battle axes were a necessary part of the armament of the Slavs, so in Russia there were several types of them:

  • slander,
  • coinage,
  • ax (halberd).

Klevets

Klevets is a combat, short-pole hammer, a type of coinage. It had a blade in the form of a beak (hence its name) of various lengths. Often forged with a hammer on the butt, which has a variety of shapes: spiked, pyramidal, conical, smooth, etc. This ax weighed from 1 to 1.5 kg. The length of the shaft was from 60 to 80 cm. Often, the shaft had an all-metal handle, designed for one or two hands. The Slavic klevets also had a point on top, pointing upwards, which the Slavs called the "spear". Klevets could be combined with minted.

This type of ax was designed to carry near hand-to-hand combat, however, was often used by riders as well. Due to the narrow blade, the cleaver had a high penetrating power, which, moreover, was combined with a relatively light weight and convenience in combat. This ax could easily penetrate any armor, however, there was a possibility that if it got stuck, it would be difficult to remove it.

Coinage

Chekan - a battle ax with a beak-shaped blade and a flat striker on the butt, which was fixed with an eyelet on the handle. Name received from old Russian word"chasing", which is a synonym for the word "axe".

The blade of the coinage was 9 to 15 cm long and 10 to 12 cm wide, and the hole usually had a diameter of 2 to 3 cm. It weighed about 200 to 350 g.

This type of ax was used for close hand-to-hand combat. Many scientists and researchers often confuse coinage with slander, however, they have a number of significant differences:

  • coinage could cut through and break through shields,
  • it is much easier to remove it after the strike,
  • possessed an "anti-ricochet" property,
  • did not slip
  • could not bend or break upon impact with steel.

Often, to balance and increase the functionality of the tool, chasing and slander united on one tree.

Ax (halberd)

The ax is one of the varieties of battle axes, with a wide, up to 30 cm, crescent-shaped blade mounted on a handle up to 1 meter long. Often axes were made heavy. In Russia, axes were used mainly by infantrymen, therefore, in order to be able to pull the enemy off the horse and pierce the armor, they were often made with a long and strong spike on the butt, which was bent down.

By the 15th century, axes in Russia were supplanted by more effective reed, because it was more versatile.

Russian battle ax-Chekan

In search of history. Battle ax.

Passed long haul through the millennia, together with man, and still remains a very popular tool. Battle axes were practically revived after the Vietnam War (1964-1975) and are currently experiencing a new wave of popularity. The main secret ax lies in its versatility, although chopping trees with a battle ax is not very convenient.

Battle Ax Options

After watching films in which horned Vikings brandish huge axes, many are left with the impression that a battle ax is something huge, inspiring fear in its very appearance. But real battle axes differed from workers just in their small size and increased shaft length. The battle ax weighed, as a rule, from 150 to 600 grams, and the length of the handle was about 80 centimeters. With such weapons it was possible to fight for hours without getting tired. The exception was two-handed ax, the shape and size of which correspond to the impressive "cine" specimens.

Types of battle axes

By types and forms, battle axes can be divided into:

  • One-handed;
  • two-handed;
  • Single-edged;
  • Double-edged.

In addition, axes are divided into:

  • Actually axes;
  • Axes;
  • Coins;

Each of these species has many subspecies and variations, however, the main division looks exactly like this.

ancient battle ax

The history of the ax began in the Stone Age. As you know, the first tools for man were a stick and a stone. The stick evolved into a club or club, a stone into a sharp axe, which is the progenitor of the ax. A chopper could cut prey or cut a branch. Even then, the progenitor of the ax was used in inter-tribal skirmishes, as evidenced by the findings of broken skulls.

A turning point in the history of the ax was the invention of a method for connecting a stick with a handaxe. Such a simple design increased the impact power several times. At first, the stone was tied to the handle with vines or animal veins, which made the connection extremely unreliable, although the ax was enough for several blows. The shape of the stone ax already then resembled the modern one. Combat skirmishes required reliable weapons, and gradually axes began to be ground and attached to the handle through a hole drilled in stone. Making a high-quality ax required long and painstaking work, so skillfully made axes were used mainly in skirmishes with enemies. Already in that era, a division into battle and working axes appeared.

Axes of the Bronze Age

The heyday of the era of bronze axes occurred in ancient greece. At first, the battle ax of the Hellenes was made of stone, but with the development of metallurgy, battle axes began to be made of bronze. Along with bronze axes, stone axes were also used for a long time. Greek axes were first made double-edged. The most famous Greek ax with two blades is the labrys.

Images of labrys are often found on ancient Greek vases, it is held in the hands of the supreme god of the Greek pantheon Zeus. Findings of huge labris in the excavations of Cretan palaces testify to the cult and symbolic use of these axes. Labryses were divided into two groups:

  • Cult and ceremonial;
  • Combat labrys.

Everything is clear with the cult ones: because of their huge size, they simply could not be used in skirmishes. The combat labrys copied the size of an ordinary battle ax (a small ax with a long handle), only the blades were located on both sides. We can say that these are two axes combined into one. The complexity of manufacturing made such an ax an attribute of leaders and great warriors. Most likely, this served as the further ritualization of the labrys. To use it in battle, a warrior had to have considerable strength and dexterity. The labrys could be used as a two-handed weapon, because the two blades made it possible to strike without turning the shaft. In this case, the warrior had to dodge enemy blows, and any hit from the Labrys was usually fatal.

The use of a labrys paired with a shield required great skill and strength in the hands (although the labrys for this were made individually and were smaller). Such a warrior was practically invincible and in the eyes of others was the embodiment of a hero or god.

Axes of the barbarians of the era of ancient Rome

During the reign ancient rome The main weapon of the barbarian tribes was also an ax. Among the barbarian tribes of Europe there was no rigid division into classes, each man was a warrior, hunter and farmer. Axes were used both in everyday life and in war. However, in those days there was a very specific ax - Francis, which was used only for combat.

First encountered on the battlefield with barbarians armed by the Francis, the invincible legionnaires at first suffered defeat after defeat (however, the Roman military school quickly developed new methods of protection). Barbarians with huge force threw their axes at the legionnaires, and once on close range cut them down with great speed. As it turned out, the barbarian Francis were of two types:

  • Throwing, with a shorter handle, to which they often tied long rope, which allows you to pull the weapon back;
  • Francis for close combat, which was used as a two-handed or one-handed weapon.

This division was not rigid and, if necessary, the “ordinary” Francis could be thrown no worse than the “special” one.

The very name "Francisca" recalls that this battle ax was used by the Germanic tribe of the Franks. Each warrior had several axes, and the Francis for close combat was a carefully kept weapon and the pride of its owner. Numerous excavations of the burial places of rich warriors testify to the high importance of this weapon for the owner.

Viking battle ax

The ancient battle axes of the Vikings were a terrible weapon of that era and were associated specifically with sea robbers. One-handed axes had many forms that did not differ much from each other, but the two-handed Brodex ax was remembered for a long time by the enemies of the Vikings. The main difference between Brodex is a wide blade. With such a width, it is difficult to talk about the versatility of the ax, but he chopped off limbs with one blow. In that era, the armor was leather or chain mail, and a wide blade cut through them perfectly.

There were also one-handed brodexes, but the so-called "Danish ax" was exactly two-handed and was the best fit for foot and tall Scandinavian pirates. Why did the ax become the symbol of the Vikings? The Scandinavians went to the "Vikings" for prey not at all because of the incredible steepness, they were forced to do so by harsh natural conditions and barren lands. Where do poor farmers get money for swords? But everyone had an ax in the household. After reforging the blade, it was only necessary to plant the ax on a long, strong handle, and the terrible Viking was ready to go. After successful campaigns, the warriors acquired good armor and weapons (including swords), but the ax remained the favorite weapon of many fighters, especially since they masterfully owned it.

Battle axes of the Slavs

The shape of the battle axes of ancient Russia practically did not differ from the one-handed axes of Scandinavia. Since Russia had close ties with Scandinavia, the Russian battle ax was the twin brother of the Scandinavian. Foot Russian squads and especially the militia used battle axes as the main weapon.

Russia also maintained close ties with the East, from where a specific battle hatchet came from - coinage. It looks like a hatchet-slander. You can often find information that a chasing and a pick are one weapon - but despite the external similarity, these are completely different axes. The hammer has a narrow blade that cuts through the target, while the pick has a beak-like shape and pierces the target. If for the manufacture of a kletz it is possible to use metal not best quality, then the narrow blade of the coinage must withstand significant loads. The combat coinage of the Russians was the weapon of the riders who adopted this weapon from the equestrian steppes. Often, the coinage was richly decorated with precious inlay and served as a distinction of the military elite.

The battle ax in Russia in later times served as the main weapon of robber gangs and was a symbol of peasant riots (along with military scythes).

The ax is the main competitor of the sword

For many centuries, the battle ax was not inferior to such specialized weapons as the sword. The development of metallurgy made it possible to mass-produce swords designed exclusively for combat functions. Despite this, the axes did not lose ground, and judging by the excavations, they even took the lead. Consider why the ax as a universal tool could compete on equal terms with the sword:

  • The high cost of the sword compared to the ax;
  • The ax was available in any household and was suitable for battle after a slight alteration;
  • For an ax, it is optional to use high-quality metal.

Currently, many firms make so-called "tactical" tomahawks or battle axes. SOG products with their flagship model M48 are especially advertised. Axes have a very spectacular "predatory" appearance and various options butt (hammer, pick or second blade). These devices are more intended for military operations than for economic use. Because of the plastic handle, throwing such tomahawks is not recommended: they fall apart after a few hits against a tree. In the hand, this device is also not very comfortable and constantly tries to turn around, because of which the blow can turn out to be sliding or even flat. It is better to make a battle ax yourself or with the help of a blacksmith. Such a product will be reliable and made according to your hand.

Making a battle ax

In order to make a battle ax, you will need an ordinary household ax (preferably made in the USSR during Stalin's time), a template and a grinder with a sharpener. We cut the blade according to the template and give the desired shape to the ax. After that, the ax is mounted on a long handle. Everything, the battle ax is ready!

If you want to get a high-quality battle ax, you can forge it yourself or order it from a blacksmith. In this case, you can choose a steel grade and be completely confident in the quality of the finished product.

The history of battle axes has more than a dozen millennia, and although in modern world few models left for combat use, many people keep an ordinary ax at home or in the country, which can be done without special efforts turn into combat.

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.

I am fond of martial arts with weapons, historical fencing. I write about weapons military equipment because it is interesting and familiar to me. I often learn a lot of new things and want to share these facts with people who are not indifferent to military topics.

The taiga ax is special kind a tool that has a lot of differences from the usual carpentry tool that can be found in the home of every owner. A good tool is very hard to find and expensive, so we will make best ax do it yourself from conventional materials. Next, we consider the main differences, features, characteristics of the product and step by step instructions its manufacture.

Characteristics of the taiga ax and what it should be

Since the parameters of the ax handle and blade are very different from the usual sizes of “household” axes and will seem unusual to many, you first need to decide what tasks can be solved with this miracle device:

  • Tree felling. Felling at a sawmill, sanitary felling or logging for a log house - this is exactly what this ax was made for.
  • Rough work with logs (precisely rough!). Suitable for delimbing, grooving, removing thick bark and the like.
  • Ax "for survival". Lightweight hunting tool, suitable for quickly creating bags and trapping animals.
  • Construction of huts, decking, wooden houses " fast food". There will be no hut built without an ax handle, and with its help you can cope 4 times faster than when working with a carpenter's ax blade.
  • Work with firewood. If accuracy is a secondary concern, then this tool is perfect for the job.

If you want to make a tool for precision work, then it would be better to consider forged axes with a straight long blade. When cutting a tree, they are of little use, but the accuracy is very high. In addition to the quality of the “cut”, there are many more differences between the taiga ax and the usual one.

Rounded blade shorter . The ax is much lighter than usual, and the small area of ​​​​the working surface allows you to dig it much deeper into the wood, suitable for cutting wood across the grain. The tool is much easier to carry (the handle and head together weigh no more than 1400 grams).

Having a long beard . Its main task is to protect the wooden part from breaking when strong blows. Up to 60% of the impact force is absorbed. But it does not protect against impacts on logs - this is a delusion, since the special shape of the blade already performs this function.

Special Ax Sharpening . The rear edge of the blade is almost 2 times thinner than the front. This is done for the purpose of using the ax as a cleaver (when properly struck). In a conventional tool, the edge has a uniform thickness for high precision work.

Special tilt angle . The head of the taiga ax forms a much smaller angle with the ax handle. This allows you to increase the efficiency of work, relieves hand fatigue and increases productivity when cutting trees. The blow becomes much stronger than with a carpenter's ax, where the head and blade are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. All taiga axes handmade they try to do it with an angle of 75-65 degrees - this is their main difference.

Use ordinary circles for sharpening, since it can be very diverse. The main thing is to observe the difference in the thickness of the leading and trailing edges, since it is it that affects the productivity of the forester.

Do-it-yourself taiga ax - we make the head of the tool

It will not work to forge or pour a metal part at home, so let's go the simplest way and in a few steps we will make a taiga ax from an ordinary joiner's ax.

STEP 1: we take an old metal head from an ax, the weight of which is approximately 1400-1600 grams ( best option) and cut down the front ledge of the blade flush with the butt. 5-8 degree protrusion allowed, but it's better to remove it if you need the right axe.

STEP 2: make the back of the blade rounded, cut down the metal so that the entire touch surface is without corners. This can be done using an ordinary grinder or an emery wheel with a medium grain.

STEP 3: we cut out a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. It is necessary for a comfortable grip of the ax if it is necessary to plan something or for more precise work. With this form of an ax, you can pull up small logs or hang an ax on a branch of a tree. In addition, you can reduce the weight of the head by 150-200 grams.

STEP 4: cut off the upper corners of the butt. This will reduce the weight and increase the maneuverability of the tool. This operation can be omitted if the ax suits you.

Now it remains only to choose how to sharpen the ax. It is very important to use a low-speed tool (grinder can not be used!). An emery machine with a large circle and medium grain is ideal. Sharpening must be double-sided and with a moderately sharp edge (a very sharp one will die on the first tree).

We make an ax handle with our own hands

Do not neglect the handle for the ax, because it is it that affects the comfort of work. The holder must be balanced, comfortable, well ground and with the correct geometry so as not to injure the hands of the worker.

The first step is to choose the right wood for the ax handle. The first and easiest option is pine. It is very easy to sharpen and grind, but is unreliable due to its high brittleness. You can use birch - the best option and very affordable wood, which is easy to find. Maple and clear - ideal, but it is very difficult to make a handle from such wood in some latitudes.

The size of the ax can be at your discretion, a handle with a length of 50 to 70 centimeters (universal size) is recommended for the cleaver. Hiking option - 40 centimeters, but it is quite difficult to cut down trees and chop firewood. If the work with an ax involves only splitting chocks, then the handle can be increased to 120 centimeters - excellent impact power and productivity, but you lose in the comfort of use. Next, consider the step-by-step instructions for making an ax handle.

STEP 1: we select a wooden blank. The chock should be 20 centimeters longer, and its diameter should be at least 12 cm. Without knots, rotten areas, deformations and other defects that may be present on the tree.

STEP 2: wood drying. First you need to clean everything from the bark and split the chock in the middle. It is desirable to withstand a couple of months at + 22-25 degrees and 15% humidity. Do not heat it or keep it damp - this will only worsen the properties of the wood after drying, besides, it can be deformed.

STEP 3: give shape to the ax handle. First, you can remove everything superfluous with a hatchet or a large knife, and all “jewelry work” is done with a chisel and a small hammer. If this is your first DIY pen and you still don't know how to make an axe, then the process will take several hours, you need to check the drawings. A more experienced person will be able to plan an ax by eye in 20-30 minutes. You should end up with something like this handle:

STEP 4: now you need to plant the ax handle and fix it. You can use gauze and epoxy - a proven option. After 2-3 days the tool is completely ready for use. To be sure, after planting the ax handle, you can hammer in a wedge - this will be more reliable.

STEP 5: polishing and varnishing. The hatchet must be processed with sandpaper and opened with anti-corrosion mixtures so that the wood is not damaged over time. Now the tool will be even more beautiful!

Now you just have to find out what sharpening is with your own hands. It is necessary to sharpen the ax handle on the machine or do it manually and you can go to test the tool. True connoisseurs can still make a leather case with their own hands. A piece of leather 30 by 30 centimeters, an awl and nylon threads is all you need. Now the tool will have a solid appearance and it will not be a shame to give it!

Details on how to make a taiga ax with your own hands can be found here:

The ax is actually a very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, then you must definitely know how to make an ax that is perfect for certain jobs. Professional master carpenters usually use several axes at once. Nevertheless, this species the tool is also necessary for people living outside the city, or just city residents who occasionally travel to their summer cottages. After all, you need to heat the bath with firewood, and you can chop them only with the help of an ax. And so that no misunderstandings arise in the process, and the tool does not let you down, you should know about all the subtleties of how to make an ax with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The ax itself can be completely different in shape. But you should properly mount the ax, wedged, and it is also necessary to sharpen at a certain angle.

The choice of the piercing part of the ax

When you are faced with a choice, in the process of acquiring a stabbing part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. There must be an inscription GOST, confirming the implementation in accordance with the norms and requirements. You should be alert if you see a sign like: OST, MRTU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, then it is better to buy it on the regular market.

One can check the quality of an ax in the old way by striking the blade of one against the blade of another. If one of the products is made of poor quality, then it is on it that the impact marks will remain. Also, if you hang the ax, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. It will be characteristic.

Pay attention to the fact that if the blade is good, there should be no dents or flaws; the eye must be cone-shaped; also, the eye and the blade must be coaxial; and also there must be at least a small thickness of the butt, and its ends must be perpendicular to the blade.

If you could not find a product that would meet all standards. Do good ax you can on your own. Even if some misunderstandings are found in the purchased product over time, they can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eyes, and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

Select a workpiece. Make an ax handle

Based on your height and strength, you should choose the length of the ax handle. The quality of the wood is also very important. For example, for lightweight products, up to one kg in weight, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms in weight, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.

Approaching the question of how to make a wooden ax should be done correctly. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. The most suitable options are the basal part of the birch, as well as its growths; maple or oak, ash and other types of wood. It is very important to dry the preparations well, and be sure to vivo and a lot of time.

You select the tool template in advance, and your template should be outlined on the workpiece. The end part of the handle should be thickened so that the master can slow down with his hand if the ax slips out. Excess wood (outside the outline) should be removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, or other similar tools. After that, you need to make sure that the actions are correct. Put the ax on the ax handle for fitting, using a mallet. Make sure these parts fit very snugly together. After that, you can proceed to further cleaning. To scrape, you should use glass, and to grind - fine-grained sandpaper. Knowing how to make an ax out of wood is half the battle. But that's not all.

"Landing" an ax on the handle

This process can be done, for example, in this way:

  • The top of the ax handle is adjusted in accordance with the eyelet. Unnecessary wood should be removed with a knife.

  • The hatchet should be placed horizontally on a flat hard surface, and the ax should be placed on top. On the handle, you need to mark with a pencil the place to which it needs to be planted. Dividing the segment in two, you should put a second mark.

  • Use a vise to clamp the ax so that the wider end is up. A hacksaw for metal should be cut to the 2nd mark directly under the wedge.

  • The wedge can be from the store, and also made from wood by hand. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the depth of cut, the width is equal to the eye of an ax.

  • You need to put a board on the table, and put an ax on it, upside down. The ax should be put on the handle, tapping it on the board. Next, turn over and knock with the handle, in the process of planting. So turn over and tap should be several times in a row. As a result, the ax should go into the eye.

  • After that, the ax handle must be placed vertically, and a wedge should be inserted into the cut and hammered with a mallet.

  • Oil should be applied to the ax handle, the excess will drain, and the tool will remain to dry. After all, with the help of a rag, it is necessary to wipe the ax and the handle.

In addition, you can watch a video on how to make an ax, with which you will be more clear about the essence of making a tool.

Ax blade sharpening

This issue is very important so that the work of the tool does not cause inconvenience and trouble. In accordance with GOST, the sharpening angle should be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening should be done at an angle of thirty-five degrees.

Upon completion of the work done with an ax, it is recommended to put a cover on the blade. Be careful!


The military organization of the Slavs took shape in the centuries-old struggle. Russian military art arose and developed, which was talked about far beyond the borders of Russia. The selection includes several types of weapons that were well wielded by the ancient Slavic warriors, who more than once won victories over the enemy.

One of the main types bladed weapons, and indeed the most common tool for war. It consisted, as a rule, of two or three steel plates welded onto an iron core. The handle consisted of a crosshair, a pommel and a rod. An interesting fact is that over the years swords have become smaller and lighter. Thus, samples dating from the 9th-10th centuries were on average 120 cm long and weighed about 2 kg. In later swords of the XI-XIII centuries, the dimensions are already smaller: about 86 cm and 1 kg of weight. Swords were expensive, because most of them were imported from the Carolingian Empire. Local production was extremely small. But almost all the handles of the brought swords were replaced with their own, local production.

Since the 10th century, a saber, a weapon borrowed from the Khazars and Magyars, has been added to swords in Russia. Basically, of course, it was used by mounted warriors, mainly in the south, southeast. Sabers began to penetrate the north of Russia in the 11th-13th centuries. Moreover, the number of surviving specimens suggests that sabers were no less popular than swords. It is also noteworthy that, unlike swords, sabers eventually became larger and heavier. At first, their length reached 1 meter, the curvature was 3-4.5 cm. In XII-XIII, the length of the sabers increased by 10-17 cm, the curvature reached 4.5-5.5 and even 7 cm. 8 cm, but sometimes reached 4.4 cm. The Slavs, who adopted the saber from the steppes, advanced its distribution further - to Western Europe. According to historians, it was the Slavic and Hungarian masters who made the legendary saber of Charlemagne, which later became the ceremonial symbol of the Roman Empire.

Perhaps the most common additional weapon, not only in Russia, but throughout ancient world. Until the 11th century, scramasaxes were used on the territory of the Old Russian state - large combat knives up to 50 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. Basically, knives used as weapons differed little from household ones. They were made by welding a steel blade onto an iron base. The handles were made in a variety of ways: from bone, from wood, from copper, they were often decorated with ornaments or wrapped with wire.

If swords and sabers are in the territory Ancient Russia In total, about two hundred copies were found, then more than 1600 axes were found, of which more than 570 were fighting, which indicates their great prevalence. And the general arsenal of used types of axes was very diverse. Battle axes, work axes, hatchets with hammers, axes with side jaws, axes with a rounded blade. They were made mainly of steel, and the average handle length was 80 cm.

This weapon, the result of southeastern influence, appeared in the Russian army around the 11th century. It was more common in the south of Russia, especially in Kyiv, than in the north. One of the earliest tops is a cube with four massive spikes arranged crosswise. Later, cubes with cut edges appeared, also with spikes, and, well, round tops with 4 large and 8 small spikes. Both cavalry and infantry were armed with maces; it was a good, convenient and versatile weapon.

A light and agile weapon that allows you to deliver a deft and sudden strike in the thick of close combat. Flails came to Russia in the 10th century, like maces, from the regions of the nomadic East. Due to its cheapness and effectiveness, the flail became widespread, both infantry and cavalry were equipped with it. Interestingly, until the 11th century, bone weights carved from elk horn were very common. Subsequently, they were supplanted by more reliable iron or bronze weights, which were sometimes provided with protrusions or even filled with lead for greater destructive effect.

The most important ranged weapon. Almost all more or less significant battles could not do without archers and began with a skirmish. Mostly high-quality composite bows were used. Usually they consisted of two shoulders attached to the handle. For archery, various arrows were used - armor-piercing, shear, incendiary and others. Their average length was 75-90 cm. They were supplied with plumage of 2 or 4 feathers.

The first information about their military use on the territory of Ancient Russia dates back to the 6th century. There was a large number of spearheads: lanceolate nib, rhombic nib with a facet on the blade, wide elongated triangular nib, bay leaf nib and many others. The last category also includes horns, these were the most massive spears, the weight of which was 700-1000 grams, while an ordinary spear weighed from 200 to 400 grams.