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Georgia is wine and kebab, eloquence and hospitality. Want to understand a person - sit down with him. We went to Tbilisi, sat down at the table with Tamada and were convinced that the Georgians know the way not only to stop the time, but also tangible to lengthen life
Georgian feast - mystical ritual born in love. The keyword here is "love." It breathes nature, the space is impregnated, the space is charged. Love is felt in every pronounced during the feast of toast. In how Tamada Luarsab Togonidze, before having come, gently rolls the wine in the glass. In the way I look at the wife of Nino, who gave him five children.
Tamada Luarsab Togonidze weighs every word. By the way, the toast raised during the feast of guests for Tamada is considered the last. After it you need to diverge or choose a new toasta
Loussab is powerful, under two meters, bearded horses. His wife Nino is a miniature brunette. "For the first time I saw Nino in 1997. Naturally, during the feast, at the wedding of our common friend. "
In Tbilisi Loussab - the personality is legendary. And not only because of the toast ... In fact, the profession of "Tamada" in Georgia does not exist. The festive table is usually visible and at the request of the organizers. Of course, free. The main occupation of Togonidze - sewing and selling national costumes, waste for which he himself restored on museum exhibits and old photographs. In addition, Loussab is a bright performer of church chants and the owner of several restaurants. So he is enough knowledge and experience to share with others. Naturally, at the table.
According to Louareb, in the atmosphere of the real feast it is invisibly there is a magic that a good wine creates, allowing a person to open a heart, and a good company. Between the participants should reign love and friendship, otherwise the holiday will not take place, no matter how Master is Tamada. Therefore, each toast is completed by the Universal Exclamation "Gaumarjos!" - Wishing for health to all those present. Behind the Georgian table are all equal, as before God. For him and pronounced the first toast. Always.
For Most High
When God distributed between the nations of the Earth, Georgians were peacefully sitting, saw wine and ate kebab. They were no time to participate in this fussy process. The Most High their behavior was so desired that he took and gave them Georgia - the land that was used for himself, "says Louarsab Togonidze, and in his voice, pride is heard.
Any Tamada has a clear and universal structure of festive speeches. But the real Tamada must bring something personal in the toast, from his own life experience, his love. Luar Saba, like most of his compatriots, special relationship with God.
"My relatives even in Soviet times, when they were persecuted on faith, at the table openly praised the Most High. After all, the meal historically - the continuation of the church service. And the wine symbolizes the blood of Christ. For us, this is a sacred drink. Wine drink not in order to get drunk. Among the Georgians, this condition is considered shameful! Wine allows us to touch our glorious traditions. Gaumarjos!
Famous traveler On the left hand from us was Kakheti - this garden of the Caucasus, this Georgian vineyard, where they produce a wine that competes with Kizlyarsky and could compete with French if the locals were able to do it as it should, but most importantly, to store. It is poured into goat or buffalo Burdyuki, and after a certain time, they give it a special taste, appreciated, as they assure, connoisseurs, but I seemed disgusting. That wine, which is not broken by goat and buffalo Burdyuki, pour into huge clay jugs, which are buried like this Arabs are made with grain bread, in a kind of silos. Here, the earth failed under the legs of one Russian dragoon, and he, falling into such a clay pitcher, drowned in it, as Clarence in the barrel of Malvasia ... |
For eternity
There is a legend about Georgian emigrants that were sitting in the Paris restaurant for a long time. Visitors constantly changed, and some, leaving, were interested in the waiters, what are these people? The waiters answered: "Ah, these are Georgians, now they do not feel the time ..." Indeed, for the Georgian feast there is no such thing as time! When we sit down at the table, the clock arrows stop.
On the Georgian feast is always invisibly present "departed". Therefore, here, remembering the dead (obligatory toast, regardless of the meeting of the meeting), it is customary: they are alive until they are remembered and loved. As a result, everyone ever will meet again and, of course, sit at the table.
"I have more than once a metaphysical feeling," says Louarsab, "you sit at the table seven or eight hours and do not even notice it." Toasts, singing, energy as if fascinated, introduced into hypnosis. At the same time, the paradox - you realize that life is very short ... We drink for those who are no more. Because with their departure and you will inevitably become less. Gaumarjos! ..
Georgia adopted Christianity at the beginning of the IV century. The patroness of the country is the Holy Mother of God
For the generosity of the land
- ... But the Earth as takes, so gives. Especially so fertile, as in Kakheti! (This area in the east of Georgia, the famous ancient wine-making history is often referred to as Caucasian Bordeaux. - approx. "Around the world.") Once I talked with a friend on the topic, why so few famous people come from Kakheti. And we came to the conclusion that the land here gives all the benefits with an excess. Therefore, people do not need to strive to the capital, climb out of the skin in order to achieve something and stand out. I think winemakers will confirm my words.
To maintain a dynamic communication at the table, Tamada often chooses someone for Alaverd - continued toast. Adamming relay necessarily develops the previous topic. For a friend Togonidze, Yago Bitarishvili winemaker, producing wine on ancient technology, it is easy.
I do not consider myself a winery. I just help nature give birth to wine! Do not deceive nature. One of my friend, being a student in Moscow, in Soviet times, traveled to potatoes. The work took them an old distilled grandfather, so they recruited one bag and in turn it was presented to an old man. And he only quite nodded and painted brigades. This is me to the fact that the person can be deceived, and the system. And it is impossible to land ... We say: "A bad person will not make good fault." The quality of wine is a test for humanity.
Classic Georgian bread is sovethe in round ovens made of refractory bricks. There is a belief that bread loves when they sing during his cooking. Only in this case it turns out to crisp and fragrant
The harvest of grapes is processed in Maleão - special room. At first, the bunches are put on his legs in Satshaneli - a davilen, retranshected from a solid trunk of a coniferous tree. This is the most gentle method in which grape bones remain entirely, which makes it possible to exclude unwanted bitterness in the taste of wine. The squeezed juice from the davils falls into the buried egg-shaped vessels with a capacity of up to 2000 liters - Quagger - for fermentation, excerpts and subsequent storage. The location of the Quivery under the ground allows to achieve a stable temperature of 14 ° C - optimal for storage of an alcoholic product. In many Georgian families still make wine in such a grandfather. From the grapes of one harvest, Yago produces about 1,200 bottles that come into small wine shops of Europe, America and even Japan. By the way, export Georgian wine to Europe, according to Loussab, became about the XIX century.
- Then the Mukhran wines began to supply to France. At first they were not popular with local restaurants. And Prince Bagration-Mukhransky came up with such a move: students went to rich costumes went to restaurants. For the allocated money, they made luxurious orders and asked to send Mukhran wines. Having heard from the waiters that there are no such wines in stock, the mysterious guests were paid away and, without having a meal, with the scandals were removed. Gradually, the owners of restaurants had to expand the wine card. So drink for the generosity of our Earth! Gaumarjos!
Take on horns Such a variety of individual peteers, as in Georgia, rarely see where you see 1. Azarpeshi - Low round chairs with a long flat handle resembling scope. |
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2. Kula. - Closed wooden vessel with long low throat. When they drink out of it, he knocks like a small drum. There is an opinion that Georgian men with the help of Couots were set up before battles. |
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3. Aquani. - Vessel in the form of a ceramic cradle, accommodating approximately half liters. From such dishes drink for the birth of a child. |
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4. Carcara - a spherical metal vessel with a curved neck consisting of three passing tubes. |
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5. Chinchila - A small jug, accommodating about a glass of wine. |
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6. Khanzi. - different sizes of horns, as a rule, decorated with silver lining. The biggest usually starts in the company in a circle. |
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7. TACI - Hemispherical cup without pens. |
For guests
There is a tradition in Georgia: during the feast there is always a reserve for random guests - we are waiting for new friends! True, not everyone came to us with an open heart and good intentions ... But this did not change our attitude towards strangers.
Georgians are taken to drink to the bottom "For God", "for the Motherland", "For those who are no more with us." In other cases, you can just hurt and put a glass on the table
Any guest is a holiday for the owners. They hurry to feed all the best on the table. Following Lobio, Satzivi and Khachapuri, a kebabi fried on coals, burning chinki, smoking dolma, appear in Lavash Kebabi. Wine is set - a lot of wine, and each has its own character. Georgians try it and wait for it. After three glasses, it is possible to understand its strength.
One Russian friend of Loussab, being in Tbilisi, somehow came to the Georgian house - he was asked to repair the TV. The owner's wife, meanwhile, began to cover the table. Sorry, the neighbors who lived that the guest was tightened. As a result, they sat at the table all night. The TV has not repaired.
- We have a wonderful belief. The time that is held in communication with guests, does not go to the account. Thus, every guest is expensive, because he, he does not know, extends to us life! Gaumarjos!
For children
And our life extends children. Georgian folk wisdom says that a real school for children is a family! But the main thing is that the "teachers" were kind, strict and fair, and "lessons" became a holiday.
Good Tamada is a wonderful speaker, able to feel and keep the public who knows the measure in songs, jokes and philosophical sayings. His task is to create the spirit of unity in the company. You just do not learn this. Tamada becomes gradually, while attentive at the table of the wisdom of the elders from the young nails and learning to understand the wine.
- On family feasts, children can see all relatives. All important in life we \u200b\u200bwill learn at the table. I was about four years old when I first tried the wine. Literally bought. Thanks to this, I felt part of the family. Relatives always looked at me as equal. And they listened to me as equal. We have been thinking together: for Such - it is always a dialogue. You can express an opinion, but you can not start a quarrel. We still gather in the father's house in joy and grief. And wine helps to solve problems. It relieves stress, softens the heart. In the West, psychoanalytics come up with group therapies and different other methods, and we do not need it all. All problems are solved in the family at the table! My son is five years old, he is all in me: always wants to say. Our children and continue the traditions of the Georgian feast, our land. Gaumarjos!
The birthplace of the famous grape variety "Saperavi" is Alazan Valley, a unique district of Kakheti with exceptional natural conditions
For mothers
We had a lot of fighting, many men gibbles. Therefore, in Georgia, a woman is the personification of the sacred strength, his life itself, its continuation ... Let's say I have a businessman's diploma and several restaurants, but all - and business, and family - keeps on Nino! All this exists only due to its irrepressible energy!
The worst insult for Georgian is disrespect for his mother. Since childhood, everyone is brought up in love for her. No wonder, the Mother Georgia Monument was one of the main symbols, built on the top of the Sololak hill in 1958, when the city celebrated the 1500th anniversary.
History remembers times when only men took part in the festival or when men and women sat down on different sides of the table. Now at the table is all together. There are even women who lead the table, speaking in the role of Tamada.
- Now many use social networks to communicate. Do not see friends, only their photos! But people should feel each other. There is something vivid creative, eternal. This is our identification code. For this while alive Georgia will always be wine and will toasts! Gaumarjos!
Memo traveler
DISTANCEfrom Moscow ~ 1650 km (2 hours 30 minutes in flight) What you need to do in Georgia SEEone of the performances in the theater of puppets Rube Gabyadze (from 5 lari). |
Eatkhachapuri in Ajarsky (6 Lari) in the Funicular Restaurant on Mount Mtatsminda, offering stunning views of Tbilisi. DRINK UPgeorgian Grape Brandy, or in simple Chaqi (60-70%). Price - from 25 lari for a bottle of 0.5 liters in any specialized store. |
LIVEin the center of Old Tbilisi at the Kopala Hotel, towering above Coy (double room about 100 dollars per day). Nearby Quarter Abanotubani, famous for baths on natural sulfur sources. MOVEon the subway and the bus (a ticket for an hour and a half - 50 Tetri (0.5 Lari), on the route taxi - 80 Tetri). |
BUYas a gift from Kakheti Churchhel. Choose the one that is softering, there is less starch (1.5 lari aged); For yourself - a traditional horn for wine from silver or brass (from 60 lari). Photo: ITAR-TASS, PHOTOBANK "Lori", photoxpress, shutterstock, google; DigitalGlobe, 2014. |
Photos: Rajed Gamezardashvili
Georgian Tamada Giya.
Georgian Tamada Gii is a real professional of his business. Charismatic, cheerful and bright lead will give you a good mood at any event or wedding. Merry songs and beautiful music will accompany the bright performance of the lead throughout the day.
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