09.01.2013 - 11:45 efgeny

Digital cameras - compact and easy to use, endowed with many functions and modes, have entered our lives very tightly, almost completely replacing film cameras. In this article, we will consider the most common reasons why they turn to a specialized service center to repair cameras. It is possible to repair the device qualitatively only if the cause of the malfunction is accurately identified, as well as further elimination of the breakdown using professional equipment available at the service center. It is highly not recommended to camera repair at home, without knowledge of the matter and the right tool. This is guaranteed to lead to more serious consequences. There are a number of main reasons that are typical for any brand and model, for which the camera will need repair. The first is physical impact. Since a digital camera is a mobile device, the risk of mechanical damage increases, that is, falls, hits on a hard surface, water ingress, sand ingress, etc. This is especially noticeable if the LCD screen is broken during a fall. It is more difficult to determine the breakdown of the motherboard or the matrix of the device. This is due to the fact that these elements are located inside the case, so diagnostics are indispensable here. If moisture enters the camera, serious damage to the internal electronics may result. Even with slight contact electronic elements a camera with liquid, a corrosion process can occur, which will undoubtedly entail repair. Since the camera is more used in warm time years - on the beach or in nature, sand or dust particles may enter into it, which can damage it. In such cases, the lens suffers first of all, as its mechanism becomes clogged and starts to work incorrectly. An equally common problem is overheating of the camera in the sun. Violation thermal regime will seriously affect the operation of the device, since the internal components, overheating, can even melt, so such a procedure as repairing cameras cannot be avoided.

24.07.2012 - 21:57 efgeny

Going for a walk, on a business trip or on a trip, you can’t do without a camera, which, like other equipment, tends to break down. If such a trouble occurs, it is better to immediately contact the service center where it will be made camera repair, and regardless of the brand, model of the device, as well as the degree of damage. Trying to repair the camera yourself is highly discouraged, as this is a rather complex device that requires certain knowledge and skills. This article will discuss the most common camera failures. The first is lens failure. The lens may not move in or out, be bent, the shutters may not open well or not at all, or focus may not be achieved. In this case, the display may show the inscriptions “Zoom Error”, “Lens Eror”, “Lens error”. You may hear crackling or squeaking in the lens area. The cause of this malfunction is usually mechanical effects, such as shock, overpressure, sand or moisture. In addition, lens problems can also appear as horizontal streaks in photographs, and a broken shutter may be the cause. Basically, breakdowns of this type can be eliminated without replacing the lens, by making a quality repair. The second is display failure. This malfunction can manifest itself if the display is broken, black and does not react in any way to turning the camera on and off when the display is as dark as possible, but there is a picture. In the first case, the only way out will be a complete replacement of the display, in the second - there is the possibility of revitalizing the screen, but at the same time, diagnostics should be done, which can be done, as well as repairing cameras, in a service center where there are special tools and equipment for this. Third, the flash fires, but the pictures are either overexposed or underexposed.

Lens failure- this should be the most common failure digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include “E18 lens”(“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (zoom error) (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problems”) (Kodak) , “lens>error, restartcamera” (“lens error, restart camera”) or simply “lens error” (“lens error”) (almost all camera manufacturers in Lately use this option). Some cameras may not show anything at all on the display, but only emit a beep, the lens drives in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.

The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some of them can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding down the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canons) means you don't have installed card, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping this cable installed as a skimmer when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra power to aid in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.

Now we are entering the realm of potentially dangerous ways to save the camera. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow doesn't help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help clean them up. Pay Special attention to avoid scratching the lens barrel with a needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.

Method 6 : Hit the rubber cover of the USB socket repeatedly with the intent to dislodge any particles that may interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or a cracked LCD screen.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this unless there is obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens pointing down, try "softly" tapping the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.

Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position again. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop any further effort at that point. All more people report the success of this method compared to any other methods.

Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

How to fix your camera yourself

Here is a quote that caught my eye (from the dialogue between the client and the master of the workshop):

- "How much does it cost to repair or replace the lens of a Power Shot SX 10IS camera (minimum and maximum cost) - a post-warranty camera.
The camera did not fall. just gave a lens error. What is the repair time?

- "Good afternoon, Marina.
The cost of repairing the SX10 lens is 4800 rubles, lens replacement is most likely not required. The term is usually 1-2 weeks, depending on the complexity of the problem. All this is preliminary information, the final answer to your questions will be given by diagnostics, which we have for free.
Regards, Alexey..."

And here is the material that I found on the Internet ... Maybe you shouldn’t lay out money right away? Need to try....

Lens failure - this has to be the most common digital camera failure. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (error zoom) (Fuji), "LensObstructed" ("lens problem") (Kodak) , "lens>error, restartcamera" ("lens error, restart camera") or just "lens error" ("lens error") (almost all camera manufacturers have recently used this option). Some cameras may not show anything at all on the display, but only emit a beep, the lens drives in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.

The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some of them can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding down the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canons) means that you do not have a card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping this cable installed as a skimmer when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra power to aid in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.

Now we are entering the realm of potentially dangerous ways to save the camera. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow doesn't help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Pay special attention not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.

Method 6: Repeatedly hit the rubber cap on the USB port with the intent to dislodge any particles that might interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or a cracked LCD screen.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this unless there is obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens pointing down, try "softly" tapping the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.

1.

Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop any further effort at that point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other methods.

Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

A good Canon camera is not cheap. If suddenly it got caught in the rain, fell to the ground, or failed for some other reason, it’s easier, of course, to repair it rather than buy a new one. It is better not to try to do it yourself, because the camera is a complex device with elements of electronics, optics and mechanics, in the event of a breakdown, it requires professional intervention. Moreover, now there are many service centers that repair canon cameras.

In 70% of cases, the cause of camera failure is mechanical damage, such as falling or getting sand into the Zoom mechanism. If the lens is out of order, then usually the inscription “Zoom error”, “Lens error” or “Lens error” appears on it. Sometimes you can view old frames, but you can't make new ones. Repair in this case consists in replacing the gears, fixing the guide racks, replacing the internal optics unit. If stripes appear on the camera's LCD while taking pictures, the shutter lamellae may need to be repaired.

If you experience problems with the flash and the pictures are overexposed, you will need to replace the lamp or flash unit. It must be remembered that the lamp in most models is designed for 2-3 thousand flashes.

If the camera has a crack on the screen, it does not light up, or the image that appears is too dark, you need to change the display, since the screen cannot be restored in case of mechanical breakdowns.

In case of malfunctions of interfaces, which include the USB connector, video and audio outputs, they are replaced. Usually they wear out as a result of frequent use or mechanical damage occurs.

Canon cameras are characterized by the following typical malfunctions: for models A470, A460, A450, A430 - malfunction of the shutter cable, in which stripes appear on the pictures; for models A495, A490, A480 - breakage of the pinion axle with a slight impact on the Zoom mechanism; for models S3IS, S2IS, S1IS - failure of the ultrasonic monitor, as a result of which the camera lens does not extend; for models A95, A85, A80, A75, A70 - poor image quality due to a malfunction of the matrices.

It must be remembered that the repair of Canon cameras begins with a preliminary diagnosis under conditions service center. This requires additional time, which can be reduced by examining the symptoms of malfunctions before visiting the center and then describing them in detail in the admission certificate.

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In a recently published article "Replacing CCD matrices in cameras” discusses in detail the defects and their causes. The article begins with a definition of what a CCD matrix is ​​and ends with a photo gallery of pictures taken by cameras with faulty CCD sensors, where you can clearly see all the variety of manifestations of defects. On the article page in the siteBar "interesting to know" published material about the largest CCD matrix in the world.....

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