sheets will be wavy after bending.

For home use, this will still fit, but if you decide to do any work professionally, then this is unacceptable. There is only one way out - to give the clamp for milling, but this must be done after the final assembly. When all the nuances that could appear have already appeared, then milling will really help to align everything to a decent result.

As you can see, in a garage you can make wonderful manual bending machines. Choose the option that you need and do it yourself simple machine for thin metal l for a more serious machine made of channels and corners for working with thick sheets. Drawings with a step-by-step description and a master class on the video will help you. We advise you to heat the sheets at the bends so that the work can be done even more quickly and easily.

How to make a sheet bender with your own hands

A variety of plate bending operations are an important part of the overall construction or renovation of your own home. Without the use of special equipment, it is impossible to perform them qualitatively. For one-time bending of sheet blanks, it is permissible to rent a suitable fixture from a neighbor or acquaintance. But with frequent performance of such procedures, it is more expedient to have a manual sheet bending machine of your own manufacture at hand. If you have certain skills, tools and premises, making a homemade bending machine is not so false.

Model of a homemade sheet bender

Preparation of terms of reference

Thanks to the capabilities of the Internet, you can quickly find the necessary set of drawings, and on the YouTube channel you can even watch promotional and informational videos about the device and the principle of operation of the required unit. However, all these materials are strictly individual, and therefore were intended by their authors for specific sheet-bending operations. Therefore, before building a sheet bender with your own hands, you need to make the right choice of its future technical characteristics. The main ones should be:

  1. maximum width of bent metal, mm;
  2. the greatest thickness of the workpiece, mm;
  3. desired range of bending angles;
  4. overall dimensions of the mechanism (length, width, height);
  5. required bending accuracy.

The direct choice of the limit values ​​of the listed parameters depends on the conditions of use of the machine, which will bend sheet metal products. In particular, when constructing a roof, you will most likely have to deal with galvanized sheet or steel with a thickness of no more than 1 mm. When processing copper, an even thinner sheet or strip is more often used, and when making fences and railings with your own hands, on the contrary, the thickness of the metal can be 2-3 mm.

When choosing the optimal width of a workpiece - sheet or strip - one should proceed from the fact that the width of the part rarely exceeds 1000 mm (in extreme cases, adjacent workpieces can then be joined into a fold using the same machine).

Drawing homemade bending machine

The most difficult point of the technical task is the choice of the optimal range of metal bending angles. If everything is clear with the upper limit - 180 °, then the lower value should be chosen very competently. A natural consequence of bending most sheet metals in a cold state is springback - a spontaneous decrease in the actual bending angle due to the elastic properties of the deformed metal. Springing depends on:

  • Plasticity of the material: for example, for low-carbon steel, the maximum springback angle is 5 - 7 °, and for high-carbon steel - up to 10 - 12 °. Alloy steels and alloys spring even more. In particular, for aluminum alloy AMg6, the greatest springback can be 12-15°;
  • The thickness of the bent part: with a decrease in the thickness of the metal, the springback decreases;
  • Bending angle: as this angle decreases, the springback of almost all metals increases. In particular, at relatively small bending angles (up to 15–20°), it is generally impossible to bend a workpiece from most types of sheet metals and alloys by the usual method to a given value: it is necessary to use aggregates with simultaneous longitudinal stretching of the sheet. It is impossible to make such machines with your own hands: you will need to install and debug a special hydraulic drive. Therefore, in such cases, it is easier to bend the part with the usual blows of a mallet on, for example, a wooden matrix.

Drawing diagram of a homemade sheet bender

How to choose the kinematic scheme of the bending machine

The most accessible for do-it-yourself machines are machines in which sheet metal will be bent as a result of turning a movable traverse. The principle of operation of such a machine is as follows.

The workpiece to be bent is installed on the guide plane of the lower table of the machine and fixed on the stop, which is fixed on the support frame of the device (it is desirable to provide for the stop to be adjusted).

In the frame guides of the sheet bender, the upper traverse reciprocates, which, when moving downward, clamps the bent product with its ruler.

In front of the lower table is a swivel beam that can rotate around its axis. Turning can be done with a lever-operated handle, but a foot-operated version can be made. In the latter case, the operator's hands remain free, which facilitates the manipulation of the workpiece when it is pressed against the ruler of the upper traverse. In addition, with foot control of the bender, hands get tired less.

The set of bending tools on the upper and rotary beams can be changed. The easiest way for this purpose is to order a set of punches and dies with the required bending radii and standard seats. You will have to send all the details to the order - a ruler, clamp, etc. - which will require qualified milling work for their manufacture.

The bevel of the top beam will determine the largest value of the bend angle that the sheet metal can change its axis to.

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  1. steel channel number from 6 and above;
  2. a set of steel corners intended for the manufacture of the support frame of the machine with your own hands;
  3. thick-plate broadband steel, from which the rotary, upper and lower beams will be made;
  4. fasteners in assortment;
  5. a bar for the manufacture of a manual lever drive for turning the beam.

To facilitate the work, you can also use a bench vise, guides from a decommissioned lathe, as well as massive hinges from steel entrance doors.

By a similar principle, you can make a homemade sheet bender using wooden parts. True, he will be able to bend only aluminum and sheet steel (up to 1 mm thick), but in many cases these possibilities are quite enough, and the laboriousness of building a sheet bender with his own hands will noticeably decrease. In particular, there is no need for welding operations. It should be noted that the working parts of such a machine should only be made of hardwood (pine, spruce are not suitable).

Having decided on the principle of operation of the sheet bender, you can also search for suitable drawings. However, a person with an engineering education will be able to make a set of drawings on their own. The advantage of this option is that a number of working drawings are quickly modified and processed for specific capabilities and source materials.

The drawings of the sheet bender must take into account the way it is installed. For small units, for example, the bending machine can be mobile or even portable. Otherwise, you will have to make a stable base using welding, otherwise the excessive mobility of the machine will reduce the accuracy of work on it.

When the machine is ready, it is necessary to check its performance and accuracy. To do this, bend a test strip of thick cardboard of the required thickness. If the bend is made correctly, then the height of the strip shelves will be the same, and there will be no traces of the deforming tool on its surface.

You may also be interested in articles:

How to make a zig machine with your own hands? How to make a wood planer with your own hands How to make a jointer with your own hands How to make a pipe cutter for steel pipes with your own hands

We make a sheet bender with our own hands from improvised materials

When working with tin, two main tools are used. Metal shears and sheet bender.

Of course, when making a gutter for the roof of a barn, you can use the old-fashioned way - tap a galvanized sheet on the edge of a workbench with a mallet, or use a metal corner.

Examples of such work can be seen on the roof in the private sector. However, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, and the metal is damaged at the site of impact.

In addition, artisanal bending of metal is only suitable for simple structures. If the bend profile has several multidirectional edges, you cannot do without a professional tool.

For example, you can’t bend the right ridge for a roof “on your knee”, and the appearance will always remind you of the negligence of the owner.

Buying an industrial bending machine is an unforgivable luxury. The work of the master is afraid - we will tell you how to make such a useful device in private households with your own hands.

To understand the process, consider the types of sheet benders:

The second name is three-roller. The machine is used to create smooth curved surfaces - large diameter pipes, semicircular drains and other structures without sharp corners. Works on the principle of a rolling machine. The sheet is profiled between two supporting rollers and one thrust roller, when moving which the workpiece bending radius is set.

Bending press

The workpiece is placed between two punches (templates), under high pressure they close, giving the necessary shape to the sheet of metal. Typically used for thick workpieces. Useless for home use.

Traverse mechanism

The principle of operation of the design is that the workpiece is clamped with a ruler-lock, and the movable traverse bends the edge to the desired angle. Perhaps the most popular type of sheet benders.

They exist as industrial stationary machines. as well as manual desktop devices. In fact, it has no restrictions on the bend angle - from 0 to 180 degrees. The width of the processed sheet is determined by the length of the traverse.

This is the only design flaw. It will be problematic to bend a single rolled strip several meters long at home. But you can quickly make a composite structure of any length with bends for splicing the ends.

With traverse structures, a bending knife is often used, which is included in the delivery.

End knives of roller type are intended for high-quality alignment of the edge of the workpiece.

Roller plate bender

It would be more correct to call it a manual end face bender. Although with the help of a roller mechanism, it is possible to bend workpieces far from the edge. The process is just too inconvenient. They are mainly used as an auxiliary device.

How to make a homemade sheet bender

The simplest design is to clamp the edge of the sheet between the steel corner and the rule (or two corners) with a clamp, and bend the workpiece with your hands. This is how the simplest elements of the roof are usually created.

IMPORTANT! All work with metal must be carried out in protective gloves.

However, it is quite possible to make a traverse bending machine yourself. Requires accuracy and patience.

The design and principle of operation are visible in the drawings.

Consider the assembly step by step.

For the manufacture of a traverse bending machine, we need:

  • 4 meters of steel corner, side - 50 mm;
  • Ball joint for car, with mounting bracket;
  • The stabilizer rod from it, with a diameter of 10 mm;
  • Bulgarian, drill, electric welding.

We cut the corner with a grinder into pieces of 1 meter.

If there is a need to work with metal of greater width, the length of the corners increases. At least 100 mm must be added to the width of the working surface.
Using the angle grinder, we cut out two lugs from the ball joint bracket. These will be the working loops of the movable traverse.

From the stabilizer bar - we make an axis on which the hinges will rest.

IMPORTANT! The future play of the rotary mechanism depends on the quality of the fit of these elements.

We carefully measure and mark a sample on the corner for mounting the axis.


Strictly in size, we grind the flats for installing the axle shafts. This must be done as accurately as possible so as not to waste time and material on subsequent adjustment.

We apply the markup exactly in the center of the axis, and combine it with the top of the corner - the traverse. This moment is important. because if the alignment is incorrect, the quality of the bending of the workpiece on the machine will deteriorate, or the bender will be unsuitable for work.

We weld to the semi-axis samples in compliance with the parallelism to the top of the corner. To improve accuracy, when welding, use a jig. For example, vise and clamp. The length of the protruding part of the axis does not exceed 1 cm.

The result should be a structure with perfect alignment at the ends.

We put the corners to each other.

We mark up the sample on the second corner strictly opposite the axes of the first corner.

The corners relative to each other should be located as follows:

We fold both traverses, observing the plane, and fix them for welding. We weld the loops on the second corner on both sides.

The corners should rotate freely relative to each other on hinges. When turning 180 degrees, there should be no hooks and wedging. In this case, the gap between the traverses should be minimal.

The clamping area will be located as follows:

Having previously marked out, we cut out with the help of a grinder a selection around the axis on the clamping corner.

The underside of the clamping angle is ground at an angle of 45 degrees.

IMPORTANT! The edge should remain perfectly flat, it is along it that the fold line will pass. In case of unevenness, creases and folds on the workpiece are possible.

Opposite the axes, we mark and drill holes for 10 mm bolts. We weld the bolts with the thread upwards to the lower fixed traverse.

We also make a hole in the center of the traverse, but do not weld the bolt. This will be a removable element, so we weld a short axis to it in a T-shape.

Bolts are needed to press the workpiece to the traverse when bending. The central bolt is used when the workpiece is half as wide as the traverse. When working with wide workpieces, the bolt is removed.

From a circle of 15-20 mm we cut two handles 30 cm long. A thinner rod will not work, since the force on the handles can be significant, and you can simply bend them.

We weld the handles from the bottom of the swivel corner (traverse).

Next, we make a frame for a sheet bender. We weld the fourth corner to the lower fixed traverse on both sides, for strength. We drill holes in the frame. The entire structure must be fixed on a stable surface, for example, on a steel workbench.

We fasten the bender to the workbench, check the free movement of the movable traverse.

The design allows you to work with iron sheets with a thickness of up to 2 mm and a width of 92 cm. The bending angles can be chosen to any value, the workpiece can be bent both in one direction and in steps. When working with a thick workpiece, the handle is extended with a metal pipe, the strength of the corner is always enough.

Working with standard galvanizing does not cause difficulties, the device bends it with the ease of cardboard.

Accessories

For convenience of work, the clamping corner can be spring-loaded, and wing nuts can be used instead of ordinary nuts. It is convenient to work on such a device with a roller knife, using the upper clamp as a guide ruler.

Temporary structure according to a simplified scheme

The considered version of the bending machine is made for regular work, and is actually a stationary device. If you urgently need to perform one-time work on the manufacture of tin products, you can create a simpler device.

For manufacturing you will need:

  • Three corners 40-50mm, width according to your needs;
  • Pair of door hinges;
  • Two powerful clamps;
  • Two rods (circles) as handles.

Two corners are fastened together with loops, as tightly as possible.

The third, shorter corner, with the help of clamps, presses the workpiece and the lower traverse to the workbench. Such a machine is not very convenient, but this is offset by ease of manufacture. The manufacturing option is up to you.

Video instructions for making a homemade sheet bender

An interesting article on how to assemble a pipe bender with your own hands. Available diagrams and drawings, as well as a video and a detailed description of the assembly.

This video is not available.

How to make a sheet bender with your own hands?

In this video, I show how you can make such a machine yourself.
See the bender in action here: http://youtu.be/8-IJfK4RGBk
What can be done with this machine: http://youtu.be/66Tsl5nVKus
We take a metal corner, a grinder and cut the corner into pieces. We weld the axle and two supports with a semiautomatic device or a welding machine, sequentially. We grind a 45-degree edge on the clamping corner so that the metal can be bent further. Handles are made of round timber with a diameter of 20 mm. I made it in such dimensions, since I don’t need it longer. It is possible to make the unit larger according to this principle, but it will be necessary to take a more powerful corner so that it does not bend during operation and the manufactured forms of the workpiece are not distorted. Making a sheet bender is not difficult, everything is detailed in the video. I deliberately took the ball joint and the stabilizer link, since I simply do not have other materials available. As they say, manufacturing from past materials. The table is made of a corner, and we attach our bending machine to it, using two through holes and two bolts. After installing the bender in its permanent place, it remains only to paint it, to give it an aesthetic appearance, and so that it simply does not rust. Make and work for health.
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Sheet bending machine - we make a manual bending machine with our own hands

It is not difficult to make a bending machine with your own hands, but so far a few home craftsmen and specialists who use bent sheet steel products in their activities are engaged in the manufacture of such equipment for their own needs. Meanwhile, such a device, which has a sufficiently high reliability and ease of operation, will help to save a lot.

One of the most affordable sheet benders is the domestic LGS-26, the price is about 38 thousand rubles. We will make it cheaper and optimize for your needs

Especially the manufacture and use of a bending machine is relevant for those who need to perform technological operations for bending sheet material not daily and in large volumes, but periodically.

Types of sheet benders and their design

Before you start making a homemade manual sheet bender, you should clearly define the list of tasks for which it is necessary. It will depend on the main purpose of such a device according to which scheme it will be executed.

The simplest is a fixture in which sheet metal is bent using a special traverse. By means of such a device, it is possible to easily bend a sheet of metal at an angle of 90 degrees, using only the strength of the hands without additional devices, if the width of the sheet does not exceed 0.5 meters. The base of the sheet is fixed with clamps or in a vice, and its bending is carried out due to the pressure exerted by the traverse. In some cases, to obtain a bend angle of exactly 90 degrees, you may need an embedded spacer (in the figure - on the right), which is an ordinary strip of metal that will help compensate for the elasticity of the sheet.

The most common scheme for a homemade sheet bender

More complex in design is a press brake, the design of which is a matrix and a punch. Sheet metal in such a device is located on the matrix, and the punch is lowered onto the workpiece from above, giving it the required profile. At home, a press brake is unlikely to find application, as it is quite complicated and unsafe to use.

Scheme of work of a press brake

A version of a home-made press brake working in tandem with a self-made hydraulic press. If you already have a press, then it will not be difficult to supplement it with devices for bending narrow sheets of metal. You will get something like this:

Homemade press brake option

A bending machine is much more perfect, in which metal bending is carried out due to the action of three shafts on it. Such equipment is called pass-through. One of its main advantages is that its adjustable rollers allow you to get different bending radii. Such a tool for bending metal can be manually or electrically driven, and its rollers can have a different design.

According to this scheme, the majority of factory bending machines from the lower price segment are made

  • Rolls with a smooth working surface are designed for most sheet metal work, which involves bending blanks, making sections of pipes with a large diameter, etc.
  • Profiled rolls are necessary for bending elements of roof structures (ridges, valleys, drains, flanging, etc.).
  • The broaching bending machine can be additionally equipped with a support, a clamp and a traverse, which allows it to be used for manual bending of workpieces.

Such machines are equipped with a set of shafts of various profiles, which can also be purchased additionally to make the equipment more versatile.

How to start making a bending machine

To make a sheet metal bending machine, you will need a drawing of such a device or detailed photos of it. In addition, a number of important factors should be taken into account, such as the effort that will need to be applied to use the bending machine, its weight and dimensions (on which mobility depends), cost and availability of components. As a result, we obtain the following initial parameters.

  • The maximum width of the sheet that will need to be bent is 1 m.
  • The maximum thickness of sheet material: galvanized - 0.6 mm, aluminum - 0.7 mm, copper - 1 mm.
  • The number of work cycles that will be carried out without readjustment or repair is 1200.
  • The maximum bending angle of the metal profile, obtained without manual finishing, is 120 degrees.
  • It is highly undesirable to use workpieces made of special steels (for example, stainless steel).
  • In the design of the bending machine, welded joints that do not tolerate alternating loads should be avoided.
  • You should limit as much as possible the number of parts of the bending machine that you will need to order on the side, resorting to the help of turners or millers.

It is very difficult to find a drawing of a device that would satisfy all these requirements, but it is possible to refine the most successful of them.

The most popular sheet bender design and its improvement

The design of the manual bending machine shown in drawing No. 1 can be easily improved. According to the above drawing, it can be seen that the sheet metal bending device consists of such elements as:

Drawing No. 1: To build our bending machine, we will apply this scheme

  1. pillow made of wood;
  2. support beam from a channel 100–120 mm;
  3. a cheek, for the manufacture of which a sheet 6–8 mm thick is used;
  4. processed sheet of material;
  5. clamping beam made of corners 60–80 mm, connected by welding;
  6. axis for the rotation of the traverse (made from a metal bar with a diameter of 10 mm);
  7. the traverse itself is a corner with dimensions of 80–100 mm;
  8. handle of the device, made of a bar with a diameter of 10 mm.

At the traverse of the sheet bender (point 7), which, according to the original drawing, is supposed to be made from a corner, a variant of execution from a channel is conventionally shown. Such a modernization will significantly increase the endurance of the traverse, which, when using a corner, will inevitably bend in the middle at a certain moment and stop creating a high-quality sheet fold in this place. Replacing with a channel will allow you to do not 200 bends without straightening or replacing this element (which is very little with more or less active work), but more than 1300.

The design of such a homemade plate bending machine can be further improved, which will make it more efficient and versatile.

Drawing No. 2: The main elements of the sheet bender

Drawing No. 2 allows you to understand in more detail the design of a home-made bending machine:

  1. homemade clamp, made from a suitable corner (40-60 millimeters) and a screw with a heel and a collar;
  2. cheek;
  3. channel, acting as a support beam of the machine;
  4. clamping beam bracket, made from a corner of 110 millimeters;
  5. the clamping beam of the sheet bender itself;
  6. axis of rotation of the traverse;
  7. the traverse itself.

Reinforcing the pressure beam

Below we will consider the scheme of strengthening the clamping bar. However, if you initially have a fairly massive corner as a clamp, and you do not plan to bend excessively thick sheets on your bending machine, then it is quite possible to do without reinforcing the clamping bar in the described way.

Whether it is worth messing with the increased clamping depends on the operating conditions of the machine

In order to extend the service life of the clamping beam and make it comparable to the service life of the traverse, this structural element, which was originally made from a corner according to the drawing, should be supplemented with a base made of a metal strip with dimensions of 16x80 mm. The front edge of this base must be given an angle of 45 degrees in order to align its plane with the plane of the clamping corner itself, and a chamfer of about 2 millimeters should be made directly to the working edge of this element.

In drawing No. 2, the received part in the section is indicated in the additional figure at the top right. These measures will allow the clamping metal to work not in bending (which is highly undesirable), but in compression, thereby multiplying the service life without repair.

An additional 60th angle, welded to the rear flange of the main pressure angle, will keep it from bending up. In drawing No. 2, this is shown in more detail in the additional figure at the top left.

You should also take care of milling the lower plane of the pressure beam, which forms the fold. The unevenness of this plane, according to generally accepted rules, should not exceed half the thickness of the bent workpiece. Otherwise, it will not work to bend the workpiece evenly, without a swollen fold line. It should be borne in mind that the beam should be given for milling only when it already has all the welds, since their implementation leads to a change in the geometric parameters of the structure.

We increase the reliability of machine mounts

There is another big drawback in the bending machine - the scheme for attaching it to the desktop. The clamps that are provided in this fixture are a very unreliable fastening option, especially considering the rapid fatigue of welds. Such fasteners can be completely dispensed with, which will also avoid the need for welded joints and cheeks. The following steps allow you to solve this problem:

  • the manufacture of a support beam that will protrude beyond the desktop;
  • making U-shaped eyes at the ends of the support beam;
  • fixing the support beam to the work table with bolts (M10) and shaped nuts with paws.

If there are no cheeks in the improved bending machine, then how to attach a traverse to it? You can solve this issue quite simply: use butterfly door hinges for this, which are usually used for hanging heavy metal doors. To fix such loops, providing a sufficiently high accuracy, you can use screws with a countersunk head. In drawing #2, this is further illustrated at the bottom right.

It is possible to bend many workpieces on a bending machine with a traverse attached to butterfly loops, since these loops are very reliable.

Complete structure

After assembly, an improved device for obtaining a metal profile looks like this:

Listogib in assembled form

  1. reinforced support beam;
  2. flywheel - threaded element;
  3. a beam that provides clamping of the workpiece;
  4. clamp for attaching the device to the desktop;
  5. traverse, with the help of which, in fact, you can bend the workpiece.

The drawings show pressure flywheels, which in practice few people have. More often use ordinary screws with welded knobs. After welding the knobs, it is imperative to drive the thread on them, since welding can affect it extremely negatively.

Drawings of another version of the sheet bender

Detailed drawings of a bending machine very similar in design, but differing in the fastening of the traverse. The diagrams show the dimensions, which, of course, can be changed depending on the intended use of the machine.

Another version of the sheet bender: the traverse is raised

Support beam Support beam drawing Traverse end face Traverse drawing
Clamping beam Drawing of the clamping beam General view of the assembly Clamp attachment

What is a zig machine and how to make it

A zig machine (or a zigovochny device) allows you to bend stiffener edges on sheet metal products, which are called zigs. Such machines belong to the category of special equipment and can be made with electric or manual drive. Manual zig machines, also fixed with a clamp, can be quite compact in size and carried in a regular bag for working tools.

Manual zig machine with interchangeable rollers

Such devices make it possible to make high-quality flanging in one pass not only on round products (the same shells of metal containers), but also on straight metal sheets. These devices are simply indispensable in the manufacture of individual parts of roof structures.

A variety of zigovochny rollers and their purpose

The working elements of the zig-machine are rollers, and its use allows you to significantly save on the purchase of factory-produced roofing elements. If you watch a video showing the operation of such a device, it becomes clear that you can use it even at the place of direct installation of the roof structure.

To choose the right fixture for the manufacture of bent sheet metal elements, you can follow the following recommendations.

  • For a home craftsman who needs a bending machine from time to time, a simple device made from improvised means is quite suitable.
  • Those who from time to time fulfill orders for the installation of a roof will need a manual sheet metal bending machine and a simple zig machine.
  • Professionals who are constantly engaged in the manufacture of elements for roof structures and tin work need a factory device for bending sheet metal.
  • A manual machine for the production of corrugated board is useful for those who are professionally engaged in the manufacture of elements of roof structures. Optimal for such specialists is professional equipment, which is characterized by higher reliability and durability.

Russian-made sheet bender SKS-2in1, price 64 thousand rubles

If your plans still include the active use of a home-made bending machine to work on a more or less large flow, then be prepared for the fact that at some point your production may stop due to a breakdown. Since the steel used by home craftsmen for the production of do-it-yourself bending machines, most likely, will not withstand high loads, will quickly get tired and just float.

But for a household, not particularly loaded application, a home bending machine will be an excellent helper and will save a lot of money. It is necessary to take this moment into account and not expect miracles of endurance and performance from a simple home-made machine.

Before making a bending machine with your own hands, you can not only study the numerous drawings of such devices posted on the Internet, but also watch the training video. Perhaps, for some, the size of the described bending machine will seem too small, then you can consider the option of a home-made bending machine of a larger format. Of course, this is no longer a mobile machine, it is suitable for a small private workshop:

Advantages of a homemade sheet bender

Do-it-yourself production of a bending machine or the purchase of a manual through-pass bending machine are often interested in those who want to save a lot on the purchase of mass-produced corrugated board. Simple theoretical arithmetic shows: if you independently bend corrugated board with the help of such a device, then the cost of the latter will be 40% lower compared to the cost of factory products. But not everything is so simple.

Factory through metal bending machine MetalMaster, cost 62 thousand rubles

If you purchase a factory-run machine for manual type corrugated board with an eye to small-scale own production, then it will cost about 60 thousand rubles. Meanwhile, such a manual sheet bending machine does not guarantee the stable quality of the corrugated board obtained with its help. The problem is that rolling in one pass will most likely lead to the appearance of overdrawn corners, from which cracks can subsequently develop. And rolling one sheet repeatedly, gradually changing the degree of pressure, is too long, laborious and, as a result, unprofitable. But on the other hand, it is quite convenient to make simpler parts from sheet steel with its help.

For a full-fledged Chinese-made rolling line for corrugated board, you will have to pay about $ 20,000. Of course, it consumes a lot of electricity (from 12 kW) and its installation requires a large area, which clearly does not fit into the plans and budget of most home craftsmen.

Rolling mill for corrugated board at work

The most important thing to consider when purchasing a bending machine is the possibility of its quick payback. To achieve this for a master who uses such a device privately is quite difficult. In this case, it is more advisable to use a home-made sheet bender, which is suitable for the manufacture of bent sheet products of any type. With the help of such equipment, it is possible to bend both sheets with standard dimensions and non-standard products, which are in great demand during roofing, as well as many others.

How does a bending machine work

Before wondering how to make a bending machine, you should understand the design features of such equipment. First of all, such devices differ in the type of their drive. So, there are devices with a mechanical, electrical, hydraulic and manual drive.

Mechanically driven bending machines may use a flywheel with a friction clutch and a crank or a system of pulleys, levers and cables with a falling weight. Such devices, characterized by a shock impulse at the beginning of the working stroke, which then gradually weakens, are far from ideal in terms of the quality of the result due to the mechanics of their work and are used less and less.

Electromechanical three-roll bending machine DURMA

The efficiency of sheet metal bending equipment, which is equipped with an electric drive, drops markedly with an increase in load in the form of a decrease in the size of the workpiece or an increase in its strength. If you try to bend a hard metal workpiece (for example, stainless steel) on such a bending machine, you may encounter the fact that the rotor of the electric motor will begin to slip, reducing torque and increasing power consumption.

Precisely adjusting the developed force to the resistance of the workpiece allows equipment with a hydraulic drive, but it is not cheap. A conventional hydraulic jack, which can also be used as a drive for bending sheet metal, does not provide an even distribution of force from it along the entire length of the bend.

To summarize all of the above, it turns out that a manual bending machine is the best option for home craftsmen. It can be made in various designs.

In the manufacture of metal structures from profile pipes, the need for bending them often arises. Arched ceilings, greenhouse frames, playground elements - this is just a small list of objects that require the installation of rounded profiles. In production, special equipment is used to produce pipes with a given radius of curvature. Given the bulkiness and high cost of such machines, it is not advisable to purchase them for occasional domestic use. For a home workshop or garage, a profile bender can be made by hand. Everything you need for this can be found in the same workshop or found in the garages of friends and acquaintances. Interested in this design? Then put on your work clothes and get to work!

Profile bending machine. What is it for?

Universal production bending machine

The purpose of the roll forming machine is indicated by its name. This is the bending of metal profile pipes in order to obtain a certain radius of curvature in the required area or along the entire length of the workpiece. Using a profile bender, or in other words a pipe bender, you can perform several technological operations with rolled metal of various types:

  • bending metal bars or fittings, including spring steel blanks;
  • bending of profile metal-roll of square or rectangular type;
  • getting knees from round pipes or bending them at the right angle;
  • rounding of parts of any length from long products (corners, I-beams, channels).

There are several models of bending machines. Some allow you to apply effort only on a certain section of the workpiece. Others roll the pipe between rollers, applying pressure along the entire length. For some reason, it was the latter that received the name "profile benders" from specialists, although both of them directly relate to equipment of the same type. By the way, rolling the workpiece allows you to obtain a product of complex configuration without preheating, and bends can be made at an angle from 1 ° to 360 ° in arbitrary planes.

Roll type profile bender

Just like industrial counterparts, self-made profile benders are electrically driven or run on muscle traction. Of course, the use of an electric motor makes it possible not only to facilitate the processing of workpieces, but also to significantly speed it up.

Profile bending classification

Depending on the type of drive, which, in turn, directly affects the power and productivity of the machine, profile benders are divided into several types.

Hydraulic machines

Profile bending machine with hydraulic drive. Powerful and very expensive

Hydraulic pipe benders are industrial equipment, therefore they have high power and are designed for stationary installation. Such units are used mainly in small-scale and mass production, when it is required to obtain a large number of the same type of workpieces. The hydraulic drive completely removes the load from the operator, giving him the ability to control the machine by pressing buttons.

Advantages of hydraulic machines:

  • high speed of work;
  • complete absence of manual labor;
  • ease of operation;
  • the possibility of bending a profile of a large section.

The disadvantages of devices of this type include high cost, stationary design and complexity due to the use of a hydraulic drive.

Electric profile benders

Electric profile bender with screw drive. Inexpensive and functional

Bending machines that use electric motors are also stationary equipment, since they require an electrical connection. The electric drive is usually combined with a screw gear, which reduces the cost of equipment, but also makes it impossible to bend large section profiles. That is why such machines are found in small enterprises and even in private workshops. By the way, there are designs of home-made devices with an electric drive that function in no way worse than factory counterparts.

Advantages of electric profile benders:

  • relatively low cost;
  • workpiece processing speed;
  • simplicity of design;
  • high bending accuracy;
  • the possibility of using digital technologies for machine control.

The disadvantages include the same lack of mobility and the inability to bend oversized profiles.

Manual machines

Manual profile bender. Cheap mobile option

Manual bending equipment is simple, compact and low cost. Due to the uncomplicated design with driven rollers and a movable roller, this type of profile bending machine does not require any qualification. If necessary, the machine can be easily transferred to the installation site, and the affordable price of such devices determines their widespread use in the household. Of course, the design is not without its drawbacks:

  • there is no way to accurately control the bending radius;
  • increased processing time;
  • high physical loads on the operator;
  • processing of profiles with a small cross section.

The advantages and simplicity of the design of manual profile benders make them attractive for handicraft production, which is why such machines have gained immense popularity among home craftsmen. By the way, manual bending devices can be transferred to the middle category, if necessary, supplementing the design with an electric drive.

The design and principle of operation of bending units

The design of the simplest roll-type profile bender

The main elements of the roll forming machine are shafts mounted on a solid metal frame. In this case, a pair of rolling rollers is responsible for the longitudinal movement of the workpiece, and the movable roller provides pressure on the part. Depending on the design of the unit, the clamping force is regulated over a wide range using a screw pair, a jack or a hydraulic mechanism. The rolling rollers are driven by an electric motor or manually. The latter option is used on small devices and is most often repeated by craftsmen at home.

In addition, there are other designs of profile benders:

  • units with a left movable roller are used to produce spirals. Most often, such machines are equipped with CNC and allow you to bend parts, accurately controlling the bending gradient;
  • machines with movable lower shafts bend overall workpieces, therefore they are equipped with a hydraulic drive. The presence of a position controller for each shaft makes it possible to obtain parts of complex shape, up to twisting the workpieces in a spiral;
  • models in which all rollers are movable are the elite of roll forming equipment and can work with parts of any configuration and thickness.

The main difference between roll forming machines and other pipe bending equipment is that the workpiece configuration is changed not by bending around a fixed roller, but by cold rolling. This allows you to change the configuration of blanks of any section and length. A similar design will serve as the basis for a home-made machine, which we propose to do on our own.

A diagram that shows the principle of operation of a rolling pipe bender

Necessary tools and materials

To manufacture a machine for bending profile pipes, you will need a fairly large number of parts, but this does not mean that you will have to buy all the items from the list. Most of the necessary materials can be found in any garage or workshop. Here's what you need to get started:


The tool that will be needed in the process of work can be found with each master:

  • angle grinder;
  • electric drill;
  • a set of drills for metal;
  • hammer;
  • welding machine;
  • a set of open-end and socket wrenches.

The only difficulty you will have to face is the manufacture of the drive rollers and the pressure roller. Only the happy owners of such equipment have the opportunity to carve them from a workpiece on a lathe. Nevertheless, do not despair - in any organization there is a turner who will inexpensively manufacture parts according to the presented drawings. The remaining elements of the machine can be used second-hand.

Everything you need to make a profile bender

The chain transmission mechanism can be borrowed from the gas distribution mechanism of automobile engines, and the bearing housings (and the bearings themselves) can be borrowed from old agricultural machinery.

Manufacturing options for manual roll forming machines

To make a roll forming machine, it is not necessary to repeat the existing design exactly. It is much easier to create a device according to your own drawings, based on what is at hand. This will save time and money and will allow you to design a fixture that is ideally suited both for its intended purpose and for the installation site. That is why on the network you can find many devices that use the same principle, but differ in execution.

Drawing of a pipe bender with radial action on the workpiece

One of the designs allows radial bending of rectangular profile pipes due to the use of two rollers, one of which is movable, and the other is support (guide). The deformation of the workpiece along the desired radius is carried out by pressing and moving the working roller around the guide. The body of the device is made of steel sheet up to 8 mm thick and metal corners. To avoid involuntary displacement of the workpiece, before bending it is clamped between a fixed roller and a specially installed stop.

Homemade rolling machine for bending profile pipes

More versatile is a rolling type machine, the design of which is described above.

In addition, there are other really simple designs that allow you to bend pipes in a pattern. Unfortunately, the quality and accuracy of the deformation performed leave much to be desired, and in order to obtain a different radius, a new template will have to be made.

Pipe Bending Tools

When making a manual machine, some points should be considered:

  • so that when bending the overall workpieces, the profile bender does not tip over, its frame is made stable and massive. The best material for manufacturing can be considered a channel or an I-beam;
  • machine rolls must have low roughness and increased hardness. It is better if their configuration repeats the shape of the profiles of the most used sizes;
  • the design of the housing must provide a change in the distance between the axes of the drive shafts. An increased distance will make it possible to roll billets with a large cross section, then with a decrease in the center distance it will be possible to obtain bends of a small radius;
  • the drive lever must be able to rotate easily during operation, so it should not be made too short.

Most of the connections in the manufacture of the profile bending machine are performed using a welding machine. However, it will not be possible to completely do without bolted connections - movable structural elements are attached in this way.

Making a rolling structure with your own hands

For self-production, we recommend using the most common design of a roll forming machine with two lower shafts and a pressure roller. The easiest way is to install a manual drive on the unit, which, if necessary, can be easily converted into an electric one.

Device drawings

As already mentioned, it is better to design a profile bender yourself, based on your own conditions and preferences. In the work, you can focus on the drawings of machine tools, which the craftsmen who made them are happy to share.

Assembly instructions

  1. Production of drive (support) shafts and roller. It is better to entrust this work to a turner, after which the parts must be hardened.

    The manufacture of shafts and support rings will have to be entrusted to a turner

    It is possible to make cylindrical rollers without grooves for profile pipes. In this case, two restrictive rings are made for each shaft. Such cylindrical nozzles are installed taking into account the width of the workpiece and are fixed with bolts.

  2. Bearings are installed in cages. If it is not possible to use factory parts, then they can also be turned on a lathe.

    Shaft supports with installed bearings

  3. Sprockets are tried on the shafts and the location of the keyways is determined. The grooves for the key can be cut with a drill and a file or a dremel.

    The keyway can be made with a drill

  4. Holes are drilled in restrictive nozzles and threads are cut for clamping bolts.

    Thread for fixing restrictive rings

  5. A platform for installing a pressure roller is made. To do this, take a thick metal plate or channel, in which two pairs of holes are drilled for mounting clips with bearings. In addition, a hydraulic jack will be installed on the reverse side, so in some cases you will have to cut off one channel shelf.

    Top roller support

  6. The pressure shaft is screwed and the eyes from the M8 nuts are welded to the platform for fastening the springs.
  7. With the help of welding equipment, support legs and a frame are made. Particular attention should be paid to the part of the housing in which the bearing platform of the upper roller will be located. The corners that will form it must be even, and when installing them, the geometry should be carefully observed using measuring equipment.

    Bed with top roller deck installed

  8. The platform with the installed roller is suspended on springs from the upper cross member of the frame.