Properly chosen foundation is a reliable basis for the house and the term and quality of operation of the structure directly depends on it. A brick house will require a more powerful foundation than a building, for example, made of foam blocks. That is why it is worth deciding in advance on the type of foundation under brick house and possible amplification.

Choosing the type of foundation

Since a brick house has a rather impressive mass, this fact must be taken into account when choosing a foundation. If the base is equipped without taking into account the load, then cracks may appear in the walls and even their destruction. To understand the future mass of the structure, it is necessary to have a clear idea of ​​​​how to calculate this indicator. A brick house can withstand only slab, tape and pile types of foundations.

A brick house, as a rule, is not built on a shallow foundation. This fact is relevant only to the foundation tape or pile, as they will not be able to withstand on themselves big weight buildings.

Regardless of the type, the selected foundation must be built in accordance with all existing standards. These include taking into account the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, the terrain and the level of groundwater. A concrete answer on all these indicators can only be given by a specialist who will analyze in detail and determine the characteristics of the soil and other indicators with greater accuracy, in accordance with which, he will calculate the foundation.

The following tables present data on the dependence of the type of foundation on the underlying soil and load.

Tape type foundation

The strip foundation for a brick house is a base in the form of a strip that lies under the load-bearing and internal walls. It differs in that it is simple in execution, but at the same time withstands significant loads. Such a base is widely used for heavy concrete or brick houses. The convenience of this foundation is that it is possible to create a basement or basement under the house, where the foundation tapes will be used as walls.

The tape base is divided into monolithic and prefabricated. In the first case, the tape is obtained by pouring the solution into the formwork with additional reinforcement. Such a foundation can be done with your own hands, but you will have to wait about a week until the solution hardens and gains strength.

The prefabricated foundation is made from prefabricated elements that are laid in the order dictated by the project. The difficulty lies in the fact that for its installation you will need heavy equipment with which you can move the blocks. This foundation is not as strong as the first one.

Also, the tape base can be divided depending on how deep it is in the ground. For light buildings, shallow foundations are used, which go into the soil to a depth of only 50 - 70 cm. But, as mentioned earlier, this type of foundation is not The best decision For brick house. As a basis for a brick house, it is better to use a deep foundation. It is constructed so that the structure is below the freezing level of the soil by about three dozen centimeters. The strip foundation for a brick house is built as follows:

  • Clearing the site, removing the top layer and marking.

    Important! At this stage, it is important to observe strict geometry.

  • Digging a pit or trench. This can be done with the help of an excavator or, which is more time and effort consuming, but cheaper in cost, with your own hands. The pit is dug in case of equipment ground floor if it is not needed, then only a trench will suffice. The dimensions of the pit and trench should be slightly larger than indicated in the calculated plan. This is necessary for the design of the formwork and more convenient pouring of the solution into it. The bottom of the dug trenches must be leveled with a theodolite, and all corners are also aligned.
  • Formation of sand and gravel cushion. This layer must be at least 20 cm. Before backfilling, the bottom of the trench must be moistened with plain water.
  • Tampering the prepared cushion with a vibrating plate and laying waterproofing material on it.
  • For a prefabricated foundation, a cushion is installed in the places where concrete blocks will be installed. The blocks are placed in their places and fixed with a cement-sand mixture. The masonry algorithm is the same as for bricks.
  • For a monolithic foundation, it is necessary to install a formwork made of boards about 5 cm thick and fix it with spacers. The best option would be a collapsible formwork of a frame-panel type. Since the foundation must rise above the ground by at least 40 cm, then based on this, we make the height of the formwork.
  • Creating a frame from reinforcement. It is welded from rods with a cross-sectional index that is between 6 and 10 mm. The reinforcing mesh is placed in the formwork.
  • Concrete is poured in layers of 20 cm, constantly processing each layer with a special vibrator to eliminate voids.

    Important! The consistency of the concrete should not be too liquid, it needs to be moved with effort.

  • Waiting for the concrete to dry completely, which can take about 1 month. The first days the surface of the foundation is poured with water to increase the moisture level of the material.
  • Removal of formwork and formation of a waterproofing layer on the foundation.
  • Backfilling of the foundation, which is done carefully so that the waterproofing is not damaged.

The device of a slab foundation for a brick house

This foundation is the simplest in its design, as it is a monolithic slab that lies under the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. It is able to take on loads and distribute them evenly during ground movements. Perfect for arranging on heaving and subsidence soil, as well as on too waterlogged soil.

For a brick house, you can mount both shallow and recessed types slab bases. They are created from precast concrete beams, a reinforced monolithic slab, as well as from prefabricated slabs, which must be connected together.

The installation algorithm for a shallow slab base for a brick house is as follows:

  1. Clearing the site, removing the top fertile layer and marking the future foundation.
  2. Removal of a small amount of soil to a depth that is slightly greater than the thickness of the foundation.
  3. Leveling the surface and backfilling the sand and gravel cushion. Careful leveling of the finished layer and passing over it with a vibrating plate. A small pour of concrete on top of the finished pillow.
  4. A vinyl-type film, roofing felt, geotextile is laid over the flooded surface. On top of all this, heat-insulating material is laid.
  5. Execution of formwork around the perimeter.
  6. Laying the reinforcing mesh inside the formwork.
  7. Pouring concrete in one step to prevent cold bridges. The finished layer is processed with a vibrator.
  8. Waiting for complete solidification from two weeks to a month.

Foundation on piles for a brick house

It is able to transfer the load from the house to those layers of soil that are harder than those lying on the surface. That is why such a foundation is installed on those soils that crumble and are unstable, since they cannot withstand the weight of a brick house. Perfect pile foundation suitable for hard ground. Its use in such conditions is due to lower installation and material costs. To create a pile foundation, you will need to rent equipment for drilling wells and installing piles.

On this moment exists great amount various pile foundations depending on the type of piles used and their installation. For a brick house, the most successful option would be a reinforced concrete foundation with bored piles with a wide sole. To install it, follow these steps:

  1. Clearing the foundation, removing the sod and marking the places where the piles will be installed in accordance with the plan.
  2. Excavation of soil in places marked for piles.
  3. Drilling wells under piles with a hand drill or with the help of specialized equipment.
  4. Preparation of the reinforcing cage by welding together several reinforcing bars. The reinforcing frame is made about 30 cm above ground level. This is necessary so that you can then install a grillage on it.

    Advice! As a formwork for piles that rise above ground level, you can use metal pipes that fit in diameter.

  5. Laying a layer of sand and gravel on the bottom of each trench and installing a reinforcing frame.
  6. Pouring concrete into the prepared trench and processing it with a vibrator.
  7. During the solidification of concrete in piles, it is necessary to make a reinforcing frame, which will be a good basis for the grillage and tie it to the piles.

    Advice! The formwork for the grillage can be made of wood, but the most successful option would be to install a prefabricated panel. It is easier to install, and the grillage itself is of better quality.

  8. Pouring concrete into the grillage formwork in several steps, shaking the concrete after each layer.
  9. Waiting for the complete solidification of concrete and a set of fortresses, carrying out waterproofing work.

How to strengthen the foundation for a brick house

In a situation where the foundation is already ready and a decision has been made to change the material of the house to brick or the house has been purchased, but there are cracks on the walls, it is possible to strengthen the foundation. The easiest way is to increase the base area, but other options are possible:


Conclusion

If you plan to build a brick house on the site, then you need to carefully select a base that can withstand the weight of this structure and make it possible to operate it without any problems and the threat of destruction.

We use Compact Mini M. When we bought it, I didn’t like the quality of the components right away - only with the help of a well-known mother we managed to push the ventilation corrugation into the hole, which is burned out like some kind of soldering iron at the factory. Also, the mechanism for scattering peat turned out to be absolutely useless - in which direction you don’t turn it - it gets where it should be extremely rarely, it’s better to sprinkle it with a scoop.
The second point - it is better to immediately drain the urea in the bottom, and not leave the one provided by the manufacturer, as I did - you can see it in the photo in the attachments.
The third point - if ventilation is done - then the smell in the room is really not felt, which is good.
The fourth point: flies - it is worth a couple to get inside the bioreactor - and that's it, they multiply at a wild speed - in a couple of days more than fifty adults. And they make their way there calmly - despite the tightness of the cover declared by the manufacturer - they crawl under the cover without any problems. Therefore, if you have a room with a toilet without an airlock and flies can get in there - then after you have "done the job" - put an additional piece of cardboard on the hole, and then lower the toilet seat with a lid. In principle, you can glue a thick piece of foam rubber on the lid so that it tightly closes the hole. It is also necessary to provide an obstacle for the penetration of flies through the ventilation - I glued pieces of the remnants of a mosquito net to the ventilation holes of the pipe head, and they should also not be able to climb through the urea drain. You can not do all this - but then stock up on a fly remedy, and you will have to spray it often and inside the pot too, which is not good - fertilizer with dichlorvos obviously will not be a useful top dressing for plants.
Another problem is condensation. In principle - while the nights are warm - this is not so obvious, but when the temperature difference between day and night is significant - quite a lot of condensate falls inside the ventilation. The bioreactor works and generates heat, and the moisture from the exhaust settles inside the pipe and even on the plastic lid of the pot. As a temporary solution, I insulated the ventilation - but this does not help the campaign much, it is necessary to provide for the drainage of condensate from the ventilation, and if, again, glue foam rubber on the lid of the pot - this, in addition to saving from flies, should save from condensation on the lid.
I consider it economically inexpedient to do forced ventilation with the help of fans, the operation of the toilet is already costly - in addition to paper, you also need to buy peat, and if you also have to spend electricity - well, such a pot in the bathhouse. And without fans, there is no smell ...
When arranging a summer cottage, one cannot ignore such an aspect as the availability of amenities in the form of water supply and a toilet, because this will determine how comfortable the rest will be.

Installing an ordinary street toilet over a cesspool is losing its relevance. Such a bathroom on the site is a source of an unpleasant odor and, like a magnet, attracts insects.

Peat dry closet for giving

A new word in the field of installing toilets for summer cottages is a peat dry closet, which acquires everything great popularity. What is a peat dry closet?

A peat toilet is a structure that looks like an ordinary toilet with a flush tank, where the water is replaced by peat, which will be added after each use. In using such a bathroom there are pleasant moments:

  • The unpleasant smell will disappear;
  • The excess liquid will be absorbed by the peat, and the latrine will need to be cleaned only once every few months (depending on the frequency of use);
  • No need for electricity, plumbing and sewerage;
  • The resulting waste can be an excellent environmental fertilizer.

How it works?


The principle of operation of a peat dry closet is quite simple: when used, the waste enters the accumulation tank, after which it must be sprinkled with peat, turning the handle of the tank first in one direction and then in the other to evenly distribute the peat.

The volume of peat used at a time can be adjusted: it is poured out as much as you turn the knob.

It is necessary to immediately make a reservation that the peat filler will need to be purchased, since, in addition to, in fact, peat, other necessary substances are added to it, as well as microorganisms, whose vital activity will significantly speed up the processing of waste.

Peat powder can even absorb liquid waste if only one person uses the toilet. In the event that it will be used by the whole family, drainage will be needed with the removal of excess fluid to a special place or simply to the ground.

When the retractable container built into the peat toilet is full, its contents will need to be placed in a special compost pit in order to obtain an environmentally friendly fertilizer in two years.

Which peat dry closet is better to choose?

The vast majority of dry closets using peat are produced by Finnish companies, such as:


The Finnish peat toilet for a summer residence is designed for the use of a filler that, in addition to peat itself, also contains sawdust. Advantageously, the Finnish dry closet and the size of the containers (110 liters) make them suitable for use by several people or the whole family.

Among domestic manufacturers, Piteco stands out clearly. Its peat toilets are inferior to Finnish ones in terms of capacity, but they attract the buyer with the price and separation of waste into fractions and filters.

Peat dry closets can be conditionally divided into the following types:

  • Composting dry closet - it needs electricity for waste separation, ventilation and drying;
  • Capacitive, considered to be completely autonomous, since they really do not need water, electricity, or sewage.

IN Lately The new Swedish-made Separett Villa 9011 composting dry closet, equipped with a system for drying waste mixed with peat and turning it into ready-made compost in the shortest possible time, is gaining more and more popularity.

The company that produces this composting dry closet, in the product description, insists on its absolute safety for environment by refusing to use any chemical substances. Its benefits also include:

  • 1. Economical consumption of electricity;
  • 2. Absolute elimination of unpleasant odors;
  • 3. No need to connect to the sewer, although the design still provides for this possibility;
  • 4. The need to empty the tank at intervals of two to three months;
  • 5. Thrift (no materials are spent, which will positively affect the family budget).

How about the size?

The dimensions of peat toilets depend on the volume of the waste container. In any case, the dimensions of the visible part do not differ much from an ordinary toilet bowl.


Volumes and sizes of containers vary depending on the manufacturer and the specific model. The choice of dry closet will depend on how many people will use it, and how often this will happen.

How to choose a peat toilet for a summer residence?

It is quite easy to choose a toilet using peat, since it will be necessary to focus mainly on the volume of the container and the size of the toilet bowl, because it will need to be placed in a specially designated room, which is rarely spacious.

The choice is a simple task, but still, before buying, you need to ask yourself and the seller next questions:


You should also pay attention to:

  • The height of the toilet bowl (optimally - from 40 to 60 centimeters);
  • The presence of wheels on the tanks (if the dimensions do not allow carrying);
  • The material from which the toilet is made (preferably low-pressure polyethylene);
  • The presence in the complete set of a bathroom with everything necessary;
  • Drainage filters.

How to install a peat dry closet?

The installation of such a latrine is quite simple and consists of several successive steps:


  • Ventilation is provided (it is necessary to run a ventilation pipe, its length is at least three meters through the roof of the toilet or the wall of the house). A large pipe length is necessary so that the unpleasant odor does not linger in the room;
  • Install drainage: a hose that drains excess fluid must be led into a gutter or buried in the ground;
  • Fill the upper compartment of the toilet bowl with peat filler;
  • Attach the toilet firmly to the floor.

drainage system

Both capacitive and composting dry closets need drainage to be present and properly installed.


Drainage is a pipe or pipe system that drains excess fluid from pre-designated areas. In this case, liquid waste must be discharged. the main task- bring the drainage outside the toilet itself into a special container, from where the liquid is gradually absorbed into the ground. As a rule, the drainage system comes with a dry closet and instructions for installation and operation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Naming the advantages of a peat dry closet, users who leave product reviews usually note:

The main advantage of a peat dry closet is environmental friendliness

Speaking about the shortcomings, many mention:

  • Mandatory ventilation;
  • The need for careful sealing due to their attractiveness to insects;
  • A fairly common problem with the dosage of peat spilled onto waste (many types of toilet bowls are not equipped with dispensers);
  • The need to specifically make purchases of peat;
  • The need for regular replacement of peat (if not changed, a specific and rather unpleasant smell will appear) once every three months.

Video: Overview of a peat composting dry closet

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T traditional country toilet causes only unpleasant associations associated with a swarm of flies and a bad smell. But the modern market offers a lot original ideas. One of them is installation. It does not require the installation of a complete drainage system. Owners of suburban households can pick up a high-quality peat toilet for a summer residence. Which better option choose, suggest Additional Information about the properties of individual models. A closet for a summer residence can be equipped in the form of a plastic booth or a wooden structure. The principle of operation of such a design is based on the processes of waste mineralization. At the same time, this option is cheaper than standard dry closets and easier to clean.

The peat device does not take up much space. You can not only buy it, but also make it yourself

Peat-based closets operate on the principle of composting. With the help of biologically active ingredients, waste is processed into compost mass. Peat mixture is used as such ingredients.

Peat is characterized by bactericidal properties, therefore, in addition to the decomposition of waste, it allows you to eliminate odors. In addition, the natural filler allows you to absorb excess liquid. In this case, cleaning is carried out once every two months.


Electricity and piping systems are not required to maintain a turf toilet. It is worth deciding which is the best option to purchase for your home ownership. The mixture obtained after processing can be used as an environmentally friendly fertilizer.


Helpful information! Peat construction is easy to maintain. It is required to clean the storage tank in time and add peat. When washing the container, no chemicals are used. It must be washed with a simple soapy solution. Do not add lime and ash to the peat mixture.

Advantages

Can be considered various options peat toilet for a summer residence: which one is better to choose depends on certain properties of a particular model. This has the following advantages:

  • mobility, it can be moved anywhere;
  • you can determine when repairs are being made in the house;
  • elimination of unpleasant odors without the use of deodorizing agents;
  • characterized by simple maintenance and affordable price.

Helpful information! After cleaning the container, you can get a large amount of fertilizer.

Operating principle

When deciding which peat toilet to choose for a summer residence, which one is better to buy, you should first study the device of such a system.

The closet consists of the following elements:

  • the upper box is used to accommodate the peat composition, in this part there is a mechanism for distributing raw materials;
  • a lower tank is used for waste treatment, a toilet bowl with a lid is mounted on it;
  • a ventilation line is removed from the lower tank, liquid is removed through it and unpleasant odors are removed.


Waste, when it enters the tank, is mixed with peat and transformed into a nutrient medium for soil microorganisms. In this case, the waste is divided into the following parts:

  • the liquid turns into vapors, which are discharged into the soil or evaporate through the ventilation hole;
  • compost;
  • carbon dioxide, which is removed through the ventilation line.

The ventilation line should have few corners and be located higher. At in large numbers users, a forced ventilation setting should be installed.

Important! Do not fill up the peat to the stop. This can cause malfunctions in the mechanism for supplying the mixture to the lower tank.

Related article:

Peat toilet for a summer residence: which one is better to choose?

When deciding on a choice - which one to buy a peat toilet for a summer residence, which one is better, reviews will help you choose best option.

When choosing, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

  • dimensions, the design must fit into a pre-prepared place;
  • the volume of the lower tank, on which the frequency of cleaning the device depends;
  • filling sensor, which signals that it is time to clean;
  • seat load.

Peat structures are of the following varieties:

  • biological or compost;

  • chemical or liquid;

Depending on the manufacturer, chemical constructs may have a different design.

  • the electric model works like a composting option, but it requires a connection to the network.

Popular manufacturers and prices

You can buy a peat toilet for a summer residence at different prices. The cost is influenced by the chosen brand and certain design properties.

Helpful information! You can buy ecomatic peat toilet of domestic production. It also, like the Finnish model, has many advantages. The package includes a special thermal seat.

How is a peat toilet installed?

The contents of the peat structure tank are used as fertilizer. But in order for the composition to become useful, it must be kept in a compost pit.

For this, a thermocompost is created. A hole is dug and a reservoir is placed inside.

You can make a peat device with your own hands. In doing so, the following actions are performed:

  • a box is assembled where a plastic container will be placed. The box is knocked down from 4 boards, which are mounted with self-tapping screws;

A special coating will protect the structure from rotting and fungi

  • to drain the liquid at the bottom of the tank, a hole is made where the drainage line is led. To avoid blockages, the hole should be covered with a special pipe with a grate.

Then the toilet is installed in a pre-selected place and a wooden cabin is built. About 5 cm of peat is poured to the bottom of the tank. When using the design for the season, one bag of peat mixture is enough.

To make composting processes even faster, you can purchase special biological accelerators.

Helpful information! If the raw materials in the compost pit are covered with black, then the speed of processing the composition can be affected.

Article

Which building is built first? suburban area? Right! Toilet! You can live for some time in the ward, but without a latrine you can’t live even a day. But the time of ridiculous, foul-smelling and collecting swarms of flies "birdhouses" has passed. Now it is hardly possible to find a person who would voluntarily agree to the construction of such an “old-fashioned” closet. Peat toilet for a summer residence - here it is, the best option for a connoisseur of civilization in everything and always. The lack of water and sewerage now cannot become an obstacle to the bright dream of a clean and "cultural" outhouse.

The modern market is ready to offer any models from any of the brands: imported ones are more expensive, domestic ones are cheaper, but the essence of a dry closet, depending on the quality of the material or the name of the manufacturer, does not change - to provide maximum comfort during the summer (or weekend) suburban residence of a person.

Peat toilet for a summer residence: which one is better? Sooner or later, this issue appears on the agenda of summer residents who are tired of periodically calling vacuum trucks or suffering from an unpleasant smell, especially noticeable in the heat, when it's time to enjoy the sun and the aroma of barbecue ...

To answer it, we will consider all the options - from purchased toilets from different manufacturers, to those made with our own hands.

Usually holiday villages, although they are located near the city, cannot boast of having a water pipe, which is so necessary for installing a standard toilet bowl. And, if so, every summer resident can try out a non-standard toilet bowl - without water. At the same time, you should not be afraid of the appearance of odors characteristic of the toilet - when using peat, they will be even less than when using a conventional toilet bowl, washed with tens of liters of water and sprayed dozens of times with a freshener.

A peat toilet is the lightest and most convenient type of dry closet to use, visually resembling a neat toilet bowl, which can be placed both outdoors under a canopy, and in a separate room, or located in a country house.

The principle of operation of a modern latrine lies in the mineralization of human waste products using the properties of peat.

Peat toilets are compact, mobile (some models have wheels for more comfortable transportation of the container to the compost pit), easy to operate, and require neither electricity nor water to function.

Compared to a liquid dry closet, a peat toilet is much cheaper and easier to operate.

Peat toilet, environmentally friendly

So, peat is a natural sorbent material suitable for use as a filler. And not just suitable, but the only optimal option.

  1. Ecological cleanliness of peat allows you to safely install a toilet in any suitable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site or house.
  2. Peat perfectly absorbs liquid, allowing you to clean the toilet no more than once every 1-2 months. The instructions say that it is enough to clean it once every six months, but this is the case when the biotoilet is used moderately - by one person or a family only on weekends. If the frequency of use is more frequent, or the toilet is designed for a large family, it is better not to wait, but to empty the container at the moment when it is half full.
  3. Peat that has been in the toilet becomes a valuable organic fertilizer, since the bacteria that are in the substrate process the waste, turning it into high-quality compost.

Peat for peat toilets can be purchased at specialized stores, and some summer residents prepare raw materials with their own hands, adding small wood chips to it.

About the compost

The final metamorphosis of the waste occurs in the compost pit, where it is necessary to put the waste peat from the toilet. There they “ripen” to the level of fertilizer (very nutritious fertilizer), which is still not recommended to be poured onto beds with berries and vegetables - that is, those summer cottage gifts that are used for raw consumption.

Benefits of a peat closet

  1. Peat-filled toilets are easy to use and aesthetically pleasing. They can be placed in any interior, they are almost invisible.
  2. The service life of toilet bowls is not limited if you follow the rules of operation.
  3. The durable material from which peat toilets are made makes them almost invulnerable - the products are resistant to temperature extremes and shocks.
  4. The peat toilet has high hygienic indicators; the absence of unpleasant odors during operation is ensured by the odor absorber that the models are equipped with.
  5. A cheap and easy-to-install device with detailed instructions written in an accessible language.

Flaws

  1. The filled container becomes several times heavier, in order to carry it out, some efforts will have to be made - a woman or an old man will not be able to cope with this task. When choosing a peat dry closet for a summer residence, make sure that the model is equipped with small rollers for transportation.
  2. The need for additional installation of ventilation (in the form of a pipe) and drainage. This does not apply to all models - most toilets are equipped with a drainage system.
  3. The incompleteness of the mechanism for adding peat to the storage tank: the filler unevenly falls on the fecal matter, so it is also necessary to use a scoop for leveling.

How it works?

A latrine with peat filler does not need water at all. Then why is it equipped with a tank? This is not for the sake of style (in order, they say, to be no different from their fellow toilet bowls), the tank component is a practical thing: after visiting the toilet, you just need to turn the handle located on the side or top so that the necessary part of the filler spills into the container, covering the bowel movements.

When the tank is sufficiently filled with waste, its contents must be thrown into the compost pit to complete the recycling cycle.

Using purchased peat for the toilet, the summer resident is guaranteed to provide himself with a agent with microorganisms that can turn waste into useful compost. If you ignored the peat from the store and use natural forest filler, then composting will not be carried out and your “fashionable” toilet will quickly turn into an ordinary “grandmother's bucket”.

When choosing, pay attention to

When buying a peat-filled toilet, pay attention to details that are not immediately evident, but mean a lot during operation.

  1. The material from which high-quality peat toilet containers are made is frost-resistant plastic. In this case, you get the opportunity not to carry the "pot" back and forth, but to leave it for the winter in an unheated country house.
  2. To protect against flies, the toilet must be equipped with an airtight lid and a special valve in the ventilation pipe.
  3. The tray (waste tank) should be suitable for the needs of a family or a single person - not too big or too small.
  4. The presence of the indicator will allow you to control the filling level of the tank and clean it in time.

Installation instructions

Installing the newly acquired peat convenience is not difficult - even an unprepared person can handle it. But still, to get started, study a short instruction:

Dry closet of own design

If the price for a plastic container seems too high to you, you can create your own "author's project" without much cost, which will be no worse than a branded one.

True, instead of a tank, craftsmen offer to use an ordinary bucket with fresh peat and a scoop for falling asleep, well, sometimes you have to use a spatula with a purchased toilet.

And large plastic buckets are used as a waste reservoir in home-made dry closets, but this is not a problem - the container is securely hidden in a special box and no one sees its unsightlyness.

  1. From four boards, build a wooden box (square, rectangular, can be deck-like), on the side on which you plan to place the seat, cut a hole corresponding to the size of the container.
  2. Take a plastic toilet seat (wooden, insulated - it doesn’t matter, it’s important that it fits the size and is comfortable for toilet visitors), attach it to the hole.
  3. Place a container under the hole, make sure that there are several buckets, a replaceable tank is very convenient.
  4. Place a container with peat nearby.

Home-made peat toilets for summer cottages, reviews of which are in most cases positive and boil down to enormous cost savings, still require one purchased item - peat must be from the store.

The main feature of peat-type toilets is the disposal of waste products, and this process requires a sufficient amount of biomass, which is simply not present in a substance taken in its pure form from nature.

Filler for peat toilets costs no more than 750 rubles for 60-65 liters. This amount is enough for 150-250 applications.

Finnish toilet in the Russian version: distinctive features

The general characteristics of the Finnish peat toilet are as follows: a compact plastic structure, easily moved from place to place, non-volatile, dry matter is used to absorb sewage in the toilet.

In recent years, a new generation of developers of high-quality biological bathrooms has grown among Russian manufacturers. Taking a Finnish invention as a model, ours somewhat simplified the design and reduced the price of a much-needed product. And one more thing - they are among the competitors of foreign manufacturers, since a Finnish peat toilet for a summer residence is many times more expensive, and, according to Russian consumers, there is no difference.

But she still exists. A few moments are enough for the trained eye of a specialist to distinguish the Finnish model from the domestic one: