How to plant cucumbers in manure. How to plant cucumbers correctly? Planting cucumbers in open ground

Cucumbers originate from the tropical regions of India. They are thermophilic and moisture-loving, require very fertile soil. The best temperature for the growth of cucumbers is +22 - +28 ° C. At +15 - +20 ° C, growth slows down, and below +15 ° C it almost stops. A cold snap below + 10 ° C for more than two days leads to the disease of cucumbers, rotting of their roots and death even in the absence of frost.

Cucumbers need sunlight, however, unlike most cucurbits and nightshades, they will not greatly reduce the yield if the site is shaded for 2-4 hours daily. The roots of cucumbers do not tolerate cold at all and watering with cold water, therefore, planting is best done on an elevated bed so that the earth warms up well on all sides. To heat the roots, heat is also used, which is released during the decomposition of fresh manure or plant residues.

Despite moisture love, cucumbers do not like stagnant water which causes root rot. Therefore, the soil in the cucumber bed should be very light and moisture-permeable, contain a lot of humus and sand; admixture of clay and other types of heavy soils are undesirable. . These are herbaceous vines 2-3 m long. The roots of cucumbers are weak, they do not penetrate deep into the soil, they do not like damage and disturbance, unlike the roots of tomatoes. Therefore, it is undesirable to loosen the earth in cucumber ridges, and so that after watering a crust does not form, it is necessary to mulch with humus. Loosening is carried out only after large waterings and very carefully.

A few words about placing cucumbers vertically . Plants grow up to 3 m during the summer. They can be grown on a high trellis (1.5-2 m) on a low trellis (less than 1 m), or simply creeping along the ground. Which way is better? Here the answer is unequivocal: on a high trellis. First, it provides significant space savings. Secondly, pathogens of cucumber diseases are always found in the ground, leading to their rapid death, and lying lashes will quickly become infected. On the contrary, when the lashes are tied vertically, they are well ventilated, better illuminated by the sun, which significantly improves the growth conditions of cucumbers and reduces their incidence.

arrange high trellis easy for cucumbers. You can drive two high (not lower than 1.5 m) sticks along the edge of the bed, attach a bar on top of them - a long pole or pipe. Growing lashes of cucumbers are regularly (once every one to two weeks) tied with long soft ropes or ribbons of fabric to the upper bar (a hard rope will grind tender lashes, so it is better not to use it for this purpose).

Before proceeding to the description of specific methods of growing cucumbers, a few words about them mass diseases.

In the middle or end of July on the leaves of cucumbers in the open field yellow spots appear, which increase rapidly, the leaves begin to dry out quickly, the fruits become small, hard and crooked. Most of the diseased plants die completely by the beginning of August. There is a lot of talk among amateur gardeners about the cause of the death of cucumbers - acid rain, cold dew, radioactive dust, etc. Experts know that this disease is provoked by microorganisms and is called downy mildew, or peronosporosis. To combat it, many means are used - Bordeaux liquid, potassium permanganate, infusions of fermented herbs, penicillin solutions, but all of them do not guarantee, however, the survival of cucumbers.

A truly reliable way to harvest cucumbers in the open field is the use of relatively resistant to downy mildew varieties. These are Far Eastern varieties (Mig, Cascade) and selected varieties of other origin, such as Konkurent. The vast majority of European domestic and foreign varieties, instead of a good harvest, bring a lot of trouble to the gardener.

Finally, a few words about how to get cucumber seeds. Do not forget that for food we pick completely unripe fruits, and for their full ripening, a lot of time must pass. Therefore, for seeds it is necessary to leave the very first fruits.

As for the Cascade variety, only those plants that have the so-called female type should be taken for seed purposes, that is, they have about five nodes that have male flowers, and the rest are female. Seed fruits are left no lower than the axil of the fourth or fifth leaf. The selected cucumber first turns yellow, then its surface coarsens and becomes covered with cracks, like the surface of a melon. In this form, the fruit should hang until the fall, when the bush will need to be removed. Small frosts, unlike green cucumbers, are not terrible for the testicles. After the first frost and the death of the plant, remove the fruit and place it on a window or closet. There he still ripen 10-20 days. As soon as the fruit becomes slightly soft (the unripe fruit is very hard), cut it, remove the seeds and, together with the pulp, leave for two days in some kind of bowl at room temperature. If mold appears on top, it's not a problem. Then thoroughly rinse the seeds from the remnants of the pulp, dry, and the product is ready for storage. However, do not allow the fruit to overripe during maturation (it will be very soft), this can cause the seeds to germinate right inside the cucumber.

An interesting observation: if the cucumber on the cut has four lobes, then its seeds will give plants with predominantly female flowers, but if the fruit is three-lobed, then male flowers will predominate.

Cultivation of cucumbers by "lazy" gardeners.

First of all choose the cultivation method that suits you- sowing seeds directly into open ground, sowing under a temporary film shelter or planting pre-grown seedlings in the ground.

cucumber seedling(like all pumpkins) is very tender and takes root very poorly after planting, and even if the root ball of the earth is not disturbed at all, the plant will only acclimatize for 10 days, get used to the new place, and then its growth will begin. In addition, seedlings at home are often stretched so much that the first cotyledon leaves are 5-10 cm above the ground, and the plant ceases to stand on its feet. This is due to the fact that seedlings require direct sunlight (which our windows often lack) and lower temperatures at night. Finally, growing seedlings is not at all a prerequisite for obtaining good yields of cucumbers. Therefore, a "lazy" gardener should not mess with cucumber seedlings, and we will not dwell on this method in detail.

Sowing seeds directly into open ground. This method is the most hassle-free, but you won’t get a large harvest in this way, and in a cold and damp summer until autumn you will have time to remove only a few cucumbers from 1 m. If such a risk triples you, get down to business.

Let's start with seeds. Dozens of ways of their pre-sowing treatment are described - soaking in solutions of microelements, fertilizers, potassium permanganate, pesticides; warming dry and soaked seeds; bar-bottling them with air and in water, etc. However, good varietal seeds can not be processed in any way; with proper care, normal plants will grow from them anyway. The only condition is that it is undesirable to use the seeds of the previous year's crop, and if there are no other seeds, then it would be good to "age" the available ones.

Before sowing seeds are best soaked for a day in a warm place or for two days at room temperature (you can just in a wet cloth). During soaking, the seeds will peck; in this way, firstly, you will be able to sow seeds that have germination capacity in the ground, and secondly, you will significantly accelerate the emergence of seedlings - the earth during sowing cucumbers has a temperature much lower than room temperature, and germination will go much slower in it.

When to sow? The time must be chosen so as to sow early and not fall under frost. In warm weather, seedlings appear after 5-6 days; at cold weather- only on the 12-14th day. Tentative dates sowing - last days May - early June.

How to prepare a garden bed? The main thing (even for the "lazy") is to "fill" the bed with good humus or rotted manure - at least two buckets per 1 sq. m and wood ash of at least 0.5 kg per 1 m. Whatever the good soil in your area, without the introduction of ash and humus, there will be no good harvest of cucumbers. When digging up a bed, shape it so that it rises above the soil by at least half a bayonet of a shovel - just as in the case of nightshade plants. To sow cucumbers in two rows, it is convenient to make the width of the beds 70-80 cm.

Growth of cucumbers can be accelerated, increase the yield, if you arrange a bed on top of fresh manure - it will "burn" and warm the roots of the plants. However, this method requires noticeable additional effort and time, so we will consider it in the section on intensive methods of growing cucumbers. Do not forget that cucumbers need sunlight, and the bed should be in the shade for no more than 4 hours.

How to sow? Before sowing (!) Be sure to water the garden bed with water warmed in the sun - just before, and not after - otherwise you can wash the ground from under the seeds. If this operation is done after sowing, then there is a risk of washing the ground from under the seeds. Then make two grooves along the entire bed with a depth of 3-4 cm at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Place the seeds in the grooves carefully at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Do not sow more often - almost all seeds will sprout - after all, they have already germinated; it will be a pity to thin out, and when thickened, the tendency to disease increases and the yield will fall. Place the seeds upside down or flat.

After sowing absolutely necessary mulch the entire garden bed, or at least the rows of sowing with loose humus, peat or sawdust. If this is not done, the soil will dry quickly and in the absence of rain, the bed will have to be watered every other day, which, in addition, can wash the seeds. The mulching rate is small - about half a bucket of humus per 1 sq. m.

What to do with seedlings? First, do not dry - in the absence of rain, watering is necessary at least twice a week. Secondly, if the seedlings are elongated (that is, the first, cotyledonous, leaves do not come out directly from the ground, but are on a long stalk), - most often this happens - it is necessary to cover the stalks to the level of the cotyledons with humus in half with sand. Otherwise, the plants will be weak and die quickly, while the buried plants will grow additional roots from the buried stalk, which will fix the bush in the ground and enhance its growth.

Our cucumbers do not need any more care. They do not have to be pinched, fertilized, sprayed, loosened, etc. However, this will not significantly increase the yield. Moreover, remember that cucumbers are capable of accumulating large amounts of nitrates, so any fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (including organic - mullein) of plants that already have ovaries can lead to excessive accumulation of harmful substances in fruits. The only concern in the summer is to tie the growing lashes to the trellis in time and water them with warm water.

What will be the result? Of course, everyone has their own. But in general, the harvest when growing cucumbers by sowing directly into open ground is unlikely to exceed 2-4 kg per 1 m. The fruits grow only by the beginning of August, by the time of fruiting, the plants will still be quite weak (compared to those grown in greenhouses or under temporary cover). They would have entered the very strength by the beginning of September, but unsuitable conditions - cold, or even frost, would not allow them to develop in full force.

That's briefly all that can be said about the easiest way to grow cucumbers for those who have limited options for caring for them. We add, in fairness, that the cultivation of this crop under a temporary film cover in the spring - at the beginning of summer will not add much trouble, but the harvest will allow you to get many times more.

Cultivation of cucumbers under a temporary film shelter.

The essence of the method is to extend the vegetation period of plants by shifting the sowing dates to the first half of May. Thus, we will get the first fruits a month earlier than when sowing directly into the ground, while the yield will increase several times, since the main stage of fruiting cucumbers will occur already at the very warm time- in July - early August, when plants and fruits grow "by leaps and bounds". By the second half of August, when cooling is possible and the growth of cucumbers slows down, the plants become so powerful that even with slow growth, you can regularly pick a lot of fruits - after all, there are a lot of ovaries on a powerful bush!

Naturally, all these advantages will be fully manifested if cucumbers do not get sick and die in the second half of summer. Therefore, under a temporary film shelter, it is most reasonable to grow varieties resistant to downy mildew. Let us also recall that available means, acting against this disease, certainly not.

A bed for cucumbers under temporary shelter is basically prepared in the same way as for sowing in unprotected soil. The only difference is that the bed should be ready by the beginning of May. Between May 3-12, choose a sunny day, place arcs over the bed and stretch plastic or other light-transmitting film over them. The height of the greenhouse can be different, but it is more convenient - about 50 cm (slightly higher than knee-deep). Press the film along the edges with boards, bricks, etc. Soak the seeds the same day. In a day - two seeds will peck, and the earth under the film will warm up. Then sow, regardless of the weather. Remove the film from the bed and do everything in the same way as when sowing in open ground. Then stretch the film again. To make the greenhouse more resistant to strong winds, frequent in May, dig the film on the sides with earth. Make sure that the film is well stretched and does not "rinse" in the wind - this is a condition for maintaining heat under it.

In 6-9 days after sowing, friendly shoots will appear under the film. Try to keep them. Cucumbers under the film in the spring are threatened by two misfortunes - frost and heat. Let's start with the cold. Seedlings appear depending on the timing of sowing and the weather. At this time, severe frosts are possible on the soil, and a drop in air temperature to -3°C is not excluded. A good film without holes, dug from the sides with earth and carefully pressed down from the ends with a load, will protect the seedlings if they are not too close (up to 10 cm) to the film. Make sure that there are no gaps between the edges of the film and the ground through which cold air could enter.

Now about the heat. In May, real heat is also possible - sunny weather with a temperature in the shade above + 20 ° C. Under the film on such a day, the air will heat up to + 35 - + 38 ° C, which can lead to the death of seedlings from overheating. To protect young plants from this disaster, slightly open the film from one or both ends in the morning on a sunny and warm day for ventilation. If you expect several hot days in a row, the film can not be lowered at night. However, this method is inconvenient in two respects. Firstly, not everyone can run to the garden plot every day (or even every other day), not to mention the fact that you can simply "miss" the weather forecast. Secondly, if the film from the ends of the greenhouse is open, then the earth dries quickly, which also does not bode well.

What to do? The advice will seem unusual - to use an old film for shelter - without holes, but not very transparent and clean either. This film will protect the crops from the cold to the same extent as a new one, but at the same time, a less transparent film will let in less sunlight, and the air in the greenhouse will not overheat.

If you are not a completely "lazy" gardener, then a bed for growing cucumbers under temporary shelter can be arranged so that the roots of the plants are heated from below. To do this, you can use fresh manure that can "burn". A bed can be arranged at the top of a dunghill. In order for the "burning" process to be sufficiently effective and the heat inside the bed to accumulate, a manure layer of at least 30 cm is required. nitrates in fruits.

Instead of manure, plant residues can be used, for which either a year before sowing at the site of the proposed bed, form a compost heap, which will “burn” the most intense next year, or dig a trench approximately as deep as a shovel bayonet, fill it tightly to the top with dry leaves in spring , pour over with heated (preferably hot) water and immediately cover it with a layer of fertile soil on top (also about the height of the shovel bayonet). In summer, the leaves will rot and warm the roots of cucumbers with the released heat.

In all these cases, with additional heating, cucumbers will begin to bear fruit earlier, the harvest will be larger. In addition, sowing on heated beds can be carried out early, at the end of April, since the ground under the film is already heated from below by this time, which will protect the greenhouse from frost.

A little about intensive methods of growing cucumbers.

Calibrated in 5% salt solution (or simply selected according to appearance full seeds), rinse from salt, pickle for 10-15 minutes in potassium permanganate (1 g per 50 ml of water). Then soak them either in a solution of micronutrient fertilizers (for 12 hours), or in an infusion of ash (1 tablespoon of ash per 1 liter, leave for a day, strain, soak the seeds for 4-6 hours), or in a solution of baking soda (5 g per 1 l of water). Seed hardening can be carried out in the same way as it was recommended for tomatoes (hold the tortured seeds for 12 hours in the cold, then 12 hours in heat for five days).

As to whether to sow unsprouted or germinated seeds, there are different opinions. If sowing is done early and in cold ground, then it is better to use unsprouted seeds. If you prefer sowing at home for seedlings or in the ground under a film, on warmed ground, then give preference to seeds that have hatched, since this will reduce the germination time with a possible low germination of seeds.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers- a troublesome and, to tell the truth, inexpedient. Seedlings are very strongly stretched, especially the hypocotyl knee, and then they do not take root well in the ground. Cucumbers sown later directly into the ground usually catch up and even overtake seedlings. However, we should not forget that cucumbers are very thermophilic. For their germination, a temperature of at least +10 - +12 ° С is required, the optimum temperature is +16 - +18 ° С. For good plant growth, the temperature should be +22 - +25 ° С during the day, +18 - +20 ° С at night. Plants they do not tolerate temperature drops below +10 ° C, especially during the formation of flowers, after the first true leaf. Cucumbers need moist soil and moist air. Intensive technologies using greenhouses and greenhouses allow us to create optimal conditions for our crops.

Agricultural practices.

If cucumbers are planted in the spring in the ground under the film, then the latter, as the threat of frost decreases, is removed, and in the fall it is set again for the night - cucumbers in this case are able to bear fruit until frost.

The land under the cucumbers must be very fertile; it would be nice to use fresh soil from the forest. Be sure to add humus, ash. The above described how to prepare a trench for cucumbers. Let's add one more recommendation to this: in the early spring, boil a bucket of potatoes in their skins (you can sprouted potatoes, unsuitable for food), mash it, put it in a trench, pour hot water, close the trench with earth. From the decomposition of the potato mass, the earth will warm up. This technique can be used if there is no fresh manure.

An experienced gardener from Novosibirsk A.A. Zubov uses this way to get a warm bed: during the whole season, he puts waste in a compost box measuring 1x1 m, 70 cm high. Early in spring, he pierces the mass in several places, pours it with hot water, covers it with earth with humus with a layer about 30 cm thick, closes the box with a film. The earth quickly warms up, and on this "bed" he sows cucumber seeds, for example, Zozulya. After the seeds quickly sprout on the nutritious warmed soil, the film must be raised to the arcs. When the threat of frost has passed, the film is removed. On such a "bed" A.A. Zubov received all 76 kg of cucumbers!

In the soil, plants are placed either in holes (two plants each, the distance between holes is 40 cm), or in rows (at a distance between plants of 15 cm, between rows is 60 cm). It is very important not to thicken the crops. The grown plants are tied up on trellises.

A crucial moment in the development of cucumbers is the formation of a bush. In hybrids, female flowers are formed on the main stem, in ordinary varieties - on lateral shoots. Therefore, the varieties are pinched above the fifth or sixth leaf, which leads to the active growth of side shoots. For hybrids, this procedure is useless, if not harmful. Hybrid bushes are formed as follows: buds must be completely plucked out of the axils of two or three leaves, growth should be limited in subsequent lateral shoots. To do this, pinch the bottom ones after the first sheet, following after the second, etc. When the main stem grows to the top (the bar is placed at a height of about 2 m), it must be thrown over the top crossbar and allowed to grow down. When the stem drops to 30 cm from the ground, pinch the top. In no case should a "roof" be allowed to form, i.e. weaving shoots at the top, as shading the plants will lead to a sharp drop in yield. Twist the growing shoots around the vertical supports clockwise.

Cucumbers are very demanding on soil and air moisture. When grown outdoors in hot weather, a refreshing watering can be given in the morning or evening. But once a week, good watering is needed with soil moistening by 10-15 cm, which requires 1-1.5 buckets per 1 m2. The next day, very carefully loosen the ground, but it is better to mulch it with humus.

Top dressing. To obtain high yields of cucumbers, regular organomineral top dressing is recommended. The first is carried out after the engraftment of plants, 5-6 days after planting: dilute bird droppings with water in a ratio of G. 15 or 1:10 and add 5 g of magnesium sulfate per bucket; leave the prepared solution in the greenhouse for 3-5 days. During this time, he will ferment, release carbon dioxide, which is so necessary for cucumber plants. In the future, top dressing is carried out after 15 days, alternating organomineral with mineral (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium complex) and with microelements. The consumption rate is approximately 1 liter per plant.

Cucumber plants are very responsive to air feeding with carbon dioxide - growth is accelerated and the taste of fruits improves. For this purpose, you can put a bucket or a barrel with infusion of mullein or bird droppings in the greenhouse, stirring and renewing it from time to time. You can also dig a groove along the edge of the greenhouse and fill it with manure and water.

Note that cucumbers do not tolerate chlorine well, so it is better to use potassium-magnesium concentrate as potassium salt or, better, double the amount of ash compared to potassium chloride. The earth or plants are sprinkled with ash, the next day the ash must be washed off. For foliar top dressing, it is recommended to use a filtered infusion of ash (preparation was indicated above) or a solution of one tablet of micronutrient fertilizers per bucket of water. Foliar top dressing should be carried out in the phase of 6-7 leaves.

There are recommendations for sowing cucumbers in mixed beds, for example, it is good to sow dill along with cucumbers: both the land is used better and there is a pest-repellent effect. Sometimes cabbage, tomatoes, corn and even a sunflower (in the middle of the garden) are planted between cucumbers, and its stems can be used instead of a trellis. Of course, at the same time, the sowing of cucumbers should be less frequent. Sunflowers, however, "pump out" a lot of moisture from the soil, so the benefits of such sowing are not entirely clear, but it all depends, apparently, on specific conditions.

Disease control. Regarding peronosporosis has already been mentioned above. There are other diseases of cucumbers, for the prevention of which it is recommended to spray the plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.4% copper oxychloride or 0.4% polycarbide. After treatment with Bordeaux liquid, the fruits can be consumed after 5 days, after oxychloride and polycarbacide after 20 days. During fruiting, plants can be treated with infusion of garlic.

There is some experience of spraying with a solution of penicillin (sodium salt), one bottle per bucket of water. However, one gardener had a good effect, the other did not.

A good result is given by watering with an infusion of herbs to reduce the unpleasant odor of which you can add an infusion of leaves or valerian roots.

Pollination of cucumbers. Pollination of cucumber plants in greenhouses can be done independently. Pick a male flower, remove the petals from it and touch its core to the female flowers. Distinguishing male and female flowers is very simple: the female flower, from which the fruit seems to form, initially has a tiny resemblance of a cucumber at its base, while the male one does not. One male flower is enough to pollinate 2-5 female flowers. In this case, you can use several male flowers: more pollen will be on the female flowers. After pollination, one petal should be torn off the female flower to know that it has already been pollinated. If pollination was successful, then after 3-4 days the cucumber will begin to grow. The best time to pollinate is in the morning when the plants are dry. Pollen remains viable for only a few hours and becomes "sterile" at temperatures above +30 degrees. To attract bees, dilute 1-2 teaspoons of honey in water (0.5 l) and sprinkle cucumber leaves with this solution.

How to get cucumber seeds.

For growing cucumber seeds, it is better to use film shelters and apply artificial pollination. Several well-developed plants typical of the variety are selected, and on them, the day before blooming, male and female flowers are isolated with pieces of cotton wool in 3-5 nodes of the main stem. When the flowers open, the females are pollinated with 2-3 males taken from another plant of the same variety, and again isolated with cotton wool.

When the ovaries increase (after 3-4 days), the isolation is removed. With careful artificial pollination in one greenhouse, you can get seeds of several varieties.

Seed fruits are harvested when they acquire a typical color for the variety (dark yellow, brown) and reticulation. The collected fruits ripen for 5-6 days until softened, cut and take out the seeds with the pulp in a glass dish with a spoon. Fermentation lasts 3-4 days and is considered complete if clean seeds remain in the hand when squeezing the pulp. When washing, light seeds, pulp float up, they are removed. The washed seeds are dried and stored.

Growing cucumbers on the window.

It is better to use ready-made fertilizer mixtures. Cucumbers will grow provided that the room is sunny and the air temperature is not lower than 20 °. There are varieties that do not require pollination. Varieties and hybrids requiring pollination should be pollinated. The first harvest (with good care) can be obtained 55-65 days after sowing. After 35-40 days, the plants bloom. In order for the ovary to develop into a fruit, it must be pollinated with pollen from male flowers. The fruits will be straight and beautiful if the pollination is repeated. Yellowing and shedding of the undeveloped ovary indicate that it remained unpollinated. At the optimum temperature, green beans are ready to be harvested in 12-14 days. Up to 15 greens are obtained from one plant.

Cucumber is a very popular vegetable crop. It is eaten unripe, and the greener and more unripe the fruits, the tastier they are. It is used to prepare a variety of dishes, it contains various nutrients and has many useful properties. To achieve a good harvest, you need to know how to properly grow cucumbers.

How to plant cucumbers

Cucumbers can be planted in two ways seedling and seedless. Both methods provide a good harvest. How to plant cucumbers is a personal preference for everyone.

Seeds of vegetable crops are hybrid and varietal. They differ from each other in terms of productivity, disease resistance and other characteristics. Hybrid seeds are mainly planted in a greenhouse, as they are more demanding to care for. They need mineral nutrition in in large numbers and protected ground. Varietal seeds are less capricious, so they are planted in open ground.

So how to plant cucumbers using these two methods?

Seedless sowing method

This method consists in the fact that cucumbers are planted immediately in open ground. Growing cucumber seeds is very troublesome. They should be large and full-bodied. First, the quality of the seeds is determined. To do this, they must be treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and kept in warm water for 20 minutes.

If the seeds are of poor quality, they immediately pop up and they are easily removed. Good seeds remain, which can be planted in open ground without germinating, or they can be germinated, kept in peat or wet sawdust for two days.

Before planting, the seeds must be warmed up and soaked. Soak them 12 hours before planting. The warm-up process takes a little longer. It is needed in order for cucumbers to be resistant to various diseases which ensures the quality of the harvest. For seeds, a gauze bag is used, which is hung near the battery or in a fairly warm room. cucumbers very fond of warmth.

Seeds of cucumbers are planted in the ground to a depth of 2 centimeters. This is the optimal depth for them. When sowing, take into account the fact that cucumbers grow strongly during the growing process, so it is not recommended to sow them often. You can plant two seeds in one hole, because some seeds may not sprout. When sowing, the distance between the holes should be 8-10 centimeters, between the rows - 60 centimeters.

Growing seedlings

Planting cucumber seedlings is also considered a way to grow cucumbers. Thanks to him, the harvest is harvested a little earlier, because the seedlings are first grown at home. However, this method has its own difficulties.

Cucumbers have weak roots and during transplantation they easily damaged. That is why when using this method, you can get a bad harvest. If, nevertheless, such a method was chosen, then it should be remembered that it is desirable to grow seedlings in peat pots.

Also, jars of fermented milk products or boxes are often used to grow seedlings. If boxes are used for seedlings, this saves space, but when transplanting, the roots can be easily damaged, which worsens the survival of plants. And in jars of fermented milk products, lactic acid bacteria can remain, which cause diseases of the root system of plants. That is why peat pots are ideal for seedlings. They have porous walls, which provides the soil in which the roots are located with the necessary water-air layer.

Seedlings are planted in the ground directly in them, which will allow avoid traumatic process transplants. Cucumber roots easily grow through the bottom and walls of the pot. Such a pot is harmless and strong enough in dry and wet conditions.

When seedlings are planted together with a pot, this guarantees almost one hundred percent survival. A pot in the ground decomposes and turns into fertilizer. Seedlings that have taken root give an early and good harvest.

Before sowing seeds in pots, they are filled with moist nutrient soil. After sowing, the soil must be periodically moistened, not allowing the peat pots to dry out. If this happens, the salts in the earth will start to crystallize, and this is very dangerous for young cucumber sprouts. During the growth of seedlings, pots should be placed more freely so that the roots do not intertwine with each other.

Before planting in open ground, cucumber seedlings should have the following characteristics:

• their height must be at least 25 centimeters;
• have 5 or more leaves.

Seedlings are planted only in well-warmed soil.

Soil preparation

Cucumbers can grow in any soil that has sufficient aeration and drainage. But still, light, humus-rich soils are considered ideal for cucumbers.

It is undesirable to plant cucumbers in the soil where pumpkin crops have grown before. In such soil, accumulate disease and pests. Cucumbers need constant feeding, so the soil is regularly fertilized with nutrients.

In the fall, they begin to prepare the soil for future planting. The place is chosen warm and lit. The site is dug up to a depth of 25 centimeters, then manure and humus are introduced into it. In the next 2-3 years, it is undesirable to make organic fertilizers, and contribute only mineral.

For the beds prepare a solution of copper sulfate: one tablespoon per 10 liters of water and begin to spray them. Then they remove and burn all plant residues from the beds. Before you start digging up the beds, you need to add 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and one glass of ash per 1 square meter. After digging, the beds should be left until spring. With the onset of spring 10 days before boarding a bucket of manure, old sawdust, peat and a glass of ash are brought into the soil, and all this is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel.

Then the beds are leveled and watered with hot water. In addition, the following solution can be used for irrigation: one gram of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water or one tablespoon of liquid sodium humate per the same volume of water. After this, the beds must be covered with a clean film before planting or sowing cucumbers.

Cucumbers should be sown in such a way that they do not fall under frost. Dry seeds are sown early, and germinated seeds later, because they can rot in cool soil.

Cultivation and care

Caring for cucumbers is necessary in the following ways:

1. Regular watering.
2. Soil loosening.
3. Weeding.
4. Top dressing.

Cucumbers are fed once every 10 days. Mullein, urea or ammonium nitrate are used for top dressing. During the flowering period of cucumbers, superphosphate and potassium salt are added to such top dressing.

As soon as the cucumbers bloom, they watered with liquid fertilizer with the addition of microfertilizers. Top dressing is carried out mainly in the evening. The solution should not get on the leaves, because the sun can cause a burn. If he still got it, it is washed off with water from a watering can. After top dressing, fertile soil is poured under cucumbers, replacing loosening. The usual loosening method is not used, because the roots of cucumbers are in the top layer of the soil, and they are easily damaged. Loosen the soil only between the rows.

Pour cucumbers with warm water. It is advisable to have a barrel of water on the site, which warms up during the day and is used for irrigation. Excess moisture can provoke the formation of lashes.

In the heat, the leaves begin to wither due to lack of moisture. For such a case, a cool shower from a hose is used, best of all in the evening, when there are few bees. He moistens the soil and air, washes away dust from leaves, improves photosynthesis.

If during watering water does not penetrate the soil well, carefully puncture with a pitchfork. At the end of summer, the volume of water for irrigation should be reduced, because waterlogging can cause rotting of the lower part of the stem and roots. During intensive growth of cucumbers, watering is carried out after 3 or 4 days.

As soon as the cucumbers ripen, they begin to be harvested, and in such a way that the stalk remains. Yellow or diseased fruits should be clean up immediately, because they make the plant weaker and delay the formation of new ovaries.

Good care ensures a good harvest. Growing cucumbers is easy. By following all the above rules for planting and caring, you can be sure that the cucumber harvest will be excellent.

garden.guru

When to plant cucumbers for a good harvest

Among other vegetable crops, this green vegetable is far from uncommon. It is grown and eaten in many countries around the world. All year round, he does not leave the shelves of shops and markets.

You can grow cucumbers continuously: in summer period in open ground conditions, and in winter in heated greenhouses. This vegetable is most often consumed fresh. Also prepared from cucumbers winter preparations. Pickled and pickled cucumbers have excellent taste. The green vegetable is very popular among the population. As part of the ingredients of many salads, you can find fresh or pickled cucumbers.

When to plant cucumbers outdoors

Since this vegetable crop is quite thermophilic, the time of its cultivation in open ground falls on the summer period. planting cucumbers in middle lane you can start in late spring, when the soil warms up well. Usually it is the second half of May.

Preparatory work before planting

Cucumbers are a vegetable crop that is demanding on lighting, moisture and soil fertility. For their successful cultivation, the site intended for planting is prepared in the fall. It is dug up and fertilized. To prevent diseases of future plantings of vegetable crops, the soil is treated with copper sulphate, superphosphate and ash are added. In the spring, having harrowed such a site, you can safely sow the prepared seeds.

What cucumber seeds are suitable for sowing

Do not sow fresh seeds that were harvested last year. The best cucumber seeds are harvested a few years ago. Such seed will certainly give excellent strong seedlings that will delight you with a bountiful harvest.

How to prepare seeds for sowing

Selected seeds can be simply sown without pre-treatment in the ground. But in order to get friendly shoots, it is better to prepare them. For this purpose, heating the seeds and soaking is suitable. Before processing, the seeds are sorted out, small and damaged ones are thrown away - they are unsuitable for sowing. The seeds are heated in water at a temperature of forty degrees for two hours. Then they are soaked for several days. During this time they hatch. Small shoots appear. In this form, the seeds are sown in moist soil.

When to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse

In a stationary heated greenhouse, this heat-loving plant is grown all year round. When growing, you need good lighting and watering. After the emergence of seedlings of plants, the soil is constantly loosened and the necessary top dressing is applied. Overgrown lashes are tied up vertically. Plant care consists in constant watering, fertilizing and treatments from pests and diseases.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers

In order to speed up the harvest, you can grow seedlings in advance. It is grown in heated greenhouses or at home. Two seeds are sown in small pots. Plants easily tolerate transplantation and take root well.

How to plant seedlings

Plants are planted under film shelters at the end of April. Spring greenhouses are also great for this purpose. Seedlings grown in pots are planted without damaging the root system in moist soil. Properly planted plants do not get sick and quickly take root. When to plant cucumbers under film shelters, weather conditions will tell. If at the end of April the temperature is above zero, but there is a threat of frost on the soil, it is necessary to wait a little with planting seedlings. But you should not linger with planting, as overgrown plants do not take root well. Experienced vegetable growers can always determine exactly when to plant cucumbers.

How to choose the right plant varieties

When choosing varieties of cucumbers, you should carefully study the description attached to the seeds. In heated greenhouses, only self-pollinated varieties can be grown, and for open ground conditions, it is better to choose bee-pollinated varieties. You should also pay attention to the purpose of the selected vegetable crop. So, there are salad and pickling varieties of cucumbers.

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It is difficult to find a summer cottage where diligent amateur gardeners do not grow cucumbers. And almost everyone is sure that they know how to plant cucumbers correctly. Sometimes the advice of experienced gardeners on methods for growing cucumbers is radically opposite. Someone prefers to grow seedlings, and someone prefers to sow cucumbers directly into the ground, someone leaves the cucumbers to lie freely on the ground, and someone prefers the trellis method of growing cucumbers.

How to plant cucumbers under a trellis

1. From the prepared (fertilized and dug up) earth, a ridge 1 m wide is formed, in the middle of it a small shaft is arranged, about 15 cm high.
2. Holes are made in the shaft with an interval of 20 cm, in which seedlings of cucumbers are carefully planted.
3. A peg is driven in near each plant, to which a twine is tied to form a trellis (you can use a special trellis net made of wire or slats).
4. Twine should be tied very easily on cucumbers so that it does not interfere with the growth and development of the plant.
5. When planting cucumbers, which are pollinated by bees, the plant must be planted in one stem. It is on it that the main part of the crop will be formed. To do this, you need to stepson all the resulting growth points, without affecting the leaves and the main stem.
6. Hybrid cucumbers, in which female flowers form throughout the bush, can be started in two or three shoots. But if the plant grows uncontrollably, then the beginning of fruiting may be delayed, and the number of fruits will decrease.
7. To avoid excessive shading with a significant number of lashes, cucumbers should be planted much less frequently than when forming a plant in one lash.

OgorodSadovod.com

Proper planting of cucumbers in a greenhouse, greenhouse

In the spring, we all acutely feel the lack of vitamins and the desire to eat fresh vegetables. And cucumbers, which are in demand all year round, become the most frequent and desired vegetable on the table in spring. We also pickle and salt them with pleasure, therefore, if there is a land plot, there is a great opportunity to grow them ourselves. But in order to become the owner of an early harvest and protect the seedlings and the crop itself from spring frosts, growing cucumbers in a greenhouse is the best option. How to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse and how to achieve the highest yield results, all novice gardeners ask themselves these questions. What is needed for this?

Greenhouse preparation

It is necessary to start preparing the greenhouse in the fall.

From the very beginning, you need to remove the remnants of the previous crop and remove the top layer of soil, by about 5 cm. This is done because it is in this top layer that pathogenic residues accumulate, which will subsequently lead to diseases, and possibly to the death of seedlings. If your greenhouse is wooden, then you need to treat all wooden surfaces with copper sulfate, and the solution must be strong enough to disinfect. If the greenhouse is made of metal structures, then it is best to paint them.

Organic and mineral fertilizers, as well as lime, are applied to the soil, after which the soil is dug up. An approximate calculation of applied fertilizers per 1 m² will be as follows:

Scheme of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse.

• unripe manure (it is best to use cow manure) - 20-25 kg;
• potash and phosphate fertilizers - 30-40 g;
• fluffy lime - 200-500 g.

Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied in autumn. The best time for them is spring.

In the spring, as soon as the weather settles, the greenhouse must be covered with a film. As soon as the soil warms up in the greenhouse, it will be necessary to form beds. The height of the beds should be 20-25 cm. If the greenhouse is 2 m wide, then there will be a path in the center, and one bed to the left and right of it. Accordingly, if the greenhouse is 4 m wide, then you will have to make two paths on both sides of them. That is, there will be 4 rows in the greenhouse. One on the sides of the tracks and two in the center. It is recommended to plant seedlings at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other, as this is the most optimal distance for high-quality lighting of all plants in the greenhouse.

At a height of 2 m above each bed, it is necessary to stretch the wire along the entire row. In the future, as soon as the plants grow, they will be tied to this wire with twine.

Sowing seedlings of cucumbers for the greenhouse

It is best to grow seedlings at home, on windowsills, as it will be possible to create optimal temperature conditions in the warmth of the home. Seeds can be sown both in common containers and in separate ones. If the seeds are planted in a common container, then in the future it will be necessary to pick the seedlings, that is, transplant before the main planting. Seeds should not be compacted too deeply into the ground. 1-1.5 cm is enough. The earth must be slightly compacted from above and watered. After watering, the container with planted and watered seeds simply needs to be covered with a film so that the moisture does not evaporate. Containers with seedlings must necessarily have drainage holes and in no case should they be transparent. If the seeds were sown in a common container, then the picking of seedlings can be done 5-7 days after germination. Once the picking is done, be sure to water the plant so that it does not die by the time you need to plant cucumbers.

The first shoots usually appear 2-3 days after planting. It is these first two or three days that containers with seeds for the greenhouse must be kept at a temperature of + 25 ... + 28 ° С. After that, the film is removed and the seedlings are transferred to the brightest place, where the optimal daytime temperature for them will be + 20 ... 22 ° С. But in the first four days it is better to lower the night time to + 16 ... + 17 ° С - this will help harden the sprouts and prevent them from stretching. In the following nights the temperature can be +19…+20 °С.

http://youtu.be/mx9iaUxbZ2E

Planting, care and formation of cucumbers in the greenhouse

Cucumbers in a greenhouse should be planted in the phase when the sprout has 3-4 true leaves, but one should also not forget that cucumbers are planted in warm soil. Before transplanting, spring fertilizers, such as nitrogen, can be applied to the soil. Holes are made in the beds, which can be shed with a weak and warm solution of potassium permanganate, and then, carefully, so as not to damage the root system, cucumbers are planted in the greenhouse. They need to be watered every two days or every other day, but this depends on the drying of the soil. It is best to water in the evening with warm water. Once every 10 days, you can do nitrogen-potassium top dressing of the plant.

Cucumbers in a greenhouse are usually formed into one stem. Therefore, on day 4-5, you can tie the plant to the wire stretched over the row in advance. The grown stem of the plant will have to be constantly twisted around the twine. To stop branching and overgrowth of the plant, pinching the plant is used. The top of the head should be pinched no earlier than the stem outgrows the wire trellis by 20-30 cm. But the side shoots are pinched like this: the lower shoots are completely destroyed, since they are rarely fruitful, and if they bear fruit, then ugly vegetables. Starting from the fifth shoot, pinching will be done over the first leaf. Shoots in the middle part of the stem are pinched over the second leaf. And here is the uppermost part, at the wire, above the third sheet.

As soon as the cucumbers in the greenhouse bear fruit, the fruits will need to be harvested every day to prevent them from overripening and overloading the entire plant.

http://youtu.be/MkA0MtQOvS4

Conditions for a high yield

1. Avoid drafts in the greenhouse. It is recommended to open the greenhouse only if the temperature in it exceeds +30 °C, and only on one side.
2. The soil should not be very wet, otherwise the cucumbers in the greenhouse will die.
3. Plants should not be planted too densely.
4. Correctly form cucumbers in a greenhouse.
5. Pick fruit regularly.

In order to get a high yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse, no special and complex actions are required. The main thing is the desire, attention and care for your greenhouse.

VseoTeplicah.ru

Cucumbers are 96% water with some carbohydrates, potassium, vitamins and micronutrients. Perfectly quenches thirst, is actively in demand for weight loss, loved by adults and children. It has a very good effect on the skin of the face, as it contains vitamins PP, B and C, they nourish and moisturize the natural beauty as much as possible.

Cucumbers grow in every home garden. It is easy to plant cucumbers correctly, the main thing is to do everything as expected, without delaying over time and not rushing things. By following these rules and simple but useful tips, you will get a ripe and juicy harvest.

How to choose cucumber seeds

There are quite a few varieties of this product. Approximately 100 varieties or more. Each crop is unique in its own way and in each country the look changes. There are long cucumbers up to 50 cm, round, oval, white, striped, bumpy and even with a reddish tint. But this is not the whole range.

For a home garden, it is better to take the “hybrid” variety of cucumbers, it is famous for its fruits, they are never few and the easiest to plant. Pay attention to the expiration date, cucumber seeds cannot be stored for more than 3 years and the crop gives only one year!

When to plant a seed

A vegetable should be planted in May, after 10 numbers, when at least + 10 * will stably stay on the thermometer. After May 22, do not plant cucumbers auspicious time for them. In June, you should land on the 12th-17th. No other days should be planted.

Land preparation for planting

We plant cucumbers in only two ways: vertically or horizontally. It should be noted that in the first variant, the landing will be carried out using special ropes for “helpers” tied up along the frame (you can do it yourself), and in the second case, with a cobweb along land plot vegetable garden. Cucumbers are very fond of the sun, do not forget to make your seedlings so that the sun falls on all parts of the foliage, it is better to make a horizontal row deeper and narrower so that each row has enough of everything. They also love warmth, if the season portends constant rains, put a greenhouse to improve the comfort and useful qualities of the vegetable.

For lovers of beauty and order in the garden, you can horizontal beds, plant flower beds.

IMPORTANT: so that the distance from each flower bed to the next is decent. It is also worth considering if you have chosen the type of seed cucumber "hybrid", therefore, it is better to plant vertically, since they are more comfortable with this type of cultivation, which brings twice as many fruits.

Preparing seeds for planting

Cucumbers germinate slowly, in order to speed up the process a little, we follow a little trick of gardeners. We need a small rag where the seeds should be poured, soaked in water and hidden in a glass jar for 2-4 days until the seeds germinate a little. This method is called germination, but it must be remembered that 3 times a day you should check the moisture of the cloth and moisten it again as needed.

If you put a jar of seeds in the sun, there will be additional heat and the germination process will go faster. Before each watering, inspect the seeds, if they become covered with mold, it is necessary to throw out those that begin to rot. As soon as half of the seeds have sprouts, you can plant cucumbers.

Fertilizer before planting

The root structure of the cucumber is quite close to the surface. And therefore, they need maximum care from the bottom of the earth. To ensure their complete comfort, they will need to: dig up the ground and dig a hole where cucumbers will grow, pour out pre-cooked chopped brushwood (if there is no brushwood, it should be replaced with coniferous spruce branches), unripe compost, peat, straw or sawdust, a thin layer of manure or humus, adding a little ash and cover everything with garden soil about 27 centimeters.

All this is useful organic "garbage", it will gradually rot and eventually begin to release heat, after which it will turn into an excellent fertilizer.

Planting seeds

Once you have decided which method is more convenient for you to plant, we proceed to seedlings. If the method is vertical, step back every 40 cm for their comfort and comfortable heat delivery. By the horizontal method, it will be available to retreat from 20 to 30 cm from other flower beds (beds).

In the cold season

As you already know, cucumbers love warmth, but in May it is still quite cold and grow more slowly because of this reason. To speed up the process, use a few useful tricks.

First way This is a greenhouse, where vegetables feel warm enough and comfortable. It is necessary to check the bundles of leaves so that the entire crop looks up and nothing is hidden (otherwise nothing will grow in this area).

Second way for economical people. It will only be necessary to cover them with ordinary synthetic material (for example, a transparent film), in addition, there will be additional heat for the crop, which will lead to a quick harvest.

Until the seeds sprout, water should be watered with settled, warm water a little in places above the planting. As soon as the first shoots appear from the ground, make sure that the ground under them is always slightly damp.

Care during growth

Caring for cucumbers is watering for regular soil moisture, after the appearance of the third leaf, fertilizer from manure diluted in half with water should be used. Periodic mineral top dressing (for example, 7 g of ammophos is sprayed per meter of land, every 10-14 days), weed removal and pest control.

Watering plants, produce 1-2 times a week depending on weather and land conditions. It must be done early in the morning before 7 o'clock or in the evening no later than 18 o'clock.

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting is carried out after the fruit ripens, young "gherkins" should not be harvested, as this is not yet a ripe vegetable. We cut cucumbers or tear them off carefully from the stalks, without damaging the main loop.

If you have not watched and overexposed the harvest, the taste will change. The cucumber will have a yellow peel and add bitterness. This species should be used in a salad, pre-cutting the peel.

Fresh cucumbers are not stored for a long time and therefore they are used in pickling for winter stocks or canning in factories for sale.

kakpravilino.com

how to plant cucumbers

Tatyana Buldakova

seedlings or seeds?
If with seeds, then it is better to germinate them in a damp cloth for 3-4 days before pecking the sprouts, and then those that have pecked into the moist ground, the rest for another day. it’s very convenient, if you go to the dacha for two days, you can immediately sow, but then I alternate those that have been pecked with those that have not been pecked.
If seedlings, then you need to remember that cucumbers have a very weak root, so I plant one seed in a disposable cup, around the beginning of April (in Ukraine they can be planted after May 15), then I just remove the cup, fill the hole with water and when it is absorbed, I put a clod of earth with a sprout and sprinkle it with earth, then I compact it.
And one more thing: I plant cucumbers so that they weave along the net, then the sun illuminates them well and does not take up much space.
If you have any questions - ask in a personal. Good luck!

)))

Cucumbers are sown mainly in a two-line tape method. It is expedient to sow short climbing varieties according to the scheme 90+50 x 10-15 cm, long climbing varieties 140+70 X 18-20 cm. Seeds of cucumbers are planted to a depth of 3-4 cm.

After the formation of 1-2 true leaves, the first thinning of seedlings is carried out. At the same time, plants are left through. 7-10 cm, with the formation of 3-4 true leaves, a second, final thinning of seedlings is carried out. During the second thinning, loosening is carried out between the rows, weeding in the rows and light hoeing of the plants. During this period, it is necessary to give the first top dressing, preferably a liquid solution of slurry or bird droppings.

Cucumbers belong to the gourd family. These are annual, dioecious, monoecious plants, on which both female and male flowers are formed. In most cases, male flowers develop on the main shoot, and female flowers develop on secondary formations. To accelerate the growth of cucumber shoots of the second order, when 5-6 true leaves are formed, the tops of the main stem are pinched, which contributes to an earlier harvest.

When growing cucumbers in open ground, a trellis culture is also used. Plants are tied to wires pulled along the frame at a distance of 20-30 cm.

Cucumbers are planted in the ground with an interval of 70-80 cm. After the formation of the third leaf, pinch the top. The strongest lateral shoot, developing from the axil of the remaining leaves, is allowed as the main shoot straight up, and the side ones - obliquely up.

As soon as the main shoot reaches the next wire, pinch its top. This is done until the shoot grows pink to the very top. Lateral shoots are pinched (after fruit set) over the second or third leaf. After 2.5-3 months, when the whips are exposed, they are lowered to the ground and sprinkled with earth.

Feeding cucumbers is a must. Top dressing is done with diluted bird droppings and slurry mixed with mineral fertilizers.

During the growing season, 2-4 loosening of row-spacings is carried out with weeding and weeding, systematic mandrel of lashes and regular watering small norms more often than other vegetable crops.

The fruits of cucumbers should be harvested after 2-3 days, preventing the overripe greens.

SPROL

I plant it soak the seeds at home after hatching, I plant a pre-prepared ridge on the garden bed, I prepare it so I dig it up, I cover it with a film for 2 days so that the earth warms up after planting, water it and cover it back and not open it, watch when the cotyledon leaves appear, then open for the day at night close.

MARTIK

it all depends on where you live. In the North, I soak for a day in water with Energen, then in a peat pot, in a plastic bag, shoots in two days. This year there are already 13 degrees, so I immediately bury the pots in the greenhouse - and everything grows. last year the houses in pots grew a week. once a week, water with Epin.

Kocheva Polina

Soak in gauze moistened with warm water, hatch and plant in a garden bed, preferably with manure or humus. Frequent watering with warm water and favorable weather conditions and the harvest is guaranteed.

Bagheera Fluffy

How to grow a crispy snack? Cucumber wisdom - http://shkolazhizni.ru/archive/0/n-15914/

Planting cucumbers in open ground makes it possible to grow tasty and healthy fruits. But it is important to know certain rules for planting cucumbers in order to ensure proper planting, care and harvesting.

Timing and soil preparation

Since the cucumber bush is capricious in terms of growing conditions and preparation, you need to know how to plant cucumbers correctly in order to get a strong and healthy harvest in the future, to prevent the effects of diseases and other adverse factors. It is important to observe the timing of planting cucumbers in.

Since these plants are thermophilic, it should be carried out in a greenhouse or greenhouse, always in the ground, well warmed up. If you plant cucumbers with seeds in open ground, this should be done no earlier than the first decade of June.

At this time, the earth will warm up enough, the chances that the seeds will take root increase significantly. Favorable days for landing are determined by the lunar calendar.

Before proceeding with the direct planting of plants, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory work. What is the best way to do this? In order for the cultivation to be successful, certain requirements for lighting, watering and top dressing must be observed.

To prevent any diseases, there is a rule - soil treatment with copper sulfate. Next, wood ash and superphosphate are added to the soil. And in the spring, after loosening the site again, you can start planting plants. carried out in a similar way - they also prepare the soil, prepare planting material in advance.

Seed preparation

It is another important step for the successful cultivation of a crop. Experienced vegetable growers do not recommend planting those seeds that were collected in previous seasons. It is better to use the material that was collected several years ago.

Such seeds will give good germination, in the future the harvest will be plentiful and of high quality. Planting cucumber seeds involves the proper preparation of the material. You can simply plant cucumbers in the ground with seeds, without resorting to preliminary preparation.

But in order for the seedlings to be good and healthy, it is still better to carry out certain activities to prepare the material. There is also heating. Before proceeding with the processing procedure, the grains must be sorted out, the low-quality ones should be rejected, they are not suitable for sowing.

Warm up in water heated to 40 degrees. The warm-up time is two hours. After that, the heated grains are soaked in water, let them stand for several days until they hatch. So, if cucumbers are planted in open ground, seedlings will appear much faster.

In the same way, a greenhouse cucumber is prepared for planting. By soaking, you can ensure the rapid emergence of sprouts and good growth seedlings.

Further stages of cultivation

Many inexperienced vegetable growers are interested in how to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse. Which planting option is the most successful for obtaining high-quality fruiting in the future. It is possible to grow a planted cucumber bush in a heated structure of a closed type for all year round. You just need to create certain conditions:

• Lighting.
• Watering.
• Fertilizer.
• Constant loosening of the soil.

After or seeds, you need to provide enough lighting, proper irrigation of the soil. When the first sprouts appear, it will be necessary to constantly loosen the earth and apply fertilizers. When the stems grow upward, they will need to be tied up. Periodic preventive treatments of plantings are also carried out, which prevent the development of diseases and pest damage.

In order for the crop to ripen much faster, it is recommended to pre-grow seedlings, only then plant them in an open area, based on the lunar calendar.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers is carried out in advance, in an apartment or in a well-heated greenhouse.

Seeds are sown in cups or any other container, appropriate care is taken to get healthy and strong seedlings. In the future, a careful planting of seedlings of cucumbers in open ground is carried out, carefully removing them from the cups along with a lump of soil mixture.

How to properly plant seedlings

Seeds are recommended to be sown in the third decade of April, covering with a film on top to create a greenhouse effect. So shoots will appear faster. Seedlings grown in cups or any other container are planted carefully, trying not to injure the roots during planting. The soil for planting must be pre-moistened.

If the plants are planted correctly, the cucumber planting scheme is followed, their density and density (the intervals between the bushes should be at least half a meter), the bushes will not be affected by diseases, they quickly take root in a new place.

The reference point for planting dates is climatic indicators. If the temperature indicators show a stable plus, but there are still short frosts on the ground, it is better to wait until the seedlings are planted in open ground.

During the outdoor cultivation period, no additional costs are required. It is recommended to prepare the soil for planting in advance, even in the fall. In the spring, only by loosening the soil, additional fertilizers are applied - superphosphate, wood ash.

It is also important to remember the precursors of culture. It is best to plant cucumbers after onions, cabbages, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes or peas have been harvested.

Growing with trellises

Cucumber culture is quite whimsical to growing conditions. Such plantations are easily exposed to all kinds of diseases, so you need to constantly monitor the planted seeds or seedlings, to prevent stagnant water so that rot does not develop.

To significantly increase crop productivity, experienced vegetable growers recommend growing plants using the trellis method. So the stems are vertical. Seedlings are being planted.

In the center of each bed, columns are installed, which in the future will serve as a support. Their dimensions in height should be at least two meters.

The number of supports is chosen at your discretion. Fabric strips are stretched between the columns, and even better, a special mesh is stretched, along which cucumber stalks will weave in the future. The bottom row is attached at a height of 15 centimeters from the ground, the second tier is placed at a height of 1 meter from the ground, the third tier is pulled at a height of two meters.

When grown in this way, it is possible to ensure the distribution of sunlight for each plant. In the same way, uniform irrigation of the soil and the plants themselves is ensured.

The undeniable advantage of this method of growing a crop is that hanging stems on trellises are less susceptible to various diseases, in the same way they significantly extend the ripening period of fruits, and the vegetables themselves will be of good quality.

How to grow an early crop

Since cucumbers are heat-loving, certain dates for planting seedlings must be observed. You can install small greenhouses in order to speed up the ripening process. Preparation of closed soil is carried out in advance, starting in March.

Fertilizers are poured into the greenhouse - mullein, bird droppings, rotted compost or manure. The layer of this fertilizer should be at least half a meter. A layer of fertile substrate is covered from above. Irrigate abundantly with warm water. When the temperature in the mini-greenhouse reaches 25 degrees, you can plant seedlings.

Thanks to such conditions, it is possible to ensure the harmonious growth and development of plantings. With this method of cultivation, it is recommended to use self-pollinating varieties. Landing is carried out in the middle of the structure. The number of landings is determined by the size of the greenhouse. From above, the greenhouse is covered with foil and mats for five days.

Features of care and disembarkation

Regardless of which method is chosen for cultivating crops, caring for them involves timely irrigation, loosening the soil, and top dressing. It is also important to allow air access. Land with cucumbers should be located in a lighted area, there should be no drafts.

Plants should be regularly cleared of weeds. With the systematic introduction of top dressing, the full growth and nutrition of cucumbers is ensured.

To obtain a quality crop, it is important to follow the rules of planting:

1. Prepare holes.
2. Dig a shallow furrow near each bed into which to fertilize.
3. Then sprinkle soil on top.
4. Planting bushes is carried out with an interval of 20 centimeters. So each bush will receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. The result is a long row with holes.
5. Before planting, dig holes.
6. Water is poured into all the pits, rotted chicken manure or mullein is covered. They take containers with bushes, carefully turn them over, turn them over, take out the bushes along with a clod of soil.
7. If the plants are grown in peat cups, you can not take out the bushes, plant them together with pots.

With the right approach, the harvest will be of high quality and plentiful.

Plant common cucumber, or cucumber seed (lat. Cucumis sativus), is a herbaceous annual species of the genus Cucumber of the Cucurbitaceae family, a vegetable crop widely grown throughout the world. The name of the plant comes from the Greek word agouros, which means "immature", that is, at the etymological level, the name is assigned the concept that the cucumber is eaten unripe, that is, green, as opposed to, for example, tomato, which is not eaten green. The cucumber vegetable has been cultivated for over 6,000 years. It comes from India, where it still grows wild at the foot of the Himalayas.

In the Bible, the cucumber is referred to as the "vegetable of Egypt." The ancient Greeks grew cucumbers, then the Romans, and Central Europe cucumbers spread during the time of Charlemagne. From the notes of the German ambassador to the Moscow State Herberstein, it is known that in 1528 cucumbers were already growing in Rus'.

Planting and caring for cucumbers

• Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings - in April, planting seedlings in the ground - in early or mid-May.
• Lighting: bright or semi-shaded.
• The soil: highly fertile, well-drained, low in nitrogen, neutral or slightly alkaline.
• Predecessors: the best are green manure, onions, cabbage, tomatoes. Unwanted - lagenaria and any pumpkin crops.
• Watering: the first time after transplanting seedlings into the ground - frequent, after rooting - once every 5-7 days with a consumption of 3 to 6 liters of water for each m², during the flowering period - once every 2-3 days with a double consumption of water for the same area unit.
• Top dressing: 6-8 times per season with organic and mineral fertilizers. Do not fertilize during periods of extreme cold.
• Garter: horizontal and vertical. They begin to tie the whips to the supports almost immediately after planting the cucumbers in the ground.
• Pinching: in open ground, to stimulate the growth of lateral lashes, shoots are pinched over 5-6 leaves.
• Pasynkovanie: at the stage of development of 3-4 leaves, then at the stage of development of 8 leaves, then at the stage of formation of 12 leaves.
• Reproduction: seed.
• Pests: aphids, gall nematodes, scoops, mole crickets, tobacco thrips, spider mites, sprout flies, wireworms.
• Diseases: anthracnoch, ascochitosis, verticillium, powdery mildew, downy mildew, black leg, gray mold, black mold, olive spot and ring mosaic virus.

Read more about growing cucumbers below.

Vegetable cucumber - description

The stem of the cucumber is rough, creeping, reaching two meters in length and ending with a mustache, with which the plant clings to the support. Leaves are five-lobed, heart-shaped. The fruit is emerald green, bubbly, juicy, multi-seeded, with a structure characteristic of Cucurbitaceae. The shape and size of the fruit varies depending on the variety.

Despite the fact that the cucumber is 95% water, it contains useful trace elements - iron, magnesium, phosphorus and calcium and vitamins - C, B1, B2, provitamin A. Cucumber juice is a structured liquid that perfectly removes toxins and toxins and is beneficial affecting the state of the human body. Cucumbers are a source of iodine in compounds that are easily digestible.

Growing cucumbers from seeds

Sowing seeds of cucumbers

Growing seedlings of cucumbers allows you to accelerate fruiting in the open field by 2 weeks, and also prolongs the fruiting period. Even if you know how to grow cucumber seedlings, after reading the recommendations in this article, you will be able to compare your experience and knowledge with ours, and maybe you will learn something that you did not know yet.

Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in April. Seeds of cucumbers, when properly stored, do not lose their germination for 8-10 years, but three-four-year-old seeds are considered the most productive. Seedling material for seedlings should consist of full-weight large seeds that have been warmed up for a month near heaters at a temperature of about 25 ºC. This does not apply to seeds of hybrid varieties - they do not need to be warmed up before planting.

Planting cucumbers for seedlings is also preceded by disinfection of seeds by immersing them for an hour in an infusion of 100 g of water and 30 g of garlic pulp. After disinfection, the seeds for swelling are wrapped in a damp cloth and kept at a temperature of 20 ºC for 48 hours, after which they are placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for the same period.

Seeds ready for sowing are laid out in peat or plastic cups 10-12 cm high, filled to the top with coconut substrate or soil, which must be prepared in advance: thoroughly mix 2 parts of humus, 1 part of sawdust, 2 parts of peat and add 2 to 10 liters of such soil mixture. tablespoons of wood ash and one and a half tablespoons of nitrophoska. In each cup, one hatched seed is laid out with the spout up so that during germination, the peel of the seed remains in the soil.

It is not necessary to plant the seeds deeply, it is enough to cover them with a layer of soil mixture 5-10 mm thick, after which the sowing should be moistened, covered with paper and kept at a temperature of 22-28 ºC. Seedlings will be ready for transplanting into open ground in 3-4 weeks. If you put the seeds not in plastic cups, but in peat or peat tablets with a diameter of 41-44 cm, you will not have to bother with picking, but it should be noted that cucumbers do not like this procedure.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers

Caring for cucumber seedlings involves watering, fertilizing, picking seedlings if you grow them in boxes, cassettes or plastic cups, and you will almost certainly need artificial lighting. When shoots appear, the temperature in the room is lowered to 20-22 ºC during the day and to 15-16 ºC at night, and the seedlings are provided with additional lighting with fluorescent or agro-lamps so that the seedlings do not stretch.

At the stage of formation of seedlings of two true leaves in the ground fertilize for cucumbers of this composition: dissolve 3 teaspoons of nitroammophoska in three liters of water at a temperature of 20 ºC. And a day or two before planting seedlings in the ground, they are fed with a solution of 10 g of water 15 g of urea, 10 g of potash fertilizer and 40 g of superphosphate, spending this amount of top dressing on about 2 m² of soil.

Concerning watering seedlings, then throughout the entire growing period it is carried out once a week, and the soil is shed completely, and the excess liquid must be drained - for this it is convenient to keep the containers on a pallet. If the seedlings grow quickly, and you do not intend to swoop down on them, pour some soil into their cups for stability.

picking cucumbers

Cucumbers do not like picks very much, so follow our advice and grow cucumber seedlings in peat pots or tablets, but if for some reason you decide to sow the seeds in boxes, then picks cannot be avoided, and they are carried out in the development phase of seedlings of two true leaves . Before diving cucumbers, the soil in the box is well watered, then the seedling is very carefully taken out, trying not to shake the soil from the roots, and transplanted into a separate container, immersing the root and part of the stem into a depression made in the soil along the cotyledon leaves.

After picking, the soil around the seedling is compacted in such a way that the seedling cannot be easily pulled out of the ground. When transplanting, twisted and diseased plants are rejected, however, it should be remembered that picking delays the development of seedlings for 5-7 days. If weather conditions and the level of development of seedlings allow, dive seedlings directly into open ground to a permanent place. Or dive seedlings into peat pots so that they can be transplanted into open ground when the time comes, along with the container.

A week before the seedlings are planted in the ground, they begin to accustom them to the outdoor environment, taking them out into the fresh air for several hours every day, not forgetting to protect them from wind and drafts at first. Also, before planting in the ground, it is advisable to treat the seedlings for preventive purposes with Immunocytophyte or Epin.

Growing cucumbers at home

For growing cucumbers at home, you should choose varieties that do not require pollination, and bush and medium climbing cucumbers are best located on the windowsills. Optimal for apartment conditions are varieties Domashny, Rytova, Masha, Room, Marfinsky, Bianka, and hybrids of Claudia and Marinda. If you want to get to New Year's table fresh, self-grown gherkins, you need to sow cucumber seeds at the end of October, and if you need them by March 8, sow cucumbers in January.

From the moment of emergence of seedlings to the ripening of the first cucumbers, usually 45-50 days pass.

Before sowing, cucumber seeds are processed: they are disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, after which they are washed with running water. Then the seeds are laid out in individual seedling cups with a diameter of 6-8 cm with a drainage layer in the form of coarse sand or expanded clay and a light nutrient mixture seasoned with rotted organic matter - it is best to purchase ready-made soil mixture for cucumber seedlings in the store.

The soil is poured with boiling water right in the cups, then the substrate is allowed to cool and then the seeds are laid out on the surface, covered with damp gauze and placed on the southern or eastern windowsill. They contain containers at a temperature of 17-22 ºC at night and 22-26 ºC during the day, protecting from drafts and constantly keeping the gauze moist. After a few days, when tiny sprouts appear on the seeds lying in the cups, make a hole 1 cm deep in the center of the soil surface, put the germinated seed in it and cover it with soil, and cover the cups so that moisture does not evaporate from the soil, cover with paper or film. After the emergence of seedlings, the coating is removed.

If you do not have the opportunity to illuminate the seedlings, you will have to lower the temperature in the room to 15-17 ºC during the day and 13-15 at night so that they do not stretch out. Watering seedlings is carried out as the topsoil dries up.

At the stage of development of three leaves, seedlings are carefully transplanted one at a time into larger containers - flower pots with a diameter of 25 cm or buckets, for example. The transplant is carried out on a cloudy day, after which the plants are shaded from the sun for 2-3 days. As soon as the first ovaries are found, cucumbers are fertilized: in one liter hot water 100 g of wood ash are thoroughly stirred and infused for a day, after which the soil in a pot is poured with this composition.

The lateral processes appearing on the central lash should be pinched. One plant should carry no more than two lashes that need to be tied up: the easiest way is to pull a large-mesh construction mesh over the window, for which the growing lash will cling with a mustache.

Cucumbers are watered after the topsoil dries out early in the morning or in the evening with warm water at about 27-30 ºC. It is very important to maintain a balance of moisture in the soil, since rot can develop from its excess in the roots, and from a lack of moisture, the fruits will be bitter. When cucumbers appear, do not let them outgrow, and then the next fruits will begin to form and develop faster.

Planting cucumbers in open ground

When to plant cucumbers in the ground

Planting cucumbers in the ground is carried out not earlier than the seedlings develop 3-4 true leaves, and the ground warms up to 20-24 ºC and warm weather sets in. Usually all these signs appear in mid-May. The area reserved for cucumbers should be protected from the wind, well lit by the sun, although partial shade is also acceptable. If there is a possibility of night frosts or a sharp cold snap, the cucumbers planted in the ground will have to be covered with a film, for which metal arcs are dug in throughout the garden, on which, if necessary, covering material is thrown. Also, close to the holes along the beds, a trellis is installed or a large-mesh net is dug in, along which the cucumber liana will climb up.

soil for cucumbers

The soil for cucumbers should be drained, highly fertile, low in nitrogen. Acidic soil should be limed before planting. Cucumbers grow best in a soil mixture of 6 parts of peat, to which one part of humus, sawdust and soddy soil is added, but in principle any soil is suitable for cucumbers. The main thing is that it be loose and warm, and for this you need to arrange beds 25 cm high for cucumbers, directed from east to west with a slight slope to the south. The day before planting cucumbers, the formed beds are watered with a solution of a teaspoon of copper sulfate in 10 liters of almost boiling water, spending three liters per 1 m².

The best predecessors for cucumbers are green manure, tomatoes, onions and cabbage, but plants such as pumpkin, watermelon, melon, zucchini, zucchini, lagenaria and other Pumpkin as precursors for cucumbers are undesirable.

How to plant cucumbers in open ground

How to plant seedlings of cucumbers and is it necessary to fertilize the soil on the site before that? Since the root system of cucumbers is unbranched, fertilizers are applied directly at the time of planting: holes are made in the beds 40 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from each other, a layer of soil mixed with compost or humus is poured into them, then a layer of fertile soil is added without fertilizer, they are transferred seedlings with an earthen clod are placed on it or a peat pot with seedlings is placed in the hole, the hole is covered with soil and watered at the rate of 3 liters of water per plant.

In the future, the site with cucumbers can be mulched with peat or grass, which will attract earthworms to the site, supplying the soil with humus, or you can cover the aisles with black ground cover to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the site and slightly increase the temperature of the soil.

Growing in a greenhouse

To grow early cucumbers in the greenhouse, hybrid varieties for greenhouses are used, such as Ant, Marinda, Twiksi, Halli, Murashko, Bidretta and Buyan. In order to get a crop of cucumbers as early as possible, manure beds are arranged in the greenhouse, which are called hot, or compost beds are warm.

If you have fresh cow dung, put it in a high bed in a greenhouse, and cover with a layer of fertile soil at least 25 cm thick on top and water abundantly, then spread the cucumber seeds at the rate of 4 plants per m². Seeds of hybrid varieties do not need pre-sowing treatment. Close up the seeds of cucumbers by 1-2 cm, after which supporting arcs are installed on the bed, on which light covering material is laid.

Thanks to manure that warms the soil, the first shoots appear after 3-4 days. During the day, you need to briefly raise the shelter to ventilate the seedlings. Keep an eye on the temperature of the soil and air in the greenhouse - it can change dramatically and unexpectedly with the weather. Optimum temperature for the development of seedlings in a greenhouse 18-30 ºC. If the temperature rises higher, the cucumbers will simply burn. In addition to the bottom heating of the beds, seedlings may need additional lighting.

If you do not have manure, instead of a hot bed, you can make a warm bed according to the same principle, only in this case garden compost is placed under the soil layer instead of manure. Since the soil temperature will not be so high, planting cucumbers in the greenhouse is carried out with already sprouted seeds, right in peat cups or tablets. In cold regions, it is better to arrange manure beds, and in warmer areas, compost beds will be enough. Further care for cucumbers in the greenhouse is carried out in the same way as for plants in the open field.

Cucumber care

How to grow cucumbers

The first time after planting in the ground, cucumber seedlings need frequent watering and shading from sunlight, and in case of a sharp cold snap, they will need shelter - when the temperature drops to 15 ºC, cucumbers slow down growth, and at 10 ºC, development stops altogether. After watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil in the area while hilling the bushes, but this must be done carefully, since the root system of cucumbers is located in the upper soil layer. Mulch covering the area allows you to loosen the soil less often or without loosening the soil at all, and also reduces the need for frequent watering and inhibits the growth of weeds. It is advisable to pinch cucumbers for open ground over 5-6 leaves to stimulate the growth of lateral lashes.

Watering cucumbers

Before flowering, cucumbers are watered every 5-7 days at the rate of 3 to 6 liters per m². When flowering begins, cucumbers need to be watered more often (once every 2-3 days) and more abundantly (6-12 liters per 1 m²). Watering is carried out with settled warm water (about 25 ºC) early in the morning or in the evening. If the water is poorly absorbed into the soil, make punctures in the aisle with a pitchfork to a depth of 10-15 cm - the water should soak the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm. You need to water the cucumbers under the root, trying not to fall on the leaves.

So that a jet of water does not erode the soil and the roots are not exposed, watering is carried out with a watering can with a divider nozzle. The main thing in watering is balance: remember that due to insufficient moisture, cucumbers grow bitter, and fungal diseases occur from excessive moisture, so before watering cucumbers, make sure that they really need it.

How to tie cucumbers

Growing cucumbers in open ground is carried out in two ways - horizontal or vertical. Among the vertical methods, there are several witty and even exotic ones. For example, growing cucumbers in leaky barrels, in plastic bags, in a hut or under a black film. Since cucumbers are vines, they need to be tied, a procedure that saves space, avoids contracting certain diseases, and makes harvesting easier. They begin to tie cucumbers to a support in the development phase of 3-4 leaves, in fact, almost immediately after planting in open ground.

Like the methods of growing cucumbers, the garter can also be horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way tying between the two-meter poles driven in at the beginning and end of the row stretches several rows of strong rope or wire, along which the lashes will rise as they grow.

vertical way involves the installation of a U-shaped structure on the bed, which consists of two dug-in strong vertical supports with a wire stretched between their upper points, to which ropes will be tied around the stems of cucumbers growing below. These ropes can be pulled up as the whips grow, but there is no need to pull them hard. Instead of ropes, it is better to use wide fabric ribbons - they will not injure plants in strong winds. Cucumber whip is captured with a rope loop under the first or second leaf.

How to form a cucumber bush

Since cucumbers are divided into varieties with strong, moderate and limited lateral branching, this should be taken into account when planting seedlings on the site: the more branchy the variety, the less bushes should be planted. Varieties with strong branching require shaping, which must be carried out in a timely manner and in stages. At the first stage, when the plant has only 3-4 leaves, all stepsons and ovaries must be removed up to the fourth leaf so that the plant expends energy solely on the formation of the root system. When 8 leaves have already developed on the seedling, leave one ovary on the branches from the fourth to the eighth leaf, and pinch the branch following it.

Repeat this procedure in time from the eighth leaf to the twelfth, leaving two ovaries already and removing the rest of the side branch. As a result, the bush will take the form of an inverted Christmas tree, which will allow it to better absorb nutrition and develop, and will also have a positive effect on the quality and quantity of fruits.

Top dressing of cucumbers

In order for cucumbers to grow healthy and large, they are fed on average 6-8 times per season. The first feeding is carried out at the beginning of flowering, and each subsequent one two weeks after the previous one. How to fertilize cucumbers? From organics, cucumbers are best perceived by a solution of bird droppings in a ratio of 1:25 or mullein 1:10. Solution consumption - 4-6 liters per 1 m². Fertilizers are applied on moist soil, trying not to get on the leaves and stems of plants. Do not fertilize cucumbers during a cold snap, as heat-loving crops are not able to absorb nutrients at low temperatures.

Cucumber processing

Readers sometimes complain that ground cucumbers are often exposed to fungal diseases and ask how to process cucumbers in order to increase their immunity to various rots. We offer you a folk way that increases the resistance of cucumbers to diseases. Lubricate the lower 10 cm of vertically growing cucumber stems with diluted water in a ratio of 1: 2 with iodine or brilliant green - plants treated in this way do not need fungicides. To protect cucumbers from rot, it is carried out preventive treatment plants with a solution of 10 ml of iodine in 10 liters of water.

Pests and diseases of cucumbers

The fight against diseases of cucumbers and their pests is too serious a topic, and it’s impossible to fit into one section, therefore detailed information we will describe all cucumber enemies in a separate article. In it, we will also talk about why cucumbers dry, why cucumbers turn yellow and how to process cucumbers when infected with a particular disease. For now, let's just name the diseases and pests that you will have to deal with if you begin to neglect the rules for growing and caring for cucumbers. So what's wrong with cucumbers?

Of the diseases, anthracnose, bacteriosis, ascochitosis, verticillium, powdery mildew (true and false), black leg, black mold, gray rot, olive and brown spot and ring mosaic are dangerous for cucumbers.

There are also a lot of insects that can harm cucumbers: aphids, gall nematode, bear, scoop, sprout fly, tobacco thrips, spider mite and wireworm.

Slugs are also dangerous.

To combat diseases and pests of vegetable plants used for food, it is advisable not to use chemicals, especially at the stage of formation and development of fruits. There are many time-tested folk ways to get rid of this kind of trouble, and we will definitely tell you about them.

Collection and storage of cucumbers

Cucumbers are harvested as they ripen, and when fruiting begins, this must be done at least once every two days, otherwise the cucumbers will outgrow, turn yellow and prevent the formation of new greens. In addition to collecting ripe fruits, all unsuccessful and ugly fruits must be removed. The more often you shoot greens, the more abundant new ones will grow. Since cucumbers 8-12 cm in size are used for canning, from 8 to 18 cm for pickling, and larger cucumbers are also suitable for salad, you can adjust the number of fruits for the purpose you need by the frequency of collection.

For example, with daily harvesting of greens, cucumbers for canning will begin to grow intensively, with harvesting once every two days there will be more raw materials for pickling. After the first frost, you will have to collect all the fruits.

You need to remove the greens early in the morning or in the evening so that the stalk remains on the whip, so it is better to cut the cucumbers, and not to pull or pull. When taking out a cucumber growing in the depths of a bush, try not to turn the whips over. Do not keep the collected fruits in the sun, immediately place them in a cool shade. Fresh cucumbers are stored, unfortunately, for a very short time, which is why they are marinated and salted in large quantities, but greens can lie down for a week or two with proper handling.

You can put the cucumbers in a pot of water and store them there for up to ten days, tightly covered and changing the water daily. You can lightly beat the egg white, coat it with cleanly washed cucumbers and let this coating dry - after this treatment, the cucumbers can be stored without putting them in the refrigerator. It is good to store cucumbers in a village or in a country house, if there is a deep stream nearby that does not freeze in winter: thick-skinned cucumbers are put in a barrel and lowered into running water. With this method of storage, cucumbers will be fresh until the middle of winter.

Types and varieties of cucumbers

According to their intended use, cucumber varieties are divided into salad, canning and universal. Cucumbers of canned varieties have a thin skin, they are distinguished by a high content of sugars, which is very important for pickling and canning. The coarser and thicker skin of lettuce varieties prevents the penetration of brine and marinade into the vegetable, but these cucumbers are much tastier fresh than canned greens. Universal cucumbers can be both canned and consumed fresh.

Canned cucumbers include the following varieties: Business, Brigantine, Rodnichok, Favorit, Voronezh, Salting, Harvest 86, Reliable, Nezhinsky local, Competitor, Cascade.

Salad varieties: Adam, Graceful, Movir, Saltan, Phoenix, Parade, Synthesis, Rzhavsky local.

Universal varieties of cucumbers: Stork, Epilogue, Marinda, Regia, Duet, Cruise, Crane, Farmer, Sagittarius, Moravian gherkin, Khabar and others.

According to the ripening time, cucumbers are divided into early-ripening, ripening in 32-45 days, mid-ripening, which need from 40 to 45 days for full maturity, and late-ripening varieties, ripening up to 50 days or longer.

Early varieties and hybrids include: Liliput, Graceful, Zabiyaka, Emelya, Zadavaka, Blizzard.

Medium-ripe varieties of cucumbers: Pikas, Athlete, Stepnoy, Solnechny, Unity, Far East 27, Competitor, Topolek.

Late varieties: Nezhinsky, Phoenix, Khrust, Secret, Chinese climbing, Rodnichok, Chinese miracle, Parisian, Mother-in-law.

Cucumbers are divided into hybrids and varieties: hybrids during seed propagation do not retain their properties, like varietal cucumbers, capable of transmitting the characteristics of a variety through several generations. But hybrids begin to bear fruit earlier and more abundantly, in addition, they are stored longer and turn yellow much later than varietal cucumbers, so hybrid seeds are more valuable and much more expensive than varietal cucumber seeds.

Hybrid varieties include: Buyan, Marinda, Othello, Parker, Regina, Pasadena, Business, Ajax, Brigantine, German, Emelya, Katyusha, Swallow, True friends and others.

According to the type of pollination, cucumbers are divided into bee-pollinated, which are grown in open ground, and self-pollinated, or parthenocarpic, grown both in greenhouses and in the garden.

Bee pollinated varieties of cucumbers: Athlete, Zhuravlyonok, Table, Graceful, Favorite, Slavic, Katyusha, Competitor, Casanova, Nugget, Swallow and others.

Self-pollinating varieties: Adam, Aelita, Stella, Yuventa, Russian style, Romance, Picnic, Navruz, Marta, Pasadena, Voyage, Danila, Amazon, White angel and others.

According to the size of greens, cucumbers are divided into gherkins, the length of which is not more than 8 cm, and salad-type cucumbers intended for eating raw.

Gherkins include varieties of German selection: Adam, Graceful, Othello, Libelle and others.

By the nature of the surface, cucumbers are small-tuberous and large-tuberous, and the spikes on them can be white or black.

White-thorn lettuce varieties: Emerald stream, Chinese snakes, Chinese heat-resistant.

Black-thorned pickling varieties: Nightingale, real colonel, Salting, Liliput, Aquarius and others.

If you are interested in exotic varieties and hybrids, then there are a lot of them among cucumbers. For example:

Chinese long cucumbers

the stem of which reaches 3.5 m in length, and the fruits - from 40 to 90 cm, however, they amaze not only with their size and excellent taste, but also with ease of cultivation, unpretentious care and high yield. The most common varieties are: Chinese miracle, Chinese long-fruited, Chinese farmer's, Chinese white, Emerald stream, Lio Ming, Chinese disease-resistant;

Armenian cucumbers

have very unusual view: ribbed fruits up to 50 cm long and up to a kilogram in weight are covered with a silvery-white fluff. The stems of Armenian cucumbers reach a length of 4 meters. Grow this curiosity both in the open field and in the greenhouse. Varieties: Silver melon, White Bogatyr, Chalk on Flehu-ozus;

Italian cucumbers

They are called so because they are the result of the work of Italian breeders. Outwardly, they look like Armenian cucumbers - the same ribbed ones. But the color of the peel, depending on the variety, can be light green, like the Arbuzze variety, or Tortorello, the taste of which simultaneously resembles both watermelon and cucumber, or dark green, which eventually becomes orange-yellow, like the Barrese variety, cucumber flavored with watermelon;

crystal apple

English breeders have managed to bring out an amazing cucumber hybrid that looks more like a lemon, although it tastes like an ordinary cucumber. For some reason this miracle is called the Crystal Apple. These lemon-cucumbers, called apples, grow on a six-meter stem;

white cucumbers

Equally well growing both in greenhouses and in the garden, they form long lashes, are not afraid of diseases and fifty-degree heat. The most delicate sweetish cucumbers reach a length of 20 cm, the only drawback of white cucumbers is that they quickly outgrow. The best varieties: Italian White, Snow Leopard, Bride, Snow White, White Angel, Three White Leaves;

mini cucumber

Or melotria rough - a decorative perennial liana from Africa with rich green leaves that do not change color until October, and small fruits up to 2.5 cm in diameter, similar to watermelons, but taste like ordinary cucumbers that can be eaten fresh or salted or preserve;

Indian cucumber

Or momordica, easy to grow in the garden and on the windowsill. The foliage of the plant is decorative, bright yellow flowers smell like jasmine, and tuberous elongated fruits gradually change color from dark green to bright orange as they grow. When the fruit ripens, it opens and becomes like a crocodile with its mouth open, which is why the vegetable is often called “crocodile cucumber”;

Trichosanth serpentine cucumber

Also a pumpkin plant, widely cultivated in Southwest Asia. Trichosanth is unpretentious in care and immune to diseases, its fruits, reaching a length of 120 cm, are cylindrical in shape, and they wriggle like snakes, changing color from green to orange as they ripen. Trichosanth flowers resemble weightless snowflakes with a diameter of 4 cm;

Red cucumber tladianta dubious

Perennial liana up to 5 m tall, native to South-East Asia. The leaves of the tladianta are light green, heart-shaped, tulip-like flowers are bright yellow, the fruits are small, suitable for canning and pickling, until they outgrow 15 cm and begin to turn red. Overgrown and reddened fruits become sweet, and excellent jam is obtained from them;

Antillean cucumber anguria

A plant with watermelon leaves, stems up to 4 meters long and small fruits weighing 30-50 g, taste like cucumber and suitable for pickling. Anguria is often grown as an ornamental plant.

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