After reading a bunch of spam on the topic “Which is better - crop or full frame”, I decided to try to understand this issue.

To begin with, let's recall the main provisions (we have already talked a little about).

The crop factor changes the field of view without changing the focal length. Exactly the same results can be obtained when shooting full frame and then cropping the edges of the frame. This also means that when using a crop factor camera perspectivedoes not change. You can do this experiment: look with one eye into the viewfinder of a camera with a 50mm lens, and with the other - at the same scene without a camera. You will see that the angle of view will be the same. Regardless of whether you have a full-frame sensor or a crop.

But, if the number of pixels is the same, then it will seem that the focal length has just changed by the value of the crop factor. See? The scene remained the same, the angle of view did not change, but the picture turned out to be, as it were, cut out of a larger one. Hence the feeling of changing the focal length of the lens. Stopping for a second and thinking, even re-reading the above and checking with your feelings, you will understand that all this is true. The focal length of the lens has not changed. Only the scope of its use has changed. Of the entire area covered by it, we have chosen only the middle.

Now let's think: what do we get from this? What is the strength, brother, and what will you have to put up with?

Firstly, when using a device with a crop matrix, a more efficient use of long-focus optics is possible. After all, the entire line of interchangeable lenses is shifting to a longer area - instead of 85mm (on film and a full-frame matrix this is a good portrait lens), we get 85 * 1.5 = 130mm. And this is a decent TV. And from 200mm you get 300! Free! Here is some very good news for hunters and sports reporters. The other side of the coin is a wash out of the line of wide-angle lenses. Judge for yourself - 24mm turns into 36, and 20 - into 30. In film times, a 20mm lens completed the line of wide-angle optics and was an object of sighing for an army of professionals. And having turned into 30, it became an ordinary budget glass. Here is the conclusion for lovers of landscape and architectural photography - it is better to be friends with full-frame equipment and get good old film lenses out of closets.

Secondly. As you know, the quality of the lens changes from the center to the periphery (for the worse). If you stumble upon lens resolution data somewhere in the literature, you will see that it is measured as the ratio of the number of lines per millimeter in the center to the number of lines per millimeter at the periphery. Therefore, using a full-size lens with a cropped sensor, we win in terms of lens quality, since only the central, higher quality area is taken into account.

Manufacturers of photographic equipment, simultaneously with the start of production of devices, began the production of entire lines of special lenses designed specifically for such devices. It is clear that these lenses are backwards incompatible with full-frame counterparts, if only because of the strong . In addition, for example, Canon, in their devices, also applied the technical incompatibility of lenses from bottom to top.

Here are the names of the series of digital lens lines from leading manufacturers:

  • Canon— EF-S
  • Nikon— dx
  • Sony— DT
  • Pentax— DA
  • Sigma— DC
  • Tamron— Di II

Now here's something else. Let's take two devices - one with a full-frame matrix, the other with a cropped one. We will put a 50 / 1.4 lens on a full-frame device, and on a device with a crop matrix - to get the same fields images - 35 / 1.4. The image area will be the same, but what will happen to ? Remember, we found out that, all other things being equal, the depth of field will be less at the lens with more focal length. This means that in order to get the same pictures, the aperture of the 50 / 1.4 lens will have to be covered. The difference will be even more significant when using, for example, a pair of 85mm versus 135mm. But how much? I managed to find such data in an article on choosing a normal lens for a full-frame device. The article, however, is dated 2010, but for understanding the essence of the process, I think this is not particularly important. (Of course, simple calculations can be easily carried out, but in the picture it looks much more spectacular).

See what's the difference? Conclusion - with the same image field (for example, when shooting a portrait) and using a full-frame sensor and a lens for it, we will get a smaller depth of field. On the other hand, when using a cropped matrix, the depth of field increases, which cannot but rejoice when shooting, for example, a landscape.

Another very important advantage of a full-frame device is its increased . Moreover, the difference is so significant that for the sake of this fact alone, many professionals switch to full frame.

dry residue.

Pluses of a full-frame matrix (Full Frame - FF).

  • Matrix, and therefore a wide range of sensitivity, and, consequently, a wider range of possibilities for using the camera;
  • As a result of belonging to an expensive class - a rich harness: a metal case, two flash drives, a large bright viewfinder, a shutter designed for a million clicks and other premium goodies;
  • Smaller depth of field (not the fact that this is always a plus).

Minuses.

These devices have only one minus - the price as a reflection of belonging to an expensive class, because the matrix is ​​​​the most expensive part of the device.

Advantages of a crop sensor camera

  • Shift the focal length of the entire line of lenses to a "longer" area. It becomes a plus for photo hunting and sports reporting;
  • The ability to use old film and modern full-frame optics (taking into account the crop factor, and almost certainly - in manual mode, which, by the way, is not always a drawback. For example, if autofocus does not work in video mode, then film fast fixes in this case - the best choice);
  • Large depth of field (maybe a minus).

Minuses

  • Shift the focal length of the entire line of lenses to a "longer" area. The downside is for shooting landscape and architecture. Truly wide-angle lenses are digital only.

That's all. The final choice, as always, is yours. I sincerely hope I didn't confuse you even more. If so, welcome to the comments.

This question worries a considerable number of amateur photographers who are looking for their "next" camera instead of an inexpensive amateur model, on which they comprehended the basics of photography and from which they grew up. At the same time, I really want that, in addition to the growth of megapixels, the new device will have some fundamentally new features that will allow you to rise to the next level in creativity. And here the full-frame Canon EOS 5D, a camera that was once positioned as a semi-professional, is now sold second-hand sometimes for ridiculous money, falls into the field of view of many.

What is the Canon EOS 5D (not Mark)?

This unit was produced between 2005 and 2008 and was the first relatively affordable full-frame DSLR. Against the background of cropped cameras of his time it favorably differed in image quality - a resolution of 13 megapixels (versus 6-10 for the then "crops"), about 2 times higher working ISO, and in general, the picture from it was subjectively more lively, voluminous and beautiful. When the first nickel was released, it was purchased by many film photographers. "Pervopyatak" still has a lot of fans - mainly due to the fact that this is a full frame for ridiculous money. Unfortunately, every year the number of copies in good condition is declining and soon it will be a great success to find a Canon EOS 5D in good condition, but this will not be a reason to send the old man to the dustbin of history, he will rather go into the "retro" category.

The main characteristics of the Canon EOS 5D are as follows: a full-frame CMOS sensor with a resolution of 13 megapixels, 9 phase focusing sensors, of which 1 is cross-shaped, located in the center. SLR viewfinder with a coverage of about 96% of the frame, continuous shooting at 3 frames per second and ... that's it! No video recording, no live view, no built-in flash, no scene programs, connection to a computer via USB 1.0.

In RAW, the result is much better, but for its "development" you need to use advanced software like Adobe Photoshop Lightroom (even the ancient version 3 "knows" Canon EOS 5D). The regular RAW-converter Digital Photo Professional will provide a result similar to the in-camera Jpeg.

The Canon EOS 5D also has a lot of settings in "custom functions" that a beginner should not climb into - flash synchronization type, focusing screen type, mirror lock, etc. Unfortunately, the 5D doesn't have autofocus micro-adjustment (it was introduced with the Mark II), so be sure to test it for front/back focus when buying a new lens.

All in all, the Canon EOS 5D is archaic, oaky, slow, simple and reliable. full frame camera, designed for manual shooting in RAW format. To shoot them, you need to know what you are doing and how to do it, and in case of failure, do not blame "some Carlson" :)

What's really good about the Canon EOS 5D?

Good photo sharpness

With a modest 13-megapixel full-frame sensor, the Canon EOS 5D is very tolerant of lens resolution. Even with budget zooms like the Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM, you can get a very decent picture. This, judging by the reviews of the owners of this lens and this carcass. Personally, I use a Canon EF 24-105mm 1:4 L IS USM lens and find it quite sharp over the entire range of focal lengths and at any aperture, while on the 5D Mark III it is noticeably soapy. If you hang a fix on the camera, even an inexpensive one, the sharpness will be simply ringing. Here is an example of a photo taken with an inexpensive Canon EF 40mm 1: 2.8 STM fix (opens on Yandex.Photos):

Working ISO in RAW

What is written below is relevant only for the RAW format. The default ISO range is 100-1600, but can be extended from 50 to 3200 through Custom Functions. Many people are enthusiastic about ISO50, but, to be honest, I didn’t notice much difference in image quality with ISO100. Up to ISO400, the picture looks smooth, noise can only be seen under a microscope, and then they are not annoying and are removed in Lightroom without a visible reduction in detail. At ISO800, there is already a slight "roughness" of the picture, but it does not bother and is perceived as a slight film grain. Lightroom allows you to noticeably reduce noise at ISO800, but most likely it will not be possible to get rid of it completely. ISO1600 can also be called quite working if you shoot in RAW. Here is an example of a photo taken at ISO1600 in RAW under room lighting.

test photo

Noise reduction in Lightroom. Original At ISO3200, noise is already clearly visible and no amount of suppression will get rid of them.

Canon EOS 5D noise at ISO3200 without noise reduction

Noise Reduction in Lightroom As you can see, the sharpness is not the same.

Color reproduction and dynamic range

Whoever says anything, but with normal optics, the color reproduction of the Canon EOS 5D is excellent. I shoot landscapes, portraits, and reportage with them. When working with natural light, I have never seen "plastic colors", "carrot yellow skintones", excessive blues, yellows, reds, greens, etc. With the right exposure and balance white pictures are truthful and beautiful at the same time. The maximum that remains to be done during processing is to correct the levels, contrast, saturation.

It is interesting to work out a slight overexposure. Instead of immediately failing colors into whiteness, as amateur technology does, the matrix seems to “resist” for some time before giving up. Here is an example photo - the foreground is in the shade, the background is lit by the bright sun.

On a good note, additional lighting on the PP would not hurt here, but it simply wasn’t there, all hope was on the dynamic range and, in principle, it was justified. From this we can conclude that the dynamic range of the Canon EOS 5D is not bad. The in-camera curve settings spoil the impression a little - the shadows at the "default" settings turn out to be too dark, but they stretch quite well in Lightroom, especially when shooting at low ISOs.

When shooting landscapes, the Canon EOS 5D also performs at its best. Sharpness is excellent, colors are beautiful.

With difficult contrast lighting, you can use exposure bracketing in +-1EV steps, and then reduce the pictures to "moderate HDR" in Photoshop or Photomatix. In this case, they will be obtained with beautiful and rich colors and smooth halftones, for example, such.


Full frame portrait photography

To maintain proportions and scales with increasing frame size, you need to proportionally increase the focal length - I think this is known to all more or less advanced amateur photographers. An increase in the focal length entails a reduction in the depth of field, that is, if we used to photograph portraits on a 50mm / 1.8 lens on a crop, then in a full frame we will need an 85mm / 1.8 lens for the same shooting (for example, many people prefer other focal lengths for portrait). As the focal length has increased, the depth of field has decreased and background blur has increased. But it also becomes more interesting to shoot with a "fifty kopeck". It is clear that for a complete picture, it is worth bringing photos from some "top" glasses like 50 / 1.2L, but I am not a portrait painter and the only thing that I had at hand at the time of writing this review was the Soviet lens Helios 44M (58mm / 2) and I adapted it to the "nickle" as a medium-sized portrait. It turned out that even with him, portraits in a domestic setting look very interesting, "not soapy."

Just a portrait of my wife offhand without any staging and additional lighting important role in composition than foreground. With cropped devices, all the charms of "bokeh" lenses remain outside the frame. Although, each author has his own opinion on this matter, someone, on the contrary, considers it a virtue.

Benefits of full frame landscape photography

For me, as a landscape painter, the full frame opened up new horizons in creativity, thanks to the full use of wide-angle optics. The Samyang 14mm lens at full frame is just a bomb! :)



However, now a lot of ultra-wide-angle optics with a focal length of 8 to 16 mm have been released for cropped devices, so the problem of the lack of a wide angle on the crop is easily solved by buying the same Samyang, but not by 14, but by 10 millimeters.

Canon EOS 5D Disadvantages

Dust / moisture protection

She just doesn't exist! Even if you don’t change the lens, the camera sucks dust, it’s not clear where, as a result, characteristic specks from dust particles on the matrix appear in the photographs. I used to bother with cleaning the matrix, I even bought a special device (a set of "mops" for the matrix), but now I limit myself to blowing off the main dust from the matrix with a blower as it accumulates. It’s just that now I began to use this camera less often (for everyday shooting I have an Olympus mirrorless camera), and the Canon EOS 5D is a “for the soul” camera.

autofocus

Another weakness the first "penny" (yes, judging by the reviews, the second one too). There is only one cross-shaped sensor, located in the center of the frame. It is simply unrealistic to focus on the extreme sensors with a lack of lighting, so you have to resort to the "grandfather" method - focusing on the central sensor, reframing, shooting.

Slow burst shooting

When shooting single shots, this does not bother in any way, but if we are going to shoot something in motion with wiring or photographing some kind of fast-moving event, 3 frames per second is nothing. Like the Canon EOS 1100D. When I bought a mirrorless camera, I was amazed that this “wick” has a continuous shooting speed of as much as 8 frames per second :)

In-camera JPEG

Do not use it unless you want to be completely disappointed in this camera. There is noise in the photographs, rough halftones that do not stretch well in Photoshop - hello from 2005! :)

auto mode

It would be better not to have it (as well as the Jpeg format). It is clear that it was made "for show", but any modern amateur DSLR shoots in auto mode better than the Canon EOS 5D.

white balance

The white balance presets were programmed as if on another planet. If you shoot in cloudy weather and select the WB "cloudy", everything turns yellow. We shoot in a room with incandescent lamps, set the "incandescent lamp" BB, everything will turn yellow again. We put "automatic BB" and, damn it, it still turns more yellow. Of course, WB can be fine-tuned - set on a gray card, set the color temperature, adjust the hue, and finally, shoot with white balance bracketing ... But will you do this? I just turn on "auto WB" and shoot in RAW and then edit the WB in Lightroom using my own presets - "indoor 5D", "outdoor 5D", etc. Takes additional processing time, but I don't see any other way.

conclusions

5 Reasons Why You Should Buy the Canon EOS 5D

  • This apparatus teaches to take pictures. He will not think for you, providing you with a manual mode. Modes P, TV, AV are half-measures, in which you will have to deal with a rather stupid automatic machine.
  • This apparatus learn how to edit photos. After trying to shoot in Jpeg, you will quickly realize that this is a bad idea and start mastering RAW, and then HDR is not far away.
  • This device does not care what lens you have (the main thing is to have an EF, not an EF-S). Even with a "tin can" it will give a decent picture.
  • This device is a tool for creating masterpieces, the potential for this is great. The number of concomitant "hemorrhoids" does not count :)

5 Reasons Why You Shouldn't Buy a Canon EOS 5D

  • The newest instance at the moment (2017) is already 9 years old. These devices were actively used wedding photographers, chased in the tail and in the mane. Someone now buys a 5D "for slaughter", because it's cheap and full-frame, and then sells it for the same price or more. It is difficult to find a copy without dead pixels on the matrix and a shutter that does not live out its life. The new shutter plus the labor to replace it makes the total cost of the Canon EOS 5D body comparable to a more recent used 5D Mark II.
  • The device is slow. Autofocus tends to live its own life until you "poke it with your nose" at one of the 9 focus points. Slow burst shooting. By by and large, this is a device for leisurely staged shooting, but not for reportage.
  • Dumb automation - BB turns yellow, automatic metering regularly makes mistakes, it is better not to use in-camera JPEG at all.
  • Vacuum cleaner! Dust sucks always and everywhere, even if it just lies in a bag for weeks. How he does it - I have no idea.
  • Morally obsolete. Against the background of modern models of DSLRs and mirrorless cameras, it looks like a dinosaur in terms of functionality. Especially lacking LiveView (remember when shooting with a tripod or macro).

Appendix - Canon EOS 5D Full Size Shots

The pictures were taken at different conditions illumination and converted from RAW to Jpeg by Adobe Photoshop Lightroom ver.3. I tried to select shots with a large dynamic range so that I could appreciate how the camera simultaneously works out bright objects, highlights and midtones, moderate and deep shadows. bright sunny day

Pretty dark room, shooting against the light Canon lens 24-105/4L, ISO1600

Handheld night shot Lens Canon 24-105/4L, ISO3200

Night shooting with a tripod Lens Samyang 14mm/2.8, ISO100

Do I want to change it to something?

Yes and no. Yes - because there is a catastrophic lack of speed during reportage shooting. No - because in all other respects the "first five" suits me completely, I'm used to it and see no reason to lay out almost 100 thousand for a 6D carcass or 200 thousand for a Mark 3. Lately the idea is spinning to buy him a pair of a reporter camera like the Canon EOS 7D Mark II - for those cases when you need a "machine-gun" rate of fire. But that's just thinking out loud...

As a rule, people come to the full frame consciously, after for long years practice and passion for photography. They choose Nikon or Canon and stay true to the system, acquiring optics and additional accessories. And if before the full frame was the territory of the pros, for whom the presence of a camera with a full-frame sensor was critical for work, today such cameras have become more widespread. They simply became cheaper and more compact.

By and large, a full-frame sensor has one advantage over smaller sensors - more high quality Pictures. Naturally, this parameter consists of several components, primarily higher detail and a wide dynamic range, and they directly depend on physical dimensions sensor.

The skeleton of a typical full-frame DSLR

In addition, the larger sensor performs better in low light shooting. And here it is not only a wide dynamic range, but also a low noise level. The top lines of the DxO Mark rating have long been occupied by full-frame cameras, and devices based on Sony matrices predominate among them.

Full frame is necessary for high-quality night shooting and, in particular, for recording night time-lapse videos. Have you seen videos of milky way, With northern lights? All this was filmed with full-frame cameras.

How about nice bokeh? It is also easier to get when shooting on a camera with a full frame sensor. Although in this case, the role of optics should not be underestimated.

Size comparison of all existing matrix formats

For a long time, full-frame cameras were too large and a stereotype was established in the minds of the consumer, they say, a full frame is too cumbersome and heavy. Although it was possible to refute this even before Sony showed the world the Cyber-shot RX1 and full-frame E-mount cameras, digital Lakes were quite compact. They remain one of the most compact full frames today. However, Leica is a very special matter. What, besides Leica, is the current market for full-frame cameras rich in?

Canon EOS 6D

The Canon EOS 6D was one of the first full frames available, along with the Nikon D600. The camera was introduced in the fall of 2012 and there are no rumors about its replacement yet. This is a full-frame DSLR in the classic sense of the word, which, in terms of its capabilities, is slightly lower than the Canon 5D Mark III. Some of the characteristics are artificially low for a clearer positioning. This is especially true of the burst rate, the available shutter speed range and the autofocus system.

It is based on a 20-megapixel full-frame sensor and a dual DIGIC 5+ processor, which has also been used in flagships for more than high level. All the stuffing is enclosed in a weatherproof magnesium alloy case. Pentaprism viewfinder provides 97% frame coverage and 0.71x magnification. The burst rate is a modest 4.5 frames per second, the shutter works out shutter speeds up to 1/4000 s, there is no built-in flash, but even more significant drawback is weak autofocus. Phase autofocus works on 11 points in the central part of the frame, of which only one central is cross-shaped. The camera is capable of processing RAW files, as well as vignetting correction and chromatic aberration compatible optics. Video shooting is available in Full HD resolution at 30, 25 or 24 full frames per second, and to record high-quality sound, you will have to purchase an external stereo microphone.

The key difference between the Canon EOS 6D and its competitors is the presence of built-in GPS and Wi-Fi modules. The first allows you to add information about the coordinates of the shooting point to the images and even record the route traveled. Mobile app EOS Remote supports image copying, remote camera control and remote shooting, as well as uploading content to social media- a standard set of wireless functions. The battery is rated for 1000 shots, and the optional battery grip will help extend battery life.

Canon EOS-1D C and Canon EOS-1D X

Canon EOS-1D X is a top-end DSLR professional level, while its more recent modification Canon EOS-1D C is focused on professional video shooting with 4K resolution and costs almost three times as much. At the heart of the original Canon EOS-1D X is an 18-megapixel CMOS sensor with gapless pixels and a dual DIGIC 5+ processor. The sensitivity limit here is an ultra-high value of ISO 204 800. The magnesium body of the camera is protected from moisture and dust.

The EOS-1DX was the first camera with dual joystick controls for landscape and portrait orientation, and the first DSLR to support Ethernet connections. The camera also stands out with an advanced 61-point phase-detection system and 14fps burst shooting, which means it will be of interest to professional reporters. The main emphasis here is on ergonomics and speed. In addition, the camera is equipped with two CF card slots. Video recording is available in 1920x1080 resolution at 30, 25 and 24 frames per second, and full 60 fps is recorded only in 1280x720 resolution. The Canon EOS-1D X is compatible with accessories such as an external Wi-Fi module, stereo microphone, or remote shutter.

Canon EOS-1D C is a much more specific and more expensive product. People who select a device of this class are unlikely to read our review now. However, a few words should be said about him. Its technical equipment is almost the same as that of the EOS-1D X, except for the sensor optimized for recording 4K video. Video modes are much more diverse here. For example, Full HD video is recorded at a maximum rate of 60 full frames per second. Log Gamma can be used to record video, and uncompressed video can be streamed via the HDMI port to an external receiver. However, the 4K mode here is more of a marketing gimmick, since the frame rate for such video is only 24 frames per second, and the stream is compressed by the Motion JPEG codec.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III

The Canon EOS 5D Mark III has become a long-awaited gift for professional photographers, even more in demand than the above-described EOS-1D X. Recall that at one time the EOS 5D Mark II became the first full-frame camera to support Full HD video recording. The Canon EOS 5D Mark III is housed in a dust and moisture-resistant magnesium alloy body, and the shell design can be called conservatively established.

The camera supports two types of memory cards at once - CF and SD, which can work in pairs. The Five is equipped with a 22-megapixel full-frame sensor and a DIGIC 5+ processor, as well as a 61-point phase detection autofocus system with 41 cross-type sensors with object tracking function. The camera, however, has only a mono mixer, lacks an autofocus assist lamp and built-in flash - this will have to be put up with.

Automation allows you to shoot series in full resolution at a frequency of 6 frames per second, set any shutter speed up to 1/8000 s, shoot with multiple exposures, stitch together HDR images and record time lapse videos. It also provides tools for in-camera RAW processing, shooting full-size photos during video recording and a lot of fine-tuning for professionals. Video recording, however, does not fit into modern requirements and standards. The frame rate is 30 when shooting in Full HD with ALL-I or IPB compression. Disappointing is the lack of full-fledged continuous autofocus and the ability to output an uncompressed video stream via HDMI. A direct competitor in the face of Nikon D800 in this regard looks more maneuverable.

Well, it’s not worth talking about the affordable collection of full-frame optics and accessories once again - the choice is huge. The camera is compatible with a battery grip and an external Wi-Fi transmitter, triggers and external flashes, as well as boxes for underwater shooting. The standard battery is rated for 900 shutter clicks.

Nikon Df

Nikon Df stands out among peers in the first place for its vintage design. Without exaggeration, this is the most beautiful full-frame DSLR to date. Created for adherents of "analogue" sensations, the camera at the same time offers a serious technical stuffing. It is housed in a magnesium alloy body with plastic inserts and is the most compact SLR camera with a full frame sensor, and also weatherproof.

Among the ergonomic features, it is worth highlighting a very small handle, a four-position mode selector, a tiny auxiliary monochrome display, one memory card slot and the absence of a built-in flash.

The main pride of Nikon Df is the 16-megapixel sensor inherited from Nikon D4, as well as the EXPEED 3 processor. The camera is compatible with both full-frame optics and lenses with one and a half crop in DX mode.

Nikon positions the camera as a tool for the aesthete, old-school professional photographer and artificially limits the camera to only the ability to take photos. No plot programs and other chips for beginners are not provided here. But in the presence of multiple exposure, and interval shooting, HDR and Active D-Lighting functions. The phase focusing system works on 39 points, and the burst rate is 5.5 frames per second. The camera does not have built-in Wi-Fi. But this problem is solved by purchasing an external transmitter WU-1a.

Nikon D610

Strictly speaking, the first relatively affordable full-frame DSLR was the Nikon D600. However, very soon, due to a problem with the shutter and sensor, it needed to be replaced in the form of the D610. The Nikon D610 is in the same class as the Canon EOS 6D. The SLR is protected from moisture and dust, enclosed in a magnesium alloy body with a polycarbonate front panel. The camera has a number of advantages over its closest competitor: 39-point phase-detection autofocus, built-in flash, and even two SD card slots.

The full frame is equipped with a 24-megapixel sensor manufactured by Sony and can work in 1.5 crop (DX) mode paired with the appropriate optics. The camera mount has a special mechanism for controlling the aperture on old manual Nikon lenses. A new shutter has been specially developed for the Nikon D610, eliminating the annoying problem of oil splatter. The shutter works from 1/4000s to 30s, and the burst rate is 6 frames per second with active autofocus. The video modes here are the same as those of the closest competitor. The maximum resolution of the videos is 1920x1080, and the frame rate is selected from a range of 30p, 25p or 24p. The lack of built-in Wi-Fi and sync contact, as well as a mono microphone, can be considered disadvantages of this model. At the same time, Nikon D610 can be "pumped" with a battery grip, an external stereo microphone, Wi-Fi and GPS modules, and, of course, an external flash.

Nikon D800 and Nikon D800E

Nikon D800 and its more expensive modification with a sensor without an AA filter has become a kind of counterbalance to the competitor Canon EOS 5D Mark III, but the focus here is shifted to landscape-studio shooting. The cameras received full-frame sensors with an impressive resolution of 36 megapixels, and the main focus is on image detail and advanced video shooting. Like most Nikon DSLRs, the camera can also shoot in 1.5 crop mode, which is indispensable when using DX optics. In this case, the resolution drops to 15 megapixels. The frequency of continuous shooting at such a high resolution of the matrix was 4 frames per second, and video recording is possible at a frequency of 30, 25 and 24 frames per second in Full HD.

The Multi-CAM 3500FX focusing system is directly copied from the flagship Nikon D4 and has 51 phase detection autofocus points. Unlike the EOS 5D Mark III, Nikon offers an AF assist lamp and HDMI uncompressed video output. The shutter works out shutter speeds up to 1/8000 s, and flash synchronization is possible at shutter speeds up to 1/250 s. The minimum shutter life is 200,000 clicks. It is also worth noting the support of the USB 3.0 standard, built-in flash, headphone jack and the presence of two slots for memory cards - CF and SD. Both cameras are equipped with 1900 mAh batteries, which will be enough for about 750 shots, but there is also the possibility of docking a battery grip.

Nikon D4 and Nikon D4s

In early 2012, the Nikon D4 replaced the Nikon D3 as the flagship, although Japanese manufacturers usually avoid the "four" in the names. The professional Nikon D4 has a 16.2-megapixel full frame CMOS sensor, offering a sweet spot between high resolution pictures and their quality increased values ISO. Subsequently, the same successful sensor was used to create the Nikon Df.

The "brain" of the camera was the EXPEED 3 processor, later also used in the development of Nikon 1 mirrorless models. A dedicated 51-point sensor is dedicated to focusing, and the burst rate is 10 frames per second with active autofocus. Nikon D4 became the second camera after the Canon EOS 1D X, which acquired an Ethernet controller and a corresponding connector. It is also the first and so far the only camera to support the new XQD memory card format. At the same time, the camera is equipped with two slots at once - for XQD and CF cards.

Crop or not crop.

practical advice: Should I buy a full-frame SLR.

Immediately “on the shore” I want to warn that my practical advice is based purely on personal experience, i.e. IMHO. Maybe it will be useful for someone.

A few months ago I myself was a supporter of crop, confidently believed that the Nikon D5100 camera (with a set of lenses) fully covers my photography needs. A couple of times I entered into a debate with a colleague about the absence of the need to switch to full-frame format. Another interesting fact, on the Internet, I came across a small article devoted to just this topic. It briefly listed the criteria for choosing a full-frame camera, and if you answered “no” at least a couple of times in front of them, then there was no point in switching to more professional photographic equipment. Of course, this reinforced my confidence. BUT now I use a full-frame camera (Nikon D610), i.e. at some point, I cardinally changed my mind and made a choice in favor of "NOT KROP".

For convenience, I have already prepared my list of 15 criteria or questions, taking into account my personal experience whether or not to switch from crop to full frame.

So. If you answered “NO” to at least two questions, then I think it’s worth delaying the transition to full frame or rethink everything (maybe talk to someone who already has the necessary experience).

Questions:

That's all. The answer is simple. At some point, I myself, without expecting it, was able to answer for myself all the above questions with the answer "YES"

You decide!

I’ll add some fuel to the fire (on the topic of what fits in the frame) ... SLR camera Nikon D610 allows you to take a crop and non-crop picture (full frame) with a single button on the camera body.

That's what happens with one focal length. The crop area is highlighted in the frame ... to be honest, at first I myself was amazed at the result.

Hello again, dear reader! I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. Do you know what a full-frame sensor is in SLR cameras? How does it differ from truncated matrices? Why are they more expensive? What if you don't have a full frame sensor?

Before answering these and other questions that interest you, let me congratulate you on the first day of summer. I don’t know how things are with the weather, but in Dushanbe it was +36C today. In other words, summer has begun in full. How are you doing, what can you brag about? I also congratulate you on Children's Day, take care, love, appreciate both your own and other people's children. Children, this is a ray of light in our hearts!

In one of the previous articles, the topic of the camera was touched upon. Surely after reading it, there was some ambiguity associated with full-frame cameras. Today I will tell you about their advantages and disadvantages. After reading the article, you will find out what a full-frame camera is for, how the pictures from full-frame and crop cameras will differ, what are the advantages and disadvantages of such solutions.

Full frame matrix.

So, in order to understand what a full-frame camera is, you need to understand the concept of “full frame”. The frame size is considered to be the dimensions of the photosensitive element located in the camera body. Physically, they are completely different. “Full” is considered to be standard 35 mm elements, since this size has been standard for many years.

The width and height parameters of such matrices are 36 and 24 mm, respectively. This is where the concept of a crop matrix comes from, which was discussed in one of the previous articles. The reason for the creation of "cropped" matrices was and still is the high cost of producing full-fledged sensors for digital cameras. Of course, now the technical process has become less expensive, however, the production of elements of standard sizes is still not the cheapest pleasure.

Of course, there were compact cameras before. They tried to make them as inexpensive as possible for both purchase and maintenance. This necessitated the creation of "crop films", if I may say so, but they were very rare: even now it is difficult to find a well-preserved camera with reduced film size.

Closer to the end of the training, our teacher showed a very interesting camera, which was used by the intelligence services of the USSR in the middle to the end of the last century. They showed us the Vega camera, which was produced in Kyiv in the 60s. Surprisingly, it was fully functional, even the film was in place. The size of his film frame was 14 × 10 millimeters, and only 20 shots were placed in the drum.

Of course, we ourselves could not work with him, since we were forbidden to take him with us to photo practice, but we nevertheless considered several frames captured by Vega. The quality for this kind of cameras in our exhibit was quite good, especially considering the diminutiveness of its lens. However, this did not prevent the scouts from doing their job with high quality.

Features of a full size photosensitive element

It is no secret that the image received by the crop matrix will be smaller than that obtained on the full-fledged one. This, as you can see, was discussed in a previous article. For the most part, the story was about truncated matrices, but now it's time to talk about full-sized sensors. It has both advantages and disadvantages. It seems to me that it is worth starting from the first.

So, why are they so valued by professionals?

Advantages of full-size cameras

Firstly, detail. Due to the larger size of the matrix, the resulting raster image boasts better picture clarity. Even the smallest details in full frame are rendered better than in crop, if we compare the results shot with one lens.

Secondly, larger viewfinder. No matter what anyone says, it is not advisable to cover a small photosensitive element with a large mirror. Of course, the size is also affected by the prism, but the latter in such cameras, as a rule, is larger than in mass-produced ones. For mirrorless devices, this is an even more significant plus, due to the higher resolution of the resulting image.

Third, the size of the pixel itself. If the manufacturer decides not to increase the number of photosensitive units, but to make them a little larger, then this will make the sensor more sensitive to light rays. No matter how some photographers put it, full frame cameras tends to result in lighter images.

Fourth, good depth of field. Due to the better ISO sensitivity provided by the large pixel size, it will be much easier to achieve a good depth of field on such a device.

“What is IPIG?” you ask. This stands for Depth of Field used space. Why is this needed? It's simple: for stronger or weaker blurring of the background. The main thing you need to know here is that full-frame matrices allow you to “conjure” with this parameter most effectively.

Fifth, no zoom effect. It was also mentioned in the article about the crop factor. Perhaps this is one of the main differences from reduced matrices, which allows you to save large quantity images in one frame. It can play like positive role in the frame, and negative. For example, at a great distance from the object being photographed, this can play a negative role, and when working in the “portrait” genre, everything will be exactly the opposite.

At sixth, even when large values setting ISO 1600-3200, the appearance of digital noise is minimal.

Comparison of full-frame and cropped cameras. A case from one's life

I want to say right away that the comparison turned out to be very subjective, since the cameras were different levels, they used different optics, they were controlled by different people. So, after showing the spy device, the teacher began to voice the task for the next work for us: it was necessary to create a full-fledged photo essay.

In part, we were lucky: in the center of additional training, a driving school neighbored us, and that day, a driving competition among novice drivers was held on the territory of the local autodrome. I think it's not worth going into the essence of the details, that's not what you came here for.

So, the competition began, and my classmates and I went to the circuit to take the treasured shots. I didn’t have the best Nikon D3100 in my hands, so I decided to immediately agree with the guys working with the Canon 5D Mark II to shoot in turn. Both devices, by the way, were used with whale lenses. We agreed that after some time we would exchange cameras for a better understanding of the devices themselves and to get the most a large number pictures.

Upon arrival at the studio, everyone immediately began to transfer frames to laptops for processing. Inserting a memory card, I did the same, after which I began to consider the result. Looking through the photo for the second time, I caught myself thinking that at long distances (about 50-100 meters) Canon took pictures of more or less acceptable quality, but the D3100 showed an impressive result, as for a budget amateur SLR camera.

Of course, close-up pictures were taken: it was necessary to take pictures of the winners, the cars that brought them to such a result, and the teachers-mentors. The result on Canon was impressive. Nikon also performed well, but somewhere he lacked sharpness, in other places the picture seemed a little noisy, and you should not forget about the zoom effect.

After viewing the photos, I came to the following conclusions: Canon is capable of everything, you just need to choose the right set of lenses, but with Nikon everything is not so simple. Of course get high-quality pictures you can, but Nikon's getting perfect shots on short distance given quite difficult, due to the crop factor. Nevertheless, he more than justified his cost, however, like Canon.

Disadvantages of full size cameras

First and, perhaps most significantly, the difficulty of photographing at long distances. The larger light range, good image clarity and ease of taking pictures are offset by weaknesses when shooting at long focal lengths. Of course, this is solved by a specialized lens, which will significantly hit your pocket.

Second but no less significant is the cost. In addition to expensive "glasses" (as the lens is called in slang), you will have to pay a round sum for the carcass itself. Of course, professionals will not stop even at a six-figure price tag, since such an acquisition will pay off quickly enough.

Third minus weight. A large matrix, a large mirror, a large viewfinder ... More and more requires a capacious body to accommodate. Among other things, lenses for large carcasses have also never been famous for their lightness. Configurations with expensive telephoto lenses, the lenses of which are made of glass with a special coating, will be especially difficult.

Fourth the disadvantage is the narrow specialization of full-frame matrices. While a crop with a coefficient of 1.5-1.6 can be called standard and universal. Full-frame sensors are focused mainly on shooting up close. Of course, you can use a full-frame camera for long-range shooting, but it will be much more difficult and expensive to do this. In addition, it will not be easy for a beginner to implement a device with a standard-sized matrix, even close up.

So, the moment has come to understand whether we need a full-frame camera or not? If you are one of the top photographers in the city and photography is your main income, then it is definitely worth it. If you are a hobbyist thinking about upgrading your crop camera, then the acquisition will be a very dubious action. Whatever is written here, you should correctly evaluate all the pros and cons, and then decide which type of matrix to choose.

If you want to get to know your camera in more detail, understand what it is capable of, understand the basic properties of building a composition, understand how to make a beautiful blurred background, learn to control the depth of field and much, much more. Then to help you, a really super video course " Digital SLR for beginners 2.0". Believe me, you will draw a lot from it useful information, and your pictures will turn into masterpieces.

I hope you enjoyed this article and now you know what the phrase "full-frame camera" means. If the information turned out to be useful, then be sure to subscribe to my blog, there are a lot of interesting things ahead of you. You can tell your photographer friends about the blog, let them also join quality photography. All the best, dear reader, see you soon!

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.