Even with the advent of the first long muskets, it became clear that it was very inconvenient to carry a weapon in the hands of a weapon. And then weapon belts were invented - strips of leather, which in a special way were fixed on the musket and fixed its position. Much has changed since then - the belts have become different, made of durable polymer materials and more comfortable design.

This device helps to quickly bring a machine gun, machine gun or rifle to battle. It is worth noting that sometimes a delay of even half a second can be fatal. Take, for example, airsoft, where one moment sometimes decides the outcome of the game. Therefore, a well-tuned and correctly used belt becomes a good assistant to the player.

Sometimes you have to travel long distances. Anyone who has experienced this will confirm that it is much easier to carry a weapon on a belt. After all, it can be hung on the shoulder, over the shoulder or even behind the back. At the same time, the hands remain free and do not get tired.

Varieties

These systems have long become one of the parts of hunting and sports equipment, military uniforms. Straps are attached to the weapon in one, two or three places. In accordance with this, they are divided into three types, which - below.

OP - otherwise, single-point belts

Owners of weapons of small size (up to a meter long) prefer to buy this type of belt. This simple device can be in the form of a ribbon or a loop. There are also products, the shape of which is V-shaped and Y-shaped. For attachment to weapons, they are all equipped with one carbine.

The point of attachment is the neck of the stock or the rear side of the barrel box. Less commonly, the strap is attached close to the butt plate.

After all, the suspension is not very dense, so you should try to place the suspension point higher (on the neck of the butt).

By the way, with this arrangement, the shift between the suspension point and the belt also decreases when the weapon is thrown to the other shoulder.

The looped belt is closed by a ring. It is designed to be worn around the shoulder and neck. A straight strap is a piece of sling (sometimes rope) with a carabiner at the end. It is attached to the RPS, unloading or backpack strap. A 'V' shaped strap attaches to two shoulder straps and allows you to hang the weapon behind your back. The Y-shaped belt is similar to the previous one and is equipped with an additional piece of sling (with its help, the height of the suspension can be changed).

To improve the convenience of using belts, there are additional devices:

  • So that, if necessary, it was possible to instantly disconnect (reset) the weapon, a quick release system was invented. It is implemented simply - a special buckle with three teeth is placed, which snaps into place and disconnects at high speed. It is called fastex.
  • Shock absorber - elastic band in a braid or woven case.
  • The function of quick adjustment of the length of the main part of the belt.

The main disadvantage of a belt that is attached at one point is that the weapon has to be constantly monitored. Suppose the owner of the machine runs and automatically lowers it down. He immediately begins to "revenge" - beat on the legs and torso, get confused in the legs. Crouching, you can inadvertently lower the trunk, which will bury itself in the ground, clogged with debris. To avoid such incidents, use one of these methods:

  1. On the right, where the weapon is worn (for left-handers, respectively, on the left), a collar is attached to the belt or on clothes in the abdomen with Velcro.
  2. In the same place, a guy (weapon catcher) is fixed. So you can instantly attach the weapon to the front swivel.
  3. Hunters often use the "belt holster" method. A low butt pocket made of hard material is attached to the belt. To simplify the design, the pocket can be replaced with a metal hook.

DR - otherwise, point-to-point

This is the oldest type of tactical belts. For example, the classic canvas belt for a Kalashnikov assault rifle is exactly two-point. It is hooked on two swivels.

Alas, with such a device, the weapon cannot be immediately transferred to the combat position. More or less quickly, you can open fire only if the machine gun or rifle hangs on one shoulder. But walking for such a long time is very tiring. So point-to-point models are gradually going out of use. But not always. For example, it is inconvenient for left-handed people to use the one-point option, and the three-point option closes important controls or a window where empty shells are thrown away.

Two-point harnesses have two carabiners that attach to the weapon. The front suspension of the PP is made higher on the left, but not very far ahead. Classic - fastening the rear suspension to the swivel located on the butt. This is convenient when the weapon is worn on one shoulder. However, in Lately many began to wear two-point harnesses over the shoulder. In this case, it is better to place the rear suspension high, near the butt plate (so that the machine does not turn over).

Additional features and elements:

  • Shoulder strap (hard or with soft padding) can be either removable or part of the belt. It often covers knots and loose ends.
  • Quick release is carried out by a fastex located near the rear carabiner.
  • Quick adjustment of the length of the belt is made at its front end and are designed for adjustment with one hand.
  • The ability to convert to a single point belt can be done in several ways: inserting a half ring, ring, double slot buckle.

TR - otherwise, three-point

This type of tactical belts is the most popular. Still - they are deprived of all the shortcomings of previous models and are suitable for all types of weapons. Such a belt is not only tightly fixed during the transition through the terrain, but also allows you to instantly open fire. In this case, the weapon can be easily moved to the other shoulder. And from such a belt in a jiffy, one-point or two-point is obtained.

It is very comfortable to use three-point models with a long rifle, especially if you have to go with it for a long time.

However, the guide sling does not allow the use of three-point harnesses with some types of weapons. For example, owners of pump-action shotguns cannot use them, since it is inconvenient to distort the forend with them due to the presence of a sling. The sling also interferes with left-handed people.

A feature of these models is the presence of a third attachment point for the belt to the weapon. Its position may vary (relative to the front and rear swivel):

  • It can be rigidly fixed with a fastex in front - then when the fastex is opened, it will reset to the rear position.
  • Or this point is slightly fixed in the middle, in the most convenient place. It can be changed.

As for additional elements and devices, this type of belts usually lacks them - it is already convenient. The only thing that is available on almost all models is the quick reset function.

They are used to protect fingers from possible pinching by mechanisms, as well as from the appearance of corns. Among other things, they are able to provide the most reliable and comfortable grip.

The principle of operation of an airsoft smoke grenade, composition, design and application can be found. An overview of all types of airsoft grenades.

Tactical belts Duty - Russian invention

Vladimir Kharlampov, who is one of the founders of Tactical Solutions, has developed a reliable system for carrying weapons. He named his three-point tactical belt "Duty". Note that both models of our review (Debt M2 and Debt M3) are patented.

Debt M2

This belt is used in conjunction with machine guns, and smoothbore weapons semi-automatic type. It is fundamentally different from the classic three-point belts - because it does not have a sling. Instead, there are two parts: a pull-up band and a main girth, connected in a ring and enclosing the shooter's body. It has a three-slot buckle - a pull-up tape passes through it, attached to the front swivel. The end of the ribbon protruding from the buckle serves to move the suspension point.

A detailed video review of the capabilities and installation of the tactical weapon belt Duty M2 from the creator himself:

There are two positions for carrying weapons: under the arm and on the chest. The belt sits like a glove, and the weapon does not move anywhere. That's just the tape from the buckle hanging down, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. And some users complain that it clings to branches and other objects. And one more thing: the loop of the main girth is made of two parts connected by a fastex (for quick release). This detail, coupled with several double-slit buckles, is behind and does not allow you to wear a belt behind your back - it is inconvenient.

However, these shortcomings are not so significant. But this system gives the owner of the weapon complete freedom and comfort, and the speed of all actions is simply impressive. However, there is an even more "advanced" model from the same manufacturer.

Debt M3

This is the same three-point belt, only improved. All the advantages of the previous model remained, but the developer decided to eliminate the shortcomings. Judging by the reviews, he did well. The scope of the M3 Debt model is very extensive. It can be worn with smoothbore and pump-action weapons, submachine guns, machine guns, grenade launchers, machine guns.

The video shows the use of the tactical belt Duty M3 on different types weapons:

Features of the Debt M3 model and its differences from the Debt M2 model:

  1. Slightly changing the design of the main belt part, V. Kharlampov made his product universal. Now it can easily be converted into an adjustable two-point or biathlon (worn on the back) harness.
  2. A soft wide shoulder strap appeared, which can be quickly removed and put on.
  3. The number of double-slotted buckles has been significantly reduced.
  4. The standard set includes a low-noise lining, as well as a “Riga” carbine.

The most common fault is the inability to carry weapons. Incorrect wearing does not allow you to quickly make a machine gun for battle, in case of acute situations. In combat, even fractions of a second matter. In the Chechen campaign, more than once or twice there were cases when soldiers, and even officers with standard weapons, were not ready for sudden encounters with the enemy. They simply did not have time to use their weapons.

Meanwhile, there are several good ways carrying regular weapons, although not prescribed in general military regulations. The main thing that unites them is that the weapon is located conveniently, while the hands remain free. And these methods allow you to quickly make a machine gun for battle and open fire on the enemy.

The first way: wearing a machine gun on the chest. The belt is thrown over the neck, the machine hangs with the barrel down. This position of the machine does not interfere with hand-to-hand combat, it makes it possible to strike both with legs and with hands. It allows you to grab, fall and roll. Naturally, weapons can be quickly made for battle. In addition, the machine gun can block enemy attacks and inflict strong blows butt. The gun belt of the machine gun is released strongly so that the butt is slightly below the right shoulder. In the cinema, this method is shown in the film "In the Zone special attention"during the paratrooper march.

The second way. Wearing a machine gun on the left shoulder. An old partisan and hunting way of carrying weapons. But in order for the machine to not slip, it is necessary to properly fit the weapon belt. With this method, weapons are quickly made for battle, but in hand-to-hand combat, this position of the machine gun is only a hindrance. The machine will have to be thrown off the shoulder to the ground.

The third way. When carrying out guard and guard duty. Sooner or later, the partisans will still take control of the territory or join the regular army. We will have to fulfill the duties that are now being performed by military personnel and policemen at checkpoints, checkpoints, and traffic police posts. Group "special forces tactics" And the nature of the service at these facilities is specific. Being at the post for a long time, and hands should be free - to check documents, give signals, search people, check cars. Weapons must be carried in such a way that they can be quickly used, and at the same time, testees must not be able to block them. You can often see how the guards of the traffic police (during the events under the plans "Siren", "Interception", etc.) carry a machine gun on their right side. But from this position, the machine gun cannot be thrown up to the shoulder and aimed shooting - the fire is fired from the waist and aimlessly. Well, there is nothing to say about winter conditions. In a sheepskin coat, a sentry wears a machine gun or a weight on the side, no difference.

For a more convenient location of the machine, you need to unhook the belt from the receiver swivel and hook its carbine on the butt swivel, forming a loop. This loop adjusts to fit and is worn over the shoulder and back. The machine gun with a retracted butt is located under the right shoulder and is easily raised with one hand. When checking, it is better to expose left leg forward half a step, turning the case with the left side forward so that the machine gun was the most distant from the tested, and they could not grab it.

The record was made based on the results and observations from classes during a business trip to the Belgorod region. First of all, for myself, so as not to forget.


"Want to play around with the AK a little?.. Not a problem, but for God's sake - be careful... and wear gloves."- The thought that was spinning in my head after one of the training sessions.

BELT:
Even a regular two-point belt can be operated normally and used effectively.
The first thing to do immediately is to dissolve the belt to the maximum length. It would be nice if the carabiner on the belt was not very rigid, so that it could be detached from the front swivel with bare hands without mats and grunts. This allows you to quickly move the belt from a two-point position to a one-point position and vice versa.
Definitely correct, or rather, there is no convenient way to wear a belt. Each has its pros and cons.

Two-point fastening, wearing around the neck:
+ The weight of the assault rifle is more evenly transferred to the body, especially if you move the belt a little further on the scruff and shoulders.
+ Allows you to quickly move the machine to the "behind your back" position, which frees your hands as much as possible, the machine does not dangle in the working area. It just takes a little ingenuity.
- With some methods of recharging, the belt gets in the way, because. runs along the receiver.
- Hanging on the chest makes it difficult to access the equipment, when it is placed on the chest.
- Still, it takes more time to free your hands for any manipulations - once you release the machine, it will hang right in front of your nose and interfere.
= This way of wearing is most convenient for long patrols and moving in open areas, in natural landscapes. The main thing is to at least hold the machine all the time, and when jumping, press it to yourself with your hand (if you need to make a second wave), otherwise the receiver cover will boldly kiss your chin and teeth.

Single point attachment, shoulder strap:
+ The machine weighs compactly along the body, without interfering with any actions while standing.
+ The belt does not interfere with any manipulations with the machine gun and equipment, because located in the butt area.
+ You can quickly free your hands - just let go of the machine and be sure that it will not encroach on the integrity of your face during a sudden movement.
- The entire weight of the machine falls on one shoulder, which starts to whine after a couple of hours.
- AK-74 is not the shortest assault rifle, so even with an average height of 180 cm, the barrel strives to collect all the rubbish that grows from the ground and rolls on it.
- It is almost impossible to throw the machine gun behind your back in order to free up a working space for yourself - you bend down and it hangs down in front of your nose.
= The best option, if the main position of the body is standing, if there are buildings around and there is little room for maneuver, if you need to quickly free your hands for any action (for a short time).

The worst thing that can come to mind is to wear a machine gun with a deflated belt hanging from two swivels. It will interfere with any manipulations with weapons, it will cling to vegetation and, in general, to everything that surrounds you. Of course, you can pull the belt on the butt and just carry the machine gun in your hands, but then you need to be ready to catch it from the bushes or ditch when you stumble on something at full speed and sprawl on the ground, or when you land from a hovering in a couple of meters above the ground, the helicopter will go a little off plan. The belt allows you to control the weapon and keep it always on you.

MANUFACTURING:
By by and large it doesn’t matter how to hold the machine gun - for the forearm or for the store. The second is more convenient for me, although it probably depends on the length of the arms. The advantage of this option is that during any manipulations with the store there is no need to move the left hand from the fore-end to the store and back - the hand rests on it all the time anyway. Less body movements - it's easier to build muscle memory. But there is a caveat: when using an underbarrel grenade launcher with a machine gun, the center of gravity of the entire system shifts strongly forward and the grip on the magazine becomes uncomfortable - the front part becomes very inert. In this case, it is worth holding either the barrel of the grenade launcher or its handle, using it as a kind of front tactical handle.

The "classic" stance that is taught in the VS, when you stand sideways to the target, does not fit well with modern SIBZ. When wearing body armor 6B23, it is very problematic to securely rest the butt of the machine gun on the shoulder, although some succeed and are even so comfortable for them. Perhaps it depends on the physique. As an option, they use a trick: the front part of the bulletproof vest collar is turned inward, it is slightly relaxed in the shoulders so that the collar is wider and the butt rests on the bare shoulder under the bulletproof vest, as if tucking the butt under the bulletproof vest. In my opinion, these are all perversions. My choice is the frontal stance, the main thing is to get a clear hit of the butt on the shoulder of the bulletproof vest during manufacture and everything falls into place.

BALANCE:
Standard AK-74M without add. equipment has a center of gravity somewhere directly in front of the store or in its area when the store is equipped. Despite the fact that it is, in fact, a full-size assault rifle its dimensions do not interfere with normal work with it both in the forest and in buildings. Yes - not short, but maneuverable and has an adequate weight. Not AKS-74U, of course, but these are different "weight categories". It would be interesting to try the AK-105 carbine, but there is no possibility. When installing both the 1P29 day sight and the 1PN93 night sight, the balance shifts absolutely non-critically. I think that when light-weight collimator sights, such as Aimpoint Micro T-1 and the like, are installed on a gas tube, the situation will not change.

The most unpleasant thing begins when you install the GP-25 underbarrel grenade launcher on the machine. 1.5kg of steel on the barrel behind the forearm quickly brings the balance of an assault rifle closer to the balance of a single machine gun - the front of the machine gun becomes overweight. Maybe, of course, the hands are rather weak, but from a standing position, without emphasis, it becomes problematic to conduct aimed fire - the left hand gets tired quickly and the barrel starts to walk, so with the GP I got used to immediately being made for shooting from the knee. In this case, the hand on the grenade launcher rests with the elbow on the knee of the left leg and the "construction" turns out to be noticeably more stable.

ERGONOMICS:
Domestic weapons are generally not for the faint of heart, pregnant women and children, and its ergonomics are definitely not for the faint-hearted.

If you adhere to the idea that the right hand is always on the pistol grip, and all manipulations are done with the left, then you need to be ready to show all your "sleight of hand and no cheating." Fortunately, the location of the controls allows you to retract in this matter to the fullest.

Shutter cocking. Someone pulls on the bolt handle, passing his hand over the top of the machine over the receiver cover, someone from below - behind the magazine. The second option is more practical: firstly, there are fewer unnecessary hand movements, and secondly, which is no less important, the hand does not block the view, and with some skill this operation can be done without looking away from the direction of fire, thereby constantly observing the target.

Maybe, of course, I’m completely wrong, but if you need to always be ready to open fire from an AK, then the surest way is to send a cartridge into the chamber and not put the machine on the fuse at all. The question arises about security measures, especially if there are civilians around, and indeed - how to insure yourself against an accidental shot. The answer is simple: you need to be careful and use the contents of the head for its intended purpose. In general, one of the Delta Guy of all famous movie"Black Hawk Down" clearly showed how this can be achieved. Although someone will say that this is "not an option" and they will be right.

What is the problem?
Travis Haley in his video Pro Tip: Kalash Safety conveys the idea that even with the ergonomics of the AK, you can constantly operate the safety catch, keeping the machine gun ready to fire only immediately before the shot itself, which is undoubtedly a noble undertaking. But the AK wouldn't be an AK if it wasn't a Russian weapon. Your AK can be either a broken-down piece of steel that tries to figure it out on its own during shooting, or it can be tightly knocked down to such an extent that it will take considerable effort to remove it from the safety lock. Personally, I have the second option. Hayley deftly sets the safety to the "fire" position, but this technique may not work with every AK. What to do? Of course, you can remember, and it’s better not to forget, that the AK is a domestic model of weapons, and feel free to apply pliers and other plumbing tools to it and make it so that the translator himself will crawl away into a single fire, you just have to shake your machine gun, but I don’t fan of these methods. Better - tougher, my choice.

There are not many options left: either keep the machine gun off the safety lock, but without a cartridge in the chamber, or vice versa - send the cartridge and put the weapon on the safety lock. The first option is my choice. The bottom line is that cocking the bolt carrier is an order of magnitude easier and faster than switching the fuse through one position (do not forget that the AK-74M first fires automatically, and then a single one). It's hard to believe, but it's true - I checked it on purpose. I'm talking about the case when the fuse is tight, and this is not uncommon. Otherwise, the opposite is true.

If the situation is such that the machine is on the fuse and this is without options, then there is no point in keeping your right hand on the pistol grip. The hand should be slightly moved forward along the receiver, so that with the very first movement you can remove the weapon from the safety, otherwise all subsequent manipulations (making, aiming, etc.) will be meaningless.

Regardless of anything and no matter what the circumstances - always wear gloves to class. Not necessarily some cool tactical ones - absolutely any, even inexpensive fleece ones from the nearest Splav store will do ... and at least workers from the local market. AK is replete with sharp edges and protrusions, so when developing skills "for speed", in order not to think about how not to chop your hands into small cabbage, it is extremely important to wear at least some kind of protective gloves. At one of the training sessions, I broke my left hand against the controls, so much so that it healed for another week, and during this time I could not train normally. The main thing is attentiveness and accuracy ... and gloves.

I made a short video during the course. All details in the description.

As far as possible, we need to work further in this direction, study and analyze.


Good day to all.

The idea was born to write an extensive series of articles “about everything”. I want to say right away that these articles do not claim to be the ultimate truth. Everything is individual, only what is most acceptable for me is collected and presented here.
One more caveat - everything that is described here is not my personal experience. Something has been read somewhere, checked and used, comrades have taught something, something is really the product of one's own reflections, trial and error. The latter will not stand apart, but will be served along with all the items.
Why am I doing this?
So that everyone who needs information on relevant topics can quickly and easily find it in one place.
Not everyone has comrades in power structures who can tell and tell what they are taught (and not everything can be told), so the main source of knowledge is the Internet. Personally, I don’t think it’s shameful, because on the Internet it often turns out to be from primary sources, from some books, etc., however, you shouldn’t think that after reading articles and watching videos from the network, you will become cooler than any eggs.
However, due to the well-known events that happened to our aircraft in the 90s, the literature available to the general public is very old, written back in the USSR. It is not wrong, but many of the things described and stated there have outlived their usefulness many years ago.
I hope that this cycle will be useful to someone.

You can talk about weapons endlessly.
Serious units choose it for the task, additional equipment is also selected for the task, but we are not cool, if any assault rifle is in our hands, then most likely it will be AK.
First you need to clearly understand that in addition to the AK, it is ideal to have a gun and, of course, a knife, but these are separate items.

Kalashnikov assault rifle.

Generally speaking, this is a reliable weapon with lame accuracy and disgusting ergonomics. Cheap, with a decent weight, angular, rough, requiring a certain skill and skills for quick and effective use.
In modern conditions, shoals are eliminated by acquiring the so-called. “body kit”, but this is money and additional weight, again, not everyone is comfortable.
Despite all these disadvantages, AK has become quite convenient and practical for me.

Safety Engineering (TB).

A sore subject, despite the fact that everything is simple.
As soon as you decide that you will master any weapon (and it doesn’t matter if it’s pneumatics or combat), then you need to learn TB ironically.

The main points that I would highlight:
1. ALWAYS treat the firearm as if it were loaded.
2. NEVER point your gun where you don't intend to shoot.
3. NEVER put your finger on the trigger until you have clearly decided to shoot.
4. ALWAYS double check the unloaded weapon.
5. I don’t see - I don’t shoot.
6. There should be glasses on the eyes.
7. This item is separate, especially for AK. GLOVES. They are categorically necessary when working with him. Fingers are sometimes torn to blood on the sharp edges of the legendary machine gun.

How to wear and hold.

There are a lot of options here. We considered that it is optimal to hold the machine gun with your left hand closer to the barrel cut (within reasonable limits, you don’t need to grab the barrel), because this reduces the inertia when turning the barrel and the weapon more sharply and clearly becomes on the target.
The right hand NEVER (I think everyone understands that you don’t need to stick it there) is not removed from the pistol grip. To do this, all devices, devices (PTT button, hydrator hose, helmet lamp, etc.) must be attached under the left hand.
The butt is placed closer to the collarbone.
You can not "fold" and "press" into the weapon, as this deprives mobility.

Elbows should not be set aside, but also pressed into the body, for the same reason of deprivation of mobility.

The barrel of the gun is ALWAYS facing the same direction as the shooter. It should not be that you look to the right, and the barrel to the left.

Carrying options should be divided into several sections, according to situations.

1. Marching (marching) position.

This is not a statutory way of carrying on the right shoulder. It generally makes sense to forget about it.

The weapon is worn on the chest, in the zone of maximum reach, but at the same time comfortable.
MUST be on safety. The finger is either along the receiver or under the trigger.
If you have a simple two-point belt, then you need to stretch it so that the butt of the machine is under the shoulder. This will allow you to quickly raise the weapon.

One more condition is obligatory: when putting on an automatic belt, you need to put it in LEFT hand, and not the right one (as is usually done). Try both options. Try to throw up a weapon from them - the difference is obvious.

Right:


Not properly:

If you walk for a long time, then sooner or later your neck and shoulder begin to ache. We are not terminators, so I want to talk about a method that will help make life easier without losing combat capability.
We put the machine gun on the fold of the left hand. With the right hand, we support the machine from below, under the store, putting thumb to the fuse. The butt is placed on the fold of the right hand.
Thus, a stable mobile structure is obtained, which allows you to unload the neck and shoulders, but at the same time leave the weapon in the zone of maximum access.
The presence of large straight front handles can interfere with this method, but you can adapt if you wish (I managed to).

IN NO EVENT should you put an automatic magazine behind the RPS belt (this is not a pun, such individuals are real).

2. Combat ready position.
Let's call it this way.
Situation in which it is used:
You are in the zone of a probable meeting with the enemy, but on this moment you don't see him.
Again, we are not terminators, and we cannot constantly keep our weapons tossed to our shoulders, as in cool action movies. Yes, and there is little point in this, only the muscles get tired.

Therefore, I propose the following:
The machine is off the safety, the finger is under the trigger, or on the receiver.
The butt is clamped in the right axillary region.
The left hand is in a comfortable, predetermined position on the fore-end.
Thus, a comfortable position is achieved, from which it will not be difficult to bring the weapon into a state of combat readiness.

3. Combat position.

The situation in which it is used is obvious: direct contact with the enemy, or its maximum probability, visual contact.
The fuse is off, the finger is on the trigger.
Then there are two options.

- The most common (we use it).

The butt is at the shoulder, but the barrel is slightly lowered down. This is done in order to provide the maximum viewing angle without blocking it. lower part barrel of a weapon.
From a straight line corresponding to the aiming line, the barrel must be lowered by 30-45 degrees.

- Israeli version (used mainly in urban areas).
The bottom line here is that you need to have the skill of shooting from the hip and, if possible, a strong wrist.
Weapons are held right hand below, directed in the same direction as the gaze.
The left hand remains free and serves to dampen speed during sudden runs, for insurance in case of falls, etc. (sorry for the terrible grimace under the balclave, there was a strong wind).

This option exists and is widely used. Usually it is he who is given in the courses of fleeting combat in private companies.

Aiming.

Here, it would seem, everyone knows everything. Combine the rear sight and the front sight and stuff like that. However, there are cases when soldiers shoot at the front sight, ignoring the rear sight, and hit the bullet catcher, located at a decent height above the ground.
I don’t see the point in talking about such things here (read in the simplest shooting instructions), but I’ll point out one important “trifle”.
Learn to aim with both eyes with conventional mechanical sights. At first it seems impossible, but over time, if desired, it will turn out to be simple and familiar.
First, aim with one eye, start opening the other, leaving the rear sight in focus. Then keep both open.
Gradually move on to more complex - aim with both eyes at once.
This is necessary in order not to lose peripheral vision and see what is happening from the side, outside the aiming line.

Belts.

At the moment, there are a lot of weapon belts. They are all different, made for different situations, operating conditions. Some even claim to be universal, but there is a saying in our group: "The universal is the enemy of the special." And at the moment it justifies itself by 200%.
I had to use different belts, the domestic belt “Debt M2” turned out to be the best for me.

Separately, I want to say about the rear swivel on the AK. On the modern models it is on the right so that the butt can be folded. If you do not have to parachute, take it off and change it to a soft swivel made of a sling and a metal semi-ring, setting it so that the ring is on the left (where the front swivel is).

There are also swivels that are installed between the pistol grip and the receiver. So you fold the butt, and the belt will be on the left. But it's more expensive.

Single point harness.
In the same category, I include safety belts built into bulletproof vests.
These are the simplest belts that allow you to keep your weapon MAXIMUM ready for battle. They are easy to handle, the weapon is always on the chest, it is easy to change to a pistol.
In my opinion, there is no better one-point in the city, but at the crossroads it will only be difficult.
Three-point harnesses CANNOT fully replace a single-point harness.

Two point harness.
The oldest, classic, but still in use.
Everyone is familiar with the Soviet AK canvas belt. Despite all its wretchedness, I like it. Having straight arms can make it very usable.
What did I change in mine?
- Removed the front carabiner (this is probably the main drawback of the belt. They are very hard and make a lot of noise), replacing it with paracord.
- I wrapped all the metal fittings with electrical tape to avoid unnecessary noise.
- In addition, I put elastic bands on the metal fittings (the same ones under which the excess slings on the equipment are removed), all with the same purpose to remove noise.
Once again, I remind you how to adjust the two-point belt:
The stock should be under the shoulder.
This type of belt is convenient to use on long weapons (machine guns, sniper rifles, etc.).

Three point harness.

It seems to me that now they are considered almost a panacea and the height of universality.
Due to the variable length, several positions are combined in one belt: marching, combat, patrol, they also allow you to carry weapons “in biathlon”. It's practical and convenient. My "Debt M2" is undoubtedly a very good belt. The soft shoulder strap on it allows you to negate the fatigue of the neck and shoulders. A very successful model. However, all the same, it will not provide the same ease of handling weapons as a single point.

Such belts are optimal for rough terrain, not bad in the city. They can be considered universal, but with some stretch.

Fuse.

The fuse is a sore subject for AK. It is far away, it is sharp, it happens that it is very tight.
There are many ways to remove the AK from the fuse.
We tried many and chose the most suitable:

1. On the hand holding the pistol grip, the fingers are unbent.
2. The wrist is carried forward and up.
3. With the middle finger, the fuse is pulled down.



When I showed this method to different people, they told me that someone had too short fingers, or a very tight fuse. All this is nonsense. There are people in our group, a little over half a meter tall, with rather small hands - everyone succeeds.
A tight fuse is also not a hindrance (with the proviso of having gloves on your hands). More recently, we got a new AKSU with a VERY tight fuse. Nothing, it's removed, you just need to make more effort.

Recharge.

And again a sore subject.
The reset button is far away, the magazines are curved, with a lot of protruding parts, which causes problems with the magazine getting stuck inside the pouch.
Here again, there are a lot of options. They can be divided into 2 types, but before that you need to voice the main condition:
It is NECESSARY to minimize the period of time when the weapon is unloaded.
This is achieved by the fact that you first need to get a full store, and not unfasten an empty one. After all, if you first get a full one, make a replacement, and at that moment a target appears, then it will not be difficult to throw an empty store and open fire.
If you first climb for the full one, unfastening the empty one, and at that moment, according to the law of meanness, a threat appears, then there will be nothing to throw, and an unpleasant situation will arise.
Unfortunately, AK is missing shutter lag, so every time you have to juggle the shutter. There is a trick to avoid this:
Loading the last 3 tracer cartridges into the magazine. I saw the tracer - reloaded. The cartridge is in the chamber, it is not necessary to distort the shutter.
You can, of course, count the shots, but this is not always possible for obvious reasons.
It also makes sense to go down to the lower level, so as not to stand as a good growth target with an empty weapon, while you MUST follow the dangerous direction. You can't look at the weapon.

So, the types of recharge:

- With the loss of the shot store.

Everything is simple here:
They took out a full one, knocked out an empty one, fastened it, pulled the shutter.

- With the preservation of the shot store.

This is somewhat more complicated, the method is slower, but the waste of materiel is the lot of Hollywood action movies.

As already mentioned, the main principle is to first get a full store.

Step by step:

1. Go down.
2. Get a full magazine, bring it to an empty one.
3. Grab both magazines, replace.
4. Distort the shutter (if necessary).
5. Remove the empty magazine.






Body kit.
Everyone's favorite topic.
Everyone wants to make their weapons “cooler”, but not everyone understands that this does not always make sense.
It’s worth starting with the fact that before purchasing additional equipment, you need to learn how to work with a “bare” machine. It is possible that it will turn out to be absolutely unnecessary for you, and you will save your wallet.
If you have already come to the conclusion that your AK could do with something else, then read on.

forearm.

Initially, the AK has a simple, plastic (or wooden, depending on the model) handguard without any hint of picatinny rails.
There are VERY many models, they are all different in price, in ergonomics, so it’s quite difficult to choose.
I believe that any stray that you decide to put on an AK should be MAXIMUM light, because the machine itself is quite weighty.
Therefore, preference should be given to plastic (for example, MVRI), or metal lightened with cutouts and holes.
The main thing you really need on the forearm is the bottom bar to install the front handle. Side straps do not have to have the entire length of the forearm. Small areas are enough, which are enough to install a flashlight, face, etc. The already mentioned MVRI handguard fully meets these requirements.

Butts.

The standard AK stock is quite narrow and short, which is a problem, but only in the beginning and not for everyone. It’s better to keep silent about AK skeletal butts with “C” indices.
I have used a telescopic stock on an AK. It is really very convenient and practical, but on the other hand it seriously makes it heavier. My choice was made in favor of lightness.
If you decide to purchase a stock, then take a wide one with a soft butt pad, with a comfortable cheek, plastic. I like the Magpul stock.

Front handles.

At the moment, the handles are placed more so that there is an emphasis that will help you quickly find a comfortable hand position on the forearm. AK is not Tommy-gun, and we are not brave mafia guys to shoot from the hip, holding the vertical handle.
There is a serious problem that limits the choice of grip for those who put it quite close to the magazine (it is especially noticeable on 7.62 caliber AKs). Due to the bend of the magazine, when reloading, it sticks into the handle and, as a result, there is a delay. Therefore, short, compact handles should be chosen. I like the company's products Magpul, Zenith

There are a lot of handles with built-in bipods. I had to use the American one, in which they are fired from below. I didn’t understand the meaning of such crap on AK. But again, to each his own.

Separately, I want to put an inclined handle Magpul. Some time later, after trying a few absolutely different options, I settled on it. For me personally, this is the most convenient of all the models that I had to use. The machine with it becomes very practical and convenient.

Pistol grips.
The standard grip on the AK is very narrow and uncomfortable (in my opinion).
Therefore, it is advisable to replace it with a more convenient and wider one.
I'm against anatomical finger grips because if you buy one online, you can't be 100% sure it will fit your hand.
It is best to buy plastic handles, with a notch, or with a rubber coating.

Lanterns.
A flashlight is definitely a must. But not always, so this option did not take root for me. I set it quite rarely, only in urban conditions, or at night on patrol.
The main requirement for a flashlight for me is the length. It should not be huge, extending beyond the forearm.
The remote control button mounted on the pistol grip under the thumb will not be superfluous - it’s convenient.
It is necessary that the flashlight has a strobe function. It is very useful indoors, dazzles at times.
I don’t see much point in talking about power, here everyone decides for himself, but personally 1100 lumens are enough for me.
The focus change is also a very useful feature.

DTK, mufflers.
There are DTKs that reduce the recoil of a shot to nothing. Unfortunately, you have to look for such a trial and error method, something different suits everyone (for example, people are known who are satisfied with DTK CSN, but at 7.62 it turned out to be nasty for us).

Silencers are necessary for head patrols. Often these are PBSs at 7.62.

Underbarrel grenade launchers.
In the RG, the phenomenon is frequent, the fire capabilities are seriously increased, but the machine experiences serious loads during use and, as a result, “breaks”.

Sights.
On rough terrain, in my opinion, only sights with magnification make sense. This is either a domestic “Thread” collimator, or some other samples (for example ACOG) . Holographic sights with a magnifer are heavy, cumbersome.
In urban conditions, in conditions of fleeting combat, holographic sights are good helpers, because they allow you to quickly aim with both eyes, without any training.
In my opinion, open sights are the best (the most common are Eotech ).
Night sights are, of course, an essential item.

"Crisis Pouch".
This is the name of the pouch, located on the butt of the machine. It serves to accommodate an additional store, or some additional equipment (for example, an extra IPP).
I had to use such a device, I did not experience much enthusiasm, although they say that it does not interfere at all.

Other little things.

Shutter levers.
The standard bolt lever on an AK can be awkward, but there are plenty of attachments that solve this problem.

Store managers.
There is a place to be, but in my opinion an absolutely useless thing.

Fuse pads that allow you to quickly, with your index finger, remove the AK from the fuse.

PHOTO
Overlays for the store reset button.

Anti-mud pads for picatinny rails.
If left free place better close it with these wonderful knick-knacks. They are cheap, but the benefits are obvious.

This completes the first part of my cycle.
Questions can be written in the comments, in a personal VK.

1. On the left shoulder - this is the old hunting method. To prevent the machine from slipping, it is necessary to properly fit the weapon belt. This method allows you to quickly prepare for battle, but if the enemy is close and hand-to-hand combat is ahead, this position of the weapon interferes. In this case, you should drop the belt from your shoulder and drop the machine to the ground.

2. On the chest - the belt is thrown over the neck, the machine hangs with the barrel down. This method is more convenient, allows you to quickly prepare for battle. This position of the machine does not interfere in hand-to-hand combat, it makes it possible to freely strike with hands and feet, fight in the grip, fall and roll.

In addition, the machine gun can block enemy blows and deliver strong blows with the butt and magazine with a sharp blow forward to the head area. With this method of carrying the machine gun, the weapon belt should be released quite strongly like this. so that the butt is slightly below the right shoulder and to be able, if necessary, to quickly drop the machine from the neck.




3. When making a march on armored vehicles, the landing, as a rule, is located on top of the armor. Usually paratroopers sit with one foot down in an open hatch. the other is held on top of the armor. From this position it is easy to "go" down into the hatch. if shelling starts, and it is easy to jump from the car to the ground if the car is blown up by a mine or hit anti-tank grenade. At the same time, the weapon is usually held in the hands, and - the machine gun greatly interferes with diving into the hatch. and is also easily lost if paratroopers are thrown off their armor by an explosion or sudden braking. To prevent this from happening, you should loosen the weapon belt and put it over your head, the machine gun is located on the body with the barrel up. At the same time, the machine is quite conveniently located, does not interfere with jumping from the car and quickly aims at the target.

4. Both military personnel and police officers often have to serve at roadblocks, checkpoints (checkpoints), road posts. The nature of the service at these facilities requires a long stay on duty, while it is necessary to have free hands to give signals for checking documents, inspecting cars and searching people. The weapon must be in a position that allows it to be used quickly, and at the same time, the people being checked must not be able to block the use of the weapon. Usually, traffic police officers have a machine gun on their right side. Machine guns from this position cannot be thrown to the shoulder, you can only shoot from the waist and not aim.

And if the sentry is dressed in winter clothes, then the machine gun becomes an extra weight that hinders movement. For a more convenient location of the machine, you should unhook the strap from the receiver swivel and hook its carbine on the butt swivel to form a loop. This loop adjusts to fit and is worn over the shoulder and back. The machine gun with a retracted butt is located under the right shoulder, it is easily thrown up with one hand. When checking, I recommend putting your left foot forward half a step, turning the body with the left side forward so that the machine gun is the most distant from the tested, and they could not grab it.