In Russia, traditionally, the so-called “chicken stoves” were installed, which were heated on black. The appearance of the design dutch ovens the merit of Peter the Great when he banned smoking stoves in cities (due to constant fires) and forced the development of chimney systems. In the same period, Peter opened the first tiled factory in Strelna for the production of white tiles with blue patterns (in the manner of the Dutch).

This plant was headed by Jan Flegner, a Swede from among those defeated near Poltava. And this is despite the fact that in Moscow there was a whole Goncharnaya Sloboda, which had been manufacturing tiles for several centuries and this technology had been worked out to the finest details. However, Peter did not like Moscow, he did not want to turn to Moscow masters, so he made production in Strelna from scratch under the patronage of the Germans, Swedes and Dutch.

Since the fashion was always set by the ruling class, and Peter also did it with the help of lashes, they began to make multi-channel stoves with white and blue tiles from Strelna. These are the stoves that got the name "Dutch" for their pictorial motives.

At the same time, in Sweden itself, systems of multi-channel furnaces were developed only in 1767 by Karl Kronstedt. Before that, all of Europe was heated (and cooked) with fireplaces, and as such they did not have stoves for heating houses. The Europeans used the Russian design for their developments and improvements. By the way, in the 19th century, Russian engineers Sviyazev and Lvov optimized old design and modern Dutch ovens are the offspring of the modifications of these engineers, practically unchanged.

Advantages of tiled Dutch stoves:

Compact, uncomplicated design. The furnace does not really contain any thermodynamic complexities. Anyone can fold it, with a careful and accurate approach. The principle of the Dutch stove is simple - artificially elongated smoke passages serve to heat the body of the stove with gases.

Light oven, not material-intensive, therefore it can be installed without much reinforcement of the ceiling on any floor. A medium-sized Dutch woman will take only about 600 bricks. Tiles will also be required much less than, say, for a Russian stove.

Plasticity of the design. This means that the configuration of the furnace can be different, not only cylindrical. The stock of functionality allows you to make a Dutch cooker with a hob or build in a water-heating tank, an oven.

The Dutch woman can be pulled up to 2-3 floors(such cases are known) and this will not worsen its thermal performance.

Warms up quickly with a small amount of wood. The stove-makers explain this by the fact that the ratio of the volume of smoke channels to the volume of the bookmark is quite large.

Large heat capacity and slow cooling(largely due to the tiled shirt) makes it indispensable in country houses as an alternative source of heat. The medium oven heats a space of up to 60 m².

Tiled Dutch - very aesthetic. Decorated in any style, lined with tiles, it becomes the center of the room, its main accent.

There are, of course, disadvantages as well. There are few of them, but you should be aware of them, and during construction, correlate your requirements with knowledge of the “cons” of Dutch stoves.

Disadvantages of the Dutch:
- Since the natural firing mode for these furnaces is smoldering, flammable materials are unsuitable. There will be fire, but no heat.
- After heating, it is imperative to cover (do not close tightly!) The view, because. the oven cools down very quickly.
- Intensive soot formation occurs, i.e. you will have to clean the Dutch oven often.
- Do not heat this stove too hard. It is better to light a fire twice a day - in the morning and in the evening for two bookmarks, than to throw firewood all day. This is dangerous because carbon monoxide can be released.

As you already understood, the name "Dutch" suggests design features + tiles . This is a channel, multi-turn furnace, designed for slow burning, hearth, with vertical smoke channels and a side exit to the chimney. Of course, what the owners will cover it with is their business. But the tiles best option, especially when you consider that the walls of the furnace do not warm up much - up to 60 ° C and it is desirable to keep this heat longer. To cope with this task can only

When heating system in private homes it is predominantly gas, it can be difficult to find a good stove maker. And many homeowners, to whom gasification still has not yet reached, take up the construction. Of course, a beginner who is poorly versed in the intricacies of the furnace business should not opt ​​for a complex, albeit economical design. It is better for him to be cheap and cheerful, and most importantly, extremely simple. The so-called Dutch oven or simply Dutch oven perfectly meets these requirements, thanks to which it has become very, very popular.

What does a Dutch oven look like and why is it so popular

The appearance of the Dutch

Uncomplicated, at first glance, the structure has many advantages:

  1. "Dutch" is able to quickly warm up from the smallest portion of fuel. At the same time, its overexpenditure during heating after a long downtime is very small.
  2. The design of this furnace involves the use of a relatively small amount of material, so it is relatively light. For comparison: a large Dutch oven is built from 650 bricks, while a large Russian one is built from 2500. At the same time, the heated area for the "Dutch" is 60 m 2, while for the Russian - only 45 m 2. In addition, the principle of the device "Dutch" allows you to significantly reduce the original dimensions - up to 0.5x0.5 m in plan. This advantage allows you to safely place the "Dutch" on the floor.
  3. The channel labyrinth in the body of the stove has great resistance to reverse thrust, so smoke almost never occurs when wind blows into the pipe.
  4. Although the Dutch stove was originally created as a purely heating stove, it can be easily equipped with a hob - the combustion mode will not be disturbed.
  5. The channel part of the furnace can be pulled up to 2 floors (and some are pulled up to 4), while its efficiency will remain at the same level.
  6. Design features in combination with a small wall thickness exclude the development of significant temperature deformations in the masonry, so the Dutchwoman is undemanding to the quality of materials. good brick(refractory) will be required only for the construction of the furnace. The rest is sometimes laid out even from burnt or hollow bricks.
  7. In the channel part, you can easily find the area with the optimal temperature for installation. oven or water heat exchanger.
  8. Irregular use does absolutely no harm to the oven. At the same time, it is possible to drown it, bypassing the accelerating phase - the masonry will not crack from this.

As you can see, the list of advantages of this furnace is very impressive. But, despite this, it cannot be called ideal. Here are the costs to achieve these benefits:

  1. "Dutch" has a very low efficiency - within 40%. For comparison: a Russian stove assimilates more than 80% of the thermal energy embedded in the fuel.
  2. It is worth at least a little delay with the overlap of the view after heating, as the stove will immediately be blown out by cold air. It is pulled through the chimney by a channel labyrinth that acts like a siphon.
  3. "Dutch" is not designed for the use of waste fuel, which burns completely in a short time. It should not be heated, for example, with reeds, straw, brushwood and similar materials: the lion's share of the heat produced will evaporate through the chimney. With maximum effect, the stove operates on long-lasting fuel (wood, coal, peat), and in the smoldering mode.
  4. When using inexpensive types of fuel with a high ash content, the chimney is quickly overgrown with soot.

With an excessively intense firebox, a Dutch stove can release carbon monoxide into the room.

See also our article step by step instructions and ordering a brick fireplace stove:.

Construction device

The design of the Dutch oven can rightly be called ingenuous. main feature consists in the fact that the firebox does not communicate with the chimney directly, but through a labyrinth of channels (that’s why the stoves of this type are called channel stoves), passing through which the flue gases manage to give off more heat to the brickwork. A classic Dutch oven in section is shown in the figure.

Diagram of the device of the Dutch stove

Any complex calculations in the design of the "Dutch" are not required, and it is almost impossible to significantly violate anything in it. Therefore, there is no specific order that must be strictly followed. It is enough to maintain the ratio of the main dimensions within certain limits.

The rapid heating of the furnace is due to a combination of two factors:

  • the area of ​​the inner surface of the flue has been increased (due to the installation of a channel labyrinth);
  • reduced material consumption of the furnace.

Note that the volume of materials used is reduced within reasonable limits - the heat capacity of the furnace is quite sufficient. However, it will not be enough for a whole day - the stove will have to be heated at least twice.

The outlet flue channel is not directed upwards, as in many other furnaces, but to the side, that is, the presence of a pipe is not provided. This feature makes it possible to connect several stoves to one attached (root) chimney. For ancient Holland, this was of fundamental importance, since the tax was levied there precisely on the number of chimneys.

The vault of the furnace is not arched, but flat, which makes the furnace even easier to manufacture.

This is interesting. In Russia, under Peter the Great, there were frequent fires due to the burning of Russian stoves in black. Intending to prevent such incidents, the tsar by a special decree demanded that furnaces be built in the future in the manner of the Dutch. But the stove-makers often fulfilled the royal decree only partially, building stoves only outwardly similar to the Dutch ones. The emphasis was on decoration with tiles, which was typical for the "Dutch women". As a result, confusion arose, which continues to this day: often “Dutch” is called stoves with a design that is not at all characteristic of them, for example, bell-shaped and even some varieties of Russians.

Some inventors have modified the Dutch oven for one purpose or another. For example, I. G. Utermark gave it a round shape.

Utermarkovka

The diagram shows a simplified smoke circulation, consisting of 3 channels, but in some types of undermarking their number could reach 12. The furnace is equipped with a steel casing, thanks to which it became possible to reduce the wall thickness to ¼ of a brick. This has drastically reduced the cost of undermarking, which is why it has firmly established itself in the “budget” segment. But at the same time, the heat capacity also greatly decreased - it is necessary to heat such a furnace quite often. In addition, due to the design features, it has a low efficiency, emits a lot of smoke and quickly overgrows with soot.

Higher technical specifications possesses a Dutch woman of the Soviet inventor V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo. Unlike undermarking, it is equipped with a grate, and there is a cap in the overhead part. The bell version turned out to be very economical - in terms of efficiency, it almost caught up with the Russian stove (over 80%).

In accordance with the needs of the owners of houses in garden plots, a large Dutch stove was transformed into a small country stove, and there are several varieties of such stoves.

An example of a country Dutch stove with a hob

One of them - equipped with a hob - we will learn how to build on our own.

Read also about how to fold the Swedish oven yourself:. The material provides a diagram of the device, the calculation of materials and much more.

Parameter calculation

The main parameters of the furnace are the heat transfer power and the dimensions of the chimney.

To calculate power, you need to know the specific calorific value of the fuel.

Table: calorific value of wood

During flame combustion, a portion of the fuel burns out in about 1 hour, so the power of the furnace operating in this mode will be:

W \u003d Vt x Eud x 0.63 x 0.4 x 0.8, where:

  • W is the heat transfer power of the furnace, kW;
  • Vt - the volume of the furnace, m 3;
  • 0.63 - loading factor of the combustion chamber;
  • 0.4 - furnace efficiency;
  • 0.8 is a coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns in full.

Suppose the furnace firebox has dimensions of 400x300x400 mm. Then, in the case of using birch logs of medium humidity (25%) as fuel, we get the power:

W \u003d 0.4 x 0.3 x 0.4 x 2352 x 0.63 x 0.4 x 0.8 \u003d 22.76 kW.

In accordance with the calculated power, the section of the chimney is selected:

  • with a thermal power of less than 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
  • between 3.5 and 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
  • between 5.2 and 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
  • between 7.2 and 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
  • between 10.5 and 14 kW: 200x270 mm;
  • more than 14 kW: 270x270 mm.

If the chimney used has a circular section (it can be made from pieces of steel pipe or concrete blocks with round holes), then it must have the same area as the indicated rectangular sections.

It should be noted that when the furnace is operated in the smoldering mode, its power is from 10 to 30% of that calculated for flame combustion. But the cross section of the chimney should be selected exactly according to the maximum power.

Necessary materials and tools

The oven is laid out with two types of bricks.

Firebox walls - fireclay bricks

It has a yellow color, can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees.

Note! Externally, fireclay bricks are similar to acid-resistant ones, which is sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers. When buying, ask for a certificate.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks may vary depending on the brand. So, a brick of the ShB-8 brand has the same dimensions as an ordinary building brick - 250x124x65 mm. Chamotte brick of the Sh-5 brand is somewhat reduced: 230x114x40 (65) mm.

Signs of high-quality fireclay bricks are:

  • fine-grained structure;
  • absence of visible pores and inclusions;
  • clear ringing sound when tapped with a hammer;
  • when falling, it breaks into large pieces (low-quality crumbles into small crumbs).

As for the appearance of the brick, more dark color doesn't always mean more high quality. It all depends on the clay deposit: it also happens that lighter fireclay bricks have better characteristics.

It should be noted that since the thermal regime of the Dutch stove is not stressful, its furnace part can be laid out with ceramic stove bricks of the M150 brand, capable of withstanding temperatures up to 800 degrees (not to be confused with ordinary building bricks).

The walls of the furnace can be laid out from clinker bricks, which have high strength and heat resistance. At a cost, it is much more affordable than fireclay.

Furnace body

The remaining parts of the furnace, except for the firebox, can be laid out with ceramic oven bricks, or with bricks of medium quality with a slight cracking.

Ceramic oven brick

Use of second-hand material is allowed.

Materials for clay mortar

Sand

You can use river sand with grains 1 mm in size, preferably angular. But if you want to get a durable furnace that can last more than 10 years, you should use sand without organic impurities. Previously, only very expensive mountain sand had this quality, but today more affordable brick sand can be used instead. It is a ground fireclay or ceramic brick.

The first option is used in solutions for fireclay masonry, the second - for ceramic.

Clay

Mortars for laying fireclay bricks are best prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Ceramic bricks can be laid on a mortar of any ground clay with refractory properties, Cambrian clay (blue or gray) and gray kaolin are considered the most suitable.

Advice. Before buying clay, you need to smell it. If any smell is well heard, even if it is pleasant, then the material contains a large number of organic impurities and it is not worth acquiring it: such a solution will very soon begin to crumble.

Grades of clay with an average fat content are preferred.

Tools

Of the tools, it should be noted the ordering - a flat rail with a section of 50x50 mm, on which risks are applied corresponding to the rows of bricks. Four orders are fixed at the corners in a strictly vertical position (nails are driven into them to be inserted into the seams), after which it will be very easy to make the masonry even.

Tools

Other tools - the usual builder's set: pickaxe hammer, trowel, level and plumb line.

You may also find an article on how to make a brick chimney the right way:.

Preparatory work

Furnaces with a volume of up to 500 bricks can be laid without a foundation, if only the floors in the room are strong enough (capable of bearing a load of up to 250 kg / m 2). A small Dutch country stove with a hob, the construction of which we will consider in detail further, satisfies this condition.

But if the floor in the room clearly does not have the required strength, then it must also be installed on a reinforced concrete foundation.

Scheme of the foundation for a heavy furnace

Its depth is usually 400-600 mm, and the edges should extend beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 100 mm on each side. It is impossible to connect the structure with the foundation of the building - due to various shrinkage, skew may occur.

After pouring the foundation, it must be ironed - sprinkled with cement.

Foundation poured with concrete

When the concrete is ripe - it takes about 1 month, it needs to be covered with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material or roofing felt), after which it will be possible to start building the furnace.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of bricks in place, you need to prepare a clay-sand mortar. The correct ratio of sand and clay depends on the fat content of the latter. To define it, proceed as follows:

  1. After soaking the clay for a day, stir it to a dough state, after which 5 portions of the solution are prepared with different sand content: 10, 25, 50, 75 and 100% of the volume of clay.
  2. After twisting a 30-cm sausage with a diameter of 10-15 mm from each portion, it is wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 40-50 mm and left to dry at room temperature for 2 weeks.

One way to determine the quality of clay

In the presence of:

  • fine mesh cracks or their complete absence, the solution is considered suitable for any part of the furnace;
  • large cracks, but not exceeding 2 mm in depth: the solution is suitable for furnace elements with a temperature not exceeding 300 degrees;
  • deeper cracks and gaps, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Having defined optimal ratio sand and clay, prepare a solution in the right volume. Clay is also soaked for a day, only after that it is still rubbed through a sieve. The sand is sieved and washed. The finished solution should have the consistency of sour cream.

Step by step instructions with order

The oven is laid out row by row according to the order.

Masonry scheme of a small Dutch oven with a hob

Particularly high requirements are imposed on row No. 1, since errors in its laying will lead to a distortion of the entire structure. The bricks should fold into a perfectly regular rectangle, a sign of which is the equality of the diagonals. The upper faces of all blocks must lie in a strictly horizontal plane - this is checked using the building level.

Row one

Advice. Row No. 1 will be easier to give the correct shape if, before laying it, the contour of the future furnace is applied to the waterproofing coating with chalk.

Another trick is to start each row with corner bricks. After they are leveled, it will be easier to lay the rest of the blocks correctly.

oven doors

In masonry, the door will be fixed with a wire. It needs to be inserted into the box, folded in half and twisted. Further, this wire is placed in a groove specially cut in the brick (in the upper edge), bent and intertwined with the masonry.

Before continuing work, it is necessary to establish vertical reference points, according to which it will be convenient to lay out the corners of the furnace. This can be the ordering that was described above, or 4 nylon cords stretched along a plumb line between nails driven into the ceiling and masonry seams.

According to the established guidelines, lay out the corner bricks of the 2nd row, and then the entire row.

Row two

Row number 3 and some others in order are marked in yellow. This means that they are laid out of refractory bricks.

Row three

On top of the bricks of the 3rd row, it is necessary to lay a grate measuring 300x200 mm.

Bricks of row No. 4 should be laid on spoons (long end or edge). The blocks marked in red on the ordering diagram are the support blocks for the internal chimney partition (see above).

One of the bricks on the back side should be laid without mortar and pushed out slightly - it will replace the cleaning door. This brick is called knockout. To access the chimney channel, it will need to be removed from the masonry, and after cleaning it should be installed in place.

The method of cleaning the stove through a knockout brick

In front of the 4th row, it is necessary to install the firebox door. It is equipped with a seal and is fixed in the same way as the blower.

Installing the furnace door

Note. The wire fixing the furnace door quickly burns out from close contact with the flame. In order not to resort to repairing this element too often, use a steel or tin strip instead of wire.

Rows No. 5 and 6 do not need comments - you just need to lay out the bricks according to the order. Just pay attention to the fact that in the 5th row the blocks are placed on the bed (flat), and in the 6th - as in the 4th, on a spoon.

Row six

Row No. 7 is mostly laid out on the bed, but the back wall is laid out on a spoon. In subsequent rows, bricks are laid only on the bed.

Row seven

The front bricks of row No. 8 need to block the furnace door. Blocks hanging over the firebox must be cut at an angle, as shown in the diagram. Thanks to the presence inclined surface, the fire with the furnace door open will deviate back. This will allow the user to enjoy the flames while using the dutch as a fireplace.

Row number 9 needs to be shifted back a little. This creates sufficient counterweight for the heavy cast iron firebox door when it is open.

On top of the 9th row, you need to lay a mineral lining under the hob. You can use strips of asbestos, basalt or kaolin cardboard. A hob is installed on top of the lining. Mounting it on a mortar is unacceptable - due to a significant difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of cast iron and clay. An asbestos cord should be laid in the gap between the slab and the brick.

Note! Some models of hobs have stiffening ribs on the underside. In this case, grooves should be cut in the bricks into which these ribs will be recessed. If such a slab is laid without grooves, it may crack along the line between and parallel to the ribs.

Row number 10 is the source of the chimney. But we will not build the pipe itself out of brick, otherwise the Dutch oven cannot be made light. We will install a stainless steel chimney, especially since a Dutch brick chimney, which is characterized by abundant condensation, would still have to be lined.

A valve should be installed on top of the bricks of the 11th row. As well as the doors, it should be wrapped with asbestos cord.

Valve installation

On the 12th row, it is necessary to make a transition from a rectangular section of brickwork to a round one - a steel chimney. The chimney should be carefully insulated - this is a prerequisite for good traction.

Advice. If you have free funds, you can purchase a prefabricated smoke exhaust system - the so-called sandwich chimney. The kit contains all the necessary parts - from a tee to an umbrella, which are ideally suited to each other in size and equipped with effective insulation.

The chimney is brought out to the street through the ceiling and roof.

The height of its head relative to the grate should be at least 5 m. At the intersection of the ceiling and the roof, it is necessary to arrange fire-prevention cuts - fireproof heat-insulating gaskets are installed between the pipe and the wooden elements. The gap between the chimney and the roofing must be carefully sealed.

Note. In sets of prefabricated sandwich chimneys, both cuttings and a special apron are provided for closing the gap between the pipe and the roofing. Installation of the elements is not difficult, as the kit comes with detailed instructions.

If the floor in the room where the Dutch woman is built is made of wood, it must be protected near the firebox with a fireproof coating. Usually, a steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or more is placed on top of an asbestos lining. The dimensions of the coating must be such that it protects the floor within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the furnace door.

A steel sheet is strengthened in front of the firebox

Large Dutch oven - how to build

All elements - valve, doors, grate - are mounted in the same way as in the version just described. But the design, of course, will be somewhat different: there is already a smoke circulation (channel labyrinth) in which the flue gases give off their heat. The ordering of a large Dutch oven, as well as its scheme, are shown in the figure.

Ordering a large Dutch oven

Decorating a Dutch oven

It has long been customary to decorate a Dutch oven with tiles.

Examples of decorating the stove with tiles

If this method of decoration is not available, a more familiar one will do - the stove can be plastered and whitewashed.

One way or another, if the interior of the room is at least somewhat important for the owner of the stove, the Dutch woman must be ennobled.

Round Dutch finish

In a purely brick version, it looks mean and uninteresting.

Operation features

A characteristic feature of Dutch stoves is that, due to the considerable length of the gas duct, during reheating, flue gases are not completely removed through the chimney and some of them, including poisonous carbon monoxide, can enter the room. To avoid such phenomena, during operation it is necessary to monitor the temperature in the middle of the front surface (chela) - it should not exceed 60 degrees. This is a temperature that is tolerable for the palm, but not for the back of the hand.

Video: do-it-yourself Dutch oven

As you can see, the construction of a Dutch oven is quite within the power of even an absolute beginner in the oven business. In this case, you get a very practical, although not the most economical device. The key to success is to carefully follow the order and our advice. We wish you success!

The beginning of the story

Dutch stove designs have been known since the time of Columbus. It was the 15th century outside. From the next century when the Netherlands became independent. In the XIX century, the "Dutch" dominated throughout the Old World.

With her coming into the life of a person, the latter learned about tiles and tiles. Such brick structures warm up the room soundly and quickly work in the kitchens, however, being “naked”, they do not fit well into the interior.

The classic, original Dutch stove operates according to one simple principle: flue gases, passing an artificially extended path, cool down more completely, giving off heat to the stove itself. There are no physicochemical or thermodynamic nuances here. The original Dutch women were heating stoves in living quarters, and food was cooked on stoves or hearths.

This specificity developed in the harsh Dutch Middle Ages for many reasons.

1. Holland has always been a small country. The local arable fields - polders - are the result of a continuous struggle with the sea. A house was being built on a reclaimed piece of land, in which a stove had to be built in. As a result, the first simple, compact and plastic structures were laid out inside the housing.

2. The local climate is far from sugar. Formed by the Gulf Stream, it remains very uneven in winter: positive thaws can suddenly turn into severe frosts. Therefore, people needed stoves that could quickly heat up with a minimum of fuel. Gradually, a large relationship emerged, where an impressive sinuous inner surface is combined with a small amount of material used in the construction. At the same time, there is a rapid warm-up and a good heat capacity.

3. In those days, homeowners had to pay property tax "from the smoke" (chimneys). Therefore, furnaces began to be equipped with side smoke outlets. As a result, several furnaces were discharged into one pipe. To prevent more powerful stoves from “squeezing out” weaker ones, the labyrinth of chimney channels became more complicated, which excluded the possibility of smoke in the premises.

4. Initially, urban Dutch construction was narrow and tall. For Holland XIV-XV centuries, buildings of 5-6 floors are not uncommon. Since there were no concrete floors, the furnace could not be massive. It was then that box-shaped honeycomb options appeared in Dutch ovens, strength was combined with a relatively low material consumption.

In the starting Dutch women there were deaf fireboxes. However, in the future, the Dutch began to equip stoves with a blower with a door and a grate, and the vault of the furnace became arched. The Netherlands has never experienced problems with high-quality coal fuel (French and German northern deposits are located nearby).

Classic old Dutch stoves require special attention. Today, such structures are the most valuable antiques. Being restored, they can cost more than the buildings in which they are located.

Curiously, in Russia, the term "Dutch" began to be understood not as traditional Dutch stoves, but as any modernized heating appliances with tile trim.

Advantages and disadvantages

The Dutch oven has many advantages. Among others, the following can be mentioned:

Furnace designs remain strong and efficient even in the case of “non-rough” changes (there is a solid supply of functionality);

For the construction of the stove, a small area is required (at least it can be half a meter by half a meter);

· to build a large Dutch oven, you will need several times fewer bricks than to create Russian stoves. Meanwhile, there will be no less heat;

Dutch ovens can be "stretched". They are two-, three- and even four-story;

since such varieties have thin walls and a rational configuration, this allows the use of high-quality refractory brick exclusively for the construction of the firebox. For the rest of the parts, both hollow and even burnt iron brick will do;

Since flue gases in Dutch ovens cool down smoothly in simple gas ducts, there is always a place for a baking oven or a hot water box;

Dutch women are attracted by fast heating and slow cooling. If the oven for a long time did not use, then for her "acceleration" additional heating is not needed: you can heat immediately, but there will be no cracks;

Dutch stoves can boast of increased heat dissipation: an impressive structure can heat up to 60 "squares" of living space.

However, some disadvantages need to be mentioned:

Almost all models have a rather low efficiency (no more than 40%). To raise the level of efficiency, the complication of structures is required;

Waste fuel is not suitable here, because there is little heat from it and it is safely weathered. For the Dutch, smoldering will be the best mode;

Due to the fact that the heat capacity of Dutch ovens is low, to maintain a normal operating mode, it is required to heat them at least twice a day;

When using inexpensive high-ash fuel, the chimney is clogged from the inside with a large amount of soot. If it is not cleaned, then it may ignite;

In case of overheating, Dutch women can emit carbon monoxide.

In view of the foregoing, we can summarize: there are much fewer disadvantages than advantages. Thanks to this, Dutch ovens are extremely widespread. In the future, there were varieties and improvements.

The Dutch oven has a lot of advantages in its design and significance. It is very possible to fold such a structure with your own hands. A person who is swift, accurate and attentive does not need to be a master - a bricklayer or a builder. It is enough to delve into the very idea of ​​\u200b\u200bcreating a Dutch woman, follow the instructions of specialists and study in detail all the moments of addition. Then you can decorate your interior at the highest level.

Features of the Dutch

Before you decide to fold yourself, you need to decide what qualities it can have. It is known that this is a heating stove with developed vertical chimney channels, designed for heating. Now there are a large number of modifications, therefore, depending on the chosen design, you will receive certain advantages and additional functionality. It is known that it differs from others in its compactness and relative lightness.

Different versions may have both a hob and chimney channels of varying complexity, which will provide an increased thermal effect. The description of the classical circuit says that it should be:

  • rectangular
  • have a chimney outlet
  • tiling

Moreover, the latter, for a real Dutch woman, were mandatory, the firebox was a deaf chamber, did not have a grate and a blower, which appeared over time.

Advantages of the oven

  1. In the absence of significant errors, changes in the design do not adversely affect its performance.
  2. Considerable potential for modifications and upgrades, which are easy to produce.
  3. If necessary, it can have amazingly small dimensions, it is 0.5x0.5 m in diameter.
  4. A small amount of brick is required. A large Dutch woman will require 650 pieces, when a small Russian one will require from 1300. At the same time, she will have the same productivity as a large Russian, which will need from 2500. Relatively small mass. In some cases, this allows you to place it on the intermediate floor.
  5. The ability to significantly increase the height, and therefore the vertical channels of the chimney, without loss of efficiency.
  6. Not demanding on materials. Only the firebox is laid out of refractory bricks. Otherwise, due to the thermal balance, heat-resistant elements are not required.
  7. A few turns of the chimney and a small thickness of its walls allow you to warm up the room quickly. At the same time, this dynamics allows you to save fuel during occasional use.
  8. Fairly high heat transfer capacity, although this is also a disadvantage.

Cons and disadvantages

  1. The classic Dutch woman has a low efficiency and loses to a scheme with more extended chimney channels.
  2. Vertically located, extended sections of the chimney contribute to accelerated cooling after the fire has died out.
  3. Unlike metal potbelly stoves, the use of light, vigorously burning fuel is less advisable, as with other massive brick products. True, this often mentioned drawback is more inherent in the hearth samples of the old time.
  4. Compared to others, which have extended horizontal channels in the wall, it loses in heat capacity. As a result, more frequent flooding is required.
  5. A design with thin walls, with frequent overheating, can lead to cracks. Subsequently, through cracks, carbon monoxide can penetrate into the room.
  6. Thin walls can become very hot and the proximity of combustible materials can be a fire hazard.

Drawings and diagrams

Before starting work, it is necessary to dwell on the choice of a stove, whether it will be with or without a stove, the presence of an oven, dimensions, and find the required drawing.

Dutch woman with stove and oven flue gas outlet drawing

dutch three-turn drawing

Preparation for work, materials and tools

In order to start the main work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the materials in detail. So, what kind of working tool do you need to purchase? You will need a red full-bodied ceramic brick, which can be of medium quality. You can also use the old one, which is often denser and has a high thermal conductivity. But when using old brick, cladding is required. You need to decide which clay you are dealing with in order to adjust its properties. To get strong seams that will not crumble, the solution is made plastic, and clay must be used with medium fat content. There is a way to increase the strength of clay plaster by adding 100 - 150 g of ordinary salt to the composition. However, this works for permanent job ovens.

In idle time, salt gains moisture and the solution, swelling, crumbles. Still, it is much more important to determine its fat content. Skinny, will have to be elutriated, and excessively oily, mixed with an additional amount of sand, the proportion of which can reach up to 5 parts by volume. It is not difficult to determine the proportion of sand and clay for masonry mortar. Take about a liter of clay and divide it into 5 parts. Next, each part must be mixed with sand in the following proportions:

  • do not add
  • four to one
  • two to one
  • one to one
  • one to two

Add water to each composition until it resembles dough and roll into balls, leave them to dry for 3 days. “Correct” balls should not crack and, when dropped from a height of a meter, do not fall apart. The composition of the cake that has passed the test is the desired one for work.

Foundation, ordinal masonry

The Dutch woman requires a certain amount of time and effort. Remember, by doing quality work, you will achieve a quality result of your work for a long period of time.

Under the base of the structure, it is necessary to equip the foundation, according to its mass and dimensions.

foundation pit

  • depending on the weight and soil, it will have to be buried from 50 to 80 cm. It is desirable to make its size larger than the linear dimensions of the section, by 20 cm on each side, and for a large furnace and 25;
  • a sand cushion is arranged, about 15 cm thick, which is spilled with water and compacted;
  • next comes rubble;
  • various factions;
  • rubble material;
  • from above, the pillow is poured with concrete into the formwork, if desired, it can be reinforced with metal. After pouring, it should be allowed to gain strength, at least for a week.

Finally, they get to work using an ordinary scheme. A person who already has minimum experience, able to lay out a simple stove on their own.

This will require a minimum set of tools:

  • bushhammer;
  • Master OK;
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • cord;

Availability of additional tools such as:

  • A grinder, with a diamond wheel or a laser level will only speed things up.
  • For the installation of floors, you will need metal corners with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm, from which, if possible, weld tee supports.

Need to cook:

  • grate
  • damper
  • doors for the furnace and ash pan (preferably cast iron, as it has a slight thermal expansion)
  • doors for cleaning chimney channels can be simply iron, sometimes “knock-out” bricks are installed instead
  • you will also need an asbestos or ceramic cord and wire to install the doors

If you have the whole set in stock, you can proceed.

Do-it-yourself laying rows

On many resources, it is advised to lay the first row of bricks without mortar, in last resort, on a thin layer of moistened sand. It's not very good advice. Minor bumps or a small pebble under the waterproofing, subsequently, can create a significant point load that can crack a brick or several. The solution, however, allows you to evenly distribute the weight over the foundation. That is, the solution under the first row should be!

Next, using the instructions, we begin to lay the waterproofing material. It should be noted that the thickness of the seams in this case will differ from the usual installation. It is necessary to maintain a gap within 3 - 4 mm. This is necessary for greater stability of the brick and to reduce the likelihood of mortar shedding subsequently. In the classic case, the blower door is laid in the second and third row. It is fastened into existing holes with wire, which is put into the seams.

Laying the grate

Next comes the row in which the grate is laid. For it, you need to leave small gaps for expansion or subsequent easy replacement, if necessary. The next four rows form the walls of the firebox. The working walls of the furnace are lined with refractory bricks, laying it on a spoon, “ruba”.

Door installation

During installation, the main door is laid with an asbestos cord. It will allow without harm to perceive the thermal expansion of materials and ensure tightness around the perimeter. The same as at the bottom door, wire fasteners are laid in the seams, and if the wire bundle is thick, grooves are cut in the bricks. Blocking the door, half a brick is laid above it or a lock connection is arranged, cutting the bricks with a wedge.

The subsequent number of rows depends on the estimated volume of the firebox. They can be 3 or 4, based on the required height. As a result, when the fuel chamber is formed, a ceiling is laid on metal supports, with an opening for a continuing chimney.

smoke channels

After, there is a part in which circulating smoke channels are formed. Exist different variants and the number of rows will also depend on the height. In the process, you need to monitor the thickness of the seams and linear dimensions. Sometimes it's worth checking the diagonal dimensions, which will show accumulating offsets.

View bookmark

After the end of the smoke cycles, several reinforcing rows are laid in which the view is laid. You can continue with a brick chimney, with a knee and additional support on the ceiling. Less preferred is a continuation with a steel sandwich, which will inevitably produce condensate and have different thermodynamic characteristics.

In any case, continuing the construction of the chimney, at the intersection with the ceiling, its cross section and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be increased. Be sure to apply refractory insulation, and treat the wooden floor elements with flame retardant. The inner surface of the channels must be smooth. In the process, it is mopped with a damp cloth in the same way as a chimney. A light trial firebox can be made no earlier than after 10 days, to check the draft.

Plaster, cladding and decor

To veneer, like a real Dutch woman, with tiles, not every master can do it. The device of tiles and the method of their installation makes this a difficult matter. However, if in the process the space of the boxes behind the tile is filled with fireclay sand, the thermal inertia will increase many times over. It should be noted that in this case, its weight will become much larger. I would recommend tiling for old surfaces.

Pre-plastering will help seal microcracks, and tiles will increase heat transfer. A reinforcing mesh must be laid in the plaster. And for tiles, use a special heat-resistant adhesive. After that, there is still no guarantee that the tile will not start to lag behind after accidental overheating. Therefore, they are most often plastered if the brick is ugly or the masonry is sloppy.

For plastering, you will need a slightly thinner composition used for masonry. To do this, you can add a tenth of the sand to it. A binder should be added to the plaster composition. It can be asbestos fiber, fiberglass, the people often used chaff formed during threshing of cereals. This greatly increases the integrity of the layer when dried. Plaster with warm, cracks and seams, cleaned of dust and thoroughly moistened with water.

Now it is easy to purchase a fine-mesh metal mesh. Fix it to the masonry surface with nails, hammering them into the seams at an angle and the plaster will not crack. The applied layers should be thin, about 3 mm. First there is a more liquid layer, then thicker. After setting, while the surface is still soft, rub it with a grater, smoothing out minor flaws.

After complete hardening, the surface is covered with lime milk. Corners can be decorated with tiles imitating artificial stone, glued with heat-resistant glue. If a new ceramic brick was used, the stove can be carefully “embroidered” and coated with heat-resistant varnish.


Do-it-yourself Dutch brick video ovens

A MUST SEE EVERYONE!

Today, there are many modern heating systems, but a brick oven in the house is always and will be the embodiment of comfort and coziness.

In this article, I present to your attention one of the modern brick ovens - the Dutch. Design features of the stove, advantages and disadvantages, varieties and the most interesting thing is how to build a Dutch woman on your own, the procedure for laying the stove, you will also learn about all this in this wonderful material.

A beautiful and concise Dutch oven will decorate any interior. Rectangular, round or triangular, it does not take up much space and will fit into any corner of the room.

The Dutch woman in many ways surpasses the usual Russian stove - it differs high speed heating, small size, convenience, efficiency and ergonomics.

In this regard, the Dutch oven is ideal for both a country house and a bath. Such a design can be laid out with your own hands, but subject to the instructions for production.

There are many types of ovens. I would like to note some of them as often occurring.

  • Classic.
  • With a fireplace.
  • With stove.
  • In the form of a column.

Column furnaces were close to Soviet citizens, because they were mainly used in low-rise construction. By the way, such devices worked on wood, coal, and gas. And they behaved perfectly on any of these types of fuel.

True, Soviet engineers approached the increase in heat transfer in a peculiar way. They proposed to build a metal casing around the brick walls of the stove, which heated up and gave off more thermal energy.

If we draw parallels between the Dutch and the classic Russian stove, the first one is able to heat the room much faster, since it has a smaller wall thickness. Like any other design, it has its pros and cons.

What is attractive about the device of the Dutch oven:

  • Ease of laying compared to pyrolysis or bell heaters.
  • Rough can be laid out of ceramic bricks of any quality, as long as it is full-bodied.
  • Thanks to the repeated ordering, the stove rises to the required height and is able to heat 2-3 floors at the same time.
  • The building is small in plan.
  • Wood of any quality burns in the chamber, and the network of channels quickly warms up the rough and the heated room.

Do-it-yourself Dutch stove is being built quite quickly and not difficult.

It has relatively few negatives. Of them special attention are awarded the following features:

  • Non-thick walls are called to comply with all fire safety standards, the surface near the structure must be lined with heat-resistant and heat-resistant materials.
  • It is necessary to build a separate foundation and a chimney under the Dutch woman, and the first is often done simultaneously with the foundation of the house, but is not tied up with it.
  • Fuel consumption is not very economical.
  • If the view remains open after the furnace, the furnace cools down instantly. The channel system of the chimney works like a hood.
  • When using high-ash fuel, a lot of soot accumulates, which increases the likelihood of fire and fire.

However, there are many positive aspects, which eliminate all of the above disadvantages:

  • You can independently choose the future configuration of the model and options for exterior finishes.

    • Differential furnace dimensions.

    Dutch are found in various sizes. But even the smallest Dutch woman with an area of ​​\u200b\u200b0.25 square meters. m. will easily heat the room.

    The high above-furnace part of the stove only increases the efficiency of the Dutch woman and allows you to build the stove on two floors. Less common are Dutch three- and four-story houses.

    The design has a relatively small dimensions, thanks to which it is placed even in the smallest rooms.

  • Good heat transfer performance, which makes it possible to heat the room in a short time.
  • A Dutch woman with a water circuit heats more rooms and provides hot water all House.

    • The minimum amount of building materials.

    It takes almost two times less bricks to lay a Dutch stove than to build an ordinary Russian stove. For example, a large Dutch oven will require 700 pieces of bricks, and a small Russian oven will take about 1400 pieces.

    In addition, the small size and stable configuration of the stove allows the use of hollow bricks or already used bricks as resources. A good refractory brick is placed only in the furnace area.

  • High thermal conductivity allows the use minimal amount fuel. This oven heats up quickly and cools down slowly. Kindling after a long break is quick and unnecessary cracks do not appear.
  • The efficiency of the unit is not affected by design changes. It is important to follow the masonry technology exactly. Although functional additions may be great amount. For example, a Dutch oven with a stove bench, with a hob, with an oven, and so on.
  • Additions, both structural and functional, do not reduce the efficiency of the stove. So a Dutch oven with a stove is one of the most common options.
  • The height of the unit does not affect its efficiency in any way.
  • The small thickness of the walls of the stove, rational design and shape make it practically insensitive to temperature changes. And accordingly, it practically does not deform.
  • For its construction, a high-quality brick is needed, which is only used to cover the firebox. The rest of the construction does not require high quality materials. The walls can be built from hollow bricks or from defective (iron ore).
  • A gas duct that is simple in configuration, a smooth temperature drop makes it possible to build an oven or a hot water tank into the stove. So the functionality of the device can be further increased.
  • Fast heating and slow cooling.
  • After a long downtime, the Dutchman does not have to be heated. You can download it right away.

The principle of operation of the furnace

Dutch is very versatile. It acts as a heating device. It can also be considered as an interior decoration - a fireplace. To do this, just open the firebox doors.


Despite the fact that the classic Dutch is placed without a stove, if desired, you can add a hob for cooking.

Classical Dutch stoves are deprived of the blower and grates that are familiar to us, which only contributes to an increase in the percentage of heat transfer: you can put a lot of firewood in the firebox and “forget” about them for quite a long time.

They will burn very, very, very slowly, since the flow of oxygen that supports combustion enters the Dutchman only through the only hole present in such a furnace - the firebox door.

Thin walls - just one brick - provide rapid penetration of heat into the room and heating the room in a short period. Small stoves, meter by meter in size, are capable of heating a medium-sized dwelling, for example, a room of 35 square meters will heat up from a Dutch woman in an hour.

A distinctive feature of the Dutch oven is the absence of a cast-iron panel, which is used for cooking. The stove is always rectangular and because of this standard shape, some stove-makers call it primitive. But this in no way detracts from its ergonomics and economy, which make the stove in demand among developers.

Dutch stoves have two recognizable shapes: rectangular and round.


Externally, the oven is made very simply - brickwork serves at the same time as a design element (as an option, you can also use tiles).

Inside, the Dutch stove is equipped with a solid firebox of impressive size and six smoke circulation channels arranged in such a sequence that the heated gases, entering those of them called lifting ones, cool down slightly, heating the furnace structure in parts.

That is, schematically it goes like this:

  • The flow of gases in the most heated state into the first lifting channel.
  • The flow of gases slightly cooled in the first channel into the second channel.
  • The flow of gases that have sufficiently cooled in the first two passes into the third channel.

This sequence allows the stove to warm up gradually and protects its surface from cracking and cracks, which would certainly occur during instant heating.

Rising and falling, the gases go through all six revolutions, providing heat circulation.

When laying such a stove, it is imperative to adhere to parameters that absolutely do not correspond to the parameters of a bulky Russian stove. And the point is not so much in the elegance of the Dutch woman, but in the height of her firebox.

It is lower than that of a traditional Russian stove - 25 cm from the floor level. This height ensures the uniformity of heating along the height of the room by shifting the level of the steam balls.

Modern heating and cooking stove-Dutch

To maximize the functionality of the hearth, the stove-makers supplemented it with a hob and an oven. Such a modification has become a worthy alternative to the multifunctional, but cumbersome and expensive Russian stove.

The cast-iron plate is mounted at the height of the third, fourth or fifth row from the firebox. The stove is located in a niche of a high structure, but this design looks spectacular and is convenient enough to use the device for its intended purpose.

A cast iron oven is placed above the firebox. For this purpose, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made accessory. If you need a Dutch oven with a stove and oven, the compact dimensions of the design expand a little. The oven is built in parallel with the door of the furnace compartment, and the hob is placed above the furnace.

Modern man needs not only warmth and food, but also spectacles.

The answer to the increased needs was Dutch stoves with fireplace inserts, closed with transparent fire-resistant glass doors.

To build a Dutch fireplace stove with your own hands, you should slightly expand the base of the structure. The formation of an ash pan and a chimney begins already on the second row of masonry, and holes for cleaning are also provided here.

Inexperienced craftsmen, starting to delve into the process of building a hearth, often face a problem: those designs for which there is enough knowledge become uninteresting, and complex and functional stoves require skill.

Do-it-yourself Dutch oven

What materials will be needed to build a Dutch oven with a stove for the house.

  • Standard fire bricks in standard sizes. The answer to the question of how many bricks are needed will depend on the scheme of the furnace. On average, it takes 200 pieces to fold a Dutch oven.
  • Approximately 0.4 cubic meters of clay.
  • River sifted sand without lumps and foreign inclusions, especially organic matter.
  • Free access to water.
  • The door for the firebox, better than factory-made.
  • If a heating and cooking stove with a stove is being built, then a ready-made cast iron stove will be required.

The tool is prepared, as for any masonry work. After everything is prepared, including clearing the place, the material is stored within reach without interrupting the work process, you can begin to build a stove with a stove.


For laying the Dutch, ceramic solid bricks are used.

Although you can build a Dutch oven in any shape, be it oval, round or square, the classic version is characterized by a strictly rectangular shape.

If you decide to allow the variability of the shape of the furnace, you should know that the shape of the firebox, despite everything, remains constant - rectangular. The main difference between the Dutch oven and other varieties is the absence of a grate.

The design of the furnace consists of the following main structural elements:

  • ash pan;
  • a firebox (firebox) is a furnace niche, which is located at the base in the lower part of the furnace and is intended for laying coal or firewood;
  • smoke circulation;
  • cleaning compartment;
  • the chimney, of which the exhaust pipe is an integral part, forms a six-channel system, consisting of 3 lifting and 3 lowering channels, which are located one below the other, which ensures the sequential passage of gases through the system. But, unlike traditional stoves, the design of the Dutch woman does not imply the presence of a grate;
  • valves for regulating the intensity of traction.

Due to the absence of a blower and a grate, the firewood in this stove is characterized by a low burning intensity, since the oxygen that enters the fuel only through the firebox door is not enough to maintain active combustion.

Due to the fact that this stove is characterized by small dimensions, it will successfully fit into the interior of any room, and, importantly, it allows you to equip both gas and water heating systems.

Operating procedure:

  1. Decide on the location of the oven. It is good if it is located in such a way as to heat two rooms at the same time.
  2. The foundation must be taken care of at least a week before the start of construction.
  3. Before starting work, we draw or print out the order, stock up necessary quantity tools, bricks, prepared clay and cement mortar and other materials.
  4. We take the dimensions of the foundation somewhat larger than the base of the furnace. We disassemble the floor logs, dig a pit to a depth of about half a meter. If the distance between the foundation of the house and the furnace is very small, we will subsequently make a sandy layer between them.
  5. We mix the cement mortar - three parts of water to one part of cement.
  6. Pour the first layer of mortar to the bottom of the foundation pit.
  7. We prepare several metal rods of the same length (10-15 cm less than the length of the pit). We put them in the solution, observing the distance between the bars up to 12 cm.
  8. We again fill in a layer of cement mortar (about 10 cm) and repeat the process of laying the reinforcement.
  9. We bring the foundation "under zero", that is, we make it flush with the floor, gradually pouring the solution.
  10. Gently sprinkle the upper part of the last uncured layer through a sieve with dry cement powder (“iron”).
  11. In the process of work, it is necessary to strictly check the horizontal level of the surface.

Dutch ovens are placed on the foundation. If you already have a finished living space with a good flooring and repairs, all this will have to be sacrificed a little: to disassemble the floor and create conditions for pouring the foundation.

  • Make the foundation shallow, but as even as possible - it depends on how easy it will be for you to lay out the rows of the stove.
  • Put a waterproofing layer on the foundation - pieces of roofing material, for example. Top the insulation with a thin layer of clean sand and sprinkle it with water.
  • The raw materials for the mortar for laying the furnace are sieved from large lumps and stones, the lumps can be broken. It is advisable to do this operation several times.
  • As a sieve, the mesh from the armored bed, installed obliquely on any support, is perfect. Then the sifted clay is filled with water and soaked for several hours. Make sure that the water is completely absorbed into the clay, it is better to drain the excess immediately.
  • After the clay swells, it is kneaded with sand, how much sand will need to be laid depends on the composition of the clay. Most often, kneading is carried out in a ratio of 1: 1 and 1/8 of the water is added (from the resulting volume!).
  • When working, pre-immerse each individual brick in water for a few seconds, otherwise it will excessively absorb moisture from the mortar.
  • Lay the first row dry. i.e., do not use the solution.
  • Lay the second and third rows already on the mortar, while the third row is the final one in the “flat” position. In subsequent rows, to the very top of the door, lay the brick "on edge".
  • Fourth and fifth rows - arrange a stand for the chimney partition and lay a couple of “cleaning” bricks without mortar. During operation, they will periodically have to be removed to clean the chimney.
  • At the level of the sixth row, provide a place for the door, fix it in the seams with steel wire.
  • In the seventh row, lay the bricks flat again, except for the back wall. The back wall is still "on edge".
  • The peculiarity of the laying of the eighth row is to lay the brick obliquely. This will allow you to use the combustion unit as a fireplace.
  • In the ninth row, move the brick back a little and put heat-resistant material on top (usually put an asbestos cord).
  • In the tenth row, form the base of the chimney.
  • In the eleventh row, embed the valve and form the joint of the furnace with the chimney.

The oven is ready. It remains only to thoroughly dry and test the creation of your hands.

Finishing work is always organized to your taste. Do-it-yourself oven is whitened, lined decorative tiles. You can use tiles. But if the process of creating the furnace was neat, then the front of the brick will look great.

For safe operation, a sheet of steel is fixed to the floor, which will protect against accidental release of coal, and, therefore, fire.

Having completed everything that was planned, do not rush to start using or drying. Drying takes at least 15 days. Moreover, it is important to naturally dry the inside, so the door to the firebox is left open.

And after 2 weeks, they begin to fully ignite. It is best to burn a small amount of paper to test the traction before use. If everything is done correctly, then the smoke will pass into the chimney without problems.

For a room with an area of ​​​​40 square meters. meters, you can calculate the required dimensions of the furnace. With a furnace height of 210 mm, the optimal size is 780 x 580 mm.

To improve the quality of masonry, before using bricks, experts advise each of them to be immersed in water for several minutes, which helps to remove air bubbles from them.

Thanks to the implementation of this procedure, the brick will not absorb the mortar, which will improve the quality of the masonry.

Since the door frames installed during the masonry process are subject to temperature effects, they must be wrapped with asbestos cord or varnished with refractory properties before being installed in the Dutch oven.

The most common problem requiring repair measures for a furnace that was previously in operation is chipping of bricks at the ends and corners of the furnace. To prevent this, during the laying process, they are finished with specialized plates of various shapes.

Another important indicator of the quality and long-term operation of the Dutch stove, according to experienced stove-makers, is the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof slabs. Ideally, it should be at least 15 cm.

Experts recommend building walls one brick thick for small structures, and two bricks for more massive structures. Only this thickness can provide maximum heat transfer with minimum fuel consumption, typical for a Dutch oven.

How to deal with condensation

When burning firewood, tar condensate settles on the walls of the chimney, which flows down and forms peculiar stalactites in the furnace. Of course, some of these stalactites burn out, but some of them harden and create an obstacle to the flow of outgoing gases.

To avoid this, you can do the following:

  • pre-dry the firewood;
  • increase the combustion temperature;
  • from time to time, burn the structure to a “red heat”.

It is impossible to neutralize such negative factors, but they can be reduced.

The assembly of the chimney must be carried out against the movement of gases - so most of them will be burned.

The chimney must be quickly dismantled if necessary. To do this, it is connected with self-tapping screws.

You can experiment with different combustion modes, choose optimum temperature. For a visual assessment of fuel combustion, it is necessary to inspect the combustion chamber after cooling. If stalactites have formed, then you need to increase the temperature.