A circular saw is most often used for precise, even cuts in wood and wood-based materials, but can also be useful for cutting light metals and plastics. It should have a guide for a circular saw: tire and carriage, parallel stop. When buying a tool, you should pay attention to this attention. Power and number of revolutions per minute - labor productivity, quality of work, the ability to saw hard materials depend on these parameters.

Homemade desktop mini-sawmill

Homemade universal slider

For all of the listed guides, you can make one universal slider that fits any device. The slider consists of a metal profile and a carriage on bearings.

This design, consisting of self-made guides on bearings, is very convenient: easy to manufacture, easy to use, suitable for any guide device. The carriage has eight bearings: four thrust bearings and the same number of side bearings for fixing the carriage on the tire. As a tire, a profile guide in the form of a rail is used. Rail guides are particularly accurate, so they are used in the manufacture of furniture.

Caretaker with his own hands. Manufacturing instructions

The moving part of stationary household or industrial tools is called a carriage. In the case of circular saws, it helps to hold a small workpiece and get a flat cut on it at an angle of 90 degrees or any other. Independent production of the carriage. simple task. In addition, it is considered what will be necessary in the work, and what correct sequence actions, so a do-it-yourself circular carriage will make you happy, not upset.

Required Tools

Before making a circular carriage that will allow you to get a cross or corner cut on small parts with user comfort, you need to stock up on the following tools:

  • already assembled table with a circular saw fixed on the inside;
  • aluminum U-profile;
  • milling machine;
  • epoxy adhesive;
  • two wooden planks, the height of which allows them to be placed inside the metal profile;
  • a sheet of plywood under the bottom of the carriage;
  • boards (as restrictions);
  • saw for cutting unnecessary parts of the product;
  • self-tapping screws for fasteners;
  • Nuts or others small items, which will be temporarily stacked in a fixed profile.

This is a list of the basic materials and tools you will need to create a standard design that makes a square cut. To cut at a 30 or 45 degree angle, you will need to cut a "combination square" from the board or plywood. Now. about the sequence of actions.

Step-by-step guide to making a carriage

Before you start, you need to draw two parallel straight lines on the table at the same distance from the cutting blade. They will be placed by aluminum profiles. Let's move on to the main steps.

Fixing aluminum profiles


Metal products act as a sled. the carriage slides over them while sawing the workpiece. Marked lines cut grooves with a router. Their depth is equal to the width of the profile.

Read also






After removing sawdust and shavings, glue is applied inside the groove, then the profile is cut, pre-cut to the width of the table (machine). To speed up the process, it is recommended to fix the profile from the edge of the table with clamps, having previously applied a small bar. When the metal and wood are fully "captured", they begin to create a carriage. She will move along the resulting sled.

Carriage for circular | Works of the Masters

In that video Kirill Shvalev. the author of the channel Dobry Stolyar will show how to make carriage.

Production of carriage for sawing table | Do-it-yourself circular device

I will show you how to make a useful fixture for a sawing table. carriage for cross cutting. Attachment

Making a carriage

Take the nuts and place them on the profile. This is necessary in order to place the gratings in the profile and glue them on the plywood. After making sure that the rods move freely inside the profile, lay them out with glue and attach a sheet of plywood. Place a weight on top so that it evenly presses on the connection of the sheet and rods. Wait until it dries completely.

Fasten the guides with screws. Every 10-15 cm; the amount is determined by the width of the carriage. It is important that they are long enough to strong connection rods and plates, but not through.

The main part of the car is ready. Now make sure the product moves freely within the profile.

Mounting the walls of the carriage


Two pieces of the same size are cut from plywood or board, which will become the walls of the product (cork). The rear wall is screwed tightly to the base of the carriage, the front panel is only one after the other. For ease of use, clamps are again used.

The user must ensure that both walls are installed in parallel. After that, the front wall is also fixed on self-tapping screws. Then the carriage with stops is placed in the grooves, the ease of its movement is checked. You can then turn on your circular saw and make cuts in the base and walls.

Read also


    The movable part of stationary household or residential premises of tools is called the carriage. For which the design with circular saws is intended, it helps to fix a small workpiece and get an even cut here at an angle of 9 ...


    The movable part of stationary household, as it is also called, but also living quarters, tools is called a carriage. If the passage with circular saws, it helps to fix a small workpiece and get an even cut at an angle on its surface ...


    The best videoThe best videoDo-it-yourself circular guide fenceAbout Video:Uploaded by Roman Baikov Search Roman Baikov 1 year agoThe video shows a homemade fence with a eccentric clamp and a ruler, and a homemade sawmill with...


    Do-it-yourself circular carriage: manufacturing and assembly Video: Circular table A circular carriage on its own is often made by novice craftsmen and specialists. Such an element is an indispensable fixture in the workshop. With the help of him...


    A circular saw is, perhaps, one of the most necessary and necessary tools for a master engaged in personal housing construction or building his own house. In this case, the masters are probably interested in how to make a circular at home, ...

Now you need to make sure that the cut is made at exactly 90 degrees. To do this, take an arbitrary workpiece placed in the carriage with an emphasis on the back wall, the saw will start, the cut will be made. With gon, it becomes obvious whether the work was done correctly or if there were inaccuracies.

Creation of a "combined area"


The fulfillment of these two points gives a crew that cuts wooden blanks strictly at right angles. What if I need a 30, 45 degree angle? For this, there is a so-called combined square.

Its foundation. a wooden blank, the dimensions of which allow it to be freely placed between the front and rear walls of the carriage. The square is vertically divided into two halves. Also, the top right corner (less than 45 degrees for example) and the top left corner (less than 30 degrees) are cut off.

Now, by placing the square on the screws or glue on the front or back wall, you can change the angle of the cut pieces. The carriage has become more functional.

Obviously, making a crew with your own hands does not include impossible tasks, and even a beginner can handle the job.

Below are some of the nuances of the work, the knowledge of which helps to avoid mistakes.

  1. It is desirable to attach a stopper to the rear wall, limiting the movement of the carriage and eliminating the possibility of injury. To do this, a small part is cut out of the rod and fixed to the stop outside in the place where. If the user jumps during operation, this element takes over the spinning disk.
  1. For smoother carriage movement and lower slide wear rate, it is recommended to lubricate the inside of the profile with wax.
  2. Remember to cut off the protruding elements of the rods so that they do not interfere with work. Their length is equal to the width of the base.
  3. During manufacture, make sure that the disc protrudes above it to a height sufficient to cut concrete blanks.
  4. After passing through the through cut of the product, remember. its width should be slightly wider than the thickness of the disk, so that the latter can pass freely through it.

That's all there is to know about making a DIY circular cart. It is important to remember that this is a tool that does not forgive mistakes, so consider all the nuances regarding your own safety.

Useful video

The video talks about making a cart for a homemade circular.

Post Views: 0

When working with a manual circular saw, the question of the straightness of the cut is acute. There are two concepts for ensuring a straight line:

Fastening on the sawing machine (workbench) of the actual circular.

In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along the guide. The cutting quality is at its best, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material being processed.

The workpiece is fixed permanently, and a guide ruler is installed for a hand-held circular saw.

In this design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any, the main thing is to ensure that the attachment for the circular saw is firmly attached. Manufacturers of hand tools have taken care of users and offer various ready-made devices for sale.

Industrially manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate marking ruler, some allow you to set the cutting angle. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and play during the movement of the tool.

The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, is protected from the ingress of cutting products and does not need lubrication.

However, all these kits are expensive, and many home craftsmen make a rail for.

Consider options that were independently invented and created by homegrown "Kulibins".

IMPORTANT! A hand-held circular saw is a source of increased injury, therefore, in the manufacture of home-made devices based on it, safety precautions should be followed.

The easiest option is a cutting stop

The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.

It works quite efficiently, but it is limited for hand-held circular saws. The tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp. The bracket protrudes above the work surface both from below and from above.

As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular engine rests against the clamp, and you have to cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates, a step may form.

Any master will tell you that a high-quality cut is obtained when the saw moves continuously from the beginning to the end of the workpiece.
In industrial designs, fasteners are placed outside the ruler, and do not interfere with the free passage of the tool.

A homemade guide is made from a finished tool of a different profile, which has a low cost. We buy a long aluminum rule (emphasis on and) for plaster or screed.

Its cost is 3-4 hundred rubles. The tool is a profile complex shape with a smooth groove on the reverse side, for adjusting the position of the handles. Clamping fastening, on hexagonal nuts. Not suitable for our purposes.

  1. Thrust ruler
  2. Materials and assembly
  3. Remote guide
  4. rail miter box

The guide rail for a circular saw is a device that provides a smooth cut. In total, there are two ways to help make a straight cut:

  • Rigid fixation of the electric saw on the desktop.
  • Stationary clamping of the workpiece, installation of a guide rail for manual circulars.

The first option involves fixing the tool on the workbench, while the workpiece moves along the guide. The quality of the cut will be high, but the dimensions of the workpiece are limited, due to the size of the machine. With the second processing method, the parameters of the workpiece can be arbitrary. The main thing is that the trimming tool is securely fixed.

Carpentry device manufacturers produce a wide range of guide rails for circular saws. Details are convenient to use, meet safety regulations. The design drawing includes a guide ruler. In some cases, it is possible to set the required degree of inclination of the cutter, it is possible to avoid backlash, jamming of the working element during its movement.

The factory carriage mounted on the circular does the job well, but is expensive. The article describes how to assemble a saw guide bar on your own.

Thrust ruler

Self-manufacturing of devices for circulars requires strict adherence to safety rules.

The cutting stop is often used when processing the material of a circular saw; it is effective only in the case of a jigsaw; problems can arise with cutting: the tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp.

The bracket protrudes from the bottom and top sides of the machine tabletop. The result is a limiter for the length of the cut, but the saw motor inevitably rests on the clamp, the cut is performed in two stages. The quality of the edge will be poor, there is a high probability of an unwanted step: to ensure a perfect cut, a continuous movement of the cutting blade from the beginning to the end of the lumber is necessary. In factory models, the fastener is taken out of the range for a circular saw, does not interfere with work.

Materials and assembly

A homemade guide rail can be assembled from an aluminum plaster rule. The device has a complex configuration, on the one hand it is equipped with a longitudinal groove for setting the handles in a comfortable position. Hidden clamps can be made from quick-release screwless clamps.

The paw must be dismantled from the clamp, fluoroplastic or polypropylene runners should be installed in its place. The material of the moving element must be strong and have a low coefficient of friction. The part is best formed by a milling cutter or a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth, but in the second case, you will have to additionally shape it with a file.

At the next stage, the sliders are installed in the groove of the rule, from which the guide for the manual circular saw will be created.

It is necessary to ensure that the sliding is free, but without play. It is not necessary to apply excessive force: during operation, the knot must be fixed.

Screw the sled to the top of the clamps. In this case, you need to make sure that the connection is strong so that spontaneous unwinding of the knot does not occur during operation. This will damage the workpiece or cause injury.

The guide rail for a circular saw should hold well and not play. The resulting design will allow you to unravel flat lumber, the length corresponding to the same parameter of the ruler minus the margin on the sides of fixing the clamps.

If during the test sawing a perfectly even cut is obtained, nothing interferes with the work, then the technology has been followed, the guide has been made correctly.

Plus design - the line will be inexpensive. Labor costs are also insignificant, they consist only in the formation of sliders.

Remote guide

The device with a guide rail has a disadvantage - the need to control the side contact of the saw with the ruler. If cutting a workpiece that is too wide, the arms may not be long enough to guide the material. The way out is to use a carriage with ball bearings. It won't be cheap, but it will pay off in the long run.

The guide carriage can be made from a corner and metal plates. The width is adjusted using wing locks integrated into the movable grooves. A profile of complex configuration is bought in a specialized department of a hardware store. There may be several options, but you need to provide a parallel stop for the circular.

If for some reason it is not possible to make an auxiliary element from a profile that will guide the cut along a clear line, you can buy an assembled device consisting of a carriage and a guide. The circular will be firmly connected by the sole to the carriage structure.

It is important to achieve strict parallelism of the circular motion along the profile. An improperly set stand will give a loose cut. An external guide rail for a circular saw is easy to make with your own hands. As a result, it will be possible to guide, process large-sized lumber, make high-quality cuts, trimming will be accurate, the saw will carry out light movements. Feeding can be carried out manually or with the help of a guide rod.

rail miter box

The operation of a circular saw with a guide bar assembled according to the first two methods will be comfortable, but rather slow. To speed up the process, it is better to use a rail miter box. For the manufacture of the guide device will require:

  • the same type of metal corners (2 pcs.);
  • a sheet of plywood or a thickness of 1.5 cm or more (as a base);
  • nuts with bolts (4 sets).

The guide angles must be fixed in the same plane at a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the workpiece. The workpiece must move freely under the rails, the cutting wheel must not be too high. The bolts will act as studs. To reduce friction, you can glue strips of fluoroplast, but it is better to equip the fixture with wheels.

A guiding tool made according to this scheme is complex, but its efficiency is higher.

The video shows the assembly process, the functioning of a circular with a guide rail.

Reading 6 min. Published on 02.12.2018

To simply cut a tree for kindling or make longitudinal profiles for sheathing or construction in a home workshop, one stationary “circular” will be enough for the master. If he needs to perform a series of more serious carpentry manipulations and make a more accurate cut, straight or with corners, he uses a carriage.

This tool is a clamp moving along a special “sled” for wooden blanks or blanks, which, with the help of a few tips, every craftsman can easily make for himself.

Required Tools

In order to design a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands and then comfortably use it in a home workshop, first of all, you should prepare a set of materials and tools for its manufacture:

  • Stationary circular saw on the saw table;
  • Screwdriver or drill, as well as a manual milling cutter;
  • Mounting adhesive - epoxy resin is suitable;
  • Hacksaw or grinder - you may need to saw off the protruding parts of the structure;
  • Self-tapping screws to secure parts of the product;
  • Metal nuts are smaller in diameter than the thickness of the profile hole - they will be poured into it for a short time;
  • 2 U-shaped professional pipes-channels made of metal (for example: aluminum);
  • Two slats made of plywood or wood - they will serve as guides. In terms of thickness, they should freely enter the U-hole of the profile;
  • Square thin plywood plank for the base;
  • Two wooden walls - for the manufacture of persistent walls of the carriage.

At the same distance from the location of the cutting disk, the circulars draw two lines parallel to it. Then using manual router they cut out U-profile holes on them, blow chips out of them and fix professional pipes in them with glue. After the glue dries, the grooves are ready.

Step 2: Making the Carriage Base

Next, a movable base of the trimming carriage is constructed. For this, two strips are taken, which, in terms of thickness, freely enter the U-shaped groove. But there is one point here - the carriage will have to “slide” freely on the table, and for this it is raised by 2-3 mm above the table. To do this, nuts of the same thickness are laid out in the profile grooves at an equal distance, after which guide rails are laid on them.

Then glue is applied to them, which fixes the plywood plank-base. To press it tighter, you can fix the clamps on the sides.

When the resin dries, the nuts are removed from the profile grooves and the master checks whether the carriage moves freely on them. After that, for the convenience of further use, the carriage is cut off on the sides along the profile of the table.

Step 3: Mounting the walls

So, the base is ready and then resistant walls are installed on it. To do this, two wooden bars are taken: one of them is rigidly, with the help of self-tapping screws, fixed along the edge closest to the master so that it is strictly perpendicular to the cutting edge of the saw blade; the second is fixed along the upper edge, but only on one side. This is necessary so that the master can align this wall strictly parallel to the bottom. The operation is performed using a square.

After the walls are aligned, a test cut is carried out. It has two purposes - with its help, they cut holes in the walls and base of the carriage, and then measuring the sawn workpiece, they check whether the right cutting angle is correct.

Important. The height of the walls must be sufficient to cutting edge entered them no more than half of it, otherwise the carriage may break during operation - and this is an unjustified risk when working with a circular saw.

Step 4: Making a Compound Miter Square

So, the usual straight-draw carriage is ready, but what if the craftsman needs to cut something at a different angle, such as 60, 40 or 30 degrees? For such operations, you will need an additional structural element, which is called the "combined square".

The name is not accidentally taken in quotation marks - the fact is that the basis of the workpiece is indeed a square wooden platform. It is cut out so that it fits freely between the stops of the main carriage and one of the sides is fixed at the bottom wall.

After that, the workpiece is cut, cutting out fragments from it at the right angles - the resulting bevels will be the guides along which the part to be cut at this angle is laid.

The “square” after manufacturing is rigidly (on glue or self-tapping screws) mounted on the carriage. Another, more advanced option - rounded grooves are cut in the square and the base of the carriage with the help of a milling cutter, which allow the square to move along the base on a movable latch. It is made of a screw, a nut and two metal washers.

A detailed video on how to make the crosscut carriage described above:

Another video example:

Nuances at work

In conclusion, here are a few subtleties that are useful to know if you want to make a homemade carriage for a circular saw:

  1. It is recommended to install a thick block on the supporting wall at the place where the blade passes through it, which will prevent the saw from jumping out over the edge of the wall, which can lead to injury.
  2. In order to give the structure a greater glide, it is recommended to clean the skids with sandpaper, and periodically grease the grooves with a candle cinder (from paraffin or stearin). Sometimes wax is taken, but it is not recommended to use it, since it sticks to the skids when it is in use.
  3. Before applying glue to the parts, blow out the structure from particles of wood dust and shavings to avoid unevenness after gluing.
  4. After sawing through the walls, make sure that the saw passes freely through them. To do this, you can make a sawn hole slightly larger than the thickness of the disk.

Important. The master, no matter how experienced he is, should not forget that a circular saw is a unit of increased injury risk, therefore, when making a carriage and working on a saw with its help, you should always be careful and careful and remember safety precautions.

Having made an end carriage in such a simple way in a home workshop, the master will have an easy-to-use, versatile tool at hand that can be used in most types of carpentry work.