For almost two years, Sasha has been preparing for this position - she went to fashion shows, got acquainted with how collections are purchased in BOSCO DI CILIEGI stores. And now she herself is the buyer and manager of the youth multi-brand BOSCO Pi. Sasha decides which brands will be presented in the new season, chooses the most interesting models from the collections. Not only women's, but also men's brands! Everything that happens in the store - from the choice of strategy, to merchandising and the work schedule of salespeople - is under her control.

Alexandra Varchuk found time in her busy schedule to chat with the readers of the site in our group and answer all questions in the online conference mode.

— Very complex, extensive and often almost opposite definitions of the profession of a buyer are given on the Internet and various articles. Could you briefly describe what this profession is? Did you purposefully settle for it or is it a matter of chance?
- In a nutshell, a buyer is a person who buys collections for the store he works for. What we see in stores is far from the entire collection that designers produce. This is the choice that the buyer makes when he comes to the showroom. This choice was realized and supported by a lot of analytical work carried out throughout the season: what was sold in the store, what was not, what are the needs of the client, how quickly the collection was sold, and how the consumer perceived it, what fabrics were successful or not very good, and a host of others. aspects. Therefore, the collection selection process is only a small, perhaps the most enjoyable part of the workflow, behind which are long months of numbers.

When I started working for the company, I could only dream of the position I hold now. But the circumstances were such that they chose me for the youth project. For my management, this step was a certain risk, because I had never worked in trading. In order to take office, I trained for more than a year.

This job is my dream! How to achieve this goal? How to become a successful buyer? I'm 18 and I'm interested in fashion, I'm studying to be an art critic, I constantly try to develop my taste and follow the trends. Where to begin? Who to study?
- In my opinion, successful components given profession: flair, good taste, healthy pragmatism, the ability to work with numbers, analyze, communicate and defend one's point of view. To my great regret, we do not yet have a professional education in the field of buying, this is not taught anywhere, because. The profession is relatively recent. While doing an internship, I started as a salesperson, because the whole process must be known from the inside, from the basics. You must know who your client is, be able to communicate with him and understand what he needs in order to bring it. I had the best teacher and leader imaginable. She, a high-class professional, took it upon herself to teach me everything, simply because she saw sprouts in me that could be developed. She supports and helps me so far, and is for me best example not only in the professional field, but also in life.

- Where do you need to study for this and where to go to get a job as a buyer?
- Unfortunately, we do not yet have a professional education in the field of baing. This field of activity has emerged relatively recently and the specialists actively working in it now come from different fields - someone received a financial education, someone artistic. The best way to learn is while working. Every company has its own quirks. As for where you can get a job, I would advise you to choose large companies with a good reputation, engaged in retailing.

- What and what colors in clothes will be fashionable in 2013?
- If speak about winter 2013, then the most popular palette is the muted colors of precious stones: emerald, ruby, sapphire. After a riot of colors in the summer of 2012, black returned again and took the main positions, which had been in disgrace for several seasons. Keeps up with black and blue color in various interpretations. By the way, most of the models from the winter collection of Stella McCartney are built on the combination of blue and black. Main trends: baroque, masculine style and leather.

Summer collections 2013 already purchased and the fashion weeks have passed, so we can safely say that the main color of the summer of 2013 will be yellow, which flashed on the catwalk more often than others. An equally active trend will be black and white graphics, on which the entire Louis Vuitton summer collection is built. The theme of sport chic and cropped tops will move from last summer season. Those who love romance will be happy with the number of ruffles and floral prints that appeared in the summer collections.

- My height is 158 cm, what will suit me to visually look taller?
- I'll start with the fact that, in my opinion, you are lucky, because your petiteness has forever made you feminine and beautiful. I will not list any basic rules here, such as “do not wear horizontal stripes or skirts below the knee”, all this has been written a million times before me and is actually not entirely relevant. My advice: open your legs, wear heels and you will always look great.

- Soon there will be sales in stores: what things to buy? I want to make purchases that you carry for more than one year. And what clothes to ignore? After all, it happens like this: you buy something, but you never wear it.
- In my opinion, there is such a basic set of things that can be worn for more than one season and on which you should not save. That's exactly what you can look for at sales, because our Moscow prices are often worthless. So, these are: high-quality jeans (it is better to buy those brands that specialize in denim), a cashmere sweater, a white shirt, shoes, a bag, a coat. These are the things that simply must be of high quality. Everything else is up to your taste. The main thing: remember that the thing you buy must be worn with something, quickly come up with several sets and imagine that you will wear them over the next few days. If you scored at least 3, feel free to buy. Practice shows that if you buy a thing in the hope of later picking up something for it, it will lie in your closet, waiting in the wings for more than one day. Although there are exceptions.

- They say that style begins with small things. Tell me, what "little things" will be relevant this winter?
- I would focus on a few details:
1. Removable collar. Now you can find a great many of them. Embroidered with pearls or stones will give a completely new look to an ordinary dress, plastic can be worn with a denim or plaid shirt.
2. Gloves. And forget about the rule bag-belt-gloves-shoes of the same color. Check out Tommy Ton's streetstyle photos of Fashion Week guests. He knows how to emphasize the beauty of details.
3. Shoes and bags. This season, many designers have decorated shoes and bags with fur. Pay attention to models of colors that are relevant this season: deep blue, cherry, emerald, as well as small bags stylized as military tablets.
4. As for shoes, you can forget about heels for a while. It is better to give preference to men's style boots, as in the Marc Jacobs or Burberry Prorsum collection.
5. Large decorations are required. Chandelier earrings, voluminous multi-row necklaces with large stones, large rings and bracelets.

— Fashion and style are different things, but they are closely intertwined. Where is golden mean in order to always look relevant?
- Coco Chanel answered this question best of all: “First of all, it is style. Fashion goes out of fashion. Style - never! From myself I can add - never wear something that does not suit you, even if it is very fashionable. You look best in clothes that you feel comfortable in.

What shoes are in fashion this winter?
- In my opinion, preference should be given to men's style boots. Pay attention to loafers. In such models, there may be a heel, but, as a rule, it is stable and low. These shoes will serve as a great addition to the men's style that is relevant this season. If you prefer heels, look for richly decorated baroque shoes, as in the Alexandr McQueen and Dolce&Gabbana collections. But the trend in general is that this winter the heel becomes more stable and wider.

What shoes will be in fashion next spring?
“I can say with confidence that the pointed toe is making a comeback. This is an almost obligatory detail of shoes, ankle boots and sandals with heels. Ballet flats and sandals still have a rounded toe. The hottest color is metallic. A stable heel passes from winter, which in summer is very often made of transparent plastic. One of the main trends will remain "men's" shoes, but, of course, in a lightweight version: moccasins, loafers with thin leather soles in bright colors. Architectural shoes with many details will be more relevant than ever. I advise you to pay attention to shoes on the platform: it is desirable that the platform be decorated with applications or prints.

Photo from personal archive Alexandra Varchuk.

- Does it exist in this moment Is there an established fashion industry in Russia?

— There was no industry as such either in the 80s, or in the 90s, or in the 2000s.

I returned to Russia in 1989. In the early nineties, fashion did not exist, although we had already begun to do something. From 1998 to 2008 there was a qualitative leap when we entered the world level, when it seemed that fashion had risen, and everything was moving in the right direction ... I think another ten years is enough time to form a system. Fashion needs investors, it needs to be invested in. The new generation is just now entering another professional level. Of course, as long as there is no system, there is no chain: talented fashion designers can show sketches, but that's all. It is important to understand that only a few have production, and neither you nor I know exactly where. The same Denis Simachev is sold in Stoleshnikov Lane, but his clothes are sewn in Italy, as far as I know.

Surely you will not want to see “BOLSHEVICHKA” in large letters on the label, even if you really like some thing there

Alla Verber vice president of Mercury, fashion director of TSUM

— How profitable is it in principle to invest in fashion as a long-term business?

- Well, of course it's beneficial. We (Mercury - ed.) have invested! When we came to the market, there was no fashion, people had nowhere to buy sugar and salt, let alone dress in expensive fashion brands. Initially, the main idea was to create elite fashion in Russia. So we went into the luxury business where there is a limited number of brands for certain people who want only the best in the world. We created and developed this market from scratch.

When I first came into this business, what was fashion? One fashion designer Zaitsev, one Fashion House on Kuznetsky ... There were two department stores - TsUM and GUM, where it was impossible to buy something behind the counter, only from under the counter and through acquaintances. Terrible grandmas, which are terrible to turn to. When we started the business in the nineties, there were only freestanding boutiques. Versace was the first boutique to open, the rest appeared with a creak: people did not trust, they did not know where it was made. There was no pricing policy. Many fakes were divorced: people did not understand at all and could not distinguish the real Gucci from the fake one. These fakes were sold in the markets for a lot of money, buyers were assured “what are you! It's made in the same factory as Chanel!"

We took the Central Department Store with an old department store, c good name and pedigree. But it was a typical Soviet store with an absolutely Soviet approach. Within five years, we created the first luxury department store in the country, which is now known all over the world. When they say Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, they also say TSUM.

Diesel shirt, Diesel pullover, Tru Trussardi trousers, Pal Zileri Lab boots

- The domestic consumer is conquered by foreign brands. Are we ready to trust domestic brands now?

— The main problem is that our brands are still getting more expensive than Western ones. People are ready to buy everything that is beautiful, good quality and at a normal price. If this is done in Russia, then the prices should be correspondingly lower. It is clear that if the label says made in Italy, then the price increases: work in Italy, delivery, customs, and so on. But when the same prices are on the Made in Russia label... this raises at least the question “Why?”. Because the volumes are small. Because it is difficult to find a production base. Because almost everyone buys Western materials, since there are no Russian factories. Production in Russia is much more expensive than in other countries. Here's the answer to why it's so expensive.

And this does not meet the expectations of the buyer, who sees some exorbitant price on the Russian thing. Everything must be in accordance: price, quality and style. Today we do not have enterprises and factories, of which there were thousands throughout Russia before the revolution. Mostekstilprom and many others made normal clothes for Russians who could buy them in a normal department store for a normal price. Today, private stores try not to buy things Russian production, because it is not clear to whom one can sell this and at such a price. Therefore, there is no old, time-tested, established production with a name. Is that "Bolshevich". But surely you will not want to see “BOLSHEVICHKA” in big letters on the label, even if you really like some thing there. At the same price, you can find things at Zara, at H&M... There is no place where our consumer can come for domestic clothing. Many beautiful things from Russian designers are more expensive than I would buy myself Lanvin or Gucci. I have to pay incredible money for what is sewn in our own country. It's easier to go and buy a beautiful Dolce & Gabbana dress for the same money.

But now Moscow regularly hosts two full-fledged Russian Fashion Weeks - this is already a sign. Designers around the world started asking me if they should come to Moscow. Igor Chapurin, Alena Akhmadullina, Vika Gazinskaya, Alexander Terekhov became popular... Suddenly, there appeared names that are spoken about in the West, I hear about them with the prefix "Russian fashion", and I wonder... I, as the fashion director of a huge department store, thought that in spite of everything we need to develop Russian brands, we need to support our fashion designers, and why not in such a beautiful store as ours?

If only the state would pay attention to the deplorable state of the clothing industry!

- What and where do you need to "tighten the screws" in order for this production machine to spin? To what extent does this depend on the designers themselves?

- If only the state would pay attention to the deplorable state of the clothing industry! I remember the huge Soviet factory Mostekstilprom, which was idle, it employed 2,000 people, and in the 1990s it was slowly falling apart. It takes ten years to change the ruling generation.

In Russia, there has never been such a thing as a stylist. It was believed that if you want to do fashion, you should go either to hairdressers, or to artists, or to a trade institute, after which you just sell things. Even the word "fashion designer" did not exist. IN Soviet times it was generally customary to sew by oneself or - if wealth allowed, then at the dressmaker, who was still not so easy to get. All around were shops "Everything for sewing", where they sold threads, needles, fabrics. You won't find stores like this anymore.

— To what extent did the Russian perception of fashion differ and still differ from the Western one?

— There is a difference, and by the way, it is not always in favor of the West. There, fashion has existed for several generations, and God forbid, we have one. There has never been a shortage. As a result, now people here look more fashionable and neat than, for example, in America, where there is negligence, and the buyers themselves have not enjoyed shopping for a long time and are increasingly ordering via the Internet. For us it is very important how the thing will sit. In America, only people with high level prosperity. The rest is T-shirts, sneakers, sneakers, sweatpants ... In the summer in Los Angeles, almost everyone is shod in slippers.

— How did you become a buyer?

- I started at the age of 18 by dressing shop mannequins in Rome. Then in Canada I received professional education in fashion college, where we were taught everything related to fashion: in addition to sales, management and advertising, we were taught to sew, to understand materials. But I always wanted to be a buyer, and this requires economic skills, you need to be able to work with budgets ... As a result, I have been professionally engaged in fashion for more than 30 years.

— What else does a real buyer need to know?

- Girls sometimes come to me and say: "I want to be a buyer." It seems to them that for this profession it is enough that you like beautiful things, you can come to the showroom, select what you like ... Yes, you can do this if you have your own small boutique. But even then, you have to calculate the result, know the size grid, and be able to calculate very well: how to mark up, when to start a sale, what percentage you need to earn before it starts, etc. You can't list everything. Otherwise, you will simply go bankrupt. And this is just the tip of the iceberg. Because then the control of payments and deliveries begins, hanging on the floor ... A lot of people spent money and went bankrupt, because they were not ready for so many little things. Most get tired already in the second season and only think about how to get rid of such a tedious business. Bayer is a hard day-to-day job that requires regular daily supervision.

So far, as far as I know, there is no specialized education for buyers in Russia

— What makes up the profession of a buyer?

- First and foremost - the buyer must have taste. People are sometimes completely lost at the sight of so many different things and do not know what to choose. If you came to buy, for example, men's suits, then it's easier, because there are statistics. The second is numbers, mathematics. You must be good at counting so that you always stay within your budget and always keep your percentage in mind. Next to any, the most creative and outstanding designer, there is always a product manager who says: “You, of course, well done for inventing all this, but we still need to make more money!”. The buyer is the same: in addition to what you like, you also need to properly allocate the budget. Then the product comes to the floor, it needs to be hung up and sold, which means you need to understand how successful merchandising works.

It often happens that a person does one thing well, for example, hangs things, but he fails to make purchases. I do not know a single person in our country who would have graduated from a specialized university or college and from the very beginning understood both economics and fashion. At the same textile university. Kosygin, there are two separate faculties - economics and art, but why not finish them one after another? So far, as far as I know, there is no specialized education for buyers in Russia.

Girls come to me with legal, pedagogical, and even philosophical education. And I take them to the so-called “Alla Verber School”: first I take a buyer as an assistant and look at their potential, because immediately or almost immediately it becomes clear what a person is capable of. Let's say a girl with great potential comes to me and says: "I want to become a buyer." Great, I tell her, in March we have a purchase, which means that until March you get up on the floor and gradually understand how, what and where works in this store.

Any person before becoming a buyer must work with the goods directly for at least three months, stand and sell. And I really appreciate those people who immediately agree to this. The chain begins: the seller - the merchandiser - the buyer's assistant, and then it's not far to the buyer. He must know how they work. warehouses, what percentage of the collection you have to sell before the sale (this is 70% - approx. Alla Verber), how a lot of small systems work, the interaction of which makes up the life of the store. Because if you do not have a specialized education, you will have to get it in practice, and only then take up a position.

My people grow into buyers from merchandisers, from assistants, from financiers, from office workers…

" in Istituto Marangoni. In the classroom, students get acquainted with the features of the procurement process, learn to work with different store formats, determine the company's policy, and explore the audience by geographical and demographic principle. At the apparel buyer courses, students will master the tools of communication and branding, learn how to develop a strategic profitability model and build pricing. The participants of the program will consolidate the acquired knowledge in practice - students will visit outlets and showrooms to learn how to interact with fashion industry professionals.

Cities: Milan and Florence
Teaching languages: English, Italian, Portuguese
Course duration: 3 weeks

  • Master's course "Fashion Buying" in Istituto Marangoni. This program is designed for bachelors in marketing, economics, fashion design and professionals with experience in the field of procurement. During the year, students will learn how to analyze the fashion industry, develop purchasing strategies, control finance and manage supply chains. The curriculum includes strategic marketing and visual merchandising. The course lasts 1 academic year, and the program in Paris and London additionally includes an internship (12 weeks) and the preparation of a dissertation (12 weeks).

Cities: Milan, Paris, London
Teaching languages: English, Italian
Course duration: in Milan - 1 academic year, in Paris and London - 1 year and 4 months

  • Postgraduate program "Fashion Buying & Merchandising" in Istituto Marangoni. The first part of the course is devoted to the development of the buyer's personal qualities. Students will also learn about the influence of factors such as design, purchasing, technical subtleties and merchandising on the volume of profit. The second part of the course is practical work- students independently collect and analyze data to develop a procurement plan and forecast profits. This program helps to master managerial skills and provides extensive knowledge in the field of retail, import/export, pricing strategies.

City: Florence
Teaching language: English
Course duration: 1 semester (20 weeks)

    Summer course "Fashion Buying" in. Syllabus includes visiting exhibitions, studying modern fashion, retail concepts, buying and selling techniques. Students will understand the specifics of the knitwear and leather goods business. During the classes, they will learn how to conduct retail marketing activities, analyze the behavioral factors of customers and increase the profit of the store. The program includes excursions to Ferragamo and Gucci museums, an international lecture with a guest expert from the fashion industry.

City: Florence
Teaching language: English
Duration: 1 month

  • Master's course "Fashion Buying & Product Management" in . The program consists of 3 modules (fashion system, research methodology and management tools) in which students learn about tailoring techniques, fabric manipulation, graphic design, buying methods and consumer behavior. During their studies, students visit production sites and showrooms. By the end of the course, each student will have created a complete architectural design for the collection. Training program includes master classes and seminars, which will explain all the stages life cycle product, from research and design to production and sales.

City: Florence
Teaching language: English
Duration: 1 academic year

Today bayer profession is one of the most sought after. Representatives of this profession are engaged in replenishing the collections of boutiques and stores. fashion clothes. Buyers are considered respected professionals in the fashion industry.

Fashion is a business. Therefore, it is not enough to do and show a beautiful thing on the podium. She still needs to be sold.. This is exactly what buyers do, guided by the needs of customers in the selection of collections for sale. Representatives of this profession must understand whether this or that model of clothing will be sold, because an unsold collection will lead to store losses.

The work of a buyer is very hard and involves risk buy what you don't need. The professionalism of representatives of this profession largely depends on the intuition and knowledge of the tastes of potential buyers.

Bayer is not only a merchandiser who selects a range of goods for a store, it is also a stylist who must evaluate clothes as a work of art. Representatives of this profession can be engaged in the selection of clothes not only for the elite, but also for a wider range of buyers.

In the state of large stores there may be not one, but several buyers. For example, the first can be engaged in the purchase of men's clothing, the second - women's, the third - sports, and the fourth - exclusive.

When entering the store new clothes or shoes, the buyer is obliged to advise the sellers: explain how to put things together and how to competently offer a product to a client.

The profession of a buyer has a number of positive aspects, among which it is worth noting the opportunity to travel and communicate with famous people creative people : fashion designers, artists and designers.

The disadvantages include risk and irregular working hours. In addition, buyers have practically no time to rest: as soon as one season ends, the next one immediately begins.

In order to become a buyer, you need some experience in boutiques or large clothing stores. In addition, you need to follow everything that happens in the fashion industry, attend shows, take part in showrooms, work with designers. The profession of a buyer requires a person to have good taste. Also, it will not be superfluous to own foreign languages as this activity involves frequent travel.

Learn to be a buyer in modern higher education educational institutions it is forbidden. An education that develops a sense of composition, proportion, harmony and gives an idea of ​​​​design, for example, artistic, is perfect. Besides, important role play knowledge in the field of economics and marketing. The personal qualities that are necessary for representatives of this profession include initiative, responsibility, sociability, stress resistance, creativity and punctuality.

As for wages, then, as a rule, buyers are owners of boutiques and shops Therefore, the earnings of representatives of this profession directly depend on the ability to sell clothes. If the buyer manages to successfully bring and sell this or that collection, he will be able to get a fairly large profit.

How could you make sure the profession of a buyer is very difficult and requires a person to have certain skills. Many large companies are looking for experienced professionals who are well versed in clothing, footwear, as well as in the preferences of customers.

Greetings dear friends!

Cycle 1.

Duties:

Participation in orders;

Formation of collections;

Assortment planning within the regulated budget;

Analysis of current sales of collections;

Carrying out seasonal orders;

Now let's look at it in order. As for age, according to the current legislation of our country (Labor Code of the Russian Federation), the employer company does not have the right to indicate the age for its candidates in the description of vacancies. In my opinion, this concept has more disadvantages than advantages. Age for an employee is proportional to his professional experience. With the exception of young talents and rare talents in this field. BUT practical experience for a bayer it is simply necessary. Learning to anticipate demand and meet it with a proposal is not easy in professions that especially require the candidate to have an artistic taste. Therefore, either you have such experience, or you automatically become not a buyer, but an assistant buyer, or a junior buyer. Whoever likes it. Hence the conclusion - any buyer needs practice. Artistic taste can be developed different ways. Start with the elementary - look at how people in your city are dressed. Start dressing your friends and family, try working as a stylist or photographer. On the this topic a sufficient number of books have been written and entertainment programs have been filmed on TV. Dare! But, do not overdo it, do not chase the idea of ​​dressing everyone with your collection, combine your own style and consumer demand. Let your vision align with the buyer's. The balance here is simply necessary, even if you are an innovator at your core. Going further: the company considers acceptable 2 summer experience in this area. Let's see if this is the case. If a buyer is your calling, then this experience is suitable. But here, for the employer, what matters is HOW this experience was. Imagine that you are the owner or mistress of a boutique, will you entrust the assortment of your store into the hands of another person? Difficult, isn't it? Therefore, first of all, you must be sure that you will be able to sell your collection. If you doubt your own abilities, then believe me, the employer will see these doubts first. And you won't see a job. It is important here not to confuse “I know that I will sell because I have already done it” and “I know that I will sell because I really want to try” or “I know that I will sell, but I didn’t succeed last time, maybe it will work now." Simply put, when applying for a job as a buyer, you REALLY need a positive previous experience in this field. Or, start your career in less responsible positions, such as an assistant or assistant to a senior buyer. There is no need to be ashamed of a lower position or salary, it is much worse if you make mistakes to the detriment of the company's financial resources.

The gender of the employee is also omitted in the job description, all because of the new legislation. Well, this item can really be skipped. The fact is that the buyer is a versatile profession, and from my own experience I will say that I am familiar with people, both female and male, who have proven themselves to be real professionals. The fact that there are clothes, shoes and accessories for women, men and children gives us options to choose the direction that you like the most. There are no criteria here: a man can be an ideal buyer for a women's collection or shoes, and a woman for men's or children's.

At the end of the first article about the bayer profession, I will add on my own behalf that all the facts listed above really take place. The fact that the profession is not easy enough, I think you have already seen. Therefore, if you think that a buyer is your calling, go for it and just go ahead! But be prepared for the fact that you will have to constantly look for a balance, be able to prove your case, not be afraid to take risks, constantly control the situation and keep your finger on the pulse. Moreover, the feeling when you meet people wearing your collection on the street can only be compared with the feeling of a designer at a show of his brand! Pride and satisfaction from a job well done.

The decision is yours, dear friends. Stay with me in order to learn more about the specifics of this profession and avoid mistakes in your work! Follow the news.