Documents are stapled to ensure their integrity. Sequential numbering, as well as fastening sheets with cord or thread, completely solve this problem.

Sometimes lacing is necessary according to the rules established by the organization, sometimes - according to the law. In this article, we will look at how to properly flash documents in office work.

What documents need to be bound?

In office work, documentation is most often stapled in order to transfer it to the archive, or when providing it to a bank and other financial institutions. Also, firmware documents are required when submitting reports to off-budget funds and in the FTS. The document must not only be stitched, but also numbered. Papers are sewn together either with thread or tape, or with the help of special machines.

The following types of documentation are subject to firmware:

  • orders (both general and personal);
  • staffing;
  • reports (eg advance report);
  • invoices;
  • acts of work performed;
  • cash book;
  • statements.

It is also necessary to stitch sheets of documentation when applying for participation in a tender and in other cases.

Video - how to stitch files before archiving:

Regulations

The regulatory framework that today regulates the procedure for flashing documentation is very wide, however, most of the regulations have not been updated for a long time.

Thus, the main act that regulates the process of firmware documentation is the order of the Ministry of the Russian Federation for Taxes and Duties dated April 18, 2003, containing general instructions for filling out certain types papers, including their firmware.

In addition to this document, the following regulations can be distinguished:

  • GOST R 51141-98 “Office work and archiving. Terms and Definitions".
  • Order of the Federal Tax Service dated January 25, 2012 N ММВ-7-6/25. According to this order, the mandatory firmware of documentation is canceled when submitting documents for registration of an organization or individual entrepreneur, however, the Federal Tax Service still prefers to accept stitched sheets.

Video - how to file things correctly:

The firmware of documentation in some areas of activity is regulated by separate resolutions of the organizations responsible for the field. So, the firmware in banking regulates the Instruction of the Central Bank of the Russian Federation “On office work in central bank RF".

Requirements for government agencies

Documentation requirements for government agencies differ from the requirements for papers upon delivery, for example, to the archive. So, in order to file papers with the court or the tax office, you must follow the rules below:

  • documents must be fastened in 3 holes;
  • the distance between the punctures should not exceed 3 cm;
  • paper is sewn with thread or thin twine;
  • paper 3x5 cm in size is glued on the last page, on which an authentication signature and seal are put.

Special requirements are imposed on accounting reports, while the knot on the last page must be sealed with tissue paper.

How to flash documents

Documents can be stitched with both threads and lace or ribbon. This process must be taken responsibly, because if the firmware is of poor quality, weak, then the papers can be easily separated, which should not be allowed, because they are stitched so that another document cannot be attached to them or part of it can be lost.

Moreover, if you are stitching papers for submission to government bodies, then an incorrectly executed firmware may lead to the fact that the Federal Tax Service, extra-budgetary funds or the court simply refuse to accept them.

In 2 punctures

Firmware in 2 holes itself is simple. Holes can be made either with a needle or with a hole punch. Of course, it is easier to pass the thread, ribbon or cord through the holes made by the hole punch.

Punctures should be from the left edge of the sheet (like a regular book) about 1-2 cm from it. After you pierce the paper, you need to pass the thread through the hole several times and tie the ends of the thread with a knot on the last page.

Video showing how documents are sewn together with threads through 2 holes:

In the upper right corner of each sheet, you need to put the page number.

After that, the stitched documentation must be fastened by sticking 3x5 cm paper on the ends of the thread so that the ends peek out from under it. The inscription “Stitched and numbered” is put on the paper, and the number of pages is also indicated. After, depending on where the papers will be provided, such details as the signature of the official, seal, date are put on the paper.

for 3 holes

The situation is somewhat more complicated with three-hole firmware, especially if you immediately pierce the sheets with a thread and a needle, and do not use a hole punch. To stitch paper into three holes, follow the steps below. step by step instructions with schema:

  1. Make the first puncture with a needle and thread on the back of the document to be stitched in the middle of the sheet

  1. The second puncture with a needle is made on the front side of the document.

  1. The next puncture should be done from the back of the third hole

  1. In the next step, we skip the needle and thread into the first hole - in the middle of the document on the front side

  1. Then you should tighten the threads so that they tightly pull the stitched sheets together and tie a knot as shown in the photo

The video clearly explains how to sew documents into 3 holes:

for 4 holes

This type of firmware is done only for documents that have a special status of importance.

To sew documentation into 4 holes, follow the following diagram and step-by-step instructions:

If the document to be stapled contains many sheets, then four holes can be pre-prepared using a hole punch, drill, or special machine.

  1. Start threading from the back of the second hole from the edge.

  1. Next, the thread is threaded into the hole, which is closest to the edge and the previously passed hole.

  1. Then we thread the thread again in the same way as in the first step.

  1. Next - from the front side to the next hole from

  1. In the extreme puncture from the back

  1. From the front side of the hole that we went through in the fourth step

  1. And connect the ends of the thread

  1. At the same time, we try to pull the thread so that it tightly compresses the sheets of documents

  1. It remains to tie the thread with a knot

  1. Trim excess thread ends

If the documents are stitched correctly, it remains to number the sheets and stick paper on top of the knot with the inscription “Stitched, numbered and sealed with the seal of ______ (______) sheets” and put down necessary details certifying person (position, signature and full name).

Video - how to sew a case into 4 holes:

to the corner

Some papers may be stapled at the corner, i.e. in the upper left corner. To do this, you need to make one or two holes in the corner and pass the thread through them several times.

Video - a sample of stitching documents through the corner:

A sheet of paper, as in other cases, is glued to a knot of thread, and the details necessary for certification are put on it.

How to number sheets

In most cases, the numbering of sheets during firmware does not cause difficulties, however, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

  • most often, page numbers are placed in ascending Arabic numerals;
  • The sheet number is at the top right. The figure should not enter the contents of the sheet;
  • if there are applications, then they should also be numbered (continuous numbering is used);
  • if letters with envelopes are attached to the documentation, then the number on the envelope is put first, and then only on the sheets of the letter;
  • if you number a case in which there are several volumes, then each of them is numbered separately;
  • if it is necessary to number a sheet of a non-standard format, the number is also placed in the upper right corner. If the sheet goes beyond the document, then it is folded and filed in the general manner;
  • if there are several scans of small fragments on the sheet (for example, checks), then it is recommended to draw up an inventory for the sheet and attach it to the documentation package, numbering in the general order.

How to certify a stitched document

After flashing and numbering the sheets, the documentation package must be certified. To secure it, paper is glued to the thread knot on the back so as to leave the very ends of the thread free.

On paper, you must indicate the number of sheets (both in numbers and in words). If there are torn or damaged pages in the bound document, this can also be indicated on the certification paper.

Further, it indicates the full name, position and signature of the person who stitched the sheets or certifies them (for example, the head). A seal is placed on top of the paper in such a way that its imprint is both on the certification paper and on the last sheet.

Fixes

When flashing, a clerk can make a number of mistakes, which, fortunately, can be corrected. Consider the most common of them:

  • part of the papers not included. It happens that the clerk did not attach some part of it to an already stitched document. In this case, there are two solutions: you can hem the missing part as a separate volume, or you can reflash the document again. In no case can you simply put the missing part into an already stitched package of papers;
  • mistake in numbering. If a sheet is missing in the numbering, then you can resort to literary numbering, that is, write a letter after the number, for example, 14, 15, 15a, 16 ... If serious errors are made in the numbering, then you can cross out the wrong numbers and write them again. If the number of sheets indicated on the certification paper has gone astray, then it is also necessary to correct the number of sheets in it for the correct one.

Firmware documents are needed in order to exclude the possibility of substitution or insertion of sheets into it. Depending on the importance of the document, it can be stitched into 2, 3 or even 4 holes. After the firmware, the sheets are numbered and a certification paper is attached to the node indicating the number of sheets and the name of the witness. A stamp, date and other necessary details are put on top of the paper.

Video - flashing documents for the archive and making hardcover:

Binding - important point when creating a book, because it depends on how long it will last. If you need to make a binding - there are two options, hand it over to professionals and pay a lot of money for it, or do everything yourself. We'll show you how!

How to make a book binding with your own hands?

Hardcover is a very lengthy and not simple matter, here you need to do everything exactly, without any mistakes. For this work we need:

Boards, 2 pcs.;

Clamps, 2 pcs.;

File for metal;

Brush for glue;

Scissors;

Paper knife.

These are just tools, you should also prepare the necessary materials:

PVA glue;

Threads, thick, white;

White fabric (slightly stiffer than gauze);

Cardboard for the cover (or the cover itself);

Fabric roller for the spine.

Let's get started!

1. We print a book on a printer. It must be taken into account that we are not making a book from notebooks, as is usually done in printing houses. In our case, we will simply fasten sheets of paper.

2. Next, you should align the pages of our future book well. Just take a stack of paper, lay out all the sheets in right order and align all the edges. This can be done by tapping each side of the stack on the table.

3. Let's put the sheets on the edges of the table so that the left edge protrudes a little (hanging over the table). We put some kind of load on top of the sheets. You can use a piece of paper or a book. Lubricate the left edge of the book with PVA glue. Leave for 3-4 minutes to dry.

4. Further, when the pack has dried up a little, and we can move it more boldly, we move it completely onto the table or plank so that it does not hang down. We put another board on top and fix it with clamps. We leave for a few hours.

PVA glue dries in 12 hours, but in our case, 3-4 hours is enough.

5. After 4 hours, remove the clamps, and move the two planks (between which the paper) to the edge of the table. They should protrude over the edge of the table by 2 centimeters. We put forward the paper from the planks by 2 millimeters. Clamp with clamps and pick up a pencil. We make markup in order to know in the future where to connect the thread.

You can choose the interval between the sections yourself, from 1 to 3 centimeters.

With a saw for metal, we make a section with a depth of 1 millimeter.

6. We take the rope, cut it into segments 5 cm larger than the thickness of the book and insert it into the cuts.

In order not to get your hands dirty with glue, prepare a piece of paper the size of a spine.

7. Let's start gluing. We insert the ropes, their ends should look out 2-3 centimeters on both sides. Carefully grease the spine with PVA glue, and carefully glue the gauze and rollers. Again we drag everything with glue, and stick a piece of paper. We leave everything for 12 hours to dry.

8. Let's move on to the design of the flyers. For them we will use white Whatman paper (other colors are possible). Try to find the most good paper, as the cover will hold on it. We use A4 sheets, since we have an A5 book. Fold two sheets in half. Glue the flyleaf to the book. Having smeared with glue 3-4 millimeters in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe fold, we attach first on one side, then on the second. For half an hour we put under the press.

9 . Let's do the cover in the meantime. We take measurements on a piece of cardboard and draw them. The sheet should be divided into three parts, on two of them there will be a crust, on the third spine. Dimensions should exceed the size of the book by 2-3 centimeters.

10. We insert white paper into the markup.

11. Glue it on and cut off the corners.

12 . We wrap the excess cardboard in the middle and glue it well.

13. We make a cover using a printed title.

Binding your book

A book downloaded from the Internet, which is expected to be used frequently, such as a textbook or reference book, is convenient to print.
Interesting novel, which you also want to keep on your shelf, it makes sense to print it. When going on vacation, you can not buy consumer detectives, but print several works.
It is desirable to print the novel written by you.
Printer name and some word processing skills Printing a downloaded text or your novel as a stack of paper is not difficult at all, and I will not offer anything new here.
But a stack of paper covered block letters it's not a book yet. For a stack of paper to become a book, it must be bound.
I am sure that the author who wrote the novel will want to hold a bound volume in his hands. At least for your own pleasure, in order to feel the weight of your creation.
Publishing companies now offer many options for binding, both traditional and with glue and all sorts of rings, spirals, clips, etc.
I prefer to do binding using the simplest technology using staples.
Below I will tell you how to do it using a minimum of tools and materials.
You will need: a cardboard candy box, 3 paper clips, a sharp knife, scissors, pliers, a gypsy needle, a piece of construction tape.

1) First of all, I print out all the text in A5 format on white offset paper with a density of 70 g / m 2. Such paper costs less than office weight of 80 g/m 2 , and the paper weight of the book is the same as that of a regular book.
When printing from Word, you should set the page parameters to A5, margins on the left 2.5 cm, on the right 1.5 cm. Margins at the top and bottom at the discretion of the author. Don't forget to set the "mirror margins" option and the "outside" pagination. Formatting and decoration of the text at the discretion of the author.

2) A5 paper is usually not sold and you will have to cut standard sheets. 2-3 sheets of A4 paper are folded in half and cut with a sharp knife. It is convenient to use a sharp construction knife here. When printing, you should load the paper into the printer so that the cut edge is later on the side of the binding.

2) Now you should find a single-layer and beautiful cardboard for the cover. Cardboard from various kinds of packaging boxes is well suited. For example, from chocolates or from shoes. The cardboard for such packages already has coloring and original drawings, and therefore your book will be easy to find on the shelf.

3) Cut out two covers according to the size of the printed sheets. Here it is necessary to pay attention to the following. In order for the book to open well in the future, it is necessary to foresee an inflection along the binding in advance. Therefore, try to cut the cover in such a way as to use the existing folds. cardboard box. The fold should be about 1 cm from the edge on the binding side.

4) Now we need brackets. It is convenient to make brackets from metal paper clips by bending them with pliers. You will need 3 paper clips ~ 1 cm wide and 3-5 mm taller than the thickness of your book.

5) Now the most difficult operation. Making holes in a stack of paper. Use one sheet of paper as a template and mark the position of the staple holes. The holes should be ~5mm from the edge. Now knocking down a stack of paper about 10 sheets thick, and pressing it tightly against the table, punch holes with a gypsy needle, tapping it with pliers or a hammer. Don't forget to put a thick magazine underneath so you don't damage the table. When the stack of paper and covers are punched, it remains to collect everything together, insert the paper clips and bend the ends of the paper clips.
The operation of punching holes requires accuracy and precision, otherwise distortions may occur and the edges of the book will turn out to be uneven. In principle, this is not scary and you can cut off bumps or even the entire edge using a sharp knife and a metal ruler. But this is a more complex operation, and therefore it is better to avoid it.

6) It remains to make the final touch. On the end of the book, you need to stick a strip of building or other beautiful adhesive tape. The book is ready.

I promised to describe the most affordable way without the use of special tools. But if you have a drill or a construction stapler, then you can simplify the work. An electric drill allows you to drill through an entire stack of paper with one setting. To do this, you need to take a drill with a diameter of 1.6 - 2 mm. When drilling, do not try to immediately drill through the entire thickness, otherwise the drill may get stuck tightly and the drill will tear the paper. Drill a little at a time, pulling out the drill a few times and clearing it of paper.
A construction stapler can staple a stack of paper up to 150 pages thick.


In this way, you can also sew sheets of A4 format. I had a chance to stitch a book of A4 format with a volume of 250 sheets. It turned out great. But books in A5 format are more convenient to store on a shelf.

I should note that this method of binding is also used by professionals. Only they have special machines, including those for trimming the edges. Often in small publishing companies you will be made the same binding using colored cardboard for the cover with a density of 120 -160 g / m 2, stitching the stack with a construction stapler and gluing a strip of colored paper onto the spine. Therefore, you can order a binding and not follow my advice.

The advantages of this method of binding are that it is accessible to anyone who is able to at least evenly drive nails.
I described the simplest, in my opinion, book binding technology. Of course, the proposed method also has its drawbacks. In particular, there is no discussion at all about how to hold the stack of printed sheets together and prevent them from spreading while drilling or punching holes.
When drilling, it is enough to knock down the stack and press it against the table with a ruler and holding it with one hand, with the other hand, use a drill to drill holes. If you are a man, and your hands grow from where they should, then everything will work out for you.
Otherwise, have an assistant hold the stack while you fight the drill.
When punching holes with a needle, such efforts are not necessary, but still a stack of paper strives to crawl across the table. Any attempts to press it with a volume of an encyclopedia lead to the fact that the stack is still not even.
However, a simple device for fixing the stack of paper can be provided.
Take two wooden rulers 25 or 30 cm long and tie the ends of the rulers with an elastic band from underpants. Similarly, prepare the second same ring, but do not put it on the rulers yet. You put a stack of paper between the rulers, and compresses it by putting on the second rubber ring. Now that the stack is compressed, you can either drill holes or punch holes with a needle.
If the future book is thick (more than 100 sheets), then the rulers will bend in an arc. In this case, you can suggest inserting some kind of gasket between the ends of the rulers, for example, from scraps of cardboard. Wooden rulers are stiffer than plastic ones and are therefore preferred.
When punching, act in this way. Squeezing the stack with rulers and marking the places for future holes with a pencil. Place the needle and hit it with a hammer or pliers 2-3 times in the intended places, estimating that as a result the needle has penetrated at least 10 sheets of paper. Then carefully separate the rulers on one side and remove the punched sheets, put them aside. He squeezes the stack again. Further, following the traces of the needle, it punches the next portion of the paper.
It is clear that this method is aimed at those who do not have an electric drill in the household.

Second way

After the publication of this material, a response appeared from a colleague in SI, who proposed a slightly different method of fastening sheets (see comments).
The essence of the method is that a stack of paper is pre-tightened with threads through special slots, and then everything is glued with PVA terminals. Slots are sawn with a hacksaw for metal small tooth, but rather the so-called slotted hacksaw.
For binding using this method, you will need: "harsh" threads or any other strong threads, a hacksaw, a clamp, one or two wooden planks (thick plywood), PVA glue.
The blank of the future book is squeezed between two wooden planks with the help of a clamp, or with the help of one plank and clamp it is pressed against the edge of the table (which is not a pity to scratch). At the end, on the side of the binding, grooves are cut with a hacksaw to a depth of approximately 2-4 mm. The grooves are cut not perpendicularly, but at an angle, obliquely. Then, without removing the workpiece from the clamp, threads are wound into the grooves, laying them in the grooves, and thickly smeared with PVA glue. When the glue dries a little, you can also stick a strip of colored paper on top, which will cover the disgrace of the thread binding. This is all. It remains only to wait for the glue to dry.
If, as a result of these operations, the binding has become very fluffy, then until the glue is completely dry, the binding section itself can be pulled off with a clamp. To prevent all this from sticking to the tree, you can lay a plastic film.

Add-ons

Not everyone in the household has a clamp. Often the clamp can be replaced with an antediluvian meat grinder. There was a clamp for screwing the meat grinder to the table.
I applied another way. I made a clamp from a board and a plank that can be pulled together with screws (Fig.). I took a thick planed board a little larger than the size of the book and a planed plank. I drilled two holes in the plank and drilled four holes in the board. All holes are pairwise coaxial. Now the bar and board can be pulled together with screws or self-tapping screws, squeezing a stack of paper between them. The holes in the bar are slightly larger in diameter than the diameter of the screws used, and the holes in the board are slightly smaller so that the screw is screwed in tightly.
Four holes in the board are made to expand the functionality of this clamp.
When binding, the edge of the board and planks match. However, you can screw the bar back from the edge of the board by about 2-3 cm. Then this device can be used to cut A4 paper into A5. To do this, a stack of A4 paper of 10-50 sheets is inserted under the bar. A sheet of paper folded in half is superimposed on top, which serves as a template. Everything together fits exactly under the edge of the bar, which is used as a ruler. The screws are tightened. Next, the stack is cut with a sharp construction knife (Fig.)

Similarly, you can trim the edges of your book after binding.

It is difficult to say which of the two methods is better. The first method requires less time and the book is ready immediately. The second method requires waiting for the glue to dry. On the other hand, a book with a glued cover opens up better. However, it is not known how reliable your binding will turn out. In this regard, the brackets guarantee a secure fastening.

Suggest new ideas.


In my opinion, it is convenient to print and bind the first version of the future masterpiece in order to read it, as the reader will read it. Having noticed mistakes and blunders, it is easy to unbend the paper clips, remove the unsuccessful fragment and insert a new one in its place. If you wish, you can give your book to a friend to read. After all, not everyone has the time and desire to read your works on Samizdat. Finally, you can give your volume to just a good person.

Take a piece of binding tape 5 cm longer than the height of your book. Adhesive tape can be colored or regular. It must be strong enough to securely hold the pages together. Avoid masking or clear tape. Buy linen or cotton duct tape to get the strength you need.

Lay the piece of tape on a flat surface, then attach your book cover to it. This will make it easier for you to achieve a smooth result than when you try to stick a tape on a book. Make sure that the spine of the book lies exactly in the middle of the binding tape, since its second edge will need to be wrapped on opposite side books.

  • If you have a thick enough book, leave more margin so that you have enough width of the tape to glue the spine and wrap the tape a little on the opposite side of the book.

  • Wrap the binding tape around the spine of the book. Use your fingers to wrap the binding tape around so that it sticks to the spine of the book. Next, wrap the tape all the way to the end so that it fixes the spine of the book, and its edges stick out a little on the first and last pages of the book.

    Reinforce the binding of a thick book with several layers of duct tape. If your book has many pages or consists of several blocks, you can try pasting it over with several layers of binding tape. Repeat the gluing process several times until the binding is strong enough.

    Trim the excess ends of the tape. Since you originally used longer lengths of binding tape, the ends will stick out at the top and bottom of your binding. Take scissors or a craft knife and cut off the excess tape as close to the pages of the book as possible.

    • All excess should be cut off. Don't try to wrap excess tape, as this will make your book harder to open.

    Binding with a Hole Punch and Ribbon

    Creating a saddle binding

    1. Fold the sheets in half. Rinse the fold with the edge of a ruler or fingernail. Sheets can be folded individually or in groups (depending on their number).

      Using a ruler, I will measure the height of the future book. If you initially know the dimensions of the sheets, then there is no need to measure them. Otherwise, or when using non-standard paper, take accurate measurements.

      Divide the measure by six. This binding method will require you to make five holes along the fold line of the sheets to be bound. They should be at the same distance from each other, but this distance will depend on the size of the paper itself.

      • For example, if you used standard A4 printer paper, the height of the book would be 21 cm, and if you divide it by six, you get 3.5 cm.

    2. Mark with a pencil five points along the fold line of the sheets. Do it with inside fold. Use a ruler to make sure everything is accurate. The first point should be at the bottom of the fold, and the fifth at the top.

      • For example, if you are working with A4 paper, the first dot will be 3.5 cm from the bottom edge of the fold. Each subsequent point should also be located 3.5 cm from the previous one. The fifth point will then be 3.5 cm from the top edge of the fold.

    3. Make holes with an awl at the marked points. An awl is a special tool that creates small holes in various materials, ranging from paper to leather and wood. Make sure the awl you are using is designed for paper. If you don't have an awl, you can use a large needle.

      Pass the needle and thread through the third hole from the inside of the fold to the outside. First, pull out only about 5 cm of thread behind the needle. Hold the rest of the thread with your other hand so as not to accidentally miss it.

      • Threads can be of any color, just remember that they will remain visible!

    4. Pass the needle and thread through the fourth hole. Now the needle and thread will again be on the inside of the fold. Release the non-working end of the thread and pull it out by the needle as required.

      Pass the needle and thread through the fifth hole and back through the fourth. The thread should come out of the fifth hole and loop back to the fourth hole, once again being inside the fold.

    • Some time ago, I wanted to read The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams. I tried to read several translations and none of them suited me. Therefore, it was decided - to read in English! It is quite difficult to find these books in the original in our bookstores. And if there is, then only the first part of the cycle. IN in electronic format a little easier to find. But I prefer to read from paper (I will definitely buy an E-ink reader - I really like it), so I print books.

    The first two books looked like this:

    I read them with great pleasure, but they did not look very good. And I decided that Life, the Universe, and Everything"needs to be done in a book.

    Process with pictures and comments under the cut. Beware, there are a lot of pictures.

    Seal

    It would seem, what could be easier than printing a book? But there are several important points here.
    First, you need to choose the right paper. All paper, which is produced industrially at the pulp and paper mill, has a clearly defined direction of the fibers. The absolute majority of readers have access only to printers that can print on sheets no larger than A4 format. Almost all paper of this size (I have tried about 20 brands) has grain direction along the long side (short-to-short-side bends much worse than long-to-long). Try it for yourself and you will immediately understand what we are talking about. We ideally want the fibers to be along the short side. Unfortunately, the packaging of ordinary office paper is not labeled for this parameter. Of those 20 marks, all were "inappropriate". Quoted because the result does not deteriorate much, and I believe that if you do not have the right paper, then it makes no sense to worry and print on the one that is.

    Secondly, the pages on the book sheets are not in order.

    We will make a classic book. This means that in each notebook of the book block we will have 16 A5 pages - 4 A4 sheets sealed on both sides and folded in half.

    We start by creating a layout. I used OpenOffice Writer (hereinafter - OOW). We select the desired typeface and font size, set the margins, number the pages. I draw your attention to the fact that the font size should be larger than desired. A little later it will become clear why. Save and export to PDF.

    OOW cannot print pages in random order. That is, if you set page numbers 16 and 1, then it will print the first page first, and then the sixteenth. But Foxit Reader, which I use to view and work with PDF, does everything as it should. In the printer settings, select the landscape orientation of the sheet, and in the FoxitReader print settings - two pages on one sheet. This is where the increased font size comes in handy, because the actual page size will decrease.

    Every two lines indicate the order in which the pages of one notebook will be printed. First we print one side (8 pages), then turn the paper over and print the second side.
    You can borrow a calculator from me.

    Printing more than one notebook at a time can be risky. First you need to understand the features of the paper feed of a particular printer. Yes, and then we will work with notebooks. So printing one notebook at a time is our choice.

    Assembling the book block

    Here's what we got:

    In my case, this is 8 notebooks.

    There are many ways to make binding and stitching a book block, I will talk about those that I use myself.

    Let's get started.

    First you need to bend the notebooks in half. This is where sheets with the correct direction of the fibers would be especially useful to us. You can bend each sheet individually, or you can bend the entire notebook (4 sheets). I prefer the second option. It seems to me that this way the notebook turns out to be more solid. The spoon in the previous photo is not left over from lunch - it is very convenient for her to press the fold line.

    The next step is desirable but not required. It would be nice to clamp the bent edge of all notebooks in a special press. But without fanaticism, otherwise there is a risk of crumpling notebooks.

    While the notebooks are under pressure, we need to mark out the template for punching holes. We take a piece of cardboard. We designate the edges (210 mm - according to the sheet format). For sewing the book block, we will use a tape 5 mm wide. In order for the book block to be very strong, we will sew it on three ribbons. We take the distance between the holes for the tapes 6-7 mm. And along the hole at a distance of 10 mm from the edge. Everything is clearly visible in the picture.

    We mark the fold of each notebook.

    We pierce holes from the inside with an awl. Here's what we get outside.

    We take pieces of tape and glue them at the right distance from each other with tape. Glue to the very edge of the table. That's the most convenient way.

    With which notebook (from the first or last) to start - it does not matter. The main thing is not to confuse their order. Page numbers should be carefully monitored. Otherwise it will have to be redone. I want to immediately draw your attention to the fact that until the very moment of gluing the book block, we can change everything we want.
    Here you can take a break, relax a little. Because sewing the block is a very important part of assembling the book.

    We sew! For sewing, I use embroidery thread. They are strong, docile, colorful, thick enough and very easy to find. Have you ever seen a book sewn with lilac thread? I didn't see either. That's why we take the bright one. Individuality is one of the reasons to do all this.

    The use of cargo is highly desirable. Notebooks will not move one relative to the other.
    Ribbons are sheathed on the outside.

    So we almost sewed two notebooks. We fix the thread with an ordinary double knot.

    From the third to last notebook we fix the thread in this way.

    We fix the last notebook with a knot again.

    Our book block is almost ready!

    We use either a clamp like mine, or a regular heavy weight on top.
    We fix the block so that the edge protrudes a little. We coat with PVA glue (clerical is quite suitable). Glue is needed quite a bit, just enough so that it penetrates a little between the notebooks. And we clamp it under the load so that the notebooks stick together. You don't need to pull hard.

    Next, glue the endpapers. If we used ordinary office paper for printing, then for endpapers we need to use thick paper, from 130 g/m2. The endpapers will unite the binding and the book block into one whole.

    It is important that everything is completely dry. While it dries, we need to get ready to trim the block.

    An old plastic folder, a piece of laminate, a clamp and a knife. If you have the same knife, be sure to change the blade to a fresh one. The knife must be very sharp. No, not sharp, but ACUTE. We clamp the completely dried block as shown in the photo. We press with all our weight on the edge of the laminate, where the knife lies. Trim the edge with a sharp motion. 3-4 sheets per pass. You can’t relax, otherwise the block will “leave”. It may not work out right the first time. And, I'm afraid that it will be difficult to do without such a design. Can't hold a simple line. If you have friends in the printing house, you can ask them to cut on the guillotine.

    Here is such a beauty.

    The next step is to complete the assembly of the book block. First, glue a layer of gauze on the end. It is also good to use filter paper. The goal is to reinforce the butt so that the book lasts a long time.

    To protect the corners of the book block, you need to stick captals on them. These are pieces of tape in which one edge is thicker than the other. You can stick a little more than you need. Then we'll cut it.

    We leave everything to dry.

    Making binding

    For binding, we need two cardboard boxes. In size, they should be a few millimeters larger on each side than the cut book block. Binding cardboard can be bought in art stores (there, however, it is sold out quickly) or you can disassemble the archive folder. I did so. Strictly speaking, I have these cardboard boxes from one of the previous bindings.

    This time I decided to make binding with fabric. For the first time, you can (and should) take a piece of old wallpaper. It will be beautiful and everything will stick perfectly. If you decide to take the fabric, do not forget to iron it.

    Between the thick cartons lies a strip of thin cardboard. This will be the end of the book. The distance between them is 4–5 mm. For reliability, we glue the middle of the structure with filter paper. The fabric is marked. The cardboard is glued to the fabric.

    Next, wrap and glue the edges. Everything should dry well. Don't neglect the press.

    The binding is ready!

    Putting together a book

    Oddly enough, this is one of the easiest steps.
    We try on the book block and binding to each other. We mark the best position.
    Between the folds of the flyleaf we insert sheets of clean paper so that the glue does not spread. We glue the endpaper and cover with glue. We use a brush so that there are no dry spots.

    We perform the same operation on the other side.

    We put the book under the load.

    After a couple of hours, take it out and let it dry completely.
    Our book is ready.

    We read, have fun and remember the main rule "Don" t panic!

    Mai ashipki

    Or what could have been done differently to make the result better.
    I took too light and loose fabric. Darker and denser would be more elegant.
    The flyleaf turned out in folds.

    I poured too much glue. And the paper for the flyleaf was not thick enough. Ideally, only traces of the tapes on which the block was sewn would be visible.
    The first pages from the outer edges are a little rippling. It's because of a large number glue and due to the direction of the fibers.

    Conclusion

    Of course, it would be easier to just type and read. Or read from the screen. But I just love the process of creating a book. You can choose the font, paper, binding design, and not use what the publisher will offer. It turns out a unique book. This, from my point of view, is one big plus.

    The disadvantages include sufficient labor intensity. One book took me almost a whole day.

    And I apologize for the uneven photo quality. The lighting changed a lot during the day.